Divide the power rating (in watts) by the voltage (in volts). So if you use a 100 watt light bulb in a typical 110 volt lamp then it will draw 100/110 = .91 amps of current. Or plug a 1500 watt electric heater into a 110 volt wall socket and it will draw 1500/110 = 13.6 amps of current.
1.Air Flow 2.Over charged unit 3.Dirty evaporator and condenser coils.4.High amp draw
A dehumidifier is pretty much the same device as an air conditioner. It has a compressor which uses freon to create a cold surface for water to condense on. The fan only is a simple fan that moves air. The fan is the smallest electrical draw as opposed to the dehumidifier. The fan can have a current draw of as little as 1/10 of an amp when the dehumidifier can have a current draw as much as 15 amps when the compressor is running.
If you draw one amp of power for 1 hour that is an amp hour . If you have a different load eg a heater drawing 3 amp , it would be 20 minutes . Divide the hour ( 60 mintues ) by the amps you draw .
2 amps
You would need to put an amp-meter on the circuit to see what the current draw is like. ====== If the compressor is shorted to ground you cannot check the amp draw because it will constantly kill the circuit breaker. A better way to go would be to check the continuity of the compressor to ground and each winding.
you dont you need an ammeter for that
The lights are flickering Due to a high starting amp draw created by the compressor starting. This may be a problem starting with the compressor or maybe rectified by adding a hard start kit to the compressor circuit to reduce the starting amp draw. However there can be several reasons for the high amp draw. Some of the problems can be... Over charge of refrigerant, a capacitor that is getting weak, not enough delay between cycles, loose wires or bad connections or a compressor that is in the first stage of failing. In any case the charge should be properly checked and a hard start kit should be added.
Borrow a clamp on amp meter and check full load amps. If pulling full load amps then compressor condemned.
To answer this question the voltage of the compressor is needed.
To test a compressor if locked up read the tag on compressor for locked rotor amps, then bypass safety therm-o-switch found under protective black cover on compressor, and with a clamp-on amp meter momentarily run compressor to check amperage.
There is no reset on the disconnect, you will need to check the fuse's at the disconnect and replace the on that is bad. But most likely if you blew a 60 amp fuse you have a short somewhere, check your termanals at the compressor to see if the compressor went to ground.
As your static pressure increases your Amp draw will drop
It depends on the draw of the compressor.
1.Air Flow 2.Over charged unit 3.Dirty evaporator and condenser coils.4.High amp draw
You may have a loose wire somewhere. You need to check the amp draw of the unit.