Do you need to replace the wheel bearing when replacing brake discs on a mark 4 golf gti?
no need to replace wheel bearing unless the wheel bearing is worn out
Answer . Buy the same rated fuse pull out the broken fuse and replace with new fuse job done. The fuse box is under the drivers side of the dash.. (Don't forget the fuses …under the hood!!)
There are two outer bolts that have to be removed. They actually fit through a bracket and screw into another bolt head on the inside of the bracket. Use a 13mm wrench on the …outside and a 15mm to hold the inside while removing the outer bolts. The assembly may be tight gripping the disc. Since the only way to get the caliper piston to retract is to screw it CLOCKWISE , do not try to pry the old pad away from the disc with any tool - it just won't work. Use a wooden block to tap the entire caliper housing away from the disc - it will come away eventually. Remove the old pads. To retract the piston back into the caliper housing, you will need a specialised VW brake tool (a cube tool found at any local automotive parts store with small buttons at opposite corners) and a 3/8" socket wrench with a 6" extension. If you screwed up, you may need three other items to retract the piston: 1. a piston retracting tool that braces the piston and simply forces it in as you turn the screw knob; 2. a thin, flat, smooth piece of metal like a putty knife; 3. an expandable vice-grip wrench. If you look at the Piston head, you'll notice at least two specific shaped grooves on the outer edge opposite each other; find a matching pair of buttons on the cube tool that fits into the grooves for turning - somewhat like a screwdriver. Since none of the buttons would fit my piston as the widest pair still did not fit flat, I had to use the one with four buttons and using a hacksaw, cut off one opposing pair of buttons. The remaining two fit perfectly. Now the rest is simple. Using the cube tool and your socket wrench with extension, try to turn the piston back up into the caliper housing by TURNING CLOCKWISE while at the same time apply some pressure as you turn the wrench. This will under normal circumstances, gradually retract the piston. DO NOT TURN THE TOOL AND THEREFORE THE PISTON TO THE LEFT IN A COUNTER-CLOCKWISE MOTION OR YOU WILL HAVE TO GO TO THE NEXT STEP. Insert the new pads and use the new bolts provided to reattach the caliper to the bracket. Use the new bolts as they have a locking compound between the threads. If by some stroke of misfortune, you are now researching how to get the piston back in - after you happily decided to turn the piston COUNTER-CLOCKWISE in a vain attempt to get the piston back into the housing, here is what you should do: Place the aforementioned piston retractor in the caliper and turn the knob until the pad almost touches the piston head. Place the putty knife between the piston head and retractor pad, turn the knob to tighten the tool "just so". (this is to maintain a firm pressure against the piston while at the same time trying to get it to move back in). Use the expanding wrench to grip the outer metal of the piston TAKING CARE NOT TO DAMAGE THE RUBBER BOOT then turn the piston clockwise a few 1/4-turns. Hopefully you will notice that the entire thing becomes loose and you will then have to tighten the retractor again by turning the knob JUST ENOUGH TO DRAW IT TIGHT AGAIN. Repeat this process a few times until you find that the piston has "caught" inside and has retracted a bit. You can now use the cube tool to completely turn it all the way in. NOTE: the reason that I used the putty knife was because the expander pad bit into and jammed against the bare softer metal of the piston head. The putty knife created a smooth hard surface enabling the piston head to be easily turned with the wrench. I thank the previous contributor who gave me the initial instruction on the use of the cube tool. I merely detailed it and explained how to fix the piston having popped out from turning counter clockwise.
Answer . Simple. You get a BFH! ~ Big F@$%^&g Hammer and pound it out. I would suggest you take the part off the vehicle first and have a good, strong metal surface to poun…d on. This will take require a well swung hammer with plenty of room to move.
You have to buy the wheel bearing assembly.
To replace Melex golf cart brakes, you will need parts that varydepending on the model. In all cases, you will need the new brakeshoes and possibly the calipers. You can repla…ce these parts usingstandard tools including a Philips screwdriver.
The horn is located under the front bumper behind the fog lights.Slide your fingers up under the and remove the 2 clips attachingthem then replace it.
its very easy open the hood and remove the carpet from the light there will be 2 bolts the whole light unit will come out and then replace the bulb .
Yes! These pin bearings are surrounded by high temp grease, the grease is kept where it should be by rubber seals. Once these seals are worn out, and cracked, or broken comple…tely, the grease finds its way away from the bearings, and then you have metal on metal contact. There are four parts to a bearing system on each wheel; the inner bearing, outter bearing, and racers for both. the bearings run along the racers, and without the proper amount, and quality grease, these pin bearings with soon break the racer/lose bearing from retainer/lock up/or just simply over heat and STOP the wheel from turning. so, replace those bearings, and get NEW high temp bearing grease and chock it FULL. this will prevent any future problems.
you will hear a rumbling or wining as you drive, especially at speed
The following information relates to mk2 and mk3 Golfs but should be applicable to most VAG cars fitted with rear disc brakes. . Remove the road wheel. . Remove the brake …pads from the caliper. . Remove the caliper mounting bolts. . Move the caliper out of the way, ensuring the caliper doesn't put any strain on the flexible brake hose. . Remove the Allen-key headed bolts securing the brake caliper carrier and then remove the carrier. Application of heat and use of a small Stilson wrench may be necessary to loosen stubborn carrier bolts. Replace the bolts if the Allen heads are worn or corroded. . Remove the metal cap from the centre of the disc. . Remove the split pin, locking ring, nut and thrust washer from the stub axle. . Remove disc from the stub axle. . At this point you may need to extract the old wheel bearings from the old discs or fit new bearings, although some brake discs are supplied with new wheel bearings already fitted. Fitting a bearing is simply a case of carefully tapping out the old bearing race with a hammer, followed by tapping the new race into place. Using a socket of approximately the same size (or slightly smaller) when tapping the race can help reduce the chance of damaging the bearing race. Fitting new discs is simply a reversal of the above procedure.
You basically lift up the car, remove the rear wheels , get a portable lift that can sustain the rear axle , and remove the two screws that hold the shock absorber in place. … That's how i did mine , but i work in a garage , so i had everything i needed. I guess you should also be able to do it with the car on the ground , by simply using two hydraulic lifts, one to lift the car, and one to hold the rear axle. You need to do one wheel at a time , even if you do it on the ground or in a garage. The rear shock absorbers on the mark 4 are easy to replace, among the easiest i've ever done. The story changes drastically if you need to replace the front shock absorbers , and for that , i suggest you to have the job done at a garage you're familiar with. You could also do it yourself , but you need a lift like those you see in a garage, because you need to lift up the car, and loose a bit the sub frame to successfully remove the shocks( if you don't do that, the axle will hit the sub frame, and you won't be able to lower enough the suspension knuckle to remove it from the shock absorber).
Major vibration in the steering wheel. With the car parked and the steering wheel unlocked, go to a tire and try to shake it back and forth by grabbing on each side of the tir…e. If that tire will move back and forth, the wheel bearing is bad. Also when drivingand turning in curves, if the roaring gets louder, they are bad.
In Mercury Sable
to replace the brake pads on any car loosen the lugs abit (not all the way) then jack it up. remove the lugs all the way, pull the tire off, theres 2 Allen key bolts holding t…he caliper on take them off pull the caliper off and the pads should just fall out. to get the new pads on you have to compress the brake cylider back so the new pads will fit over the rotor use a c clamp to do this then just put it all back together.
In Brake Pads and Rotors
OK, you've got to take it step by step. Step 1 - Find yellow pages (if you have not got one, DON'T WORRY skip straight to step 2) Step 2 - Walk over to phone (note: be c…areful of any obstacles that might be in your way, i.e. doors) Step 3 - Call mechanic either by using your yellow pages, or calling your knowledegable friends at 118 118, asking for car mechanic near me PLEASE (politeness costs nothing, unlike the phone call at around 50p/min) Step 4 - Tell mechanic, you are a little boy who needs his broom broom fixed. Step 5 - Tell mechanic - 'same to you' and hang up when he makes fun of your mum. Step 6 - Call Evans Autos in North Cheam on (020) 8337 6677 and buy one of our fantastic used motors at a unbelievable price and scrap the old golf for a for a fresh car with 12 months warranty and a lifetime guarantee on pads for the life of the car.
In Audi A4
no! you need to push the pistons back into the calliper! you may need to turn them.
In VW Golf
In Auto Parts and Repairs
It's certainly a good idea. In some older vehicles you can take them apart and re-grease them easily too. Your vehicle will definitely drive smoother after doing either.