Simple question, simple answer: yes. Wiring Codes or Regulations do not like a plain mechanical connection (mounting strap to box) when use of a proper wire-to-wire connection is available.
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As always, if you are in doubt about what to do, the best advice anyone should give you is to call a licensed electrician to advise what work is needed.
If you do this work yourself, always turn off the power
at the breaker box/fuse panel BEFORE you attempt to do any work AND
always use an electrician's test meter having metal-tipped probes
(not a simple proximity voltage indicator)
to insure the circuit is, in fact, de-energized. : IF YOU ARE NOT ALREADY SURE YOU CAN DO THIS JOB
SAFELY AND COMPETENTLY
REFER THIS WORK TO QUALIFIED PROFESSIONALS.
No, just a light adaptor strap that goes diagonally across the box. They're cheap, under $1.00.
The yoke or strap is the metal fram that hold everything together and where the outlet attaches to the box.
New dryers should not need a grounding strap. The fourth green wire in the plug cable should have a lug on it and it connects to the frame of the dryer.
I'd strap it to the other finger (the one on the other side to the index finger) because those fingers usually move together anyway.
If you have unswitched supply from a light you need to route the supply through the new switch to the new light. You want to switch the black wire and just connect the white wires together with a wirenut and connect the bare ground wires together by a separate wirenut.
No, just a light adaptor strap that goes diagonally across the box. They're cheap, under $1.00.
Alternators are generally grounded through the alternator body to the engine block or head through the attaching bolts.On many cars I've owned I add a ground strap from the alternator body to the block to eliminate any chance of poor connections throught the mounting bracket.
Strap one Alternator mounting bolt to firewall Strap Two Push on connector both sides of motor mount at passengers side front tire Strap Three Transmission mounting bolt (second or third from starter) to inner fender well near battery and/or direct to negative terminal on battery.
With rubber motor mounts.
remove mounting screw from top of rear fender then remove the two mounting fasteners located on both sides of the seat. loosen strap bracket by grasping and pressing down on the seat. pull out to free left side of strap bracket . push seat to the rear to free the tongue in the front. on some bikes you now have to unsnap the seat strap under the seat then slide seat through seat strap.
sandals
The official definition of stirrup, as given by the Merriam-Webster dictionary, is: either of a pair of small light frames or rings for receiving the foot of a rider that are attached by a strap to a saddle and used to aid in mounting and as a support while riding.
1 is in the tank. The other is right next to the tank, under the mounting strap bolt.
You do not want to wear a wrist strap or be grounded when working on monitors/TVs or power supplies. Even when turned off these devices still hold a charge due to the large capacitors in them.
I generally use four pieces of "unistrut" to make a mounting bracket. I attach the unistrut to the pole using either lag screws or strap. It needs to be secure.
you must be grounded via a grounding strap, which consists of a condective strap around your wrist (contacting your skin) a resister (usually about 1 megaohm) and a connection to earth ground.
Well, the tail light housings need to be grounded. If these are mounted in the truck bed then grounding the truck bed will enable the lights to work. Current for lighting flows through one wire to the light, thru the filament and out to ground. You can test this by measuring voltage between the power wire and the truck bed. If you are grounded you should get ~12 V. Also test between the power wire and the frame. If you get ~12 V here but not against the truck bed, install a ground strap between the truck bed and the frame to establish a ground.