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How do you clean dark green water in a swimming pool?
ou may be able to go to a local farm store and talk with them about copper sulphate Dark green coloring is usually caused by algae. Get some algaecide from your pool supplier. It will kill the algae and cause it to sink to the bottom, allowing you to vacuum it up. If you are just opening the pool and haven't filled it up....empty it and start over. If that's not an option the use 3 or 4 bags of shock, plus 2 or 3 chlorine tablets, put it in the water let it settle, maybe 2 hours, vacumm the pool, back wash the filter when your done. See if its better, if not wait until the next day put another back of shock in , vacumm, and back wash again. if your pool is green(algae), first treat it with either Clorox bleach or chlorine granules, depending on the size of your pool. once the green fades to a light green to yellow, empty the pool. prefered method is pumping into a storm drain or sewer. again, your pool size plays an important part on how to treat your pool's algae problem. be very careful on skin contact with the green and then the treated water.you may get in contact with some harmful diseases. rise skin with clean water then with an anti-bacterial soap.
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Not effectively. You should test the water first, then stabilize the Ph before adding anything. Bleach is basically chlorine and will kill some bacteria, but it fades quickly… in a pool with low or high Ph, or sun, or high use.
Chlorine is generally added to swimming pools and other water attractions in order to keep the water clean. Doses of chlorine typically come in small tablets.
I purchased a 12x30 vinyl pool from walmart The pool was clean I covered it and went of vacationNow I have dark green water. Nothing is sticking on the sides What do I do?
green pool SHOCK IT,ADD ALGAECIDE AFTER IT HAS A BALANCE OF 5 CHLORINE LEVEL,....CLEAN THE FILTER REPEATEDLY DAILY,...BRUSH YOUR POOL TWICE A DAY,....CHECK REGULARLY WI…TH A TEST KIT,....KEEP SWIMMING TO GET YOUR CHEMICALS TO AIRATE AND WORK.....YOU HAVE TO KEEP UP WITH ANY POOL BUT IT SURE IS WORTH IT,HAVE SOMEONE WHO KNOWS POOLS TAKE CARE OF IT WHILE ON VACATION AND LET PEOPLE SWIM IN IT WHILE YOUR GONE TOO,THAT STIRS THINGS UP FOR THE FILTER...G-LUCK! If you want to hurry the process just cast some flocculant onto the surface of the water this will force the algae to the bottom after a couple of days then vacuum the bottom layer of the water to waste. Your pool shop should be able to give you advice on this.RB
Just about any mosquito can breed in swimming pool water, whether it is clean or not, including Aedes and dengue mosquitoes. Mosquitoes require stagnant water in which to …lay their eggs.
NO NO A LITTLE BIT of algae isn't going to hurt you. If you ever swim in a lake, river or ocean, there's algae present there. You probably even carry the algae home on your sw…imsuit. But the pool needs to be treated as soon as you notice it, since a pool doesn't have the properties of moving natural water to keep the algae under control. It's an ongoing battle to keep enough chlorine in the water to avoid algae, while not putting to much chlorine. The EPA states the limit of chlorine exposure to humans should be no more than 4 parts per million. So don't just dump load and loads of chlorine in to solve your problem. A retail pool store can test your water and advise how much chlorine and/or algaecide is needed to get rid of it. You may need to get the chlorine up to 5 ppm to kill the algae. Just wait until the level drops below 4 ppm before you swim again.
To clean murky and green pool water, follow these steps: 1. First and foremost make sure you have good flow. Clean your filter and all your baskets. 2. Next, balance your …water. If your alkalinity is low, you are running the risk of staining your pool. 3. Then, use a algaecide and shock your pool. When you purchase the algaecide ask someone that works there( or read the directions carefully). The ones that have been found to work best require you to shock with the treatment. 4. After that, run your filter 24 hours and test it again. The algaecide will bring your chlorine level down so you must make sure it does not get too low. At this point your water may be cloudy or you may have a lot of dead algae on the floor. 5. Vacuum up that algae and clean that filter out. If the water is cloudy use the directions below they are great! Just keep cleaning that filter out until that water is clear. Another effective way to solve this problem, using the cartridge filter, is this: 1. To kill the algae, use lots of chlorine, algaecide etc. 2. Coagulate the dead algae into large clumps. Pool supply stores sell a spray coagulator that attaches to a garden hose. Spray it over the pool and let it sit overnight. 3.Add diatomaceous earth to the filter. This white powder is sold in pool stores and used to be necessary before cartridges became affordable. Add a lot. This coats the filter and makes it impermeable, even to algae-sized particles. 4. Run the vacuum and filter till pressure exceeds 35, then clean. Cleaning the filter causes a flood of the white earth to run off, so pick a good site. I bring mine to the car wash and clean it with the rinse pressure hose. 5. Repeat steps 4 and 5 until the pool is clear. This works, and you don't lose pool water, but here are a couple of points: 1. Prevention is best. Keep chlorine levels over 2ppm, use algaecide, even when the pool looks good. 2. The cartridge filter rarely survives. Once the pool is clear, buy a new filter and throw out the old one. Here is more advice and knowledge from Wiki s' contributors: First off you need to shock the pool. I recommend buying granular chlorine (normally about $5 for 2lbs) and mixing it with water. It is much cheaper than buying liquid shock. Add 2 tablespoons of glandular to one gallon of water and dissolve it. Broadcast around the pool, then run the filter for 48 hours. If algae is present, use a copper algaecide to rid the pool of the growth before shocking. Over chlorination will not cause algae growth. Period. Have the pool tested for phosphates. In many cases, this causes repeated algae growth. Then triple shock with 3L liquid chlorine per 10000L pool water. You have to add enough chlorine to kill all the algae and leave a bit of chlorine left over. Once the dead algae settles to the bottom, vacuum to waste. Heavily shock the pool, depending on how many gallons your pool is, preferably using liquid chlorine. Do that every other day until the algae is gone. Clean your filter at least twice a day if using a cartridge filter and backwash once a day if using a D.E. filter. You can also re-filter the pool or have a professional clean the pool. Alternative Methods and Technology Over the last four or five years we have been substituting an electronic purifier for chemicals. Chemicals in the main are old technology, are expensive, and if you are in a pool for a long time, you can get itchy skin and sore eyes. A company called Care Free Clearwater produces an electronic purifier developed by NASA. For us, it has worked very well over the years. We have not had any problems with "green" pools. It's true that too much chlorine does not cause algae growth, but there is a better and safer way to clean a pool. Advanced treatment options, such as ultraviolet technology, provides a greater destruction rate of bacteria, algae, virus and germs than any chemical treatment. Recent studies by the World Health Organization recognise UV as the only treatment option that kills the algae, bacteria, and virus without the harmful chemical side effects. You can reduce chemical use by as much as 95%. Science has provided a better way than using salt systems, chlorine, triple shock, and Muratic acid that is well worth looking into. It's true that too much chlorine will not feed algae, but too many chloramines, which is dead or dormant chlorine, absolutely can and will. When triple shocking with chlorine, you must understand that you can only do it to 10 times your chlorine level. If your chlorine level is 2.0 ppm, you must add enough chlorine to reach 12 ppm, or you are wasting time and money, and adding to the phosphate levels, which is algae's primary food. Ultraviolet is an awesome addition to any chemical, whether chlorine, bromine or salt. The key word is addition. Used as a stand alone sanitizer it will not recover quickly enough to kill bacteria in the water if you deplete its residual, which is like one person getting in a 500 gallon hot tub for 15 minutes and urinating once. Under those conditions, ultraviolet is no longer effective for quite some time. Also - Algae will eat up any chlorine added to the pool. Many pool owners do not check for the stabilizer(conditioner) readings in the pool. Use a test strip that will read the conditioner level in the pool water. A low conditioner level means that the chlorine in the water has nothing to "bind" to, or is not "stabilized". Low levels of conditioner will cause the chlorine in the pool to disipate in a couple of days, no matter how much chlorine you add. Another way of doing this is to add a specialty chemical designed to clear up the water in your pool. One such product is 'Clear Cloudy Pools' From Technical Pool Solutions. This product is really amazing all you do is add 1 oz per 1000 gallans and it is non-chlorine based and doesn't require that you shut down your pool. Unless of course it is too dirty to be open in the first place. This product removes all the particles from the water that are making your pool cloudy and drops them down to the main drain. Simply run your vacuum or main drain continuously until the particle have been removed. The first thing you do is try to shock the pool with chlorine this can sometime work well enough to fix the problem. Make sure that you brush hand vacuum (to Waste walls and floor of the pool after the dead algae has settled to the bottom.If that does not work try the same procedure with the aid of an algaecide. Follow the instructions on the container and mention to the pool shop where you buy it what you are doing You will be surprised how keen they will be to help you.If that still does not work you may need to get a floculent or clarifier to sink all of the algae to the bottom and then vacuum it to waste, once again get your pool shop to advise you regarding the floculents available in your location
This problem plagued me for 4 weeks until I finally found a knowledgeble person to help me. Use this technique and you can clean a heviliy algead pool in 3 days. … 1st get your water chemistry balanced with a high PH and nominal chlorine level 2nd. turn off your filter. 3rd. Add Aluminum sulfide (alum) to your pool. This is a coagulant that can be purchsed at better pool supply stores. IMPORTANT: do not run the filter! 4th. wait at least 6 hours with the filiter off. 5th. add water to pool positioning the hose end in the skimmer recess and raise the level to the top of the skimmer port. Your water should now be clear, but you have a lot of dead algae on the bottom of your pool. Don't be mislead into thinking your pool filter will clean it out -it will not. This junk must be vacuumed to waste. 6th. Plug the vacuum hose into the skimmer port (keep the filling hose tucked into the skimmer port next to the vacuum hose). 7th. set your filter to waste and begin vacuuming. Make an effort not to stir up the debris as you vacuum, this is hard but with practice you will get the hang of it. 8th. Vaccum as long as you can still see what you are doing (with severe silting it is inevitable that you will stir up dead algae and no longer see the pool bottom). Because your garden hose is tucked next to the vacuum port you should be able to safely vacuum until the water level is no more than 18 inches below the skimmer port. 9th. stop vacuuming and turn the filter off. It is o.k. if your water looks green again because of the stirred up algae. Leave the filter off!!! also leave the vacuum and garden hose in place and bring the water level back up. 10th. repeat the vacuum and fill process 3-4 times or as needed. you can add chlorine during this process, but do not run the filter as it will only stir up the water again. Use a brush to get isolated pockets of debris as needed. 11th. When the debris is off the pool bottom AND your water is clear you are now ready to shock and add PH increase to your pool and begin operating your filter at normal intervals. This technique requires a good deal of new water and vacuum time, but it works great. I can't stress enouph about avoiding any method that involves the filter to clean dead algae. The dead algae particles are just too small to be trapped in the filter, be it DE or sand. Hmm, I don't know if I'd go thru all those many steps.. But if you are cleaning a total swamp maybe you have to. Why won't you simply clean or backwash filter, adjust your pH, add about 4 gallons of chlorine 12% run the filter 24/7. Next day b/w filter, maintain high chlorine and by end of 2nd day you should be able to see the bottom of the pool if not sooner. As you make more progress with water clarity you may be able to cut the run time back considerably. From there it should be even simpler. Green algae is a common swimming pool problem, which may appear as a greenish growth on the floor and walls of a swimming pool, a green tint to the pool water, or greenish material suspended in the pool water. The only swimming pool chemical that will kill an algae growth is chlorine based swimming pool "shock". Shock is a granular form of highly concentrated chlorine, which quickly raises the chlorine level of the swimming pool water. The elevated chlorine level makes the pool water conditions unlivable for anything organic, and algae quickly dies. Brush the walls and floor of the swimming pool to remove as much of the algae as possible. This will greatly reduce the amount of time it takes to kill and clear the algae bloom. Crystal Clear Pond Water Remove Algae, String Algae, Green Water in Mins Watch Fantastic Video Hydra-Aqua.us/Best_Prices Ensure that the pH level is within the range of 7.2 - 7.6. This will ensure that any chlorine added will work more efficiently - high pH levels in particular will impair the efficiency of the chlorine doing its job.With the pool filter system running, add a chlorine based swimming pool shock at the rate of 1 lb. per 7,500 gallons (or follow the pool shock manufacturer's dosage suggestion for killing algae). The pool filter system should continue to run 24 hours a day. If the condition of the swimming pool does not significantly improve after 12-24 hours of filtering, add a second dose of chlorine pool shock at the increased rate. Repeat this process until the algae has been eliminated.Once the algae is dead it will turn a white or grayish color, and it will be suspended in the pool water or settle to the floor. When there is no longer any sign of the color green in your pool, thoroughly vacuum the swimming pool. It is recommended that you vacuum dead alge to waste and not through filter.The pool filter should be backwashed or cleaned to be sure that dead algae is not trapped inside the filter. If the filter is not thoroughly cleaned the algae may quickly return. Test and balance all of the pool chemical levels using the following guidelines. Free Chlorine: 1-3 ppm, pH: 7.2 - 7.6, Alkalinity: 80 - 120 ppm and Calcium Hardness: 200 - 350 ppm. Begin adding an algaecide pool chemical on a weekly basis to prevent algae from returning.
Pour in a gallon jug of algecide and increase the amount of chlorine you use and run your pool's filter at least 6 to 8 hrs a night. Will clear up in a day. Of course th…is info depends on size of pool, but the average 16,000 gallon pool will clear up.
Above ground pool cleaning on liner. What is the best way to remove algae stains from the pool liner? Empty the pool, use a soft brush, mild detergent and water …to remove algae stains from the pool liner. Thoroughly rinse and dry before refilling or storage. More pool ? http://www.intexstore.com/FAQGeneral.aspx http://www.air-inflatablepools.com
If your pool water turns green after it is shocked with chlorine, it is too basic. Algae can thrive there now and it is green. Add pool acid (it may require several gallons) a…nd check the pH of the water frequently, adding more, if needed. If it gets too acidic, you can add some baking soda (which is basic) until you reach the desired pH - slightly below neutral. Neutral is pH7.0 answer : if you used well water you have metals in your pool take a test water sample to your pool dealer and have it checked for metals and he will advise what to do next
Answer It may not be the "metals". How long are you running the filter and pump? When was the last time you cleaned the filter ( the large tank)? Have you added …chlorine in large enough doses? Have you adjusted your pH to the right levels? k
You need to use algecide and liquid chlorine. Follow the dosing recomendations for your size pool. Also make sure your filter is clean or it will recontaminate the pool. If …the above fails, Drain the pool (unless it is vinyl) pressure wash all the walls, floor, and steps. If needed, acid wash the surfaces. (research this, recommend having professionally done) refill the pool, re-balance the chlorine, acid, and conditioner. Restart the equipment and enjoy your new pool.
You need to shock it and test the pH. there is a product called shock it especially for that. If it keeps getting green even after put chlorine in it you need to adjust the pH….
No, the water is dirty. It can make you sick. Wait til the pool is cleaned before going in.
wash it with shampoo and conditioner
Pools are usually sanitized with chlorine which kills bacteria and other pathogens. ready made stabilized chlorine products are available to do this. If you have a salt water …system you will need to add stabilizer to maintain chlorine levels in the pool Algaecide's prevent many types kinds of algae from getting hold in the pool. These preparations come ready made in a bottle with instructions on their use. Most pool shops have water testing facility's that Analise samples of water that you bring in. Many of them offer this service free of charge and will also advise you on the materials required after testing. Keep an eye on the pressure gauge. when water pressure begins to build from the normal levels indicated by a clean, efficient filter and the higher pressure of a filter in need of cleaning. High pressure means clean the filter. not doing so means puting strain on the pump and the water circulation is reduced and the filtration system will not be able to keep up wit requirements. Find out what type of filter you have. I use NEW! A Natural Submersible Water Purification Ionizing Capsule that lasts for One Full-Year. It has been known for centuries that silver destroys bacteria and viruses, even those which are resistant to chlorine. Silver sulphate is frequently used in the antibacterial treatment of burns and open wounds and is even used to protect newborns. As is known by a variety of publications, silver ions sustainably strengthen the immune system of the human organism. the Submersible Ionization Technology' is based on the use of 5-essential minerals: Silver, Copper, Palladium, Zinc, and Carbon. The Ionizing Capsule lasts for 12 full months and does not require electricity, constant maintenance or special plumbing. Reduces the need for chlorine and other chemicals for pools, spas & Jacuzzi's. Imagine... A fresh water stream flowing through your back yard cascading into your swimming pool. Reduce your pool chemical costs by 30- 80% with the Time Release Submersible "ION" Generating capsule. How it Works: Copper/silver ionization generators release precise, monitored and safe concentrations of ionic copper and silver into water systems. Minimum active concentrations of copper silver ions is set at: 0.4 ppm-Cu²+ and 0.04ppm-Ag+. copper silver ionization technology control both the copper and silver values independently to deliver the best ionization process possible. Positively charged copper and silver ions travel within the water system to penetrate the biofilm. These ionic particles bind themselves to negatively charged microorganisms like Legionella. Once in contact with these microorganisms, the copper/silver ions attack in a multiphase process to disrupt the overall cell metabolism causing cellular lysis (death). Safe ionic concentration levels are maintained by monitoring the water system and thus offer additional long-term residual protection. Ionic copper/silver concentrations required for proper water ionization are