I just fixed my starter but its my fourth one i went through...the first three were rebuilt and junk. the one i have now is used out of a wrecked jetta and its working great. well first you unhook the battery from the car then there are three wires total that you have to take off from the starter. one can be easily unplugged and the other two are connected to a bolt on the starter. unscrew the nut from the bolt and the two wires then can be pulled off. next there are three bolts you have to take out...before you take out the bolts make sure you have something holding up the transmission (next to the oil pan under the car) when you take the bolts out it will drop a little but it wont fall out. there are two bolts undernearth the starter and one on top of the starter...the two underneath can only be accessed to by getting under the car...there might be some brackets that will have to be taken out but it can be easily figured out...i got to go to my next class now...so good luck!

It is a small black retangular box located above the fuses on the fuse panel

On a 2000 Mercury Villager :

The recommended timing belt replacement interval is ( 105,000 miles )

The Gates website ( they make timing belts etcetera ) shows it as an INTERFERENCE ENGINE , so if the timing belt breaks engine damage will occur

You remove the little bolt under the seat in the middle and then you slide the seat forward and lift at the same time. It should come off unless it is rusted in place, the you spray rust remover all over. Ron

65,000??? Now would be good but you can go a little longer. I have seen many with 80,000. After that you are pushing the limit. Don't forget to replace the water pump at the same time (and the tensioner pulley too but not mandatory)

No, Only the supply line has to be submerged in fuel.

pry off the horn cover with flathead screwdriver, and disconnect the horn wires.I then covered in tape and then closed the cover. When I need the horn I pull the steering wheel.

The one closest to the radiator.

toyota recommends that timing belts be replaced at 60,000; however, 100,000 miles is fine. Replace at 100,000 miles as preventative maintenance. 4 cylinder 2002 Camry has a timing chain which does not have to be replaced.

Every 60,000 miles, according to both corroborating online sources cited below, http://www.familycar.com/carcare/GatesFrame.htm http://autorepair.about.com/od/glossary/ss/timin-belt-inf2_7.htm However, since the 96 Celica has a non-interference engine*, a broken timing belt will not damage your engine as it would on these makes and models of Toyotas: TOYOTA

1986-95 1.5L Tercel

1981-83 2.2L Pickup

1984-87 2.4L Pickup

1982-88 2.8L Celica Cressida

1987-94 3.0L 4-Runner

http://www.rebuiltautoengines.com/toyota-celica-articles.html So unless you were having other problems, your worst case scenario is the car would just stop running and you would have to get it towed in to get the timing belt replaced. But if you're having the timing belt replaced, or if your having any kind of an oil leak, you might want to price having these items addressed because the the extra labor cost should be negligible since they would already be in there replacing the timing belt. Crankshaft Front Oil Seal

Camshaft Seal

Oil Pump Gasket/O-Ring

Oil Pump Seal

Valve Cover Gasket Spark Plug Tube Seals (have a little oil in one tube)

Oil Pan Gasket

...and possibly change the Water Pump and Thermostat ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- *If the timing belt breaks on a non-interference design, there is enough clearance between the pistons and valves to prevent damaging contact. An interference design does not have sufficient clearance between those parts and engine damage would result from a broken timing belt.

Typically between 80 and 90 degrees blud

It is tricky to change the clutch cable. There is a clip that holds it on the clutch pedal and it hooks over the clutch arm down by the bellhousing on the other end. The clutch arm is fairly easy to access and remove the cable from the engine compartment. The clutch pedal end took a little while. I had to undo the fuse box and let it hang to acces the pedal arm. The cable hooks on this end also, but has a little clip that holds it on the arm. Once the cable is unfastened from the arm, you can pull it out through the firewall. Installation went better than removal for me, a little adjusting after its in and youre all set! Good luck!