How do you connect a copper water pipe to a flex pipe?
The quick and easy way is to use a compression "Shark Bite" fitting. It slips onto the copper pipe and creates a tight fit. Then use a threaded or pex flex adapter for your for the connection.
Sweat on a male adapter to the copper pipe then just screw on the flex hose. You can also cut the pipe sweat on a tee then use a nipple and male adapter.
Sweat on a male adapter to the copper pipe then just screw on the flex hose. You can also cut the pipe sweat on a tee then use a nipple and male adapter.
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More than likely you'll have to cut the supply pipe off behind the valve or loosen the large nut on the valve which would release the valve from the compression ring...then just replace the valve, if that is what you are attempting to do.
Answer 1 . Until one or more licensed Plumbers contribute, I'll give it a shot. I suspect that local plumbing codes will specify which is accecptable. So, temporarily, my opinion follows. \n. \nOver the last 50 years, I have lived in three houses, all of which were/are 50 years or older. They all had 3/4 inch rigid copper water supply pipe systems, and all jionts were made with solder, including the underground service entrance lines. \n. \nIn my 64 years, I can recall only 5 leak failures, none of which were related to the soldered joints. Two leak failures in one house were due to the use of galvanized steel yard hydrant risers from the underground copper. The leaks occured at the bare steel where the galvanize was removed in cutting threads on the riser pipes, and in addition, the soil in that area was extremely acidic, and highly corrosive, resulting in "electrolysis" eating holes through at the threaded joint between the copper and galvanized steel.\n. \nThe second house developed leaks, three times, in the underground service entrance line, and analysis indicated that they were far from and not related to the soldered joints. Microscopic analysis of the holes, revealed that the holes developed from flaws in the pipe wall related to microscopic iron which got into the pipe wall during manufacture. It is interesting that it took 54 years for the flaws to corrode away, resulting in leaks. So, unless there is a code prohibition of solder joints in copper pipe for underground use, I suggest that soldering is fine, and braising would be an expensive overkill.j3h.
You can often find a modern connector such as Sharkbite or Qwest fitting to do this.
Answer . If you know how to solder, you could find a copper tubing-to thread conversion fitting at your local home center. simpler yet, just ask for a compression style fitting where all you'll need is a wrench.
Electrolytic action and if the galvanized is connected to Yellow Brass as opposed to Red Brass you have dezincification
I WOULD NOT I wouldn't I would use copper strictly The above is clearly opinion and not very helpful if you have existing PVC pipe or have an application which requires it. Try searching on "PVC to copper adapter", you should find many to various adapters and should be able to find one to fit your application.
First the pipe and cap must be dry. There can be no water the pipe that will be close enough to the joint to feel the heat. You will need Soldering Flux, Solder, Emory Paper and a hot Torch. Turbo Torch is a good one, if you use MAPP Gas. Sand the pipe with the Emory Cloth until it is clean and shiny all the way around. (The width of the cloth is fine.) Sand the Cap the same way. Put Flux on the copper pipe and inside the cap. Put the Cap on the pipe, push it all the way down. Take the torch and heat the cap on it's side in one spot while holding the Solder on the opposite side at the point where the bottom of the cap and the pipe meet. When the joint is hot enough the solder will melt and start to draw into the joint. After a few more seconds remove the heat and melt solder all the way around the joint in one quick motion. You can wipe the joint with a rag if you like to make it look better before the solder hardens. Don't use Nylon or any other cloth that might melt.
go to an exhaust shop and they will make one to fit, if you cannot buy manufactureres part
YOU thread or braze copper pipe. Copper tubling you solder, braze, flaire, compression ring, mechincal joints
Absolutely, positively, YES as both are non ferrous metals and there is no possibility of galvanic corrosion or electrolytic action taking place.. Presuming your taking about RED BRASS as opposed to Yellow
I've seen fittings for that situation in the plumbing section at home depot. Most hardware stores should have those fittings. I would be careful not to heat up the PVC too much if you're soldering to the copper. You could use copperbond epoxy instead of soldering next to the PVC.
Copper is used as hot water pipes because the copper will not corrode when the hot water goes through the pipes
You want to replace old lead pipe connected to cast iron sewer pipe with copper How do you connect the copper pipe to the old lead pipe or to the cast iron pipe?
When I have to connect copper to lead "D" I usually solder the copper to the lead or wipe a lead joint depending on the diameter To connect copper to cast iron ,.... If there is a hub I caulk the copper directly into the CI with oakum and poured lead (molten) OR one can solder / braze a female adapter fitting and screw the copper into a CI female fitting
With a propane torch. Heat the cap and remove all the solder and pull off the cap.
1- Soldering 2- Brazing 3- compression 4- flair 5- Mechanical joints 6- adapters to IPS system
Worked for me! I had to relocate a toilet shutoff valve and really didn't want to use a torch inside the wall, so I assembled and soldered as much of the assembly outside of the wall then made the final connection to the supply pipe using a sharkbite elbow. So far so good.
Because it doesn't rust, it doesn't break down, and it doesn't cause any impurities in the water. - More specifically, copper oxidizes into a stable compound, keeping it from corroding through. It also is naturally anti-bacterial. The most important reason,though, is that copper is easy to work and shape with hand tools, a necessity to fit pipe into places inside houses and buildings. Copper can be brazed into joints with hand equipment, and cut with a small tool, rather than a large pair of iron shears.
If the copper pipes are full and the water is trapped, the pipes will split at the weakest point when exposed to continuous freezing temperatures. A testament to the power of crystallizing water.
Because copper is a soft metal, and in pipes it doesn't matter. If a tap was made out of copper as you can physicaly bend it you would mess up your tap!. The reason it would mess up your pipes is because it filters the water through and it would strip all the copper of the taps and it wouldn't run anymore.,. Yes we are in year 8 at St Edmunds, and that automaticly makes us amazing :P. Jesse and JD
Copper is used as it is a very unreactive metal and it does not oxidise easily. it will not rust and is in more advanced terms non ferrous. It is also preferred by plumbers as it is easy to manufacture and shape as it is a soft metal
It is a flexible section of pipe in the exhaust system that helps absorb some of the engine vibrations.
\nAfter copper oxidizes it becomes verdigris, or green. Your pipes have just naturally changed color.
Copper is suited for pipes, but not for moulding into faucets as it's not strong. All faucets are steel, with a chrome coating.
Easiest way to connect lead to copper /brass is a wiped joint consisting 40 - 60 solder alloy as this gives a longer pasty range
Copper has several redeeming qualities. It last long, does notrust, and won't grow bacteria. It also does not interact withwater, making it good for pipes.
There are lots of ways.. Simplest way - flexible coupling with appropriate connectors at either end, usually a compression joint or push-fit barbed connection of different sizes for both pipes.
A dehumidifier is a device for the removal of moisture from the air. The copper pipe that is not connected is almost certainly a drain pipe. As the dehumidifier removes moisture from the air, it has to collect and then drain in some way. A drain pipe would handle the latter chore. Consult the manufacturer or a distributor for a manual or just some information.
First off... Is this a permanent connection or a temporary one? There may not be any one fitting that is designed to go from the pipe you have to the garden hose. You may need to use multiple pieces to achieve this. If it is only temporary I say put a compression fitting onto the copper pipe to make it a little bigger and then just get a small rubber coupling (like a *Furnco) and clamp it together. For a more permanent connection: Go to the hardware store and find a compression fitting that will fit the copper pipe that is compression on one end and threaded on the other. Than all you need to do it find an adapter to go from hose thread to whatever thread you put on the copper pipe. This may take two or three fittings to accomplish. If you can bring the two pieces to the hardware store with you there should be someone there that can help you find the right parts. *A Furnco is a brand of rubber coupling. There are other companies that make these, but Furnco is the best especially if you're dealing with pressure. Good luck!
C x M adapter C x F adapter PVC x F adapter PVC x M adapter or Thread if your really using "pipe" in lieu of "tubing"
Depends on the grade of copper dwv / m / l / k are in order from thinnest wall to thickest. If the water is public water system type m usually lasts 50 -70 years. If well water is used a lot determines its lifespan..... ph, iron, calcium, turbidity or abrasives. Every house in most cases has its own determining factors which are variable. . Registerd master plumber / gasfitter MD. & VA.
I had this dilemma happen to myself. There are two options to assist you. I purchased a small wet/dry bucket vacuum from the Home Depot $20 has plenty of power. Take a copper fitting like a coupler or 90' elbow and tape it around the vacuum hose. Place the fitting over the copper pipe and vacuum all the excess water out. You can hear and see the water hose pumping water. Leave it on for a while until it pulls the water from the lines. Now your ready to solder. Use lead free solder it works well to with a little water. Option two , they now sell fittings which require no soldering by Shark [brand name] sold at the home depot a really good product, just a little expensive.
That cant be done because as long as there is water in them the temperature of the pipe wont go up enough to allow the solder to flow. you have to remove the water.
Sweat a female fitting on the copper or use a compression coupling between the two.
Yes, copper pipes can burst when the water inside them freeze. This is because, when the water freezes, it expands with a considerable amount of force, against the pipe, bursting it.
Yes. Use a threaded fitting, male or female as needed on the copper and screw the galvanized into it. You must use a dielectric fitting to connect copper to galvanized pipe. If you don't, a galvanic reaction will occur and the piping will corrode and leak. You can use a Dielectric Union or a Threaded Brass fitting to join the two types of piping together. UNIONS can leak the best answer would have been a dielectric nipple
If the copper is big enough, you can treat it as if it were cast and use packing and sealant. If the diameters are too different, you can use a rubber coupling to connect the two.
You put Flux on the pieces to be joined to clean them and to help the solder flow. Solder for the joint and heat it with a propane torch. Clean both surfaces with steel wool or emery cloth, put a thin film of flux on both pieces, put them together. Heat the outside piece on one side only. After heating for a while, touch the solder on the opposite side from the flame. If it is hot enough, it will melt the solder and pull it around the piece to the flame. That means it is soldered all the way around the joint.
In some applications, copper pipe can be TIG or MIG welded to copper pipe or to fittings. One example might be in antenna construction, but this is not what we usually encounter. Normally we braze or solder copper pipe to other copper pipe. We can also use a number of mechanical connections like compression fittings. Flare fittings are an example of this.
First off, you should shut off the water source. Then you must drain the pipe. After that you can clean up the area to be soldered, apply some flux. Now you are ready to solder. The pipe doesn't need to be bone dry, since it will dry as you solder from the heat.
like galvanized pipe, brass or black iron with threaded ends have thicker walls and if you were to thread even type L/k copper the pipe wall thickness is to thin and would split . Most hosebibbs connecting ends are brass because its cheaper and stronger then copper to make.
Flare copper pipe and use a flared shutoff valve. If valve isn't flared, use an adapter fitting between copper flared pipe and valve.
Most places, a dielectric union will prevent the dissimilar metals from corroding. Some places, the water is so hard that even a dielectric union won't help. If I wanted to transition from steel to copper or brass, I would use PVC. Modern formulations of PVC are less likely to pose the hazards that the older formulation caused. There are some plumbers who have not kept current with latest industry standards, insult people and use bold font to try to make their point. They will be alarmists against using PVC because their information is based on older, outdated information. Please consult the attached link or search on the topic, yourself. . Today, plastic plumbing products designed for potable water applications are usually designated with either "NSF-PW" or "NSF-61" to indicate that the product complies with the health effects requirements of NSF/ANSI Standard 61 for materials designed for contact with potable water.. There are dielectric nipples rather then a union as unions can leak over time. Brass (Red ) is 85 % copper and 15% Zinc Yellow Brass is 60% copper 40% Zinc either one can be connected to copper BUT the coefficient of expansion per degree factor that has to be considered on hot water piping Galvanized can be safely connected to a brass valve with no problems such as Gas lines (Natural ) run out doors where rusting is encountered. PVC is carcinogenic , not recommended for hot water or high pressure, needs more supports and cannot come into contact with direct sun light thus You should seriously consider the source before you take any information of a site or the very least find out the actual qualifications of the person giving advice as your life may depend on it y
By calling a professional with the proper tools. There are several systems of PEX pipe connections. All require specialized tools to make those connections. The simple answer is a copper by PEX adaptor which every system of pex pipe has to make such transitions.
You should not connect a lead pipe to any pipe. Lead is not legal to be used for any pipe anymore. If performing a repair on a waste line lead and copper can be joined by a rubber coupling with steel clamping sleeve. Lead pipe CAN BE USED on acid waste systems and on existing waste, vent. Using "steel clamping sleeve" is really awful advice as steel being a ferrous metal and lead being non ferrous thus lead if under ground such as a lead bend or old shower drain can last almost 100 years STEEL buried under gound without being protected will last possibly 2-3 years Using a rubber coupling is worse then using duct tape as the "rubber coupling" when being tightened can crush the soft lead and your not going to get water tight integrity in case of a stoppage. Ideally a professional plumber would clean the inside of the lead pipe round it out and insert type "L" or "K" tubing and either lead wipe or solder the connection. Repair clamps are great for the unknowing who know they will do a inept repair and never come back to the job ALWAYS ask to see the Masters license of the person actually doing the job .. It is for your protection and remember when using ANY Franchise company your going to pay a lot more then using an independent as the self reliant contractor does not have to give "kick backs" to a franchise thus passing all these savings to the consumer
It is not the type of pipe that is important, it is what you are putting through it. Copper is commonly hooked to black pipe for gas lines. Black pipe for natural gas or propane and galvanized for water. Either can have copper attached to them. Due to the electrolytic decay caused by attaching dissimilar metals, you would need to use a dielectric union to connect galvanized steel to a copper pipe; otherwise the joint will rot away in a few years, assuming there is any moisture around the joint. Properly dried gases may not have this problem.
Yes! This can easily be done with a rubber pipe coupling bought at home depot.
Copper pipes are used for plumbing. They are usually in interior walls or the basement. Typically, at least here in the North east, you would try to keep them out of exterior walls to keep them from freezing.
You can use type ( M ) in Tulsa Oklahoma, but i always use type ( L ) easer to put together
Copper is a strong metal that will never rust. When dealing withwater, this is a must. (Teehee. I rhymed.)
It's ok as long as none touch each other. Use a coupling with plastic or rubber centre.