How do you change spark plug Mercedes C220?
Remove the engine covers and carefully remove the ignition wires from the spark plugs, there are 12 of them, then remove the spark plugs with a 5/8 plug socket. Make sure the gap is correct on new plugs put a bit of anti seize on the threads then install the new plugs...
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%DETAILS% Just like changing a lightbulb. If you can pump your own gas, you can do this. Location is everything here. Depending on the number of cylinders, you may have 4, 6, or 8 (sometimes 12). If the car is a "V" (i.e. a V6 or a V8) they will be split on each side of the engine (three on one si…de, three on the other for a V6, or 4 on each side for an 8cyl etc..) or if the engine is a "Straight 6" they will be in a line on one side of the top of the engine. You will see thick rubber cables coming from the distributor, (on a 6 cyl there will be 7 cables and on an 8 cyl there will be 9 cables) and each wire will go to a spark plug. DO ONLY ONE AT A TIME so that you do not confuse which wire goes to which plug. Gently pull the wire off the plug (the plug may not be visible until you pull the wire off it) and be sure to ONLY pull the wire off by it's boot (not by pulling the wire which would damage the wire). The plug has a built in bolt which you undo with a socket wrench with a long shaft. Unscrew it, and put the new one in its place. Be super careful to only turn it by hand at first. If you encounter resistance, then you may be cross threading it (screwing it in at an angle). This can be EXPENSIVE to fix. Unscrew and try again. Once it is finger tight, turn it about 3/4 a way more with the wrench (until it is pretty snug) or "torque" it to the specs in the owners manual. (Torqueing is using a tool that tells you how tight you are putting something on.) And you are done. Take the $80 you saved from not having a mechanic do it and buy some beer. I recently changed the plugs and wires and i know i got the firing order right but now my truck wont start. Does anyone know what else could be wrong or if i could have messed anything else up while changing the plugs and wires? Please email me if so! firstname.lastname@example.org From what I have read you don't want to do this when the engine is hot. Perhaps a mechanic can confirm this. A few things I can tell you- I once did the plugs on a camaro -V8 IROC and had to get to them from underneath the car. Keep that in mind when looking for them. The reason you need to let the car cool down first is that some engines, especially in the newer cars, have aluminum heads, and can warp the holes the plugs sit in if you remove them when it's hot. You would not be able to get the new plug in then once you warp the hole. Lastly, a jap car, like mine, (Toyota)- hondas, too, have their plugs way down in the engine and you need at least an 18 inch extension to get there. I suggest you permanently bond the socket to the extension with some JB Weld as they can get stuck down there when you try to pull the plug upward. do not work on cars if you do not know how to change spark plugs inncorrect gaps and weather you need a hot or cold plug you need to detirmine this. so if this is your car and you dont know how to change a spark plug then stop what your doing and go to a mechanic. ok, well remember what the first guy told you, well he was right, but when he told you about the wires on the distributor, like how a V6 has 7 wires, well he did not tell you that the wire in the middle is the coil wire, and if you did not put it back in the right spot your car will not start,2, at the auto parts store you can get a plug gaper,"it looks like a coin, but then you need to know the gap your cars plugs need,3, did you get the right plugs for your car? 4, did you push the wires on to the plug all the way? 5, did you move the distributer at all?, if you did you will change the timing and your car will not run. 6, if you don't know how to do somthing as simple as change your spark plugs, you should never even look under the hood of your car "take it to a shop from now on!" sorry but it is the truth. First, get a correct size spark plug socket, the kind with the rubber insert. Make sure it is the correct size for your car's plugs. Older cars used 13/16" (REAL old cars had even larger sizes); most modern cars use 5/8". Allow the engine to cool so that you will not burn your knuckles, especially on the exhaust manifold. On some engines universal joints for the socket drive extension bar is useful. Spark plug sockets with built-in universal joints are also available. Several lengths of extension bars may come in handy: 3", 6", etc. They can be used in combination for really long reaches. A compressed air blow gun (wear safety goggles!!) with a long nozzle should be used to blow all grit and trash from the spark plug wells or recesses. You don't want any grit or trash to get into the cylinder or to foul the spark plug threads. If there is built-up crud around the plugs, use a good engine cleaner like "Gunk" after the engine has cooled to where you can touch it comfortably. After it has a chance to soak, spray with a water jet, then blow dry with the blow gun. If you can reach the spark plug boots (the rubber sleeves or elbows at the end of the spark plug cables), twist them back and forth just a little to break them free from the spark plug insulators. You don't care about damaging the spark plugs but if you aren't replacing the spark plug cables ("wires") you don't want to pull the cables out of the connectors that snap onto the spark plug terminals. There are a number of hook tools and pliers made to pull the cables loose from the spark plugs. Don't pull on the cables - they likely will pull out of the terminals or may break the "wire" (actually a fiberglass string filled with graphite on most street applications) inside the cable insulator. Take the cables loose and replace the spark plugs one at a time so that the order of the cables is not changed. Unscrew the spark plug and set it aside in order for inspection. Make sure the spark plug threads and seat in the engine cylinder head are clean and grit free. Make sure the threads on the spark plug are clen and undamaged. If the thread is dinged, exchange it for another new plug. Apply a small amount of anti-seize compound (NEVER use oil or grease!) on the spark plug threads. If you can reach it with your hand, screw the spark plug into the hole with your fingers. If there is any resistance, back off and inspect for whatever is jamming it. If you have to, use a spark plug holder (not the socket) to insert and screw in the plug finger tight. Now use the socket to tighten the plug to specification. Old-fashioned flat seat plugs, the ones with gasket washers, are tightened about one turn from finger tight. Modern tapered seat plugs are tightened about 1/16 turn from finger tight. Use of a torque wrench is strongly recommended. Spark plugs are NOT 12mm or 14mm screws. (MORE)
Without more information about the type of engine, and the vehicle it is in, all you can expect to get is generic information. Generally, with the engine cold. You need to remove the spark plug wire from the plug, twisting while pulling on the "boot" not the wire! Next find the correct spark plug so…cket,(one that the new spark plug fits into, AND holds the spark plug. Now make sure the place that the old spark plug is screwed into is clean, using compressed air blow out around the old spark plug to keep dirt and sand from falling into the cylinders (scoring/scratching the life out of them!) Using a 3/8" drive rachet, an extention and the spark plug socket, put the socket in the hole that you removed the spark plug wire from and turn the socket counter clockwise until the spark plug is free. Inspect the spark plug for unusual wear, or deposits this could be a sign of engine problems. Take the new spark plug check the gap!! if it is correct place it in the socket and start theading it in the spark plug hole by hand, turning it clockwise. Tighten the plug firmly, but not till all the veins pop out of your face. Reinstall the sparkplug wire you should feel it snap onto the end of the spark plug. Continue on with each of the other spark plugs making sure to always put the exact same wire onto the plug you took it off of. Note it is a good idea to put a small amount off anti-sieze compound on the threads of the new spark plugs to aid in the installation and removal. Also when reinstalling the spark plug wires use some silicone grease in the boot so that next time the boots will pull off easily. I hope this is some help. Melvis (MORE)
Answer . \nBuy a new set and remove and change ONE WIRE AT A TIME from plugs/distributor cap.
Answer . Please use this for reference only since I have a 1996 C 220.. On the top center of the motor is a cover over the spark plugs. Remove the cover and you should see your plug wires. Obviously just unplug wires and remove the plugs. However I did not have a spark plug wrench the held the …plug so I had to put the plug into the wire and slightly twist the plug into the opening. I then removed the wire again and used the wrench to tighten. Only do one plug at a time obviously. (MORE)
Pull the HT leads off (one at a time so you dont get them mix up). Using a deep socket, (socket sets usually have spark plug sockets included) undo the spark plugs like you would a nut..... Lefty - loosey. Righty - tighty. Pull the HT leads off (one at a time so you dont get them mix up). Using… a deep socket, (socket sets usually have spark plug sockets included) undo the spark plugs like you would a nut..... Lefty - loosey. Righty - tighty (MORE)
I have no idea how to change spark plugs in any vehicle, let alone my 2003 Mercedes-Benz C230 (sports coupe). I did find a helpful series of videos on Expert Village (www.expertvillage.com) and you can access the series at this link: http://www.expertvillage.com/video-series/452_spark-plugs-automoti…ve.htm. Good luck. I am going to try to change mine tomorrow just as a preventative maintenance.. ans Fairly basic...the plugs are found after removing the 3 screws on the shield on top of motor that hold down the little inspection panel. The plugs themselves are in the deep holes. (MORE)
If your have the 3.5L engine (24 valve) the # 2,4, & 6 are in the back- under the ignition coil on plug. The # 1,3, & 5 are beneath the intake manifold plenum which has to be removed ( but not the intake manifold). Remove the top cover (just pops off) that says 3.5L 24Valve on it. Remove six long sc…rews in the rear #10 hex heads, and one of the same by the alternator. Disconnect the sensors connectors and unscrew the EGR tube in the back. Disconnect the vacuum hoses and alternator top mount plate. Remove the oil fill tube, and the two screws that anchor the front side of the plenum to the exhaust manifold. Carefully lift up and pull towards the front of the engine making sure you have removed ALL of the attachments to the plenum (there is a black arm on the vacuum modulator that on the rear right side that needs to be popped off gently). Once removed, the 3 coils are easily removed, thou I would strongly recommend replacing the coils also ($38 each at Auto Zone) if you experiencing a misfire. You will also need the plenum gasket ($12) once the plenum is removed or you have vacuum leaks. . Good luck!! (MORE)
The oil filter is a cartridge type filter which is accessed from above the engine, not the bottom as is normal with US cars. There is a black plastic cap about 3" in diameter on the drivers side of the engine, just behind the radiator hose. Unscrew the oid drain plug and drain oil from below. Then f…rom the top side you can unscrew the oil filter cap, pull out the old cartridge, and drop in a new cartridge filter element. (MORE)
Answer . Depends on vehicle. Electronic ignition fuel injection ? longer intervals between tune-up. 100,000 miles not unreasonable. Points, Carb.? probably every 15-30,000 miles
Answer . Anytime your engine is not running correctly, or missing. Otherwise on a 1995 or older car change them at 50,000 miles. On a 1996 or newer car change at 100,000 miles.
Answer . headlight bulb?..........push big tab on the black bulb cover and take it off........you see wires and connector....... wiggle and pull connector (not the wires) off the bulb terminals...... a metal wire retainer keeps the bulb in place......to release the retainer push inward and left.…....remove spent bulb....new bulb (do not touch glass) fits one way only...........replace retainer........replace cover. entire episode takes about 5 minutes OK! (MORE)
At the front of the engine, behind a plastic cover, just above the exhaust manifold. There are 4 clips that hold the cover to the ignition module. Under the cover, there are 2 bolts that secure the ignition module to the engine. Disconnect the wiring plug on the end of the ignition module. Undo the …bolts and use them to extract the module, then remove the plugs as normal. (MORE)
The Mercedes - Benz Plastic Cover Pulls off, to reveal the plugs, you will need spline tool to remove plug lead
Disconnect the battery, remove the air hose to the throttle body,remove the access plate, remove the spark plug cables and theboots, and remove the spark plugs. Replace the spark plugs, replacethe boots and cables, replace the access plate, attach the air hoseto the throttle body and connect the bat…tery. (MORE)
First off I have to assume the that the engine arrangement is the same for the 2001 as a 1999 model. 1. Remove the air inlet cover that runs over the top of the engine by unclipping at the air filter end and loosening the massive jubilee clip at the other end and sliding it off the rubber retainer. …2. Using a suitable sized Allen key remove the cover on top of the engine block. You should now see the HT leads leading to the sparkplugs. 3. Two of the sparkplugs are accessed by pulling up the plug cover two have covers held by male torx bolts. You will need to uy a special female torx bit for this. Unscrew these and pull up to access spark plugs. 4. Loosen the sparkplugs with a suitable deep socket. I found it easiest to loosen the plugs and extract by pushing the covers over them. The rubber grips the plug and it can be pulled out from the deep recess. 5. replace with new plugs and working in reverse, fit all the bits back that you have removed. I hope you find this useful. (MORE)
Disconnect the car battery, remove the spark plug cables and bootcovers, remove and dispose of the old spark plugs. Next, put in thenew spark plugs, attach the boot covers and spark plug cables andreconnect the battery.
To change the brake pads on a 2005 Mercedes c220 CDI you will firsthave to remove the tire. Remove the hex bolts with the hex wrench.Pull the sensor plug from its socket, then remove the brakecaliper. Slide the old brake pads off, slip the new ones intoplace, and put everything back in place.
just about every manufacturer of cabin filters includes directions for replacemen as well as the filter's location. go to pep boys,,it is included.,,,,25-35 dollars
Changing the spark plug wires in your 1999 Mercedes-Benz is quitesimple. The spark plug wires simply lift off. The new spark plugwires can be pushed onto the spark plug. It is best to change onewire at a time.
How to change spark plugs on a 2001-2002 Prizm: The manufacturer recommended iridium plugs cost about $10.00 apiece and last about 150,000 miles. The platinum plugs cost about $2.00 apiece and last about 50,000 miles. For the hassle involved in repacing the plugs, Iridium plugs are better Tools yo…u will need before you start 1. 1/4" ratchet 2. 1/4" extention 3. 10 mm socket, 1/4" drive 4. small flat bladed screwdriver 5. 3/8" ratchet 6. 3/8" long extention 7. 5/8" spark plug socket, 3/8 " drive 8. air compressor with blow gun or can of compressed air 9. long needle nose pliers 10. 1/4" internal diameter rubber hose 8 inches long 11. wire coat hanger 12. neverseez lubricant Procedure 1. Remove the two 10 mm cap nuts on the top plastic housing over the engine 2. Remove the two fasteners on the back of the housing and remove the plastic cover 3. You will see four plastic blocks with four wire clips on each block. 4. Use compressed air to blow out debris around the blocks 5. Use the small flat bladed screwdriver to carefully lift up on the tab that holds the electrical connector onto the block and slide the wire clip off the block. 6. Remove the 10 mm bolt that holds the plastic block onto the engine. Use the needle pliers (I found that a pair with a 5-7 mm tip are best) to firmly grasp the plastic screw and pull straight up to remove it 7. Loosen the 10 mm nut on end of the plastic rail that holds the wiring harness for the blocks so that the round plastic washer on the bottom of the block will not break when you pull off the block 8. Carefully pull the plastic block out of the engine. There is a 4 inch tube attached to the block that extends into the engine to the spark plug. It will take some twisting and pulling but you must be careful not to catch the back part of the round plastic washer that you cannot see, on the bottom of the plastic wiring harness. 9. The spark plug is at the bottom of the 4 inch hole. 10. Blow compressed air down the hole to remove debris 11. Use a 5/8 sparkplug socket with a rubber collar on the 3/8" extention to remove the spark plug. The rubber collar will hold onto the spark plug as it is removed. 12. The NGK website recommends making sure the spark plugs have the correct gap .044 but the spark plug box says not to adust the gap because you might damage the needle point iridium tip. The new spark plug has a protective cardboard tube that is removed. 13. Spark plugs can stick inside aluminum heads and break off when you try remove them, leaving only the threads of the plug inside the engine which will necessitate removing the head to remove broken spark plug. Putting neverseez on the threads of the new spark plug will prevent that in future spark plug changes 14. Now comes an interesting choice. You can use the rubber tube over the neck of the spark plug to slowly drop it down the hole and hand tighten it or you can use the spark plug socket with the rubber collar. If you use the spark plug socket, the rubber collar will stick to the plug and you will pull off the extention, leaving the socket in the hole. A pair of long needlenose pliers will reach into the hole and remove the socket, but the rubber collar may remain on the plug and you will have to bend a piece of coathanger with a short 90 degree tip to reach into the hole and pull out the rubber collar. The rubber collar is there to prevent you from cocking a regular 5/8" deep socket at an angle which will break off the neck of the sparkplug, necessitating another 10 dollars and another trip to the auto parts store. 15. After the spark plug is hand tight, give it 1/2 turn more. 16. Replace the square block, being sure that the black silicone gasket on the bottom of the round plastic washer does not get bound up on the engine post where the 10 mm bolt goes. Tighten the bolt 17. replace the electrical clip. 18. Go to the next spark plug and repeat the procedure. 19. After the last spark plug is done, be sure to retighten the 10 mm nut on the wiring harness rail 20. Replace the plastic cover over the engine and you are done (MORE)
This is a plug and play installation. The door trim will have to beremoved for the door(s) that have bad lock actuators. Once removedthe motor assemblies and control solenoids can be accessed. Thesolenoids will have a black wiring harness attached. This can bequickly disconnected and the new actuato…rs replaced. If connectorsare dirty or contaminated they can be sprayed with electrical partscleaner first.Ã (MORE)
its a 5/8 deep socket ,you pull the rubber connector off slowly and turn the plug to the left. auto zone or walmarts sell lawn mower plugs. you may want to check the gap on the old plug with a 99 cent gap tool ,and set it to the same on the new. change the oil too that's even more important.
Hey there. Ummm. I'm a pretty decent gear head. My mom owns a 2008 Mercedes Benz E350. Extremely nice car... I was wondering what power plant it had one day, and I looked under the hood. Those engines are not designed to be taken apart by anyone other than people who service at Mercedes dealers for …the rest of their lives, or a authorized Benz Repair shop. About the only do-it-yourself operation I've seen on Mercedes' is the washer fluid, and basic fluid replacement. So my recommendation, even though spark plugs are easy. I would suggest you take it to your authorized Benz dealer, or a certified repair shop for Benz cars. Glad to help! *ADDED---> You should have kept this advice to yourself, it's common sense but doesn't answer the question. The question wasn't whether or not someone thinks you should do this but how to do this. If you don't know, why did you take the time to respond and waste people's time reading your non-answer. Glad to help? What a joke... (MORE)
on the top of the motor there is a plastic cover on top of the cam housing, just take the 4 nuts off of that and it comes right off, the plugs and coils are under that cover, just take the bolts out of the coils and pull them up, its easier than it sounds, if you need help, just email me at tcdude@h…otmail.com, i can send you pictures, i have an 02 rsx (MORE)
Changing spark plugs is not expensive and most people do it when they have their car serviced. If you service your car by yourself, then at least every 20,000 to 30,000 km. It would be imperative to change them if the car is misfiring or running very rough to eliminate the mistake of crank, pistol, …bearing or head trouble, but most of these problems should be evident if someone knows their way around an engine. If spark plugs were changed and there is still a problem with firing, then change the spark leads as well. The only other option is the distributor cap, points and the dynamo, and that's the entire firing system. All would probably cost around $200 on an older carburetor type engine and maybe more for injection. (MORE)
well depends on the year and if it's a sohc or dohc, the single over head cam ones aren't bad , on these,it help to remove airbox, and washer resevoir, that took me about an hour on my 98 legacy2.2. i just gave up on changing them in my 98 forester 2.5 dohc , but just read a thread online, saying it… helps a great deal to undo front motor mount, one side at a time then with a small piece of wood on a jack, crank up motor a couple inches to clear the frame rail, will try it tomorrow, although they say it is possible without lifting motor if you have a 1and1/2 and a 3 inch extension (MORE)
Ive JUST been starting to go over this myself. My 2004 Xterra has a 6 cyl., and only one of the plugs looks hard to get to back by the firewall. I am debating on whether Ill do this myself or pay someone to do it. Ill get back to you ASAP>
Raise hood,un clamp top air cover.There is 5 clamps .Top of air filter will come off with it.Pick up air filter housing,and solf air hose.Set aside.You will see a black cover with 2 cross screw made out of plastic.Take off cover.and there you are.Do other side.
It really is not too difficult. I assume you have a six cylinder engine like mine. The slight difficulty I had was removing the spark plug wires. The plugs are deep in there so the wires have a long metal end. When I removed the first one it broke off at the meeting of the rubber and the metal. I ha…d to buy a new set- not cheap. $75 at Auto Zone. Beyond that, the job is easy. Access is very easy. It has an aluminum head so you must use an anti-seize lubricant on the new plugs before you put them in. (MORE)
Pop off your seat and the plastic around the tank. There's one bolt holding the tank in, remove it. The tank should slide back to you and come out. Set it to the side and the plug wire is right on top of the head. Pull it out then grab your socket and extention and you should be good to go. It's pre…tty easy once you do it. (MORE)
You will need to know what engine you have. 4.2 L V6, 4.6L and 5.4L V8. Buy spark plugs before you want to do the work so that engine has cooling time. Each engine size uses a different spark plug size. You will need a spark plug socket (start with 13mm), torque wrench, ratchet, extension, and spark… plug gap gauge. Remove one spark plug wire from plug, pull only on the boot and one at a time. The spark plug should be gapped the same as the one specified on the Emissions Control Information label. 2000 and newer come with individual coil packs that need to be removed to get to the spark plugs. Use compressed air to move dirt and debris away from the plug hole. Place the socket over the plug, turn it in a counterclockwise direction to remove. Apply a small amount of anti seize compound to the threads,on the new one, place back into hole and place a new wire on the plug. Repeat until finished. Replace every 60,000 miles/48 months. To remove the coil pack, disconnect the electrical connector and remove the coil pack retaining screw and pull straight up and out to remove the coil pack. (MORE)
\nI would take a few of the plugs out of the engine and check them for wear. You might not need to replace the plugs because of the efficiency of the electrical system. You might just need to clean your plugs and re-gap them.\n. \nIf you do need new plugs:\n. \ngo out and buy 16 brand new plugs …for the car,, there are 2 plugs per cylinder. The parts store will have the info for the right size. Plugs in these cars should last a minimum of 25,000 miles.\nGet a proper plug socket and make sure your socket slides all the way down so you don't break the ceramic insulators. \n. \nI like to rub a very very small amount of an anti-seize grease on the bottom of the plug's threads...it helps when you need to remove the plugs later. Always hand screw the plugs in as far as you can before using the socket on them. Again, spark plugs are fragile and break easily.\n. \nIf you're asking this question, I assume you're a newbie at this. Remove a plug wire at a time so not to cross wires...which is hard to do, but not impossible. And don't man handle the plug wires...they're silicone and can break easily, which will make your car idle like a tractor. And lastly, make sure the car is cold, otherwise you'll sear your hands. (MORE)
The plugs on the driver side are fairly easy to get to with your hand if it is up on a rack. They are right next to the exhaust manifold. The passenger side is much more difficult. The furthest forward plug is right behind the power steering. Which means you have to take off the alternator and the p…ower steering pump. I suggest putting in some long lasting plugs like iridium plugs. While you have the power steering pump off you might as well change the plug wires and put slightly larger wires on. The wires attach to the distributor just aft of the water pump. Would not suggest changing the distributor, it requires taking off the water pump which means gaskets, etc. (MORE)
On the top of your engine is what looks like a cover (coil cover) with 6 10mm bolt heads. Across the back is your air intake coming from your air filter. Remove this and temperature sender, located on drivers side, where air intake is attached to engine, and it will expose the coil cover of your eng…ine compartment. Remove the 6 bolts. Remove this cover, exposing your spark plugs and coils. There is one coil for 2/ea spark plugs. Going on line, you should be able to shop around and buy the coils and plug wires for at least 50% less than at automotive stores or MB. Be careful on removal and installation that you don't break the plugs. I suggest if this is your first time, have the new plugs, wires and coils at hand before starting and as you remove a set, replace them immediately so you won't forget how you took them out. A cool car would be suggested starting this procedure, as it will be very hot in that location. Installation is reverse of removal of course. I hope this was helpful. (MORE)
It depends on what car or engine you have to decide how many. No diesels don't have spark plugs. Some have glow plugs. Not the same thing. Glow plugs are used to heat the cylinders. For quicker starting. On certain old diesels, yes. For example the IH farm tractor model M diesel made in the 1…940's started on gasoline (with spark plugs) and switched over to diesel when the engine was warm (spark plugs not used at this point). That is true. But I didn't think about them. Most people today have never heard of a system like that. There was also engines with pony motors used to start the main engine. I learned the hard way. Not to stand in front of the arm. When you start the main. They can kick you. (MORE)
Very easy. Jack up the car on the left side and the park plugs are an easy access on the left side of the motor. Unplug the spark plug wires (make sure not to mix them up when reconnecting). Use a spark plug socket to remove them and replace them.
Get the proper replacement wires. One end goes on the spark plug and the other goes on the distributor cap. They are connected to the distributor cap in order,so do not place one out of sync.
Why Spark Plugs are Changed . Spark plugs are changed because they wear out. There are three factors affecting the wear of a spark plug : . The very high voltage electrical spark actually "wears off" the electrode metal, albeit only a very little each time it fires. . The burning fuel, and comb…ustion by products can erode/wear the electrodes. . The combustion by products AND lubricating oil residue can build up on the electrodes causing the plugs to misfire . There may be some other reasons which don't come to my mind at the moment. (MORE)
It is located next to the fuel pump under the car near the fuel tank (the car needs to be lifted) It's cover is held in by 3 screws. . Note: According to TSB Order No.: P-B-47.20/17 of October 10, 2001 If you encounter instances of hard starting after fuel filter replacement on the subject models, …the cause may be the newly installed fuel filter. On fuel filters with integrated fuel pressure regulator, part number 002 477 30 01, insufficient fuel pressure may be caused by deviations in manufacturing of the filters, resulting in an increase of crank time. Only filters with a production date between 27.06.2001 (06/27/01) and 17.07.2001 (07/17/01) may have this characteristic. PDC stock has been purged of any affected filters. (MORE)
You need to disconnect the air filter which runs over the top of the engine, disconnect it a both ends, the one with the clips and the one with the jubilee clip, remove ends of contact and slide the pipe to the left carefully so it's not attached to the engine. Take an Allen key and remove the th…ree large bolts on the top of the engine, these have the holder on them for the air filter. Under the plate you should have 2 large coil packs and 2 HT leads. Remove the nuts holding the coil packs down and underneath you will have spark plugs, carefully unscrew them using a long socket with a rubber bung in it so you don't drop the plug once its been loosened. Hope this helps. Just done this today! (MORE)
The easiest way is to buy OEM (Original Equipment) replacement wires, and replace them one wire at a time. If you do it this way you won't have a problem with the firing order. 1. Remove one of the old wires and match it up with a new one of the same length. 2. Replace that old wire with a new one.… Repeat the above steps for each remaining wire. Pick up a set of spark plugs at the same time, and ask the person behind the counter to set the gap on them for you. Replace these as you replace the wires. Snug each plug in and give it a quarter of a turn to tighten it in. DON'T OVERTIGHTEN!!! The engine will expand and contract as it heats up and cools off, and the plugs will become tighter when this process happens. If you tighten them too much at the start you will have a terrible time changing them the next time around. (MORE)
First I would ask what year and engine seize, either way I remove the washer take on the drivers side giving you plenty of room to get in their and on the passenger side I remove the whole air box
First, any time you put a new spark plug in, even if they tell you that they are pre-gapped always check them. There are different tools available, the simplest of which use wire of different gauges to measure the gap and one or two small notches in the tool for grabbing the spark plug tip and b…ending it to get the right size gap. One of these tools is round with wire loops around the edge and the other is like a set of feeler gauges with each gauging wire on its own swing-out arm. At the correct gap the gauging wire should slip in and out of the gap with slight friction, not freely. When bending the tip, do it carefully. It should barely move. (MORE)
You have to take the gas tank off then you should be able to reach it\
Any automotive mechanical shop. Expect to pay at least $75 though, depending on your engine make and model. The shop will likely suggest that you replace the spark plug wires and distributor rotor as well, and sometimes the distributor cap itself. This is normal and usually good advice but not 100% …necessary if you're on a tight budget, the choice is yours, don't be pushed around. Beyond that, be sure to get second, and even third, opinions about any extra repairs, like brakes or mechanical repairs, that the shop may 'suggest' needs to be done. (MORE)
Disconect all wiring from fuel rail and battery negative and then you will have to unclip the low presure fuel supply on top of injector the undo nut on side of injector then there is one bolt securing injector in place take out and wolla might be a bit stiff but it'll come out.
You change plugs because the continual sparking erodes the electrode, which slowly retards the ignition timing, which then makes the engine run inefficiently,
It doesn't matter which one u change first. Just take ur pick and have at it
Changing the spark plugs in a Mercedes w208 320 1999 only requires two tools to be used. The first tool is a 3/8 wratchet that has a short extension and the second tool part is a universal socket. Attach the universal socket to the spark plug socket and use the wratchet to loosen each spark plug. Us…e the same tools to tighten the new spark plugs into place. (MORE)
The spark plugs on a 1998 Mercedes Benz E320 are changed by removing the cover plate, disconnecting the plug wires, and unscrewing the spark plugs using a deep wall socket. New plugs are then put in place and torque down to specifications.