What would you like to do?
You can, but you might want to check with a garden store before you do because you can cause problems by mixing certain chemicals. They might have something already made for that purpose. "Agent Orange" was basically just a mix of two kinds of weed and woody plant killers.
48 people found this useful
Was this answer useful?
Thanks for the feedback!
Can you recommend a weed killer that is safe to use on your lawn but does not act as a feed for the lawn?
Answer Boiling Water Answer #2 I've never tried boiling water but I suspect that this will only kill the leaves leaving the root intact. If you don't kill t…he root the weed will re-grow. The solution will depend on whether you are treating broadleaf weeds (Dandelion) or grassy weeds. I would recommend products like Ortho Weed-B-Gone which comes in different types. You can spray directly on the weed without damaging the grass. Or you can use a spreader to evenly spread granular weed killer on your lawn. I think the reason some products are a combination of weed killer and fertilizer is that the fertilizer helps promote a healthier, fuller lawn which in turn chokes out weeds. For more on this you can go to sites lke Scott's - see link below
Most weed killers, even natural products, do not differentiate between weeds and grasses. You can make your own weed killer from vinegar and salt, but again this will kill… everything, including grass.
For a home owner purchase, I would recomend Bayer Advance. Most pest control products that home owners can buy are the same thing. There are about 3 types of pesticides …you can buy now days. Most have a short life and are very stable to use.
Well Madre cacao (Gliricidia sepium), is well known for its insecticidal properties and use as an insect repellent (as well as a number of other medicinal uses). The seco…nd part of the answer is more difficult as you do not specify which Euphorbia would be used. In general the sap of Euphorbia can range between a mild irritant to toxic - depending on the species. On the upside it is normally slightly sticky; which could possibly be put to use to cover and smother insects - although it is more likely to clog any spray device that you tried to apply it through.
weed killer has turned my lawn yellow
Mix salt and vinegar, spray or pour it on when it is dry and wont rain for at least a day. It really works and is safer than most off the shelf herbicides. If you want to go n…uts - put a big pot on your barbecue grill (outside for ventilation) and heat up a pot of vinegar and a little water, pretty hot, but not boiling - keep adding salt and stirring in until it (salt) wont dissolve anymore. Let cool and now you have a concentrated mix. Tip: use water softener salt from a hardware store - its a lot cheaper than table salt from a grocery store and works just as good. Buy vinegar by the gallon at a bulk foods store.
It depends what type of weedkiller was used. if it was a total weedkiller then the lawn will have to be re-sown. If it was a contact weedkiller then the grass may re-grow.
The most important thing to do is to read the label carefully and completely before you open the container. The label contains important information including how to use the p…roduct, protective clothing that needs to be worn, the types of weeds it will control and dilution rates. With that said, here is some general information on using weed killers: Weed killers, called herbicides, come in different forms. Some are granular and can be applied with a lawn fertilizer spreader. Some granular lawn fertilizers come with a pre-emergent or post-emergent herbicide mixed in. There are both, non-selective and selective herbicides. Non-selective herbicides are include products like "Round-Up" will kill grass and weeds. Selective herbicides will target specific weeds or grasses. Broadleaf herbicides will target weeds like dandelion, clover, and other weeds, but will not harm the grass. Most weed killers, however, are in liquid form. They will either be in concentrated form or come premixed in a ready to use solution. The concentrated forms must be diluted before they can be used. Water is most generally used to dilute the herbicide. The label will tell you how much water to use to get the correct ratio. The exception is hose end herbicide containers. These are the types of containers that attached directly to the end of your water hose and the herbicide is released into the water stream. They are easy to use, but they don't always work well. If you only have a few weeds or a small yard, you can use a small pump garden sprayer. Open the sprayer and add the amount of herbicide needed for the job. Then add the correct amount water to complete the solution. Replace the lid, which is usually the pumping mechanism, and pump the sprayer until you feel sufficient resistance. Spray the weeds so they are covered. Spot spraying the weeds is the best method. Since you are only spraying the weeds as you find them, you use less chemical and it is safer on the environment. For larger jobs you may consider a backpack sprayer. You mix the herbicide the same way, but the backpack sprayer will hold more. Since it is worn like a backpack, your arms and back don't tire as easily. I have a Solo brand backpack sprayer that I have used for several years without any problems. There is an excellent website that explains herbicide safety in detail with types of herbicides that are available plus all other aspects of lawn care. The website is called Lawn Care Academy and is found at http://www.lawn-care-academy.com/index.html Hope this helps.
, concentrated Trimec Herbicide can be used safely on many lawns. You need to be careful though because there are some kinds of grass that Trimec can kill. You can use Trime…c on: Cool Season GrassesCommon BermudagrassBahiagrassZoysiagrass. You should NOT use Trimec on St Augustine grass Directions for using Trimec: Mix 1.2 - 1.5 oz of concentrated trimec herbicide in 1/2 - 6 gallons of water for every 1000 square feet. If are spraying it on large areas like a field then use 3.25 - 4 pints in 20 - 260 gallons of water per acre. See the link below for a place you can get Trimec Herbicide Hope that helps!
Yes, it's actually designed to be used directly on your lawn. It comes in a bottle that you can connect your hose to and spray over your lawn. I have read the Concentrate and… Spray bottle instructions...BOTH SAY USE ON LAWNS IS PROHIBITED...I would like to know why? The dust and the Granules are able to be used on Lawns but have read they kill MANY pests....
In Lawn Care
Killing the moss in lawns is simply a short term measure. Moss in Lawns is probably one of the least understood of all grass lawn problems. Treating or killing the moss is not… the answer. Moss is a sign that something is basically wrong with your lawn. Too often, gardeners attempt to kill moss in lawns without tackling the problem that actually causes it. They are helped to this decision by the huge range of 'moss killers' available at local garden centres. | There are two basic moss killers for lawns that are available - Ferrous Sulphate and Dichlorophen. One or the other is usually incorporated into typical lawns Feed and Mosskiller combinations. The latter is also available as a ready to use 'Moss Gun' for small patches. Neither do anything by way of treating the basic problem of moss in lawns. They simply kill the moss which is there. It will return If you really want to eradicate moss from your lawn, then you have to find out the actual problem that is causing it, rather than just treating it. The reasons are various, but not too difficult to isolate. They can be one or several of the causes outlined belowWaterlogging - in winter or summer.Poor feeding regime - usually denoted by light green grass.Acid soil - carry out a test.Shaded Lawns - overhanging trees or large shrubs.Mowing lawns too close - a common cause, for it weakens the grass - allowing moss to take holdDrought - if severe enough to harm or kill the grass. Not to be confused with a bit of summer-browningSandy - free-draining soils. This can weaken the grass and allow moss to take over. Some mosses are quite happy in these conditions.Compaction - continued use by children and pets with no remedial attention by way of aeration in the Autumn. Generally, lawns that are well maintained - which includes being well fed, cut properly, aerated and not allowed to develop thatch - then the problems which result in moss will not occur in the first place. Moss can rarely compete with strong growing grass in lawns. It is allowed to develop and take a hold when the grass growth is weak. Get the grass growing properly and the likelihood is that your lawn will not suffer from moss problems. Treating small areas of lawn moss can be carried out with a moss killer containing Dichlorophen. After a couple of weeks, you can rake out the dead moss and re-seed. If you need to use a feed for the area, it is better to feed the whole lawn in order to avoid patchiness! Assuming that you have inherited a lawn with a moss problem, you should carry out the following maintenance regime - rather than simply treating the moss which is there. (The details of all operations are to be found elsewhere in this section. Quick fixes just do not work, other than to kill the moss which is present.) Unless you tackle the underlying problem, the moss will return!In Spring, apply a Ferrous Sulphate based moss-killer to the whole affected area.Two weeks later, rake out the dead moss.Re seed the bare areasEarly summer, apply a lawn fertilizer to get the grass growing againMow the lawn properly, regularly, throughout the summer - NOT too shortKeep the lawn well watered i n drought conditions to allow the new grass to keep growing.Take note of any areas of dense shade on your lawn, and try to minimize this if possible.In Autumn, give the lawn a good raking or mechanical scarifying, and aerate.Apply top dressing at this time if the lawn is either uneven, or in need of an organic 'injection'. Particularly useful on weak sandy soils.Carry out a soil test at some stage in the summer/autumn to assess the acidity of the soil. If in need of adjustment, then lime can be applied in the autumn.Keep off lawns in the winter months in order to avoid compaction of the surface. If by the autumn, your lawn is growing well, then most if not all of the moss in your lawn will have been controlled or even eradicated. Further spot treatments may be needed, or maybe even a full treatment for most lawns again the following spring.Dry soil is susceptible to mosses which tend to grow in upright habit with small leaves.Damp, compacted and waterlogged lawns usually results in mosses that have a creeping habit.Cushion habit mosses usually state that you are mowing the grass too short.First signs of moss taking hold in this generally uncared-for lawn. It has a build-up of thatch, and has been lacking in proper care and attention resulting in poor grass that leads the way open to moss taking over. The maintenance regime as outlined above for moss in lawns would do much to alleviate this problem. Simply treating or killing the moss in your lawn is not the answer.
By the time common weed killers are carried to the water table the contaminants have usually been filtered by the ground. If you have never drunk this before you should always… have it tested by a lab first
I think that's an EC (contains emulsifier i.e. solvents) your best bet is a granular spread with a hand spreader or use a WP (wettable powder/no solvents) be careful the s…hock of the chemical can drive them all over the place which is why I like the granule-it releases slowly to avoid that problem and no mixing
Wait until the grass and weeds have started growing well then apply weed and feed according to instructions on the packet. If there is no growth the weed element will not work….