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How do you clear foamy water in your pool?
Adding Soda Ash can help eleminate foam....acid build up causes it
Try any of the commercial products on the market, normally called Foam Down, or Defoamer etc. They work well, but may not create a permanent fix.
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Answer You could, but you won't save money unless the bleach is free. Chlorine for pools is much more concentrated plus it has stabalizers in it. A: Clorox is 5% s…trong. Liquid Pool Chlorine is 12.5% May cost more but is much stronger and will take less to do the job. Liquid chlorine in any brand or strength will not have stabilizers in it. Those have to be added seperately. You can buy dry chlorine and that will have stabilizers in it. but you will not get the quick reaction for your algae problems with it. k
TANNING OILS, BODY OILS, SUNBLOCK, SOAPS AND HAIR CONDITIONERS, WAS THE ANSWER I GOT FROM THE POOL SUPPLY PLACE THAT I USE. SEEMS THE SOAPS BREAK DOWN THE OILS ENOUGH SO THAT …THEY PASS THROUGH THE FILTER AND THEY FILM UP ON THE SURFACE. IF YOU NOTICE THIS BUILD-UP IN AREAS OF YOUR POOL WHERE THE WATER MOVEMENT IS POOR THEN I'D RECOMEND TELLING EVERYONE TO RINSE OFF THOUROUGHLY BEFORE HOPPING INTO THE POOL "DIRTY".. Answer . We have just run into this problem as we were opening our pool. We accidentally put too much Algaecide in our pool. I know know from other sites that too much Algaecide will cause a pool to foam up.. On the down side, I am still looking for an answer on how to clear it up.. Answer . Well I have recently encountered this problem and was advised that it may be related to low PH level and that the water may be too soft and actually require rasing the hardness of the water.I don't thnk that soaps and tanning oils etc..would be the cause partucularly since in this problem the foaming occurs on the opening of the pool not in the middle or end of season. I have heard however that algaecides used in a previous season can actually contribute to foaming as well. I realize that once again this does not provide a solution but only a relative probable cause.. Answer . Make sure you tighten your hose connections. If your hoses are not tight air may slip in and create a foamy pool.. Answer . Foaming is caused by too much algicide. I put a full bottle in at the opening of my 28,000 gal. inground pool and found out I was only suppose to put 10 oz. There is no way to neutralize this you just have to wait for it to disipate.. ==Answer=. I had this problem with my inground pool. I purchased these things called "ScumBall" you can see the picture of them at http://www.intheswim.comimagescat_imageA2297.jpg they cured the problem pretty quickly, and cost around $10 for two. Answer:: It only goes to show as above . . . . . READ THE LABEL ON THE PRODUCT YOU ARE USING.. After all this time no one has suggested running the filter longer!
If your pool water is clear and there is no algae on the bottom I would suggest testing the pool water for metals. Sometimes the prescence of copper will give your pool a gree…nish aqua color. Another tell tale sign is if you shock your pool and it instantly turns a shade of lime green usually signals a metal issue. Copper can come from your heater (heat exchanger) so it would behoove you to make sure you keep your pool balanced especially PH and Alkaline levels as very low levels will eat copper heat exchanges causes them to shed the metal into the pool and leak. Other metals give off colors as well, such as iron-brownish red, manganese-pink, red, black or brownish black and cobalt red, blue, gray or black. Well Water, and a load of leaves that decayed all winter in the bottom of the pool are other causes of metals. Hope this helps. www.prospectpoolsllc.com/blog or www.prospectpoolsllc.com Or, if the water is clear and there is no algae on the bottom, an algae bloom is in the beginning stages. If you don't treat it soon, it will be considerably darker green the next day. Shock your pool with perhaps a heavier dosage than normal. Leave the pump on 24/7 until blue color has returned. Then backwash the filter, or if cartridge filter, remove the cartridges and clean thoroughly. For any pool-related questions, feel free to contact me at anjeli-klean.com
ANSWER: Keeping your pool clean and clear is all a matter of balance. Just enough sanitizer, enough water movement, the right pH and temperature, and regular brushing and vacu…uming. The two most important things to consider are sanitizer and water movement. Stagnant water breeds bacteria and other micro-organisms, which is fine if you are a pond, but not so desirable if you happen to be a swimming pool. Humans also introduce bacteria into the pool, as well as oils Use a sanitizer to kill the bacteria and help control algae growth. The most common sanitizers are chlorine and bromine based compounds. · Ideally, your pump should run for about 10 hrs a day. If all else fails, a coagulating agent, usually a polymer, can be used.
A general answer for a very general question: shock, brush, vacuum, and algaecide.
You need to add chlorine. I doubt in the above answer that chlorine will clear up a "blue water" situation. BTW, is the water or the pool surface - floor, walls etc - blue - t…here is a huge difference. The blue affect on the plaster could mean a greatly out of balance chemistry - pH and Total Akalinity. Never heard of the water turning blue unless there was an additive put into the pool that would purposely turn the water blue. If you're asking about the pale blue colour of swimming pool water, it's because water absorbs light. Light that is visible to humans comprises the seven colours of the spectrum. The light at the red end of the spectrum gets absorbed, but the blue does not, hence you can see it in water of sufficient volume.
You need to shock it and test the pH. there is a product called shock it especially for that. If it keeps getting green even after put chlorine in it you need to adjust the pH….
A popular product, especially where water is hard and contains Iron, is something called ferritabs. They were produced previously by Hydrology Laboratories, a division of Aqua… Clear Industries, in packages of 10 per box, and designed for sand filters or de filters. See the photo of the old tabs and packaging, this for de type filters. A regional supplier has purchased the rights to produce Ferri Iron Tabs so once again they are available. Ferri-Iron Tabs are water treatment tablets that help eliminate the discoloration caused by iron and manganese. They have been formulated for use in all filters EXCEPT diatomaceous earth filters. These double-action tablets have been formulated to help decolorize water that has been colored by IRON or MANGANESE. These discoloring insoluble materials are removed from the water by charge neutralization and flocculation. This non-toxic formulation is completely soluble in water and contains no caustic or corrosive chemicals, diatomaceous earth, alum or any chemicals that will alter the pH or chlorine level of the water. Directions: Make sure pool water has a pH of 7.2-7.6, and contains a measurable amount of chlorine by adjusting with chemicals as necessary. Chlorine will not effect the Ferri-Iron Tab action on Iron or Manganese. Make sure the pool filter is in good operating condition and has been turned on. Drop 1 tablet for each 3000 gallons of pool water into the skimmer basket. In large pools that have multiple skimmers distribute the tablets. For best results, add the required tablets over a period of a few hours. Keep the filter operating. In order to permanently improve the water quality, the filter must be thoroughly back-washed within 18-24 hours after treatment. In pools that have severe problems, repeat dosage and back-wash procedures after 24-48 hours. In order to prevent a recurrence, when adding make up water and 1 tablet for each 3000 gallons or less of fresh water.
Ad an algaecide
Not necessarily. If pool water has recently been shocked, the chlorine level may be too high to swim even if the water is clear. Shocking can result in 10 ppm or more of chlor…ine. The EPA deems up to 4 ppm as safe. Swimming occasionally in a highly chlorinated pool may not be an issue for adults. But excessive chlorine has been known to trigger asthma attacks in children. Also, you should rinse or bathe immediately after swimming to avoid irritated skin from the excess chlorine. A general rule for applying all chemicals to a pool is to wait a minimum of 3 hours before swimming. That gives the chemicals time to dilute and be distributed evenly in the pool. The exception to that rule is high chlorine, which is described above.
Keep the chlorine level consistently above 2 PPM and maintain the PH at 7.2. Keep your filter on constantly and back wash it as necessary until the water is clear. After that… always make sure that the chlorine is at least 1 PPM and always check the pH to make sure it is around 7.2. You can run the filter for around 2-3 hours every 8 hours and that should keep your pool clean. Hatawa
1. Vacuum the pool (to waste if you can) 2. Scrub the sides down with a pool brush (using a pool pole, don't get in the water) 2. Clean the filter. 3. Add algaecide. 4. An ho…ur later, add shock. 5. Filter continuously (24 hrs/day) for 3 days while making sure that chlorine level remains > 3 ppm. 6. Repeat steps 1-5 until water is clear. Depending on how bad the algae is, it may take up to two weeks to clear up. ...
1273 miles away and we have the same problem!!! how bizarre is that? I just bought 'SUPER FLOC OUT' for our pool...we had a major mudslide one stormy night (even running the …pump for week straight didn't clear it up). One quart of FLOC OUT for a 40,000 pool made the little particles of mud 'group together' so the filter could collect it - it's worked for us! XXXOOO MUD! With record rains this past May, a flood completely covered our in-ground pool, filling it with mud (and corn stalks, leaves, you name it!). It was so thick at the bottom that we broke two poles and a vacuum head! It was so turbid, you couldn't see the pool light - even at night. Because of high ground water, we couldn't drain the pool. Thanks to this site, I got an idea of what to do (there isn't a lot out there about muddy pools!) We have only had our pool for two years now, and I am not an expert. I also do not have any affiliation with any pool or chemical companies, but will share what I used and what I did. Step one: Tried to let the filter clean it. That was like spitting on a forest fire. Left the filter off for the duration. Step two: Vacuum to waste. I had to do it by feel since I couldn't see the vacuum head as soon as it broke the surface of the water. I did this for three days, refilling the discharged water each time. Step three: I tried a Sun flocculent product with disappointing results - but some results all the same. Used double the dose - two quarts for 30,000 gallons. More vacuum to waste Step four: I ordered extra strength flocculent (Water Warehouse). AMAZING results. I used four quarts for 30,000 gallons (Quadruple the dose). It still took several days of letting the mud settle, vacuuming to waste and refilling daily in between. Once the bottom was clean and I could see through the brown, we ran the filter. Step five: Treated the filter (sand filter)with a "Filter Helper" by Haviland. Used the whole container - dissolved and administered through the skimmer In three days, the water was crystal clear. Total duration for the ordeal: Two weeks. It would have been shorter, I believe, if I had had the extra strength flocculent up front. Thank you for this site! I couldn't have gotten through it without your advice!
Many common pool chemicals cause foamy pool water. For example algaecide. However, the foaming should not be excessive. If you have a lot of foaming, it could be due to a …hold in your return line.
The safety of a person swimming in foamy pool water is related to the reason the water is foamy. Chemicals in the pool may not be safe when treating for a time period afte…r added to the water. It is best to ask a person who manages the pool, identify why foam is present, and read all chemical warnings.
There are two nouns. Water and pool are nouns.