Alexandria (in Greek, Ἀλεξάνδρεια; in
Coptic, Ⲣⲁⲕⲟⲧⲉ Rakotə,
in Arabic, الإسكندريه Al-Iskandariya, in Egyptian Arabic, اسكندريه
Eskendereyya), with a population of 3.5 to 5 million, is the second-largest city in Egypt,
and its largest seaport.
Alexandria extends about 20 miles (32 km) along the coast of the Mediterranean sea
in north-central Egypt. It is home to the Bibliotheca Alexandrina, the New
Library of Alexandria, and is an important industrial centre because of its
natural gas and oil pipelines from
Suez.
In ancient times, Alexandria was one of the most famous cities in the world. It was founded around 331 BC by Alexander the Great, and remained Egypt's capital for
nearly a thousand years, until the Arabs conquered Egypt in 641 AD and set up a capital at Fustat
(later absorbed into Cairo). Alexandria was known for the Lighthouse of Alexandria (one of the Seven
Wonders of the Ancient World), the Library of Alexandria (the largest
library in the ancient world) and the Catacombs of Kom el Shoqafa (one of
the Seven Wonders of the Middle Ages). Ongoing maritime archaeology in the harbour of Alexandria (which began in 1994) is revealing details of
Alexandria both before the arrival of Alexander, when a city named Rhakotis existed there, and
during the Ptolemaic dynasty.
History
The city of Alexandria was named after its founder, Alexander the Great, and as
the seat of the Ptolemaic rulers of Egypt, quickly became one of the greatest cities of the Hellenistic world — second only to Rome in size and wealth.
However, it fell to the Arabs in 641 AD, and a new capital of
Egypt, Fustat, was founded on the Nile. After
Alexandria's status as the country's capital ended, it fell into a long decline, which by the late Ottoman period, had seen it reduced to little more than a small fishing village. The city was revived by
Muhammad Ali as a part of his early industrialization program. The current city is
Egypt's leading port, a commercial and transportation center, and the heart of a major industrial area where refined
petroleum, asphalt, cotton textiles, processed food,
paper, plastics and styrofoam are produced.
A panoramic view of Alexandria from "Alexandria Shooting Club"
Foundation
Alexandria was founded by Alexander the Great in 331 BC (the exact date is
disputed) as Ἀλεξάνδρεια (Aleksándreia; see also List
of traditional Greek place names). Alexander's chief architect for the project was Dinocrates. Ancient accounts are extremely numerous and varied, and much influenced by subsequent
developments. One of the more sober descriptions, given by the historian Arrian, tells how
Alexander undertook to lay out the city's general plan, but lacking chalk or other means, resorted to sketching it out with
grain.
A number of more fanciful foundation myths are found in the Alexander Romance and
were picked up by medieval Arab historians. The 14th century Arab historian Ibn Khaldun
ridiculed one where sea-monsters prevented the city's foundation, but were thwarted when Alexander descended below the sea in a
glass box, and armed with exact knowledge of their appearance, goes on to erect metal effigies on the beach which succeed in
frightening the monsters away.
Alexandria was intended to supersede Naucratis as a Hellenistic center in Egypt, and to be the link between Greece
and the rich Nile Valley. If such a city was to be on the Egyptian coast, there was only one
possible site, behind the screen of the Pharos island and removed from the silt thrown out by the
Nile. An Egyptian townlet, Rhakotis, already existed on the shore and was a resort filled with
fishermen and pirates. Behind it were five native villages scattered along the strip between Lake Mareotis and the sea, so told
according to a history of Alexander attributed to the author known as Pseudo-Callisthenes.
A few months after the foundation, Alexander left Egypt for the East and never returned to his city. After Alexander departed,
his viceroy, Cleomenes, continued the expansion of the city.
A story goes that Homer appeared to Alexander the Great in a dream and described a city he would build as "An island set in
ocean deep, lies off far Egypt's rich and fertile land, and the name of the island called Pharos".
Ptolemaic Era
In a struggle with the other successors of Alexander, his general, Ptolemy (later Ptolemy I
of Egypt) succeeded in bringing Alexander's body to Alexandria, where it became a famous tourist destination for ancient
travelers (including Julius Caesar).
Though Cleomenes was mainly in charge of seeing to Alexandria's continuous development, the Heptastadion and the main-land quarters seem to have been mainly Ptolemaic work.
Inheriting the trade of ruined Tyre and becoming the center of the new commerce between
Europe and the Arabian and Indian East, the city grew in less than a generation to be larger than Carthage. In a century, Alexandria had become the largest city in the world and for some centuries more, was
second only to Rome. It became the main Greek city of Egypt, with an extraordinary mix of Greeks
from many cities and backgrounds.[1] Nominally a free
Hellenistic city, Alexandria retained its senate of Roman times and the judicial functions of that body were restored by Septimius Severus after temporary abolition by Augustus.
Alexandria was not only a center of Hellenism but was also home to the largest
Jewish community in the world. The Septuagint, a
Greek translation of the Hebrew Bible, was produced
there. The early Ptolemies kept it in order and fostered the development of its museum into the leading Hellenistic centre of
learning (Library of Alexandria) but were careful to maintain the distinction of
its population's three largest ethnicities: Greek, Jewish, and
Egyptian.[2] Alexandrian Greeks placed an emphasis
on Greek culture in part to exclude and subjugate non-Greeks. There were two institutions in Alexandria that were devoted to the
preservation and study of Greek culture and which helped to exclude non-Greeks. In literature, non-Greek texts could only be kept
in the library once they had been translated into Greek and notably, there were
few references made to Egypt or native Egyptians in Alexandrian poetry; one of the few references to native Egyptians presents
them as "muggers."[2] There were large ostentatious religious processions in
the streets that displayed the wealth and power of the Ptolemies, but also celebrated and affirmed Greekness. These processions
were used to shout Greek superiority over any non-Greeks that were watching, thereby widening the divide between
cultures.[3] From this division arose much of the later
turbulence, which began to manifest itself under Ptolemy Philopater who reigned
from 221–204 BC. The reign of Ptolemy VIII Physcon from 144–116 BC was marked by
purges and civil warfare (including the expulsion of Apollodorus) as well as intrigues
associated with the king's wives and sons.
One of the earliest well-known inhabitants of Alexandria during the Ptolemaic reign was the geometer and number-theorist
Euclid.
Roman annexation
The city passed formally under Roman jurisdiction in 80 BC, according to the will of Ptolemy Alexander but only after it had been Roman influence for more than a hundred years. Julius
Caesar dallied with Cleopatra in Alexandria in 47 BC and was mobbed by the rabble. His
example was followed by Mark Antony, for whose favor the city paid dearly to
Octavian. Following Anthony's defeat at Alexandria, Octavian took Egypt for his own, appointing
a prefect who reported personally to him rather than to the Roman Senate. While in Alexandria, Octavian took time to visit
Alexander's tomb and inspected late king's remains. On being offered a viewing into the tombs of the pharaohs, he refused,
saying, 'I came to see a king, not a collection of corpses'.
The ancient Roman Amphitheatre in Alexandria
From the time of annexation and onwards, Alexandria seemed to have regained its old prosperity, commanding, as it did, an
important granary of Rome. This fact, doubtless, was one of the chief reasons which induced Octavian to place it directly under imperial power .
In 115 AD Alexandria was destroyed during the Jewish-Greek civil wars which gave Hadrian and his architect, Decriannus, an opportunity to rebuild it.
In 215 AD the emperor Caracalla visited the city
and, because of some insulting satires that the inhabitants had directed at him, abruptly
commanded his troops to put to death all youths capable of bearing arms. This brutal order seems to have been carried out even
beyond the letter, for a general massacre ensued.
Late Roman and Byzantine period
Even as its main historical importance had sprung from pagan learning, Alexandria now acquired new importance as a center of
Christian theology and church government. There,
Arianism was formulated and there also Athanasius, the great opponent of both Arianism and pagan reaction, triumphed over both,
establishing the Patriarch of Alexandria as a major influence on Christianity
for the next two centuries.
As native influences began to reassert themselves in the Nile valley, Alexandria
gradually became an alien city, more and more detached from Egypt and losing much of its commerce as the peace of the empire
broke up during the 3rd century AD, followed by a fast decline in population and
splendor.
In the late 4th century, persecution of pagans by newly
Christian Romans had reached new levels of intensity. Temples and statues were destroyed throughout the Roman empire: pagan
rituals became forbidden under punishment of death, and libraries were closed. In 391, Emperor Theodosius I ordered the destruction of all pagan temples, and the Patriarch Theophilus, complied with his request. One theory has it that the great Library of Alexandria and the Serapeum were destroyed about this time. The female mathematician and neoplatonist philosopher Hypatia was a prominent victim of
the persecutions.
The Brucheum and Jewish quarters were desolate in the 5th
century, and the central monuments, the Soma and Museum, fell into ruin. On the mainland, life seemed to have
centered in the vicinity of the Serapeum and Caesareum, both which became Christian
churches. The Pharos and Heptastadium quarters, however, remained populous and were
left intact.
Arab invasion
In 616, it was taken by Khosrau II, King of Persia. Although
the Byzantine Emperor Heraclius recovered
it a few years later, in 641 the Arabs, under the general Amr ibn
al-As during the Muslim conquest of Egypt, captured it decisively after
a siege that lasted fourteen months. The city received no aid from Constantinople during
that time; Heraclius was dead and the new Emperor Constantine III was barely
twelve years old. Notwithstanding the losses that the city had sustained, Amr was able to write to his master, the
Caliph Omar, that he had taken a city containing "4,000 palaces,
4,000 baths, 12,000 dealers in fresh oil, 12,000 gardeners, 40,000 Jews who pay tribute, 400 theaters or places of amusement." In
645 a Byzantine fleet recaptured the city, but it fell for good the following year.
The Library of Alexandria and its contents were destroyed in 642 during the
Arab invasion.[4] Some deny this and claim that the library
was destroyed much earlier, in 3rd century, due to civil war in the time of the Roman Emperor Aurelian.[5] The Lighthouse was destroyed
by earthquakes in the 14th century,[6] and by 1700 the city
was just a small town amidst the ruins.
Modern history
Mohammed Ali, the Ottoman Governor of Egypt, began rebuilding the city around 1810, and by 1850, Alexandria had returned to
something akin to its former glory. In July 1882 the city came under bombardment from
British naval forces and was occupied (see Egypt under Muhammad Ali and his successors).
In July 1954, the city was a target of an Israeli bombing campaign that later became known as the Lavon Affair. Only a few months later, Alexandria's Manshia Square was the site of the famous, failed
assassination attempt on the life of Gamal Abdel Nasser.
Mayors of Alexandria (since the implementation of the local-government act of 1960)[1] :
- Siddiq Abdul-Latif (Oct 1960 - Nov 1961)
- Mohammed Hamdi Ashour (Nov 1961 - Oct 1968)
- Ahmad Kamil (Oct 1968 - Nov 1970)
- Mamdouh Salim (Nov 1970 - May 1971)
- Ahmad Fouad Mohyee El-Deen (May 1971 - Sep 1972)
- Abdel-Meneem Wahbi (Sep 1972 - May 1974)
- Abdel-Tawwab Ahmad Hadeeb (May 1974 - Nov 1978)
- Mohammed Fouad Helmi (Nov 1978 - May 1980)
- Naeem Abu-Talib (May 1980 - August 1981)
- Mohammed Saeed El-Mahi (August 1981 - May 1982)
- Mohammed Fawzi Moaaz (May 1982 - Jun 1986)
- Ismail El-Gawsaqi (Jul 1986 - Jul 1997)
- Abdel-Salam El-Mahgoub (1997 - 2006)
- Adel Labib (August 2006 - )
Geography
Alexandria from space, March 1990
Layout of the ancient city
The Greek Alexandria was divided into three regions:
- Brucheum
- the Royal or Greek quarter, forming the most magnificent portion of the city. In Roman times Brucheum was enlarged by the
addition of an official quarter, making up four regions in all. The city was laid out as a grid of parallel streets, each of
which had an attendant subterranean canal;
- The Jews' quarter
- forming the northeast portion of the city;
- Rhakotis
- occupied chiefly by Egyptians (from Coptic Rakotə "Alexandria").
Two main streets, lined with colonnades and said to have been each about 60 metres (200
feet) wide, intersected in the centre of the city, close to the point where the
Sema (or Soma) of Alexander (his Mausoleum) rose. This point is very near the present
mosque of Nebi Daniel; and the line of the great East–West
"Canopic" street, only slightly diverged from that of the modern Boulevard de Rosette. Traces of its pavement and canal have been
found near the Rosetta Gate, but better remnants of streets and canals were exposed in 1899 by German excavators outside the east fortifications, which lie well within the area of the ancient city.
Alexandria consisted originally of little more than the island of Pharos, which was joined to the mainland by a
mole nearly a mile long (1260 m) and called the Heptastadion ("seven stadia"
— a stadium was a Greek unit of length measuring approximately 180 m). The end of
this abutted on the land at the head of the present Grand Square, where the "Moon Gate" rose. All that now lies between that
point and the modern "Ras Al Teen" quarter is built on the silt which gradually widened and obliterated this mole. The "Ras Al
Teen" quarter represents all that is left of the island of Pharos, the site of the actual lighthouse having been weathered away
by the sea. On the east of the mole was the Great Harbour, now an open bay; on the west lay the port of Eunostos, with its inner
basin Kibotos, now vastly enlarged to form the modern harbour.
In Strabo's time, (latter half of 1st century BC) the
principal buildings were as follows, enumerated as they were to be seen from a ship entering the Great Harbour.
- The Royal Palaces, filling the northeast angle of the town and occupying the promontory of Lochias, which shut in the Great
Harbour on the east. Lochias (the modern Pharillon) has almost entirely disappeared into the sea, together with the palaces, the
"Private Port" and the island of Antirrhodus. There has been a land subsidence here, as
throughout the northeast coast of Africa.
- The Great Theatre, on the modern Hospital Hill near the Ramleh station. This was used by Caesar as a fortress, where he
withstood a siege from the city mob after the battle of Pharsalus
- The Poseidon, or Temple of the Sea God, close to the Theatre
- The Timonium built by Mark Antony
- The Emporium (Exchange)
- The Apostases (Magazines)
- The Navalia (Docks), lying west of the Timonium, along the sea-front as far as the mole
- Behind the Emporium rose the Great Caesareum, by which stood the two great obelisks, each of
which become known as “Cleopatra's Needle”, and were transported to New York City and London. This temple became, in time, the
Patriarchal Church, though some ancient remains of the temple have been discovered. The actual Caesareum, the parts not eroded by
the waves, lies under the houses lining the new sea-wall.
- The Gymnasium and the Palaestra are
both inland, near the Boulevard de Rosette in the eastern half of the town; sites unknown.
- The Temple of Saturn; site unknown.
- The Mausolea of Alexander (Soma) and the Ptolemies in one ring-fence, near the point of intersection of the two main
streets
- The Musaeum with its famous Library and
theatre in the same region; site unknown.
- The Serapeum, the most famous of all Alexandrian temples. Strabo tells us that this stood
in the west of the city; and recent discoveries go far as to place it near “Pompey's Pillar” which was an independent monument
erected to commemorate Diocletian's siege of the city.
The names of a few other public buildings on the mainland are known, but there is little information as to their actual
position. None, however, are as famous as the building that stood on the eastern point of Pharos island. There, the
The Great Lighthouse, one of the Seven
Wonders of the World, reputed to be 138 meters (450 ft) high, was sited. The first Ptolemy began the project, and the second Ptolemy completed it, at a total cost of
800 talents. It took 12 years to complete and served as a
prototype for all later lighthouses in the world. The
light was produced by a furnace at the top and the tower was built mostly with solid blocks of limestone. The Pharos lighthouse
was destroyed by an earthquake in the 14th century, making it the second longest surviving ancient wonder next to the
Great Pyramid of Giza. A temple of Hephaestus
also stood on Pharos at the head of the mole.
In the first century, the population of Alexandria contained over 180,000 adult male citizens (from a papyrus dated
32 CE), in addition to a large number of freedmen, women, children and slaves. Estimates of the total population range from
500,000 to over 1,000,000, making it one of the largest cities ever built before the Industrial Revolution and the largest pre-industrial city that was not an imperial capital.
Ancient remains
Very little of the ancient city has survived into the present day. Much of the royal and civic quarters sank beneath the
harbour due to earthquake subsidence, and the rest has
been rebuilt upon in modern times.
"Pompey's Pillar" is the most well-known ancient monument still standing today. It is located on Alexandria's ancient
acropolis — a modest hill located adjacent to the city's Arab cemetery — and was originally part of a temple colonnade. Including its pedestal, it is 30 m (99 ft) high; the shaft is of polished red granite, roughly three meters in
diameter at the base, tapering to two and a half meters at the top. The structure was plundered and demolished in the
4th century when a bishop decreed that Paganism must be eradicated. "Pompey's Pillar" is a
misnomer, as it has nothing to do with Pompey, having been erected in 293 for Diocletian, possibly in memory of the rebellion of Domitius Domitianus. Beneath the acropolis itself are the subterranean remains of the Serapeum,
where the mysteries of the god Serapis were enacted, and whose carved wall niches are believed
to have provided overflow storage space for the ancient Library.
Alexandria's catacombs, known as Kom al Sukkfa, are a short distance southwest of
the pillar, consist of a multi-level labyrinth, reached via a large spiral staircase, and featuring dozens of chambers adorned
with sculpted pillars, statues, and other syncretic Romano-Egyptian religious symbols, burial
niches and sarcophagi, as well as a large Roman-style banquet room, where memorial meals
were conducted by relatives of the deceased. The catacombs were long forgotten by the citizens
until they were discovered by accident in the 1800s.
The most extensive ancient excavation currently being conducted in Alexandria is known as Kom al Dikka, and it has
revealed the ancient city's well-preserved theatre, and the remains of its Roman-era baths.
Antiquities
Persistent efforts have been made to explore the antiquities of Alexandria. Encouragement and help have been given by the
local Archaeological Society, and by many individuals, notably Greeks proud of a city which
is one of the glories of their national history.
The past and present directors of the museum have been enabled from time to time to carry out systematic excavations whenever
opportunity is offered; D. G. Hogarth made tentative researches on behalf of the
Egypt Exploration Fund and the Society for the Promotion of Hellenic Studies
in 1895; and a German expedition worked for two years (1898–1899). But two difficulties face the would-be excavator in
Alexandria: lack of space for excavation and the underwater location of some areas of interest.
Since the great and growing modern city stands right over the ancient one, it is almost impossible to find any considerable
space in which to dig, except at enormous cost. Also, the general subsidence of the coast has
sunk the lower-lying parts of the ancient town under water. This underwater section, containing much of the most interesting
sections of the Hellenistic city, including the palace-quarter, is still being extensively investigated by the French underwater
archaeologist Franck Goddio and his
team [2] and [3]. It raised a noted head of Caesarion. These are
even being opened up to tourists, to some controversy [4].
The spaces however, that are most open are the low grounds to northeast and southwest, where it is practically impossible to
get below the Roman strata.
The most important results were those achieved by Dr. G. Botti, late director of the museum, in the neighbourhood of “Pompey's
Pillar”, where there is a good deal of open ground. Here substructures of a large building or group of buildings have been
exposed, which are perhaps part of the Serapeum. Nearby immense catacombs and
columbaria have been opened which may have been appendages of the temple. These contain one very remarkable vault with
curious painted reliefs, now lighted by electricity and shown to visitors.
The objects found in these researches are in the museum, the most notable being a great basalt bull, probably once an object
of cult in the Serapeum. Other catacombs and tombs have been opened in Kom el-Shuqafa (Roman) and
Ras et-Tin (painted).
The German excavation team found remains of a Ptolemaic colonnade and streets in the north-east of the city, but little else.
Hogarth explored part of an immense brick structure under the mound of Kom el-Dika, which may have been part of the
Paneum, the Mausolea or a Roman fortress.
The making of the new foreshore led to the dredging up of remains of the Patriarchal Church; and the foundations of modern
buildings are seldom laid without some objects of antiquity being discovered. The wealth underground is doubtlessly immense; but
despite all efforts, there is not much for antiquarians to see in Alexandria outside the museum and the neighbourhood of
“Pompey's Pillar”. The native tomb-robbers, well-sinkers, dredgers and the like, however, come upon valuable objects from time to
time, most of which find their way into private collections.
Modern city
Modern Alexandria at night
Blocks
Modern Alexandria is divided into 6 blocks:
- Montaza block: population 943,100
- Eastern Alexandria block: population 933,600
- Middle Alexandria block: population 566,500
- Amreya block: population 457,800
- Western Alexandria block: population 450,300
- Gumrok block: population 186,900
There are also two cities under the jurisdiction of the Alexandria governarate:
- Borg Al-Arab city: population 186,900
- New Borg Al-Arab city: population 7600
←===Neighborhoods===
- Agami
- Amreya
- Anfoushi
- Assafra
- Attarine
- Azarita, also known as Mazarita, originally Lazarette
- Bab Sidra
- Bahari
- Bachus
- Bulkeley, also known as Bokla
- Burg el-Arab
- Cleopatra
- Dekheila
- Downtown
- Eastern Harbor
- Fleming
- Gabbari, also known as Qabbari
- Gianaclis
- Glym (short for Glymenopoulos)
- Gumrok
- Hadara
- Ibrahimeya
- Kabbary, also "Qabbary"
- King Mariout
- Kafr Abdu
- Karmous, also known as Karmouz
- Kom el-Dik, also known as Kom el-Dekka
- Labban
- Laurent
|
|
- Maamoura Beach
- Maamoura
- Mafrouza
- Mandara
- Manshiyya
- Mex
- Miami
- Montaza
- Muharram Bey
- Mustafa Kamel
- Ramleh, also known as el-Raml
- Ras el-Tin
- Rushdy
- Saba Pasha
- San Stefano
- Shatby
- Schutz
- Sidi Bishr
- Sidi Gaber
- Smouha
- Sporting
- Stanley
- Syouf
- Tharwat
- Victoria
- Wardeyan
- Western Harbor
- Zizinia
|
|
- Stanley Bridge, in Stanley
- Muharram Bey Bridge
Educational institutions
Institution Sainte Jeanne-Antide
Libraries
The Royal Library of Alexandria in Alexandria, Egypt, was once the largest library in the world. It is generally thought to have been founded at the beginning of the
3rd century BC, during the reign of Ptolemy II
of Egypt. It was likely created after his father had built what would become the first part of the Library complex, the
temple of the Muses — the Museion, Greek Μουσείον (from
which the modern English word museum is derived).
It has been reasonably established that the Library, or parts of the collection, were destroyed by fire on a number of
occasions (library fires were common and replacement of handwritten manuscripts was very difficult, expensive and
time-consuming). To this day the details of the destruction (or destructions) remain a lively source of controversy. The
Bibliotheca Alexandrina was inaugurated in 2003
near the site of the old Library.
Museums