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ON EITHER SIDE OF TRUNK CONPARTMENT YOU WILL SEE A CIRCULAR SHAPED ACCESS TRIM,THROUGH THERE A PLASTIC SPEED NUT CAN BE SEEN,UNSCREW AND GENTLE PULL BACK THE LENSE (TOWARDS THE OUTSIDE ,THE TAIL LIGHT ASSEMBLY SHOULD FOLLOW,UNSCREW LIGHT SOCKET AND CHANGE BULB.

To elaborate on this, there is a clip on the inside edge (toward the hatch lid) that will let you pull the light assembly out. Put a small skinny screwdriver under the rubber gasket at the point that the two fender pieces join and push firmly. This will pop the clip and the tail light assembly can be pulled out.

Props to http://www.myvwlemon.com/ubb/Forum3/HTML/000245.html for this hint.

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Q: How do you change the tail and brake lamp assembly on a 1999 VW Beetle?
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