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The temperature blend door actuator is the component that moves a flapper type door inside the dash that adjusts the amount of cold outside air that is mixed in with air that passes over the heater core.
It is a common issue with Windstars to fail, but is also a very straight-forward, do-it-yourself repair.
I priced this job at a dealer and it came in for around $300!
This is a really simple repair, a great choice for the do-it-yourselfer.
Here are the steps/procedures for doing this repair yourself in about 30 minutes:
- Tools to do the job:
- Ford radio removal tools
- 5/16 nut-driver
- Small hands or band-aids
- Ford radio removal tools
- Remove the radio -
- Insert the U-shaped 'handles' into the vertical pair of holes on each side of the front of the radio until you feel it hit an indent / click .
- With both tools inserted, push outward on the top of the tools while pulling the radio out & away from the dash.
- Disconnect the 2 wire harness connectors & the antenna.
- Insert the U-shaped 'handles' into the vertical pair of holes on each side of the front of the radio until you feel it hit an indent / click .
- (Optional) Remove A/C & Radio control dash panel
- Removing the A/C & Radio control dash panel gives you additional access to the actuator to help with removal and installation. This is not a difficult option.
- Loosen and remove two screws revealed just above radio when radio was removed.
- Loosen and remove two screws inside (one on each side) the drink holder & ash tray drawer.
- Gently pull the loosened section of the dash panel forward.
- Do not remove connectors for A/C control panel. You'll need the A/C control panel active to align the driver post of the actuator with the blend door drive hole.
- You might want a helper to hold the panel off to the right while you work.
- Reassembly is exactly reverse.
- Remove / replace the blend door actuator -
- Looking in through the radio opening, locate the actuator module - a white plastic unit about the size of a pack of cigarettes.
- Use the nut-driver to remove the three 5/16ths mounting screws.
- Disconnect the wiring harness located on the side
- Reverse steps to re-install
- In order to line up the shaft I had to crank the car and move the temp selector. Note: You do not have to turn on the A/C system for the temp selector to control the actuator, but you must have the actuator control cable re-connected.
- Looking in through the radio opening, locate the actuator module - a white plastic unit about the size of a pack of cigarettes.
- Reassemble the dash panel.
- Reinstall the radio (watch that no cables bind during the reinstallation.
- What the actuator is / does:
- Inside this unit is a circuit board, motor and small plastic round gears. The gears then rotate the actuator, which in turn opens and closes the damper allowing the air to pass through the heater core.
- What happens is some of the little teeth break off creating a gap on the gear wheel. This gap prevents the gears from driving the actuator shaft.
- The unit may be known as a heater damper module by the dealer. Should cost around $60-$75. (One reader acquired the actuator for $34 from O'Reilly.)
- This unit was purchased from Advanced Auto for $ 45 and the flat rate is .4 hours. I did mine in around thirty minutes with the hardest part being getting the radio out ( it seemed stuck ).
Removing stuck radio
Additional information added 10-Jan-2009 by Elliott Wolin:
The instructions above worked well for me except that the radio was stuck; the removal tool did not work on the left side. The problem was that the internal metal locking tabs on the left side of the radio partially broke. I had to remove the panels below the steering column and reach in and depress what was left of the locking tab mechanism from the left side with a shorty flat-head screwdriver. Then I inserted a thin rod into the hole in the front of the radio to keep the depressed tab in place, first the top one, then the bottom. This was not particularly easy.
I have a 1999 Windstar and took out the radio and it was right behind it, it is simple to do. If you can turn on the heater but only cold air comes out you should check the blend door. It controls the door to switch from cold air to hot. It sits directly behind the heater/AC controls. It is white square plastic piece (approx 3in x 5in half inch thick and has a plastic screw rod that attaches to the heater/AC controls and they strip out. Hope this helps.
This is an easy repair and most anyone with any sense of mechanics can accomplish it in less than an hour. Part is cheap at autoZone, and is not difficult at all. Pay attention to the placement of the temp control switches as they will make a difference in lining up the right place to install. little White Box
There is a small electric motor located under the dash about center. It cost about $40.00 It is sort of a flat rectangle shape with a set of wire's that plug into the side. The gear in side the motor is plastic and strips out causing a door inside the air duct to open about half way then fall back closed, it sounds like someone beating a plastic drum. Turn it on while under the dash and you should be able to locate it. It drove me crazy for a week!!!
2002 Windstar Sport
I was getting a loud knocking on cold and a light and sometimes no knock on hot, but no heat was coming out. The above fix was right on, I used a cut and bent coat hanger in place of the proper tool to remove radio, and the dash trim had to come off as the radio bracket impedes the lower bolts on actuator. I unclipped wire retainers for heater/AC controls from radio bracket and the dash panel will almost sit on floor. My nut driver would not grab top bolt, instead I needed my u-joint and ratchet. Before completely removing actuator, rotate it manually to see if the blend door opens and closes (as opposed to being broken which is a much costlier fix) Total time for me was 45 minutes and a scraped knuckle.
that noise you are hearing is the blender motor, It is located behind the radio
dealer item only, about 160.00. It makes your blower go from defrost to floor
kind of hard to get to, there are three bolts that hold it on
The whole thing took about two hours. It is a very easy repair and I definitely would do it myself if I were you. The part number is: XF2Z19E616FB
I think it cost me $55 with tax and they had it in stock.
If you have a 1999 or newer then I think the layout is the same as mine.
The first thing you need to do is remove the stereo. You will need a special Ford tool for this. You can buy them at the dealership, WalMart or any auto parts store for around $5. These are a couple of 'U' Shaped pieces of metal that slide into the stereo holes. It will snap into place and you push them to the outside and slide the stereo out. Real easy. Now unplug the antenna and other cables and put the stereo somewhere.
Now you will need a socket set. I don't remember the size but it is pretty small. There are two screws at the top of the HVAC control panel. You should be able to see them after you remove the stereo. There are two more screws at the bottom of the HVAC control panel. I think you have to slide out the cup holder to get to them.
Once all of the screws are out you should be able to slid the HVAC control panel out. There are a bunch of wires and vacuum lines so just be gentle. If the wires are long enough, they were in mine, you should be able to slide it out and just put the whole thing off to one side. I didn't have to disconnect anything. But you can if you want.
Now you should be able to see the black plastic duct work. On that there will be a small off-white plastic module, like others have said it is about the size of a pack of cigarettes. That is the actuator. You will need a socket again and there are three screws. Take out the screws and the module should slide out. There is a power connector to the module, make sure you unplug it.
If you want to make sure the module is the problem then you can leave it plugged in. Turn on the car and move the blend door lever. The one that goes from hot to cold. That should move the shaft coming out of the module. If it moves one way and doesn't stop it is broken. If it doesn't move it is broken.
I think if this is your problem then you should pry open the old module, pull out the shaft and slide it into the hole on the duct. Then move the shaft back and forth to make sure that the door is not jammed before you put the new actuator in. I did this cause I didn't want to put the new one in and have it jammed and burn out the new actuator. I would advice that you use a flat-head screw driver to (gently) pry the a/c control and radio console trim loose. Just a slight bit of force at about the mid point on each side should do the trick. Also, watch out for the clips on the wiring harness inserts behind the radio. They break easily. =D (This is a Ford we're talking about)
I just wanted to add, you find actuators online for pretty cheap. Anytime you lose heat or A/C and think it is related to the climate control or an actuator motor, it is also possible that your blend door has failed, not only the actuator. It is very common with Ford Windstars. In order to access the blend doors you have to pull the dash and extract the plenum box. There is also a method popping up online where you can replace the blend door by removing the glovebox and making an incision in the plenum box. I did this when I installed a heatertreater, I have also disassembled and re-assembled the dash a number of times. The method of going through the glovebox saves a ton of labor and time, but I would not recommend attempting it without specific instructions or a mechanic that has performed this fix. See related links for more info.
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"Blend door stuck and clicks on your 2004 Ford Explorer?" FIRST BUY OEM BLEND DOOR MOTOR $57.00 + UP TOOLS NEEDED : PANEL TOOL OR FLAT BLADE SCREWDRIVER ,1/4 SOCETS 7 & 8MM … ....1/4 HANDLE...1/4 SMALL EXTENTION...1/4 RATCHET NO NEED TO REMOVE WHOLE DASHBOARD!!! REMOVE TWO7MM SCREWS FROM THE BOTTOM OF STEERING PANEL & PRY AND REMOVE PANEL. NEXT REMOVE TWO 7MM SCREWS ON BLACK PLASTIC STRIP THAT YOU SEE AFTER REMOVING STEERING PANEL....PRY THIS STRIP OF PLASTIC OUT JUST A LITTLE AND CUT IN THE MIDDLE . NEXT REMOVE TWO 7MM SCREWS FROM AROUND TOP OF INSTRUMENT PANEL (BY GAUGES ) PRY PANEL STARTING FROM AROUND VENT ON LEFT BY DRIVERS DOOR ""THIS PANEL WILL STAY IN PLACE LOOSE... NO NEED TO REMOVE!"" NEXT YOU WILL SEE 0NE 7MM SCREW BY GEAR SELECTOR AREA.. BEHIND THE LOOSE PANEL REMOVE THIS SCREW.. ALSO IN SAME AREA BUT LOWER THERE IS ONE 7MM SCREW THAT NEEDS TO BE REMOVED THAT HOLDS LOWER DASH PAD ITS FOUND BEHIND LOWER CORNER OF DASH PAD.( LOWER DASH PAD GAS PEDAL AREA ) "DON'T"!!! REMOVE THE FOUR 10MM BOLTS!!!! IN SAME AREA NEXT REMOVE RADIO /AC CONTROL TRIM WITH THIN SCREW DRIVER OR PANEL TOOL IT HELD IN BY SIX CLIPS...NO NEED TO DISCONNET ANYTHING IT WILL STAY THERE HANGING!! NEXT REMOVE TWO CENTER CONSOLE LOWER LARGE PLASTIC CLIPS BY FLOOR MATS. NEXT UNDER SQUARE BLACK RUBBER AT CENTER CONSOLE REMOVE ONE SILVER SCREW. MOVE SEATS FOWARD AND REMOVE TWO 8MM SCREWS FROM SIDES OF CENTER CONSOLE FROM BACK SEAT. PRY CUP PANEL SECTION THAT WAS HELD DOWN BY SILVER SCREW ...PRY UP TOP HALF OF CONSOLE STARTING FROM SECTION WHERE ARMREST DOOR IS.. DISCONNECT LIGHTER PLUG AND REMOVE PANEL . NOW YOU WILL SEE SIX SCREWS STARTING FROM BELOW RADIO TRIM WORKING BACK TO ARMREST DOOR .REMOVE ALL SIX..THESE HOLD THE BOTTOM PORTION OF THE CONSOLE ALSO DISCONNET ONE BLACK PLUG AND PULL ALL THE WIRES CLIPPED DOWN...PULL BOTTOM PORTION OF CONSOLE TO BACK SEAT. PULL LOWER DASH PAD GIVE A NICE TUG.. IT SHOULD MOVE OUT A LITTLE ..DID YOU REMEMBER ONE SCREW BEHIND CORNER DASH..!.STARTING FROM AREA BY GAS PEDAL LOOK UP IN THIS AREA YOU WILL HAVE ENOUGH ROOM TO GET A LONG EXTENTION WITH AN 8MM SOCKET TO REMOVE 3 SCREWS HOLDING MOTOR TO BLACK PLASTIC SECTION.. REMOVE SCREWS DISCONNECT SMALL BLACK PLUG AND PULL MOTOR FROM SOCKET GOING TOWARD DRIVERS DOOR DIRECTION. ALIGN NEW MOTOR SHAFT WITH SOCKET TIP.......IF NEED BE..... YOU COULD PLUG MOTOR HARNESS INTO NEW MOTOR THEN TURN IGNITION ON AND MOVE HEATER/AC CONTROLS TO GET THE SHAFT LINED UP..DONT MOVE ANY OTHER WAY!!!!!! NOW PUT SHAFT INTO SOCKET MAKE SURE YOU CONNECTED THE PLUG IF YOU HAVEN'T ALREADY!! INSTALL 8MM SCREWS AND TRY IT OUT YOU SHOULD HAVE HEAT NOW NOW INSTALL EVERTHING BACK IN REVERSE ORDER TOTAL TIME 45 MINUTES YOU JUST SAVED $350-$500 IN DEALER PRICES!!! DEALER 2.5 HOUR JOB! PLUS PART
Repair would be to replace and I have no direct knowledge of the 99 model but my 2001 wasn't so hard and I would guess that the 99 will be a similar replacement. * Remove t…he door panel, on the 2001 it's 2 screws located on the inside door handle, 2 on the bottom and one at the top near the mirror. * With that removed you take off the foam panel and expose the inside of the door. * The lock actuators are easy to find, they are attached to the lock rod. There is one electrical connector on it that is taken off by lifting the lock clip using a slot screwdriver then just pull the connector out. * The actuator itself is a bit odd to get out. To look at the new one it seemed to me that it would click in from the top but after doing the first one I saw that it actually SLIDES in from the direction of the outside of the door. I found a very thin narrow slit located where the striker hits the lock on the outside door jam and this goes directly to the side of the actuator. I fashioned a tool from a narrow putty knife then pushed it into the slit and then pushed onto the actuator releasing the little friction clip that you can see on the new actuator. You then have to push and push this whole thing towards the outside wall of the door which doesn't go too easily. On my passenger side i resorted to a long slot screwdriver to use as a lever to help slide the thing forward because it didn't want to budge. The good thing though is that the new ones slide right into place easily. * Another thing, the pin on the actuator that moves the lock-rod just sits inside the lock-rod, there is no mechanical attachment and it fairly loose so no need to worry about that part of it. ---- Another Procedure Write-up # Remove the retainer screw from the door handle cover and remove # Remove the screw from the bottom left corner of the door panel # Pull the door panel away from the door, starting at the bottom (may need to start with door half open then close fully to remove). Lift up and off the door # Peel back the door insulation by working gently at edges # Remove 3 black screws from the face of the door latch mechanism # Disconnect the controller arm at the top of the door latch mechanism that connects to the outside door handle. The plastic connector will push up from the metal arm after the locking tabs are pushed in # Open the door half way and remove the 3 screws from the side of the door around the door latch # The door latch mechanism is now able to be removed out from the inside of the door. The black wire cables may need to be removed from some of the retaining clamps # The lock actuator can be removed. The actuator body will twist out of the spring clamp. Then the bar at the end of the actuator can be removed by turning Another Procedure Write-up For a 2001 SEL, which likely applies to all 1999-2003 models: Some of the other procedures here attempt to not have to remove the latch & lock assembly. I found it immensely easier to get the assembly loosened to the point where I could see the backside where the actuator slides into the assembly. The adds a couple of extra steps, but, it was less frustrating than trying to work blind in the corner of the inside of the door. Tools needed:7mm or 9/32 socket with 6" extension11mm socketSmall to medium prying tools. I use a $3 set of nylon ones from Harbor FreightRazor blade / knife T30 star fastener bit - for the door latch to door fastenersMagnetic tray to help avoid losing parts & screwsFlashlight if your eyes are 2 days past "middle-age" Remove two (2) 7mm screws at the bottom corners of the door panelRemove two (2) 7mm screws just below the pull-handle - actually they just stayed in the deep access holes and didn't come outRemove the black triangle cover at the top front corner NOTE: there is a friction-clip near the top of the triangle. Pry/pull at the top to release and then lift up & away. Don't pry at the bottom like I did, or you'll just break-off the internal clip. No real harm as the cover is pretty sturdy even without it Remove the now-visible 7mm screw from the top front corner of the panelRemove the clip-in cover behind the door handle NOTE: the friction-clip is at the front of the cover. Pry it up a bit and pull the cover towards the front of the door to clear the other hooks The panel will now lift-up and away from the door. There are NO friction-clips so don't waste your time prying the panel away, just liftRelease two (2) wiring connectors at the topside of the panel - push-in clips to release the connectorOptional: If your door has the courtesy light, turn the light socket counter-clockwise to release from the panel. Whew! The door panel is now free of the door The foam cover is lightly glued to the door - gently pull it away. The razor blade/knife will help you keep from tearing the material Inside the door There are 2 wiring connectors, only 1 of which goes to the door lock. I released the bottom connector earlier-on, and the other one was easier to release after the assembly is loose Remove three (3) 11mm nuts that hold the exterior door handle coverTry and wriggle the door handle to slide it off the top of the connector rod. There's a 90 degree turn to get through, but it should slide & wriggle past it and off the rod Release the inside door handle cable from the nylon holder-clip. Just provides more wriggle-roomRemove the three (3) T30 mounting screws from the door latch on the end of the door With the entire assembly loose inside the door, you should be able to turn and wriggle it around the internal window support and get it out to the largest opening in the door to work on it NOTE: the interior door handle cable, exterior door handle connector rod, doorlock manual operation rod and maybe even the second wire connector are still hooked onto the assembly - but there's enough play to get the assembly out to the opening for clear access The actuator itself slides on/off the assembly from the outside side of the door. Take note of the retainer-clip on the new one, and then spot it on the old one - press it in and push / slide the actuator off the assembly Overall, not a bad job and I wouldn't hesitate to do the next one. Almost forgot to tell you where I bought my part. Autozone wanted $70-100, and one of the local salvage yards priced a used one at $30. I bought a brand new one from RockAuto.com for $32 plus $3 shipping. Be sure to review all the various procedure write-ups in this WikiAnswer and you'll find it pretty easy to stop having to reach across the seats to unlock the darned door for your wife! One last thing: if this write-up helps you out, please hit the Contributor Trust & Question Popularity links below - I appreciate it and good luck! ---- I just replaced my drivers door actuator - it takes some time and patience. I would suggest that you go to a wrecker and get some "practice". Much more cost effective as well! I have a pull-a-part wrecker with a good selection of Windstars. Door panel off - take it easy on the power accessory/speaker harnesses. Have a good look at the lock configuration - connections from inside handle, outside handle, lock and actuator piston. Start removing clips and wires. You may have to unscrew exterior handle/molding to get some give on the interior - you will be working through cutouts in the door. Good idea to take a quick photo before you start. Good luck..... Answer ...from what i can find in my owners manual, check fuse # 37, this is the fuse for the power door locks Answer There could be one of the switches gone bad.... happened to me, the switch by the back door was fried and none of the other ones would work.
There is a fix for broken blend doors being marketed. It avoids having to remove much of the dashboard and disconnecting the a/c system. I haven't done it, but the concept… looks good - and there are a number of videos showing how their repair works. heatertreater.net Answer The very common problem of a failed blend door actuator is extensively covered in the "Related Question" below. There is a blend door repair method at the Automotive Forums Windstar section. The heater core has to come out and some cutting of the 'plenum' around the door. The thread I've linked below includes a number of photos and heating/cooling diagrams. TIP: "Right-click, save" the images to be able to get nice clear printouts of them. The thread is a little short on the step 1, step 2, type detail, but will continue searching for other threads that may have it. An excellent start, and certainly helps you get an idea of exactly what you're dealing with. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- History and Root Cause of Blend Door Failures On earlier automobiles there was generally a slide lever on the HVAC control panel(remember?). This slide lever was connected by a cable to the blend door and you had the control to slide the lever to full heat, full AC, or anything in between. Â In the 90's most automobile manufacturers moved from manual blend door control to mechanized computer control. Generically, the HVAC system operates by providing air flow that can be directed through the AC evaporator and the Heater Core. The AC evaporator is cooled by the engine driven compressor and a flow of refrigerant, and the Heater Core is heated by a flow of hot radiator fluid through the core. The air flow is usually directed through the evaporator core and to the blend door where the air can be directed down two different paths to the vent system. One path goes directly to the vents, and the other path is directed through the heater core. For AC, the compressor is on and air is directed by the blend door directly into the vent system. For heat, the compressor is off and air is diverted through the heater core. These are the two extremes, and the system can split the amount of air flowing down the two paths and control on/off of the compressor to achieve any desired temperature between the two extremes. When the blend door fails, control over which path the air flow takes is lost and dependent on the design of the system and where the broken door falls, you will lose heat, AC, or both. When the manufacturers went to electronic control, different variations of a stepper motor were deployed to provide fine control over the position of the blend door. Some have variable resistance sensors built into the motor, or time measurements to gauge how long to run the motor to get to a desired position, or counting commutator clicks. Independent of the method used for fine control, the methodology requires that the system "knows" the extents of movement. The system has to measure where the door stops against the two end points of movement. The computer does this by driving the motor to a stall point and measuring a voltage surge or lack of change in the position monitor input. The DC motors are geared to move slowly with a great deal of force. The root cause of most blend door problems is the over-stress of this calibration process, and the plastic doors break over time like bending a coat hanger back and forth. The computer system generally goes through this calibration routine every 20 times that the car is started. Time-to-failure is not a traditional mileage, age, or driving habit function, but just how many times the car is started. A pizza delivery guy that stops the car for each delivery will fail much faster than someone commuting to work once a day. Automobiles were not built with this failure mechanism in mind and generally the process of replacing the blend door is involved and expensive. The usual dealer fix is to remove the steering column, pull the dash panel, evacuate and disconnect the AC system, drain and disconnect the radiator, and then remove the HVAC plenum(heater box). Once the box is out, it's fairly simple to open it and replace the cheap plastic door, and then put the whole thing back together hoping you don't screw up something else. HeaterTreater TM has developed processes for replacing the blend door without having to remove the dash and heater box. Cuts are made into the box in non visible areas with a Dremel tool, and the blend door is replaced with precision machined metal components. The process results in an easy, cheap fix and replacement components that are designed to outlast the automobile(much stronger than OEM plastic). To date, thousands of our HeaterTreater rm repair kits have been installed in multiple different models with 100% installation success and correct operation. We are intent on maintaining superior customer service and would appreciate your consideration of our products. Actually removing the temperature blend door is a very involved procedure. Reference a repair manual: Library (free)Buy one - about $18On-line resources - Autozone.com has a FREE and awesome online repair guide
if a pen or pencil fell down the defrost, this could be it... and you'll have to dismantle the whole thing to reach it... Or you can do this: remove the center cou…nsel once that is out of the way remove the push/pull plastic guard and you should see a floor vent, move the screws holding the floor vent, pull out the floor vent and you should see a motor on your right passenger area with a white circle, its held on by 3 screws remove the screws and replace
The factory method requires removal of the dash and heater box to replace the plastic door with another plastic door. HeaterTreater has a new product to repair the 02-…08 Explorer without removing the dash, and replacing the door with metal that will outlast the Explorer. Check HeaterTreater.net.
How do you replace the blend door actuator on a 1999 - 2003 Ford Windstar - what do I remove to get to it?
What the actuator is / does: Inside this unit is a circuit board, motor and small plastic round gears. The gears then rotate the actuator, which in turn opens and closes …the damper allowing the air to pass through the heater core.What happens is some of the little teeth break off creating a gap on the gear wheel. This gap prevents the gears from driving the actuator shaft. Additional Notes: The unit may be known as a heater damper module by the dealer. Should cost around $60-$75.This unit was purchased from Advanced Auto for $ 45 and the flat rate is .4 hours. I did mine in around thirty minutes with the hardest part being getting the radio out ( it seemed stuck ). In order to line up the shaft I had to crank the car and move the temp selector. I priced this job at a dealer and it came in for around $300! Here are the steps/procedures for doing this repair yourself in about 30 minutes: Tools to do the job: Ford radio removal tools 5/16 nut-driver Flashlight Small hands or band-aids Remove the radio - Insert the U-shaped 'handles' into the vertical pair of holes on each side of the front of the radio until you feel it hit an indent / click . With both tools inserted, push outward on the top of the tools while pulling the radio out & away from the dash. Disconnect the 2 wire harness connectors & the antenna. Remove / replace the blend door actuator - Looking in through the radio opening, locate the actuator module - a white plastic unit about the size of a pack of cigarettes. Use the nut-driver to remove the three 5/16ths mounting screws. Disconnect the wiring harness located on the side Reverse steps to re-install Located directly behind the radio, the blend-door actuator is a small plastic box, roughly 3" x 4" X ¾" in size, and quite often is white. With the radio out, the replacement procedure is very straight forward using a 5/16th nutdriver tool. This is a really simple repair, a great choice for the do-it-yourselfer. Here are the steps/procedures for doing this repair yourself in about 30 minutes: * Tools to do the job: ** Ford radio removal tools ** 5/16 nut-driver ** Flashlight ** Small hands or band-aids * Remove the radio - ** Insert the U-shaped 'handles' into the vertical pair of holes on each side of the front of the radio until you feel it hit an indent / click . ** With both tools inserted, push outward on the top of the tools while pulling the radio out & away from the dash. ** Disconnect the 2 wire harness connectors & the antenna. * (Optional) Remove A/C & Radio control dash panel * Removing the A/C & Radio control dash panel gives you additional access to the actuator to help with removal and installation. This is not a difficult option.* Loosen and remove two screws revealed just above radio when radio was removed. * Loosen and remove two screws inside (one on each side) the drink holder & ash tray drawer.* Gently pull the loosened section of the dash panel forward.* Do not remove connectors for A/C control panel. You'll need the A/C control panel active to align the driver post of the actuator with the blend door drive hole.* You might want a helper to hold the panel off to the right while you work. * Reassembly is exactly reverse. * Remove / replace the blend door actuator - ** Looking in through the radio opening, locate the actuator module - a white plastic unit about the size of a pack of cigarettes. ** Use the nut-driver to remove the three 5/16ths mounting screws. ** Disconnect the wiring harness located on the side ** Reverse steps to re-install ** In order to line up the shaft I had to crank the car and move the temp selector. Note: You do not have to turn on the A/C system for the temp selector to control the actuator, but you must have the actuator control cable re-connected. * Reassemble the dash panel. * Reinstall the radio (watch that no cables bind during the reinstallation. * What the actuator is / does: * Inside this unit is a circuit board, motor and small plastic round gears. The gears then rotate the actuator, which in turn opens and closes the damper allowing the air to pass through the heater core.* What happens is some of the little teeth break off creating a gap on the gear wheel. This gap prevents the gears from driving the actuator shaft. * The unit may be known as a heater damper module by the dealer. Should cost around $60-$75. (One reader acquired the actuator for $34 from O'Reilly.) This unit was purchased from Advanced Auto for $ 45 and the flat rate is .4 hours. I did mine in around thirty minutes with the hardest part being getting the radio out ( it seemed stuck ).
The blend door is vacuum controlled. Any vacuum leak in the engine system can cause the door to not function properly. Check this system first. The door could be physicall…y sticking but a vacuum leak is a more common problem.
Something falling into the ductwork could have jammed the blend door - causing the very very small plastic gears inside the actuator to break off some teeth. Another reason …could be these units are just under-engineered for a long life and break easily with normal usage. See "Related Questions" for in-depth discussion on replacing actuator motor
Just give info to the auto parts store. They should know what it is. If not the dealer will know.
Cost of labor repairing blend door actuator or how do you repair it yourself on a 2004 Mercury Mountaineer?
To DIY you're going to have to pull the dash. If you're going to take it to shop, be prepared to pay for 6+ hours of labor, quite expensive. No NO NO do not pull the dash. O…n my 1998 it was outside the blend box. It's bad because of bad soldering in the motor circuit board, easy fix once you pull it. Yes the shops want 6hrs labor. My blend door shaft broke and I had to replace it. I found the bad soldering problem after fixing the door. Blenddoor.com has a fix for that door problem...........
I was told by a chevy service manager that it would cost in the neighborhood of $300.
Pictures are not able to be presented here in WikiAnswers. The best that can be done is to do a really good job describing a part or procedure, and provides links to… sources of pictures. In the case of the temperature blend door actuator motor - it is well described in all the questions that deal with replacing it (there are at least 4 heavily populated questions that do that). There may even be links provided in any one of those relevant questions. But the reader has to help out by using them... Other sources of pictures of this part would be Autozone.com AdvanceAuto.com, Oreillyauto.com - most any auto parts chain that has a website will have pictures. In the meantime, for comprehensive coverage of this very easy repair, refer to the numerous "Related Questions" below... No pictures / diagrams here on WA, but lots of helpful information - See "Related Questions" below for everything you need to know about changing a Windstar temperature blend door actuator motor.
Remove the actuator and watch it operate when adjusting the temperature control. If it moves only in one direction it's broken. And obviously, if it doesn't move at …all, it's broken. With the actuator out, you can insert a small screwdriver into the blend door and operate it manually. Confirm it is moving smoothly end-to-end and not binding. See "Related Questions" below for more
The dashboard *switch* - slide control itself?? Never heard of one of those going bad, but... Start with the dash trim piece - 2 7mm screws at the bottom - alongside… the ashtray/cup-holder pull out. The trim piece then unsnaps from the dash. Expect a couple more screws holding the heater controls and wire connection or 2. Pretty straight-forward. If by chance you really are looking how to replace the temperature blend door actuator, that is well covered by numerous contributors in the "Related Questions" below.
Thx everyone for the detailed posts on how to change out this heat accuator on my 01 windstar...i bought the din tool from walmart for five bucks and had a hard time taking ou…t my radio even with the tool ....i was putting it in too far....it should only go in 1-1/4 b4 u gently push em away from each other and pull out ..it takes some finess and time ...i took many breaks on this and came back to it later till i got it..that was the hardest part of the job.... then i took out the radio and disconnected it and set it aside...dropped down the glovebox..took off the molding along with the climate control panel ,two bolts at the top used 7mm socket....the accuator is held with three 1 inch screws that are 8mm ...i also disconnected some of the plugs on the climate control panel for easier access....i used two exentions in conjuction with each other to make the job easy...the accuator was 35.99 at autozone..and they loaned me all the tools to do the job....the job took me two and a half hours..i also used a small flashlight for this job...and i couldn't have done it wthout the info on this site thx again everyone....
Before replacing the thermostat or any other component of the Windstar's HVAC system, be sure to check your blend door for functionality FIRST. The most common issue with heat… or A/C in the late model Ford windstar is a broken blend door. A broken blend door actuator is almost as common as a broken blend door itself. Typically, the fix requires disassembling the entire dash and replacing the whole plenum box, which can be a costly repair.
The Blend Door actuator on the Ford Windstar can be found by removing the glovebox. A broken blend door actuator is almost as common as a broken blend door itself. Typically, …the fix requires disassembling the entire dash and replacing the whole plenum box, which can be a costly repair. Linked here is a video from www.heatertreater.net demonstrating how to access components of the plenum box for repair without disassembling the entire dash. heatertreater.net/Windstar%20Video.html This details the best DIY option on how to replace a broken blend door or actuator.