Hey krystal==This is a VERY BIG JOB. I suggest you take it to a auto trim shop. GoodluckJoe

Hey I own a 1995 Presidential, to remove the dash I know as far as the front plate that trimes out the radio and controls is mostly clips that u can pop out but first there are Philips head screws in each vent. If u look at the top of the vent(inside the vent) at the top u will find a screw. After you take those out , it's clips on the top of the dash, u get the top to pop out pull firm but with caution. Then u tip the top away lifting it up and the bottom, it lifts right out. when u go to put it back in place use tape such as electrical or masking tape. Tape over the screw hole in the inside of each vent pop the screw in the tape to help u put the screws back in. Good Luck!!!

P.S.Shift on the column in 1st, and tilt your steering wheel all the way down to finish getting it out.

Lil'Hiawatha

First, you'll need to remove the wood trim from the dash. It is held in by a series of clips, so it's just a matter of carefully popping the trim out. Once the wood trim pieces are removed, next you'll remove the vents from the black trim of the dash. Turn them all the way to one side and pull as best as you can. They will pop out (although you might need a screwdriver to wedge in behind if they don't come right out). Removing the wood trim and vents will reveal approximately 10 (don't recall the exact #) torx head screws. Remove those, and then you can remove the black dash panel (you might need to shift the car into neutral to get the panel out). Then, the radio will be exposed. Remove the two remaining screws and then the radio. The plugs clip in and can be stiff to remove. From there, connect your new radio (if it's factory, just plug it in) and then reassemble the dash.

Although after reading the answer above me, I am thinking they might be Phillips head. Either way, there are screws to remove...

I just found it somewhere on the net - My 1990 with a 2.9 holds 7 quarts - 8 quarts with no AC.

LMC truck(www.lmctruck.com). They have an online catalog, free print catalogs and downloadable catalogs. I have a 1990 Bronco II and I have been ordering parts through them for years. Good luck!

Remove - battery cable

Raise and support vehicle

Remove wiring at top of starter

Remove starter mounting bolts

Remove starter

Dana 28 twin i beam suspension and if swapped could be a Dana 35 easy way to check the difference is by counting bolts on diff. 10 is 28 and 8 is 35.

Yes, with a bit of modification. I don't have the link handy, but there's a kit that includes changed motor mounts, etc. to allow you to ram a 302 into a BroncoII. Google it.

there is aq clip whivh is located on the rod going from the door handle to the door latch just find the clip and put back in is broken like mine i made a clip and it has not broke since.

The fuse block is on the left front fender well in the engine compartment under the hood.

The ratio of oxygen to fuel affects what reactions take place, and as a result, how much energy is produced from the reaction. For example, in the presence of excess oxygen, methane burns to form carbon dioxide and water. CH4 + 2O2 > CO2 + 2H2O In limited oxygen, methane forms carbon monoxide and water. 2CH4 + 3O2 > 2CO + 4H2O In an even more limited oxygen supply, methane will form elemental carbon and water. CH4 + O2 > C + 2H2O Each reaction, though chemically similar, can yield drastically dfferent results. Let's say these reactions were taking place in an oven in your home. The first one would yield the highest amount of energy, and have no substantial negative affects. The second wouldn't cook your food as fast, and might kill you and your family. The last would contaminate the fuel lines in your oven with carbon, eventually rendering it useless. So, as you can see, fuel-air ratios affect combustion in very important ways.

Strawberries grow in the soil, they are not made in factories.

If we knew what "it" was, maybe we could help you. True, the 39A, one of the classiest .22 rifles you can possibly buy, is made to take down into two sub-assemblies. Don't know if "it" does or not. Try again with a more specific question. I have followed the take down instructions in order to take the action apart in two sections, however there is something that has come apart in the interior preventing me from coming up with two pieces when I take the (thumb Screw) out, as it's called step 1 unload the rifle step 2 be sure you have unloaded the rifle step 3 bring the hammer to full cock step 4 lossen the takedown screw step 5 if the gun is fairly new or has never been taken down the rifle due to tight tolerance on these guns, might need a firm slap (with your palm) on the opposite side of the stock from takedown screw in order to get the halves to seperate. just be sure to protect the finish and dont beat it with a hammer step 6 hammer must be cocked for reasembly almost all of them are tight on initial disasembly - Note: do not touch the lever during dissembly and reassembly. Manual shows a picture of tapping barrel muzzle on padded surface. Picture is not clear, but you can also lay gun on your lap with the receiver flat, muzzle to your left, buttstock to your right, with the lever facing away from you - smack the receiver near the half moon shape joint. That is where the two halves dovetail together. At this point the buttstock piece should be able to pivot/lift off the barrel portion of the assembly. If you try the method listed in the manual make sure you are holding the gun "sideways" - so the the receiver is parallel to the floor. Gun should "fold" down in the center to disassemble. The only part that can come out is the bolt/firing pin assembly. It is pretty easy to put back in, study the parts and slide it back into the receiver from the rear prior to assembly. There are parts diagrams on the internet to show orientation of the parts if you aren't sure.

what is the question?

on both sides of the instrument cluster there is a panel switch and dome switch, these pull straight out. After you get them out remove the clips from the back of each. Straight back behind the stering column there are two star screws (hidden by a rubber piece) remove those. Pull the dash cover straight out (might be hard). once out remove the star screws from the instrument cluster then pull it out. It will be easy to remove.

Place a jack under tank to support the tank. Remove fuel tank straps. Slowly lower tank. When able to reach in, diconnect all electric lines and fuel lines. Continue to lower tank and remove.

Helpful hint, hope the tank is nearly empty.

Some additional info: If your suburban has the optional shield package, then you 1st must remove the fuel tank shield sitting underneath/around the tank bottom. There are 4 bolts that hold the front of the shroud and 3 or 4 that hold the rear. They thread into captive nuts inside the relevant frame members (they are long - about 6"). Once removed, drop the shround and now you can remove the straps etc.

Regards.

Please disconnect the negative terminal from the battery before you proceed with any of the above.

no the engine would still run fine if it spits and sputters sounds like timing mine did the same thing when i changed intake manifold gaskets

engine covered with oil, stuck PVC valve or equivalent, build up of crankcase pressure blows out top oil under gaskets over engine. However white smoke indicates your 'burnin g' water, coolant, this sounds more like a cracked cylinder head,block, or blown gasket that is allowing oil to escape to the surface, but water to enter a cylinder and vaporise and escape with the exhause gas's, the catalytic converter is trying to burn the residue of the antifreeze and produces the smell. Your fortunate its not in the oil, as antifreeze gets sticky and will stick the rings or a piston. Sounds like a time to spend some money before it gets worse or bail out and replace the engine or car.