Yes. The electricity in your home is nominally 240 volts or 120 volts to ground on each hot leg in a 240 volt system. Appliances are sometimes designated 220v, 230v, 240v, however they are all used on the same system. Most electrical devices are rated higher than the actual voltage present. For example, NMD90 wire (commonly referred to as Romex or Loomex) is rated for 300 volts, however the system still only operated at 120/240.
SAFETY WARNING
IF THE 230V APPLIANCE HAS BROWN, BLUE AND GREEN/YELLOW WIRES IT WAS INTENDED ONLY FOR USE ON THE 50HZ SERVICES WHICH ARE STANDARD IN Europe, Australia AND MANY OTHER COUNTRIES.
The Brown wire is the 230V "hot", the Blue wire is the "neutral" and the Yellow/Green wire is the safety "earth" or "ground" connection.
Apart from the wire colors, the most important differenceis how the neutral wire is connected:
In a 240 Volts 50 Hz appliance has 3 wires altogether, a safety "Earth" or "Ground" conductor, one single 240 volt "live" or "hot" wire and a Neutral wire connected as a return to the single "hot".
Equipment that is designed to be connected to strictly 240 volts 60 Hz is connected with only a two wire cable (sometimes with one hot wire colored Red and the other hot wire colored Black - or both hots can be Black wires) plus a safety ground wire that is colored Green or is just bare copper. (For example 240 volt 60 Hz base board heaters use that.) The only time a cable with three wires plus safety ground is used is if 120/240 volts is needed in the equipment. (For example kitchen ranges or washing machines which have time clocks or programmers that require only a 120 volt feed.)
So an appliance designed to run on a 240/120 volt 60 Hz supply has 4 wires altogether: a safety "Ground" conductor and 3 further wires, namely a Neutral wired as a "central" common return conductor and two 120 Volt 60 Hz live "hot legs" which run in opposing phase to one another. When one hot leg is "+" (120 Volts positive) the other leg is "-" (120 Volts negative).
So there is a 240 Volt voltage difference between the "Neutral" and the "Hot" conductor in the 50 Hz system and only a 120 Volt voltage difference between the "Neutral" and each of the "Hot"conductors in the 60 Hz system. In the main breaker box, at the point where the 60 Hz "Neutral" gets connected to the "Ground", this difference will cause serious problems!
That is why an appliance designed to be connected onto the 50 Hz system cannot be used safely on the 60 Hz system without first having a proper technical inspection done, followed by any necessary modification work done to ensure that the appliance can be operated safely.
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As always, if you are in doubt about what to do, the best advice anyone should give you is to call a licensed electrician to advise what work is needed.
Before you do any work yourself,
on electrical circuits, equipment or appliances,
always use a test meter to ensure the circuit is, in fact, de-energized.
IF YOU ARE NOT ALREADY SURE YOU CAN DO THIS JOB
SAFELY AND COMPETENTLY
REFER THIS WORK TO QUALIFIED PROFESSIONALS.
for USA, Canada and other countries running a 60 Hz supply service.
Outlets in homes are either 120 volts (+/- 10%, i.e. 108 - 132 volts) or 240 volts (+/- 10%). A 220 volt appliance can be used on a 240 volt outlet because the actual voltages delivered on these circuits can range from 216 - 264 volts.
There are no 250 volt outlets in the U.S. The 250 volt number printed on the plug reflects the maximum voltage that the plug can handle as a conductor. The plug capacity is greater than the applied voltage and so is the rest of the system to handle the power load. Another reason for a larger voltage range is to handle motor startup which creates a heavy demand on the system while the motor's capacitor and startup windings energize to bring the motor to running speed.
Yes you can 250 volts is the maximun voltage rating of of this device. You will also need to make sure that you also use a receptacle that is rated for the amperage of your ac unit.
Sure. The numbers are maximums. In the US you are only going to get 208 or 240 from the electric supply.
The pin configuration of the 240 volt receptacle is different from a 120 volt pin configuration. This is a safety factor to prevent the wrong voltage being applied to the wrong devices.
Yes, the 250 volt rating on the appliance is the maximum voltage rating that can be applied to the appliance.
Sure!
Probably not, but I have yet to see a 150 volt appliance as this is a non-standard voltage. If you are referring to a 115 volt appliance then the answer is yes you can as 110/115/120 volts tend to be used interchangeably in practice and are close enough together to not affect operation of the appliance.
No a 230 volt appliance should not be pluuged into a 110 volt socket (And vice versa) you need to buy a converter that can be plugged into the 110 volt outlet then the appliance can be plugged into the converter.
it is likely that a floating neutral is the cause of this problem
It is not just the outlet, but the wiring and breakers that need to be compatible with your 240 Volt appliance. Get an electrician to look at your requirement.
No, the plugs are different to prevent this and even if you could the lamp would be very dim.
Yes.
No, the applied 110 volt is too high for a 3 volt appliance. The appliance would burn out right away.
NO
no
Probably not, but I have yet to see a 150 volt appliance as this is a non-standard voltage. If you are referring to a 115 volt appliance then the answer is yes you can as 110/115/120 volts tend to be used interchangeably in practice and are close enough together to not affect operation of the appliance.
You plug the appliance into the outlet. Israel uses 220-volt household current. Any 110-volt appliances brought from abroad will need a small transformer, which can be bought in appliance stores.
Yes, normally, assuming it's 60 cycle (hertz) AC. In the USA, 110 volts as such is no longer used, it's really 120 plus or minus about 5 volts everywhere.
Yes. Circuits in a home are 120 volts but people tend to call them 110 volt circuits. The 120 volts you read on the appliance is the maximum voltage the appliance can handle. The actual voltage you will read at any outlet will range from 110 to 120 volts.
No a 230 volt appliance should not be pluuged into a 110 volt socket (And vice versa) you need to buy a converter that can be plugged into the 110 volt outlet then the appliance can be plugged into the converter.
The bulb will be about half as bright.
Nominally 110 to 120 volt power strip is okay to connect to a standard outlet.
No conversion needed. These are nominal voltages which range from 110 to 120 volts. It will operate fine on the outlet.