Change spark plugs for 99 Mercury Cougar?
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You can find the correct firing order for your 1987 mercury cougar at www.coolcats.com, it is a website dedicated to the cougar and thunderbird.
V-6 answer: Standing at the licenst plate. Remove the plastic shroud on top of the engine (closest to you) and unbolt the metal box directly below it you can gain access to the front three. As for the back, remove the connector and screw at the 7 o'clock position off to the side of the dist cap. Y…ou CAN reach the back three with two 6 inch socket extenders and without remvoing any other engine parts. Should take 30 min regardless of experience. I just did mine and I'm not a mechanic (06/27/07). Hey, I'm not sure if the answer involving removal of the valve covers, and appearently everything else in the engine compartment, is misleading on purpose but...... all you need to do on the 4 cylinder Cougar is pull the wires out by their bases and use a long exstension on your socket. I'm not sure what this guy was trying to do but I hope not too many people followed his advice!! The answer from Greg was exactly correct. To remove the spark plugs, remove the covers and you will see how simple it really is. The spark plugs are hiding under the covers. Greg Hasen Not only you will have to lift the covers, but to reach the back three you will have to remove the valve cover. Here's how to: 1. Remove the water pump belt cover (the black cover in the front of the engine compartment that has ?Duratec? on it.) If you have a 1996+ vehicle, you should think about removing it permanently, since it only serves to trap heat and slowly kill the IMRC box electronics. 2. Disconnect the following electrical connectors from the: MAF, IAT, TPS, IAC, and EVR. The EVR connector is black and is located at the very back of the upper plenum, next to the firewall. 3. Disconnect throttle cable from the TB and the cruise control cable, if equipped. For 1995 5-speed vehicles, take care not to lose the metal clip for the throttle cable when you are removing it. Once the cable is removed the clip will slide right off. 4. Disconnect the vacuum lines from the EVR. You may have to wait until the upper intake is unbolted and partially removed for better leverage. 5. Disconnect the vacuum lines from the top of the upper intake. Push down on the black plastic collar with a screwdriver and hold, and then pull the plastic line out of the intake. 6. Remove the air box along with the MAF and accordion tube. 7. Unbolt the throttle cable bracket from the upper intake (three 8mm bolts, one 10mm nut). Set bracket and attached cables aside. 8. Disconnect the air bypass hose at the upper intake. It connects right next to the IAC valve. 9. Disconnect the hose from the PCV valve that goes to the upper intake, underneath the throttle body. This is also a good time to change the PCV valve. 10. Unbolt the EGR valve from the upper intake. 11. Unbolt the upper intake. 12. Carefully remove the upper intake and set it on top of some clean rags or newspaper. It will likely be oozing some oily gunk out the bottom. 13. Cover the openings of the lower intake with clean rags to keep anything from falling into the openings. Anything that falls in will likely end up in the head or the cylinders themselves. Now you are free to remove the back plugs. Jesus (MORE)
Answer . According the the Chilton's manual I have for Courgars and T-Birds, its .054. Several references on the net seem to confirm this. Very wide if you ask me, I can't find a gapping tool that goes out that wide. I've had to use a combination of smaller feeler gauge blades and have been ab…le to get .053 inches. (MORE)
I can't tell you the proper way which I believe involves removing several items like the alternator and possibly the intake manifold and then unsecuring the engine and rotating it forward. I can tell you the way I did it. The first time it took me 2 hrs, the 2nd time it me 1.5 hrs so it is a matter …of figuring out the little things. 1. Remove the plastic cowl on the top of the engine. Hint, after taking the 3 hex-head screws out the "Lexus" emblem screws out. 2. The front 3 spark plus are easy to remove, unplug the coil packs. 3. Unscrew the retaining bolt with a 10mm wrench. 4. Pull the coil pack straight out. 5. Use a spark plug socket and extension and unscrew the spark plugs. Reverse these steps to replace. Note: Plug gap is 44 and I would use irridium plugs. Another hint is to use silicon spray into the coil pack fittings - both the spark plug end and the electrical fitting end. A little silicon into the spark plug socket before putting in the spark plug will allow the socket to release easier when retracking the extension and socket. 6. The back three plugs are much more difficult. I removed the cruise control cable and mounting bracket from the throtle body. I also removed the PVC tubing from the left side of the intake manifold. You should then be able to insert each of your hands into the respective openings, you pretty much have to perform the rest of the steps blindly. The space is tight but I have done it 3 times now and can say that it can be done and probably easier then the factory method. 6. This will be the hardest part, unplug the the coil packs. 7. Unscrew the retaining bolt with a 10mm wrench. 8. You won't be able to pull the coil packs straight out but you can get them out but move slowly so as to not damage the coil packs - they are around $100 a piece. 9. It will be easier to get at the spark plugs if you first drop in the spark plug socket, then insert the socket extension. Make sure you get the extension plugged into the socket and then the socket secured on the spark plug. Then wiesel a socket wrench in and plug it into the extension. To crack loose the spark plugs from the right side (socket wrench handle pointed to the right) you will push toward the firewall, on the left side (socket wrench handle pointed to the left) you will pull towards you. After cracking the spark plugs loose you should be able to remove the socket wrench and using your fingers on the end of the extension unscrew the plugs. 10. To reinstall the plugs insert the plug into the socket first and remember the silicon spray into the socket, then wiesel the plug, socket and extension into the spark plug hole. Tighten the spark plug as tight as possible with your fingers. Perform final tightening with the socket wrengh. 11. Replace the coil packs and remember the silicon spray. Secure them with the retaining bolts. 12. Plug in the coil pack electrical fittings. 13. Reinstall the cruise control mounting bracket and cable, reinstall the PVC tubing and the the engine cowl and you are done. (MORE)
Answer . First, if you would like to do simple repairs I recommend buying a Haynes Manual for about twenty bucks. They are handy, they have pictures andt tell you alot of things about your car. \n. \nOtherwise, \n1. Remove plug wires from spark plugs.\n2. Using a spark plug wrench remove the sp…ark plugs.\n3. Replace with new plugs (note: you may want to gap them to the manufaturer's specifications which i don't know but would be in the Haynes Manual)\n4. Replace the plugs and tighten to manufacturer's specs. (Also in Haynes Manual)\n5. Replace wires. You should also inspect these for any wear. If any wear is found i would consider replacing these as well.. Answer . \nI know that the gap for my 95 Neon Highline is .035 - BabyBoyBME03@aol.com (MORE)
Answer . \nRemove the old ones and out in new ones. I would suggest you invest in a repair manual. It cost around $12 at most auto parts stores, and will contain the info you need to complete this repair and many others. It will pay for itself with this one repair
When changing an ignition coil on a 1999 Mercury Cougar, it is veryimportant that all of the spark plug wires are put back on exactlyas they were taken off. A set of markers will help to identify whatwire goes where. Take off each spark plug wire one at a time andplace it in the same position on the… new coil. Before taking thewires off it will help to color code them with markers. (MORE)
Answer . This information can be found in your owner's manual, or under the hood on a placard. If you do not have one, then you need to get one. Dealer, E-Bay, Salvage Yard, and many online sites are sources for a manual. Use Google and search with the term, "Automobile Owner's Manual".
Answer . I'm not sure how experienced you are but there is a tensioner pulley that you may be able to tell is not the alternator, water pump, A/C Pump, or main pulley. If you put a socket od the nut that is in the tensioner pulley and TIGHTEN it, the entire pulley will move towards the front of …the engine. When that happens the belt becomes loose and you can remove it. You'll have to take off a couple of small covers if I remember right, but they are easy. When you put thew new belt on make sure it is going the correct direction. If you don't have a diagram of the belt as it's installed you should draw yourself one before you take it off so you will know what to run the belt around, over or under---peace:) (MORE)
Answer . \nStraight forward job but be careful on replacing the plugs as they are deep\n. \nalso remember which lead goes where
Answer . The spark plugs are actually located under the manifold on the top of the engine 3 in front and 3 in back....
Answer . \nVery easy. Remove the engine appearance cover on the front of the engine (Should say Duratec V6 or something similar), 3 bolts hold it in. Next, remove the silver box underneath (IMRC)by removing 3 bolts, gently set aside. This will give you access to the front 3 plugs. The rears can …be accessed as they are with a long extension bar. For added room on the rear 3 plugs, remove the coil pack by taking out the 4 mounting bolts...just remember to put the grounding strap and noise filter back on when putting the mounting bolts back in. (MORE)
Check the Vehicle Emission Control Information ( VECI ) decallocated in the front of the engine compartment ( it will show what type of sparkplugs to use and the spark plug gap )
Use a 1/4" ratchet, 4" & 6" extentions, swivel, adapter, and foam filled spark plug deep well socket. Use the combination of these tools that feels right for you. The extentions will be primarily for the three rear (closest to the fire wall). Most mechanics will say it is necessary to remove the ple…num. This is NOT true. I changed my plugs without removing the plenum and using these same tools. I still had the original (OEM) plugs wires and chose not to replace them. You can replace with OEM purchased from dealership for about $250, give or take, or replace with after market wires. Job complete about 1.5 hrs depending on you. (MORE)
Drain the engine oil. Remove the pan bolts. The engine may have tobe unbolted from the motor mounts and lifted slightly to remove thepan. Pull the pan out, then install the new pan and gasket.
Answer . You fail the mention which engine, so I will assume it is a V6: Look here:. http://autorepair.about.com/library/firing_orders/bl-fo-4103.htm
Answer . You don't say which engine you have, but the procedure on any of them is basically the same. First of all, you want to make sure that you don't mix up the wires. For this reason, I usually do them one at a time. Remove one of the plug wires from the plug by twisting and pulling gentl…y on the rubber boot at the end of the wire. Move the wire aside. Now, using the proper sized plug socket (which has a protective rubber insert to protect the plug), remove the exposed plug. Note that plugs sometimes become a little rusted or corroded and are hard to loosen. You CAN strip the threads out of the head if you don't use caution. If you think that a plug is coming out entirely too hard, stop trying. Squirt some Liquid Wrench or WD-40 around the base of the plug and wait awhile. This usually will loosen it enough to get it out intact. Once the plug is out, you're ready to replace it. Make sure your new plugs are properly gapped. (your parts house will tell you the gap and sometimes gap them for you) Smear a bit of clean motor oil on the threads of the new plug. This will help to prevent the rust/corrosion mentioned above. Gently begin to thread the new plug into the head. You might have to use your socket extension to hold the plug and to get it into the hole. Make DANGED sure you are not cross threading the plug! When it's threading in fairly easily, you can go ahead and tighten it with the socket. Get it real snug, but don't go crazy. Next, follow the wire you took off that plug back to the coil pack, noting the routing and any hold downs. You might have to use Braille or The Force to do this, as the coil packs aren't always visible. Gently pull the plug wire off the coil pack. Now, plug the new wire onto the coil pack, reroute it to the plug and plug it snugly onto the plug. THAT'S ONE! This job is like using shampoo ... apply, rinse, repeat. When you're done, start the car to be sure that you don't have a miss. If you do, it means that either you have a plug wire loose, or you've mixed up the wires. Turn off the car, check for these problems and adjust as necessary. Start the car again to be sure you've found the problem. If the car runs smoothly, you're good to go! As always, having a Haynes or Chilton manual around is a good idea. FriPilot (MORE)
Answer . you pull the spark plug with either one of the standard plud sockets (there are only 2) you then locate the number on the old plug and call it in to a auto parts store and get your self new ones, then you put the new ones back in....
See your user manual, its great for basic maintenance info. If you kneed more info you shoud get a do it yourself book, there at most autoparts stores around 20 bucks, well worth it.
According to one of Fords websites : For the 4.6 liter V8 engine in a 1996 Mercury Cougar , the spark plugs are gapped at ( .054 inch ) * confirm with the Vehicle Emissions Control Information ( VECI ) decal located in the front of your engine compartment
The firing order for a 1990 Cougar 3.8 is 1-4-2-5-3-6. The numberone cylinder is the front one on the passenger side.
Replacing the tire on a 99 mercury cougar is fairly easy. Jack upthe car, remove the rim bolts and the tire will come off. Put onnew one and reassemble.
same way as you replace the front three. You may need to move 1 or 2 components to access them, and you will probably need an extention and universal joint, or wobble joint.
To change the spark plugs, the ones on the left side (driver's side) of the engine are accessible from the top of the engine under the hood. The plugs on the right side (passenger side) are accessible by pulling the right front wheel and removing the rubber dust cover (pops off) that attaches to the… fenderwell. This is assuming that you have a 5.0L V8 engine (302ci).. Have Fun!!! (MORE)
.52 - .56 Only use Motorcraft or Autolite plugs or your car won't run worth a crap after a couple of weeks. Assuming you have the 6 cyl? Duratec engines in the Cougars are notorious for not liking other brands.
Changing the spark plug wires is very simple. The replacement wiresare the Bosch 5812-07098319 set for the V6 orÃBosch 5812-07098498for the 4-cylinder. One at a time, disconnect the wire from thedistributor and the plug. Replace with the wire that is the samelength. ProceedÃ
I just had my spark plugs replaced today and there are no wires just 4 plastic housing type cartridges that fits over the plugs. The 4 housings had to be replaced for $12 apiece(4 of them ++++++++++++++++ The above applies to the 2.3 and 2.4 liter engines. The more common 2.2L engine does not us…e the coil-over-plug design and in fact does have spark plug wires. Replacing them is not easy because the coil pack is on the back side of the engine facing the firewall and there is very little room to get an arm in there. Make sure the engine is cool before starting as you will be pressing your skin directly against the engine. You will have to squeeze your arm down behind the engine, next to the power steering pump. You can't see what you're doing, you'll have to go on feel alone. Replace just one wire at a time so you don't accidentally replace them in a crossed/wrong pattern. It's not as easy as it is on a lot of vehicles due to the location of the coil pack but it can be done without lifting the vehicle or removing any other components. Good luck. (MORE)
The Spark plug location on the 2001 2.5 liter dohc is under the valve cover.
4 6 5 3 2 1 Coil^ 1 2 3 4 5 6 front of car match numbers
According to one of Fords websites : For the 3.8 liter V6 engine in a 1988 Mercury Cougar : ( the spark plugs are gapped at .054 inch )
According to one of the Ford websites : For a 1988 Mercury Cougar , 3.8 liter V6 engine : ( the spark plugs are gapped at .054 inch )
One at a time... Here's a step-by-step guide for your car (make sure it all goes on one line): http://www.autozone.com/addVehicleId,1612301/initialAction,repairGuide/shopping/repairGuide.htm?pageId=0900c1528006b415#hd1-1-2 Have fun!
.040 ========== According to one of Fords websites : For a 1993 Mercury Cougar : The 3.8 liter V6 engine and the 5.0 , V8 have spark plugs gapped at: ( .054 inch )
break off the old ones with a sledge hammer and drill out the stubs with a roto hammer. now pour some epoxy in there.. let it set for three weeks. now sand insides with a dremel tool and install new plugs, youre all set
According to the 2002 Mercury Cougar Owner Guide : For the 2.5 liter V6 engine : The spark plug gap is ( .054 inch ) *** confirm with the Vehicle Emission Control Information ( VECI ) decal , in the front of your engine compartment ***
The 2006 Mercury Milan uses coil packs instead of a standard distributor and plug wires. Open the hood and on the top of the engine you'll see the coil packs that look like little black square boxes with a round rubber circle under them. Look on the upper left hand side of it and you'll see a silver… color bolt that takes an 8mm socket wrench to loosen. So loosen the bolt and pull up on the coil pack and you'll pull it out and off to the side. Now you need a 3/8th socket wrench, a 5 or 6 inch extension piece and a spark plug socket. The plugs are way down deep which is why you need the socket wrench extension, make sure you turn it counter clockwise to loosen and clockwise to tighten. When putting new plugs in the head, NEVER tighten them down rock hard. Put just enough pressure to get a snug fit, same goes for putting on a new oil filter...do NOT over tighten them. (MORE)
take the upper intake off then you can get to the plugs good New Answer: I had trouble getting access to the rear plug wires and trouble getting a plug threaded once I got one out. I removed the plenum, about six nuts, to get better access to the rear bank . Nothing mysterious, leaking, or needin…g new gaskets under the plenum. Was able to get the spark plugs in and out that way. (MORE)
According to one of Fords websites : For the 1992 Mercury Cougar , 3.8 liter V6 engine : ( the spark plugs are gapped at .054 inch )
How to Change Spark Plugs on 4.6 & 5.4 Liter I've replaced plugs on quite a few 5.4Ls now (the 4.6L with plug wires is similar) and once you've done a set they really are not as bad as they look. Contrary to what some people will say, you don't have to remove the fuel rails. The Coil on Plug (…COP) assemblies will come out past the fuel rail. I take an old piece of seat foam and put it on top of the radiator support to the engine to allow me to lay on it without hurting my tummy. It makes the job way less painful. Start by removing the cover over the throttle body (the black plastic cover that says "5.4" on it). There are three 10mm head bolts that hold it on. Next remove the air intake tube from the throttle body to the air filter housing. You loosen the hose clamps at either end of it; disconnect the connector on the AT (about half way up the air intake hose), the pull out the small hoses that go into the air intake tube near the throttle body. Next remove the brace from the power steering reservoir to thermostat housing. There are three 8mm or 5/16" head screws that hold it on. Now you should be able to see the COPs. To remove the COPs you can use a 7mm or 9/32" wrench or nut driver or socket, extension and ratchet or all of the above. If you turn the fuel injectors to the side it will give you more room to work with the COPs. Unplug the connector on each COP by pressing the tab in and pulling on the connector. After you're done that just twist and pull the COPs out. A couple of the COPs on the driver's side and #4 on the passenger's side are a bit hard to get at but with some patience they will come out. After you've removed the COPs take a blow gun and blow out the spark plug holes. Don't be surprised if there is rust and junk in them. Next you can actually remove the plugs. Use a combination of extensions, swivels (universal joints), sockets and ratchets to get at them. Whatever works best for you is good. On the harder ones to get at I usually use a socket with a 4" extension, then a swivel, then a long extension, then the ratchet. The plugs are way down in the hole which is why I use the extension then the swivel. The swivel makes it easier to clear the firewall. Set the gap on the new plugs to whatever it says on your emissions decal on the radiator support....usually .052-.056". Apply a small amount of anti-seize to the threads only on the spark plug. You can use a piece of vacuum hose or fuel hose over the end of the plug to get it started in the hole. Carefully start the plugs in their holes. If you can't get them most of the way in by hand with the hose take a look and see why not. Cross threaded plug threads are no fun! The plugs are to be tightened to 13 lb-ft. which is just hand tight with a short ratchet. Don't over tighten them! The threads in the aluminum heads have enough problems as it is. After that just put everything back together in reverse order. Apply some dielectric grease to the plug boots as well to help seal them. I've done enough of these that I can replace the plugs in approximately 45 minutes but don't be surprised if the first time you do it takes a few hours. . (MORE)
As needed CheckSpark can quickly determine the health of your plugs and wires . You can get it on e-bay $24.95
just remove the ignition coil packs located on top backside of Eng use a 7/32 socket and small ratchet now with that out your way you can reach back there with know problem and remove them with your standard spark plug socket, ratchet,extension,and swivel. Just did my 2001 Montana with No problem .p…eace of cake . (MORE)
you can find the spark plugs on both the front and back of the engine. it is right near the air intake manifold. you have to take of the cover on the front of the motor. you then simply pop of the wires, take out the old ones. and screw the new ones back in. remember to gap them if necessary. you wi…ll need a 5/8s drive to do this job. plus a few minor sockets for the cover (MORE)
Yes, but you will have to do some trimming inside the engine bay as the '02 lights go farther back into the vehicle than the originals did. More info at http://newcougar.org/
This question has been answered in length previously. Try a different year and click on the recommended answers.
It should with minimal problems fit. There were some slight changes to the Duratec engine in the cougar between the '00 and '01 model years, including a better, and easier to replace alternator. but a straight swap shouldn't be too hard. Another thing you can do is a swap from a Ford Contour or Merc…ury Mystique. or if you want some more power and are willing to go through some trouble to get it working right, the 3.0 liter duratec out of the sable, taurus, and escape vehicles of similar years provides a nearly drop in fit with substantially increased power. (MORE)
repalce one at time with new one until all replace to make the wire are back in the right place
The procedure for changing spark plugs on an '02 Sable (DOHC 3.0L) is pretty much the same as on any other vehicle once you take off the plastic drain/airvent piece into which the windshield wiper arms go at the bottom base of the windshield just above the firewall. This provides enough hand room to… get to the back plugs and the Coil. You may need to remove the coil and place it aside for best results. You will need to replace each wire one at a time (connect one side in the head the other on the coil) so you'll need the coil out of the way, but near enough to run the wiring. Recommend replacing the coil too if the spare cash is available as you don't want to have to get to that area again for a while and the life of a coil is probably close to that of the plugs anyway (as was mine - coil costs around $125). Some tips: get some never seize for the threads on the new plugs and use sparingly don't get it on other surfaces of plug (if you do wipe clean); use a small rubber tubing piece (3/8 dia) to help get new plugs started threading - it should be wide enough to fit snug around the metal contact on the top of the plug and long enough to fit down into the plug port - always make sure threads are started before using a wrench!; a torque wrench is advised to tighten (according to Haynes use 7-14 ft lbs); always use a spark plug socket (there is usually a little rubber padding inside to protect the porcelain insulator and to hold the plug in place and avoid cross-threading)- a long extension is necessary and can serve to help hand tighten without the ratchet handle; Replace the wires when replacing the plugs -removing the wires by pulling on the boot and twisting it loose - never pull the wire. Most of these tips are in the procedures for spark plug replacement in the Haynes Ford Taurus & Mercury Sable Repair Manual [2005, Haynes Publishing: Newbury Park California](the cost is around $20). NOTE: The manual doesn't show the removal of the plastic windshield wiper vent piece but the rest of the info is accurate. Actually the dealer said they remove the plenum rather than the plastic vent piece but that looks like more problem then it's worth. But either way works. (MORE)
Check the Vehicle Emissions Control Information ( VECI ) decallocated in the front of your engine compartment ( it will show what type of sparkplugs to use and the spark plug gap )
Front 3 are easy. Here's for the back 3 You have to remove the upper intake manifold. Here are your instructions . Disconnect the battery ground cable. . Remove the air cleaner assembly and the air cleaner outlet tube. . Remove the pin-type retainers and the snow shield. 4.Disconnect the acc…elerator cable, speed control actuator cable and the throttle return spring from the throttle body 5.Remove the bolts, then position the accelerator cable bracket aside 6.Disconnect the hoses. . Disconnect the vacuum hose. . Disconnect the evaporative emissions (EVAP) return tube 7.Disconnect the idle air control (IAC) valve and the throttle position (TP) sensor electrical connectors 8.Disconnect the engine wiring harness from the intake manifold support bracket 9.Remove the upper intake manifold support bracket 10.Disconnect the positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) tube from the upper intake manifold 11.Loosen the nut and disconnect the exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) tube from the EGR valve 12.Disconnect the vacuum hose from the EGR valve 13.Disconnect the vacuum regulator solenoid vacuum and electrical connections. Disconnect the vacuum hose from the upper intake manifold 14.Disconnect the wire harness retaining clip 15.Disconnect the spark plug holder and the radio interference capacitor electrical connector 16.Remove the bolts and the upper intake manifold . (MORE)
( .054 inch ) for the 3.8 liter V6 and the 5.0 liter V8 according to ford parts . com