You can take chlorophyll supplements, either in pill form or liquid form. It has the taste of spearmint. Chlorophyll is what plants use to get oxygen into their systems and it works. When I've had to have surgery and don't want blood transfusions, I start taking chlorophyll a few weeks ahead. It is a natural substance that most people can take with no problems. Go to a health food store and they will help you. Just don't take the whole bottle in one day. Follow the directions on the container.
it affects it because the hotter the temperature is the aster paint will dry.
yes, it is perfectly ok to put tabs in skimmer basket.
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NO: it is NOT OK - unless the manufacturers of the particular skimmers, pumps and filters on your pool advise it is permissible. Buy either a proper in-line tablet feeder (it goes in the return pipe downstream from the filter) or floating basket-type tablet dispensers. The skimmers are NOT chemical dispensers.
That depend on the amount of sunlight the amount of use the pool is getting and the amount of bio- material suspended in the pool. The best thing to do is to test the pool and follow the instructions on the test kit or take a sample of water to your pool shop and ask them for advice.
To the best of my knowledge, WM does not sell CO2. Acadamy does in the Dallas area and so do most paintball stores. But just for a heads up, a lot of stores are going away from CO2. It has become a commodity that is more exspensive than for N2 or compressed air. The stores are charging less for HPA than for CO2. You can get a 48ci 3000 psi tank for less than $90 in most cases.
Just wait it out, the Ch level will come down. When you add Ch (Shock) you are spiking the Ch level and normal conditions use Ch and lower the concentration. Unless you put so much in that it is having detrimental effects, you shouldn't worry. Be sure the Ph is in balance. If the Ph or Alkalinity is out of tolerence, you may have long term problems, like corrosion of tubing in the heater.
Good luck
There should not be a major problem unless the chlor level is above 10.0 ppm.
Whatever type of chlorine you use (liquid, tablets, granular) you must add sufficient, on a regular basis, to maintain a residual of 'free-and-available' chlorine in the water at all times. You measure this with a normal pool test kit. You only need to shock the pool if there are 'combined-chlorine' present (this you also determine with a normal pool test kit). Shock chemicals will have doseage instructions on the container. -residual' in the pool (1-2ppm is common). A salt (saline) system will produce the sanitizer you require, automatically, from a mild level of ordinary salt dissolved in the pool water - so you will not need to add chlorine, shock or algaecide.
Shock your pool when your pool needs it, not because it's Saturday.
Test for chloramines by using a Taylor DPD test kit. If the chloramines are above .6, then shock. Keep your tab feeder or floater full at all times, especially in the Summer. Never put tabs in the skimmer.
It depends on the size, age and condition of the pool, whether it's enclosed and how much decking is around it. If the pool is NOT in-ground, forget it. An inground pool that cost $20,000 might add about half that to the value of a home, on average.
Your test kit may be telling you that your pH is 6.8 when in fact in may be much lower. Your test kit only tests to 6.8. Your skin will probably feel itchy and dry after swimming and will irritate your eyes. The worst part of having a pH lower than the recommended level is that it is pretty rough on the equipment - heater, pump and metal parts in contact with the water. The plaster will also be damaged and will not only be staining but it is being etched - removing what is called the butter part of the plaster. Turn off your pump now. Depending upon the size of the pool you will need upwards to 20 or more pounds of soda ash or costic soda if you know exactly how to handle and use. Add the soda ash - maybe 2 - 3 pounds at a time mixed with water in a bucket and pour as you walk around the pool coping (follow label inst.) and brush- testing about every 15 min. When the pH comes up to 7.0 or 7.2 stop adding soda ash and then turn on the pump. The water may turn cloudy - keep the circulation going until water is fairly clear. Back wash filter as needed. Don't worry about your chlorine levels during the process - do that after you have achieved your goal.
Ken
Your chlorine level depends on how often the pool is used, and the time of year. When swimming is at it's peak, the chlorine has to work harder for the pool to be kept clean, and when it's warmer, the chance for algae to grow is much greater. Buy a pool test kit and check your levels periodically. check daily at first, and then you will get an idea of your pool usage, and when to add chlorine. I had a pool that had an automatic chlorinator, that used tablets to keep a constant level of chlorine
First you need a pool service company to come out and check out your water. Or, you can take a sample of your water to a pool company and have them check it. Go from there. Make sure this company has been in business for at least 20 years or more. Make sure you pick a company that can accommodate all your needs when it comes to a pool.
I've been using chlorine bleach as a shock treatment for years - never had any ammonia issues. If you have also used any of the algae treatments (Mustard Master, yellow Out, etc.) that could well be the reason for the ammonia. That stuff probably reacted with the chlorine. Chlorine bleach is no different in its cleaning properties than trichlor or HTH. It just isn't stabilized.
You would probably not have amonia problems unless someone war peeing in the pool. Test the water and adjust chems once or twice per week.
use a conditioner and stabilizer to keep chlorine from prematurely dissipating
You need Tri-Chlor chlorine tabs that have cyanuric acid. This is the stabilizer for chlorine. Go to the pool link below for a chart.
Good luck
Robert