Your carb is underneath the gas tank. A clymer manual is a good place to start in finding out how to perform maintenance on your bike
4 barell rochesters used 2 adjustment screws. With the engine off adjust the screws fully inward then turn them out 2 full revolutions. Start the engine and continue turing each screw by a quarter turn in sync with each other until the idle seems correct. If you are advanced enough you can also use a vacuum gauge attached to a manifold vacuum source and watch the vacuum readings while turing the screws. If the vacuum drops too much then you leaned it out too much and you need to go back a quarter turn or until suitable. Hope this helped.
The real answer: First the assumptions. I assume that it is in fact adjustable because you give no date of the carb. If the carb pre-dates 1972 then it is. And I assume the intake manifold is a dual plane intake. And I assume that the car starts and runs but needs the A/F ratio tweaked. If it doesn't start, then set the screws at a base setting of two turns "out". A dual plane intake separates totally the intake runners between cylinder 1,3,5,7 and 2,4,6,8. Therefore 1/2 of the intake manifold serves fuel to the right bank and and the other half to the left bank. Therefore, the adjustment screws need not and should not be turned "in sync". If using a vacuum gauge as the writer above suggests, turn each screw independently for the highest vacuum. Then back-off screw 1/4 turn.
If using a tachometer, the suggested way. Then turn one screw clock-wise for highest RPM (rich condition) and then turn the screw counter-clockwise (lean condition) until engine just stumbles; turn screw clockwise 1/4 turn. Do the same for the other adjustment screw.
P.S. The previous writer is an idiot.
68 Impala convertible
67 GTO
Charlie Linkowich
Remove the four bolts holding the clutch pressure springs, next remove the outer cover. ÊRemove the clutch pack and soak in oil, replace the cover with pack in position and use a new gasket put the cover back on and fill with oil.
Actually somewhat simple. You need to remove it from the machine. To do this, remove the nuts attaching it to the head. I remove the slider cable by removing the 3 screws at the top. Next, remove the second throttle cable by taking off the plastic plate on the side and disconnecting the cable on the inside.
I placed it on some clean cotton cloths and removed the bowl, jets, choke plunger, diaphragm and ran choke cleaner through it all. I would recommend that you replace the float, diaphragm, and rubber gaskets. Check the slider for wear and replace this if it is worn.
there should be 2 screws on the carb one with a spring which is the idle screw turn it all the way in and start by screwing it out 2 and 1/2 spins the other screw is your fuel screw start 1 and 1/2 screws out play with them you will figure it out quite fast
the carberator rebuild kit comes with rebuild instructions and requires an understanding of how a carb works.
Rather than what the previous answer was, I believe the flame moves because of where the reaction is taking place. The combustion reaction requires oxygen as well and so where it feels an abundance of oxygen (small scale level), the reaction will follow -> which leads to the visual effect of the moving flame.
Outside from that, many factors can affect motion of the flame, such as a draft from.. anything, and many more simple factors like such.
Carb flames are causes by a variety of things. most often the engine is advanced to far or you have a carb leak interally that puts to much fuel in the engine. If the engine has high miles the intake valves may be leaking allow the flame to escape around it.
Turn Drivers side fuel mixture screw CW until it Stop turning. (Lightly do not over tighten)
Turn Fuel mixture CCW 3 turns then stop. Do the same on passengers side.
Start engine Turn mixture screw as before CW until Engine Starts to stumbel then back out 1/4 turn. Do the same on other side. set RPMS ur good 2 go
Most of the online retailers such as Summit, Jeg's, and others are pretty competitive with regards to price, quality, and service.
clean the jets make sure there is a clean hole that goes all the way through them. be sure that gas is getting to the carb
This carb requires two good O rings on the fuel emulsion tube internally be in very good shape for the primer to work. Also needed is a good fuel bowl gasket seal and of course primer bulb with no leaks or tears. Replace any of these defective rubber parts as needed and it should start and run like new.
the main jet has a small hole in the side. make sure this is clean, use a small pc of wire and some carb cleaner, also has a jet in the middle, make sure all is clean, there is a pilot jet on the side, usually covered with a black plastic cover, remove the jet with a small flat blade screwdriver, clean that out with a small wire. get a tecumseh rebuild kit, replace the needle and seat, adjust the float. you can use compressed air to blow out all the holes, run some carb cleaner through all the jets you see. put it all back together and it should fire right up with a couple of pumps of the primer.
V-8 really doesn't have a carb. That is the air induction system. The underhood decal is the finest. Hopefully it is still there. Otherwise there can be some differences. There are quite a few hoses. Without the under hood perhaps a Mitchell Manual. Or call the friendly folks at Dodge.
By cutting off part of the supply of air. This will cause the fuel/air mixture to be very rich. A cold engine needs a much richer mix than a warm engine. Once the engine warms up the choke opens up and the fuel/air mixture is restored to the optimum mix.
Mazdatrucking.com has an extensive Holley 5200 page in their tech section as well as some tech videos. Attached below are some links.
Idle speed on a 1995 Chrysler Cirrus is controlled by the PCM. The PCM operates the idle air control motor. The PCM adjusts engine speed through the idle air control motor to compensate for engine load, coolant temperature or barometeric pressure changes.
The Idle Air Control (IAC) motor is mounted on the throttle body and has an air bypass passage that provides air for the engine during closed throttle idle. The idle air control motor pintle protudes into the air bypass passage and regulates air flow trough it.
The PCM adjusts engine idle speed by moving the IAC motor pintle in and out of the bypass passage. The adjustments are based on inputs the PCM receives. The inputs are from the throttle position sensor, crankshaft position sensor, coolant temperature sensor, MAP sensor, vehicle speed sensor and various switch operations.
Hope that helps.
timing might be off or the carb is loading up /too much fuel or has a faulty accelerator pump.
If you have the 2.3 engine, one possibility is sludge in the Throttle Body.
i have a 96 blaster that had the same problem. if it is the same as mine was i believe it will leak from the over flow hose. to fix this i took out the float and replaced it with a new one. but the new float was not needed what was needed was to take out the float and clean all components conected to it with carb/choke cleaner
hope this helps