What would you like to do?
PHASE 1 - Vehicle Preparation 1) Have the system emptied of all excess refrigerants at an auto shop. Most reputable mechanics will do this for free. 2) Disconnect the positive wire (red) on the battery. 3) Remove the front grill assembly from the vehicle. There are for screws holding it on. The left and right screws will need a 9/32 or 7mm socket. The two middle screws require a Phillips head screwdriver. All four screws are located near the top of the grill. The bottom of the grill is held in by clips and should slide out with little effort. 4) Disconnect the six light harness clips from the grill. You can take the bulbs out if you'd like, our just safely tuck the harness and bulbs out of the way. 5) Remove the left (passenger side) headlight assembly using a 10mm socket. It has 4 screws holding it onto the vehicle. Disconnect both harnesses and tuck them away for safe keeping. NOTE: Removing the headlight will provide you the best access to the Orifice Tube Filter later. 6) If your vehicle is equipped with a retractable courtesy light assembly, remove it to gain clear access to the Accumulator. There are two 9/32 screws that hold the assembly onto the fire wall. Disconnect the power supply harness and remove the assembly. 7) There are four sensor harnesses that must be disconnected. a. Accumulator/Drier = Pressure Cut-Off Switch b. Hose Assembly = Clutch Cycling Switch c. Compressor (Back) = Cut-Off Switch d. Compressor (Front) = Cut-Off Switch 8) Using the standard ¾" ratchet from your socket set, loosen the belt tension pulley. It is located behind the cooling fan to the left. It is not necessary to completely remove the belt, merely un-loop the compressor side. NOTE: It is always a good idea to jot down a drawing of how the belt runs in case you forget later. PHASE 2 - Hose Assembly Removal 1) Remove the 15mm screw in the center of the hose assembly, located directly on top of the compressor. It may be necessary to un-clip the throttle cables from the nearby bracket to remove the compressor, so you can do this now. If you need to, use a screwdriver to help you pry the assembly from the compressor. NOTE: have a rag handy, because there might still be pressure in the system and oil can spray out. 2) Using 1 1/16" wrench and an adjustable wrench, remove the Accumulator from the evaporator tube protruding from the firewall. NOTE: Unless you are having trouble gaining access to the back of the Accumulator, it is not necessary to remove the Hose Assembly from the Accumulator. 3) The front hose of the Assembly passes thru the front of the vehicle and attaches to the upper tube of the condenser. Using a 20mm wrench and an adjustable wrench, disconnect the tube. 4) You can now remove the Hose Assembly from the truck. NOTE: You may need to remove the lower connection on the condenser before you can slide the Hose Assembly thru the opening. PHASE 3 - Orifice Tube Filter Removal 1) If you have not disconnected the lower tube on the condenser, use a 20mm wrench and adjustable wrench to do so now. 2) The Orifice Tube Filter is located inside of the tube stem protruding from the bottom of the condenser. If the tube is not bent or otherwise damaged, the Orifice Tube Filter should slide out with some effort. If the Orifice Tube Filter will not come out easily, gently pull using needle nose pliers. NOTE: There is a specific Orifice Tube Filter Tool, but I have not had much luck using it in the past. WARNING: If the Orifice Tube Filter breaks, it is possible to drill the tube out. This takes time and should be done carefully. Be sure to use your air compressor on the top tube of the condenser to blow out any shavings and debris before closing the system. In the past, I have had to drill out the Orifice Tube Filter and I gradually increased drill bit sizes until I was able to "hook" the Filter and slide it out. My "hook" was made from a long carpenter nail that I filed to a thin point on a grinding wheel. I used a set of needle nose pliers to curve the point like a fishing hook. After drilling out the center of the Orifice Tube Filter, I inserted the "hook", turned it a ¼ turn and pulled out the Filter. I suggest using the needle nose pliers to grip the "hook". Remember to use the air compressor to blow out any remaining shavings or debris. WARNING: Only blow air from the top tube of the condenser. 3) If it was difficult to remove the Orifice Tube Filter, chances are it will be difficult to re-insert the tube later. PHASE 4 - Compressor Removal 1) Using a 13mm socket wrench, remove the four bolts on top of the compressor. Lift the compressor from the mounting bracket. NOTE: Be sure to hold the compressor upright when carrying from the vehicle because there will be oil inside of the compressor. PHASE 5 - Flush & Clean 1) I use an aerosol Flush & Clean solution from the auto parts store. Follow the instructions on the can. NOTE: If you can plug the lower tube on the condenser and plug the lower tube line from the evaporator, you can flush the two units separately. This also allows you to use a small bucket to catch the flushing agent when you release it from the units. Be sure to use compressed air to help remove the flush from the system. You can pour the used flushing agent into a graduated cylinder to measure how much you recovered. Expect to recover the entire flushing agent (minus 1 oz.). NOTE: Dispose of the flushing agent in accordance with federal law. PHASE 6 - Compressor Preparation 1) Turn the compressor upright and locate the snap ring on the bottom. Remove this using a pair of snap ring pliers. 2) Using a flathead screwdriver, remove the plug from the compressor. 3) Discard the loose o-ring that is under the plug. 4) Insert the Clutch Cut -Off sensor. 5) Re-install the snap ring. 6) Lay the compressor down so the two holes are upright. Pour 4 oz. (half of the 8 oz. container) of PAG 150 Oil into the compressor. Use a funnel in the side of the compressor with the larger opening. 7) Turn the compressor on end so the clutch is on bottom. Allow to stand for at least 3 minutes for the PAG Oil to coat the inside of the compressor. PHASE 6 - Orifice Tube Filter Install 1) Using a little bit of PAG Oil, coat the o-ring on the new Filter. 2) Insert the Filter into the lower tube of the condenser. NOTE: The Orifice Tube Filter Tool will assist in pushing it into the tube. 3) Be sure to insert the Filter deep enough otherwise the connecting tube will not seat properly. NOTE: Do not attach the hose until you have attached the new Hose Assembly to the upper tube of the condenser. PHASE 7 - Accumulator/Drier Preparation 1) Attach the new Pressure Cut-Off sensor to the Accumulator. NOTE: Be sure to install the new o-ring that comes with the new switch. 2) Connect the new Hose Assembly to the Accumulator. NOTE: The new Hose Assembly will normally have all the new o-rings already installed on it from the manufacturer. 3) Pour the remaining PAG 150 Oil into the remaining opening on the Accumulator. NOTE: Be sure to put the temporary plug back on the Accumulator until you are ready to install the Accumulator. PHASE 8 - Compressor Installation 1) Place the Compressor on the mounting bracket. 2) Using a 13mm socket wrench, install the four bolts. 3) Re-loop the belt over the pulley and properly tension the entire belt using the tension pulley as before. 4) Attach the two sensor harnesses, front and back. NOTE: Attaching the back sensor harness before bolting the compressor may make this task easier. PHASE 9 - Hose Assembly and Accumulator/Drier Installation 1) Check the Hose Assembly mounting bracket to make sure the compression rings have been installed by the manufacturer. If not, install them onto the bracket - not on the Compressor. 2) Install the bracket onto the Compressor using the bolt and a 15mm socket wrench. NOTE: It is recommended to use a torque wrench to properly tighten the bolt. Refer to the manufacturer for the torque lbs needed. 3) Attach the sensor harness to the new switch on the Hose Assembly. 4) Place the Accumulator into the mounting bracket on the fire wall. Using the 1 1/16" wrench and adjustable wrench, tighten the compression fitting. NOTE: Be sure to use a new o-ring. 5) Attach the sensor harness to the new switch on the Accumulator. 6) Pass the front hose thru the opening in the vehicle and attach the hose to the upper tube on the condenser. 7) Attach the remaining hose onto the lower tube of the condenser. NOTE: Be sure to use a new o-ring. PHASE 10 - Vacuum Pump & Manifold Test Gauge 1) Using the Manifold Test Gauge, connect into the system on the high and low sides. 2) Use the remaining hose from the Test Gauge to connect to the Vacuum Pump. 3) Follow the instructions for the pump and test gauge. 4) If you cannot evacuate out enough air from the system to reach 28-29 Hg, there is a leak somewhere in the system. Turn off the pump and tighten all the fittings again. PHASE 11 - Charging the System with Refrigerant 1) If you are using 12 oz. cans of 134a Refrigerant, you will most likely need 6 cans. A seventh can is a good idea to have on hand in case of a previously undetected leak. 2) Follow the instructions from the manufacturer for proper charging procedures. NOTE: At this point, the vehicle can be re-assembled and driven to a professional A/C Technician so they can charge the system. 3) Be sure to put a Test Thermometer inside a vent in the interior of the vehicle. A good operating temperature is about 40-45 degrees (Fahrenheit). 4) Before charging the system, the vehicle must be running and the A/C turned on to the highest setting. NOTE: The clutch will not engage until there is a minimum charge on the system. Usually this takes about 2-2 ½ cans of refrigerant (12 oz.). PHASE 12 - Vehicle Re-Assembly 1) Reverse steps 1-6 in PHASE 1.
3 people found this useful
Was this answer useful?
Thanks for the feedback!
I have done this and it was pretty easy. It takes about three hours. The best thing to do is buy a manual or go to the auto parts store and read it. You probably will have to …buy a large Allen wrench socket to get the calipers off. Then compress cylinders with C clamp, insert new pads and replace calipers. First have all your tool ready. you will need a T-55 torx socket to remove the two bolts holding the caliper in place. make sure before jacking the truck up you are on concrete or asphalt and flatground. Start by taking your jack to the front of the truck, look underneath and find the main frame of the truck, this will be solid steel. Set your jack underneath the truck and center it on the main frame. Start to jack up until you just start to touch the main frame then STOP. Now go to each front wheel start braking lose your lug nuts, once they break loose only turn them once around do not take them all the way off yet. Once you are done, *NOTE* you will need jack stands for this (safety purposes), have your jack stands ready. Start to jack up the truck, while keeping an eye on your jack as your jacking up so that all is looking safe, and the jack isn't slipping. If it is, slowly bring it down and start over. Jack until your tires are off the ground about 2inches. Now set your jack stands under the main frame, one on the left side, and one on the right side. Try to get them about the same. Or you can put one under each side of the door. NOTE if you do put under each door look to make sure that your not going to smash your fuleline, brakeline or any other line. Once your stands are in place slowly bring the jack down just till you have about a 50% of the truck weight on the stands and 50%on the jack it self. take off tire. Turn the steeringwheel all the way left or right so you can work easier taking out the 2 bolts "Halfway" with your T-55 torx. After the bolts are out halfway, take a large regular screwdriver and pry the top part of the caliper. It will start to come off slowly. Once you have the caliper off look at your brakes, match them up before you take the old ones off. Take one old brakepad and set it against the caliper piston, take a C-clamp and clamp on the old brake and the back side of the piston, slowly drive the piston back in. Now just set the new pads in, and put it back together. If you get suck and your not sure how it goes back together. take digital pictures of the caliper before you get sarted and as needed as you go along. Then view the pictures later as you need to help you. And you can always go to the other side of the truck and look at the other caliper. Only work on one side at time just for this reason. Thanks to ***Blackchevyangel***
What additional items will need to be changed when swapping a 5.0L 305 for a 5.7L 350 in a 1996 Silverado k1500 more specfically the ECU electronics and does anyone make a chip or do I need a 350 ECU?
Answer you are venturing into an area of which nightmares are made. I did exactly what you are doing, a shop did it. a crate vortec 5.7 bottom line: th…e rig won't run properly. do not believe the people who tell you all you have to do is get a reconfiguration number or something from GM, to flash the computor. Techs fr very reputable dealers, have tried to do just that for me. GM's reply was, "we do not support engine swapping, even if both engines were an option, and we can not give you a number " if it's not to late,,,,,,my advise would be,,,,,,,,stick with the 305.
Do you need to drop the transfer case to change oil pan gasket on a 93 Chevy Silverado K1500 4x4 with 5.7L?
I figured this one out today. The Haynes manual says to remove the front axel... well, that isn't as simple as writing it down. I improvised. Remove the front drive shaft. The… axial spline junction on my shaft was too rusted to 'telescope' in for full removal, so taking the yoke brackets off of the front universal joint was enough for the next step. The front axel housing/tube bolts to the frame via four rubber bushings; left and right, top and bottom. Remove the bolt from the LOWER bushings on the right and left side. I used an air impact wrench. My air tools were INDISPENSIBLE for this job. The bolts were rusted, but a little liquid wrench and the impact driver broke them free. Let the front axel housing assembly rotate downward ( a pry bar was necessary for a little encouragement) until the drive shaft can be disengaged from the front yoke. Lift the drive shaft upward, out of the way, and lower the axel housing as far down as it will go. Next, take the bolt out of the left and right motor mounts. Again, my impact wrench saved my bacon. It was hard to get enough torque on the bolts otherwise with limited access. The rear nut is 11/16, the front bolt head is 5/8. I put a box wrench on the 11/16 nut, and the impact wrench on the 5/8 bolt head, accessed to down from under the hood. I used an extention on the air wrench to reach out and avoid interference. Finally, I used a small hydrolic jack against the front of the tranny to push up the motor. The suspension raises up a couple of inches as the weight of the motor & tranny transfers to the jack; and then the motor lifted up only 1.5 to 2 inches off the mounts, for a total of ~4" of additional lift... that plus the room from rotating the front axel downward, and the oil pan came right out - of course, I had already taken off the front cover from the bell housing. The clutch slave cylinder & starter were removed, as was the oil filter housing (can't find in the Haynes manual what this oil filter housing is...) for better access to the bolts on the oil pan rim. The motor mount brackets never had to completely 'clear' the frame mount brackets. I first tried the jack against the bell housing, but the rear of the oil pan interfered w/ the jack. Fortunately, the cross tube exhaust pipe runs just rear of the bell housing, and I didn't have to disturb the rusted exhaust bolts... After I bolted the new oil pan into place, I was careful to align the front drive shaft U-joint in the front axel yoke as I jacked the axel housing up to align the bushings and bolt holes again. A little lift, and a little adjustment of the drive shave U-joint... and finally rotating the shaft a little as the transfer case raises into position - the U-joint popped back down into the yoke seat. 1994 Chevy Cheyenne K2500, 5.7 L 5sp manual. My oil pan was rusted, and oil was leaking through the pan. I also changed the leaky freeze plug behind the starter.
You Don'tThis is a job for a professional with the tools and knowledge necessary for this repair. Not a job for a novice. ^^^^^^^^this is not the best answer that someone gave… its not that complicated takes basic skills email me and i will give you step by step instruction
Answer . 4 BEFORE (ADVANCED) TDC A 800 RPM WITH THE VACUME ADVANCE DISCONNECTED AND PLUGGED.
Can a 1994 Chevy K1500 350 5.7L with TBI 220 switch to a Holly 670cfm without changing the fuel pump?
Not a good idea to even try that one. The fuel pressure at the tank of your 94 Chev is actually quite high and will push fuel past the needle and seat in your carburetor…, creating a very high potential for a fire. The needle and seat valve assembly inside the carburetor just can't handle that kind of pressure.
It's behind your grill left side. Remove four screws at the top, one one each end and two other nearer the center sorta hidden. also there is one just above the bow tie. Pop… it out from the bottom after you remove the Bulb Holders.. 3 each both ends. too the left now you'll see two hoses, one will have a 3 indents around it's diameter, that's where she's at. .
# First, have someone evacuate the refrigerant from the old system. # Physically remove the old compressor, rubber hoses and the receiver/dryer. Also plan to replace t…he expansion valve, you may need to search for it but it's often at the bottom of the condenser, right where it connects to the hose that leads back to the passenger compartment. # Often the old compressor starts to blow chunks and you end up with debris in the refrigeration lines so you'll want to examine the oil, if it's black or anything but clear, run a "flush" solution through the remaining lines until it comes out clean. Blow it all clean with compressed air that's gone through a dryer. # Reassemble refrigeration system using new hoses, expansion valve and compressor. # Vacuum test the system to check for leaks and to remove any traces of water. # Recharge the system using 134A refrigerant and the approved oil charge either adding the exact amount of refrigerant called for in the specifications, or using a gauge set you can determine when the AC is fully charged.
It is in the air intake hose coming from the air filter box going to engine
1 8 4 3 6 5 7 2 clockwise.........
You CAN"T, It is not ajustable. You need to check the idle speed control valve. Also check for a vacuum leak on the engine. If you don't find your problem here, then ask your …question again.
It is in the bottom of the oil pan, And the oil pan is bolted to the very bottom of the engine.
the stock exhaust has a factory 16 inch glass pack on it with a high flow exhaust and high flow exhaust manifold it also has pressure realease valves which is why its so loud>…
That would be a 4L60E transmission.
YES, That is a direct swop.