I just did this on my own van. The first thing to do is to disconnect the negative terminal of the battery. Then remove the serpentine belt. You'll need a 15 mm wrench to do this. I put a peice of exhaust pipe over the wrench for extra leverage. Put the wrench on the tension pulley and pull back to loosen the belt. Slip the belt off of the alternator pulley and let it drop down out of the way. Next, take the top bolt off of the alternator and loosen the bottom one. This will allow you to tlit the alternator back. Then remove the plate that the upper alternator bolt attaches to. This will give you room to get at the nut on the backside of the lower alternator bolt. Remove this bolt and the alternator will be free. Remove the electrical connections and then you are ready to pull the alternator out. It is a very tight fit to pull the alternator out between the support bracket and the fender well but it can be done. Remove the windshield tray drip hose and pull it out of the way. Pull the alternator forward and jockey it around until it comes out. You may have to push in on the support bracket to get it to come out.

To put the new one in , do everything in reverse order. Have fun with the belt!!

For the front brakes put the car up on jack stands or you can do one wheel at a time with a regular jack. Remove the front wheels. There are 2 bolts on the back of the caliper holding it to the hub assembly. Remove those 2 bolts and the caliper will slide off from the side. Don't let the caliper hang by the brake hose. Try using a bungee cord or some wire and tie to any part of the car for support so it can hang without damaging the hose. If the rotor needs replacing that should slide freely right off the wheel studs at this point. Next you will need a C-clamp. Find a good access point on the caliper and place one edge of the clamp to the caliper and the other edge to the brake pad that is set in the piston. Compress the brake pad until it won't move inward anymore and then loosen and remove the C-clamp. Remove the old brake pads with a flat head screw driver. They are only held in by metal clips. Installation is the reverse procedure. You may want to spray the back of the new brake pads with an anti squealing compound and allow to dry before installing them. This will ensure nice quiet brakes. Also you will need to pump the brakes a few times when you first start the car until the brake pad feels normal again. It will be very loose because the calipers will still be compressed.

For the back brakes put the car on jack stands or you can do one wheel at a time. Remove the rear wheels. You will need to pull the drum off of the wheel assembly. This may requre some banging with a large hammer. I believe on the Geo there is one retaining screw that will be a real pain to get off with a regular screwdriver. You may want to purchase a power driver for this application so as not to strip the screw. One can be purchased at a good auto parts store for about $20.00. Make sure the emergency brake is not on or you will never get the drum off. Once the drum is removed there are 2 retaining springs on each brake pad that can be a pain to remove. You can try with a regular pair of pliers and push the spring in and turn it clockwise so that the retaining post can easily slide through the slot on the plate connected to the spring. They also sell a tool specifically made for this purpose. You will also need to disconnect the emergency brake cable which will be attached to only one of the brake pads at the bottom. You should be able to remove both pads at the same time. They will be connected together by a spring at the bottom and separated by a cylinder with a star wheel on it. You will want to turn the star wheel to close the distance between the pads. Take note of how the pieces are put together before removing everything because there are some pieces that are held in by other pieces and they may fall out while removing the pads. Installation is the reverse procedure. Once the new pads are on you will want to put the car in reverse and let it roll to the end of the drive way and then slam your brakes. This will set the cylinder with the star wheel so that you have the proper distance between the brake pads.

Replacing the clutch pressure plate and throw out bearing on a Chevy Metro is a relatively straightforward process. You will need a few basic tools such as a set of sockets and a ratchet a torque wrench and a clutch alignment tool. Here is a step-by-step guide to help you replace the clutch components on your Metro:

• Start by disconnecting the negative battery cable to prevent any electrical shocks.
• Disengage the transmission and remove the driveshaft. This is done by removing the bolts located on the front and rear of the transmission.
• Remove the bell housing bolts and the starter. Next lower the transmission and place it aside.
• Remove the pressure plate and the throw out bearing. This is done by removing the bolts that hold the pressure plate to the flywheel.
• Install the new throw out bearing on the transmission input shaft. Make sure to align the bearing with the splines on the shaft.
• Install the new pressure plate on the flywheel and tighten the bolts to the correct torque specification. This should be done in a crisscross pattern.
• Reinstall the transmission driveshaft and starter. Make sure to torque the bell housing bolts to the correct specification.
• Once the transmission is installed reattach the negative battery cable.

Once this process is complete you will have successfully replaced the clutch pressure plate and throw out bearing on your Chevy Metro.

Chevy Metro 2001 (1.3 L) has a timing belt - hard driving conditions require its replacement at 60,000 miles, otherwise the timing belt replacement is scheduled for 100,000 miles.

Kia Kharman Ghia K-Car

i need timeing marks for a 1999 1.3 chevy metro

In what make and model vehicle?

theres a pretty good chance the o-ring for the oil dipstick housing tube (to check the oil level of the car) is going bad. you can replace it with a new o-ring or use some gasket sealant to firm it up

Press the big gren illuminated button, SIMPLE!

2000

This will refer to the front drivers and passenger doors only. I havent tried the others yet. You will need a PHILLIPS SCREWDRIVER only. No other tools are necessary. After you remove the 2 screws in the arm rest and the 2 screws behind the door handle and you remove the trim piece forward of the window, the panel is just held on at this point by hanger hooks. Simply struggle with lifting the entire door trim panel straight up to release these hooks. Caution is needed here to prevent breaking these hooks. Another caution here.......when you get the panel released, do not lower the panel towards the ground. You must disconnect the short wiring harnesses off the power window switch and the power door lock switch. They are not very long.

Yes, some great dental clinics in Tucson, AZ would be Gibson Dental and Presidio Dental. They are both extremely highly rated and popular.

The air bag system did not pass self test at startup time and is nonfunctional.

Lets hope it's just the fuse.

YES

buy or make a 1/4" curved pick, approx 6 " long, slightly larger ok, small diameter material. slip it behind the plastic washer around the window crank, feel for the window handle clip, approx the diameter of a paper clip and shaped kind of like an old non spring clothspin, there is room to hook the clip on the top, a gap is provided. give it a tug and watch where it flys to. reinstal the clip before you insert the new crank handle.

not difficult, just frustrating the first time. dave

I would try the dealership if I couldnt find one in the salvage yard.

You won't find one. It didn't come with a cabin filter.

That's partially burned oil. From oil in your cylinders. Most likely from bad rings or bad valves.

If you install the throwout bearing incorrectly it can hold the pressure plate open and there will be no mechanical linkage between the transmission and the engine.

Before you take it apart to check try adjusting the clutch linkage.