How do you install a grease gasket on an existing toilet?
The wax ring underneath it? Shut the water off, flush the toilet and let as much of the water go out as possible. Get the remainder out with a sponge or towel. Dip the water out of the bowl. Take the two nuts loose on the base of the toilet on either side at the bottom. Disconnect the water supply line also. You can just tip the toilet forward to get the old ring out and to put the new one in. There is still water in the bottom of the toilet so don't move it around a lot. Put the wax ring either on the floor around the drain or on the toilet. Wax side against the toilet and the black funnel into the drain. Lower the toilet back down making sure the bolts come through the holes. Stand over the toilet and put both hands on either side right behind the seat and put your weight on it. This will flatten the wax out and seal the toilet down. Now put the nuts back on the bolts and tighten them. Gently a little on each side until they are snug but do not over tighten them because the base will break.
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please provide information on how to replace/install intake manifold on 1979 jeep cj7
Answer . Drain the oil then jack the car up and unbolt the the oil pan and take the old gasket off. Take a razor to it if there is still some pieces of gasket material on i…t but be sure not to cut into the surface where the gasket goes on (the pan) be absolutely sure that you use gasket sealer (one coat on one side of gasket, one on the other) or it will not seal good. Then bolt it back up do not overtighten the any of the screws when the rachet gets a bit harder to turn STOP right there! It would be best to do this when you do an oil change
Answer . we need to know which gasket your talking about.. Gasket in a condesate pump
Answer . \nthere are several flexy toilet conectors available to buy so a toilet can be fitted in any position provided there is room for it
Answer . \nI believe it is bee's wax. I just installed a gasket in the small bathroom of my own home.
If you are installing a toilet on the other side of an existing cast iron wall drain what is the best way to tie it in?
moving toilet Two ways of doing it. If there is only going to be one toilet you can remove existing drain at a joint in the basement and reroute it. There is a rubber insert …available to make the change from cast iron to PVC. If adding a toilet, a saddle clamp can be used to make the change. This consists of a PVC piece that looks like a piece of pipe cut in half lenghwise that clamps around the cast iron and you remove the round section in the side of the cast iron. You can drill a series of 1/8 inch holes around the opening and remove the circle. Be carefful not to let the piece go inside the drain. Can be done, just needs some patience. There is no way to tie into the existing drain at floor level. If it is on a concrete slab, the only way is to cut the floor out, reroute the drain and patch the floor. Answer Tying in to existing lines is not as easy as you might think. Proper care must be taken to ensure that you have proper sizing of the DWV (Drain Waste and Vent) piping. A toilet requires a 3ï¿½ minimum drain and when connected to other pipes may require larger. The fixture Unit count must be made to ensure correct sizingï¿½ and 1 toilet does not equal 1 fixture unit. Venting requirements must be met to ensure that smooth flow occurs and you do not have long term plugging problems. Some jurisdictions require that you have a license to do any plumbing and some allow you to do it yourself under some situations. Check with your local building official. It is best to get a plumber to look at this also if possible. Most hardware stores have what you need to get the job done and with the proper sizing and venting in place the job is much like plumbing for your sprinkler system, basically glued joints. Best of luck
Changing toilet. You shut off the valve on the inlet pipe then flush the toilet. Now sponge the remaining water out of tank and bowl. Get an old towel to put under back of to…ilet and remove inlet pipe from both ends. Now unscrew the 2 (or sometimes 4) holding bolts on the base and the lift toilet off the floor. I always have an old cardboard box or similar to sit it on, as the wax seal will make a floor sticky. Remove the toilet from the room to make space for the new one. Fit a new wax seal to the flange on the floor and fit new mounting bolts if necessary. Now re-fit the new toilet onto the bolts and wax seal. Gently rock it to settle the seal down, then fit nuts on and tighten it down. I always fit a new SS braided supply tube rather than the grey plastic junk, this needs no sealant or tape, just tighten the bolts . This is NOT a difficult job, you don't need ANY special knowledge, just common sense. .
Answer 1 . If the toilet is conventional, the gasket is just sitting between the two.. 1. Turn off the water supply to the toilet. 2. Flush the toilet to get as much wat…er out of the tank. 3. With some old rags, sop up all the water left in the tank. 4. Loosen and remove two nuts and washers on the two bolts which secure the tank to the bowl. 5. Carefully lift the tank off off the bowl, and set it upside down on the floor. 6. Remove the old gasket from wherever it's stuck, and clean all fragment from the contact areas on both the bowl and bottom of the tank. 7. Install the new gasket on the bowl flat. 8. Remove the bolts and old washers from the tank, and clean the mating surface. 9. Install new washers on the bolts[they go inside the tank, under the bolt heads]] 10. Carefully set the tank atop the bowl, being very careful to get perfect alignment on the first try. 11. Reinstall the two bolts with new washers. 12. By hand very carefully reinstall the nuts and washers on the bolts, running them all the way up by hand. 13. With a wrench, very carefully final tighten the nuts, but not too tight as it is very easy to overload the china bowl or tank, resulting in breaking one or both, ruining the entire toilet assembly. The nuts don't have to be extremely tight just up snug so as to just slightly begin to compress the washers.
Assuming you have the plumbing in place, floor flange and supply line. You will need a wax ring to seal it to the floor flange. Install the two bolts on either side of the fla…nge. I usually put the wax ring on the flange and set the toilet bowl on it, but you can put it on the toilet also. Less chance of messing it up by putting it on the flange. With the wax ring in place set the toilet bowl straight down on the flange. Set the bowl first and attach the tank after you have it down and secure. Standing over the bowl you should be able to guide it onto the bolts which center it on the drain. Put your weight on the bowl over the drain to squash the wax ring and make the seal. Put the base of the bolt cover on and the nuts to hold the toilet down. Do not over tighten the nuts and go back and forth tightening each nut a little at a time. As soon as they get tight, stop or you might break the base. Put the foam gasket on the tank center hole and set it on the base. Install the two bolts that hold it down with a rubber washer under the head to seal the bolt. Again, tighted each a bit until tight. Install the supply line and seat and you are done.
Answer . No. The starter motor would gum up and be ruined within a short period of time.
wax ring on bottom leaking to the floor needs to be replaced if it is a leak inside the tank flapper needs to be replace this problem occurs a lot if you use Bleach in your… tank the rubber flapper gets soft
Actually, it's quite easy with a few precautions. First thing is to turn off the water supply, and disconnect the water line connected to the toilet. If the toilet isn't leaki…ng all that bad, after turning off the water supply, flush the toilet, and hold the handle down to allow as much water as possible out of the toilet as this will prevent a mess later when you remove the toilet. When removing the toilet to replace the gasket, be very careful with the nuts and bolts that hold the toilet to the flange. The Flange is the part that holds the toilet down to the floor, and connects it to the sewage pipe (the gasket is actually in between the flange, and the toilet). The nuts shouldn't be much more than "Just Snug", and hopefully once you've "broken" them loose, you will be able to remove them with your fingers without any tools. If the existing bolts are made out of brass, you are in luck because you can usually unscrew the nuts without any problems, and then simply lift the toilet up off of the flange, but if they were made out of steel, they are very likely rusty, and you may not be able to remove the nut easily. It's Okay if the nuts are a "little" too tight to be removed by hand, but they should be easily removed with a small pair of pliers. If this isn't the case, and it seems to take more than "minor" effort, I would recommend that you stop trying to unscrew the nuts because it's possible to damage the flange, and if the flange is damaged, it can be quite a job to replace it. If the nuts seem to be pretty hard to unscrew, it would be better to cut them off, and replace them, and actually they are very easy to replace so it may be better to be safe than sorry. The bolts don't have a normal bolt head, but instead have a special "T-Head" shape. The "T" fits into a slot in the flange which prevents it from turning when being tightened. That's why I recommend not attempting to use too much force to remove the nut because it can cause the "T" in the flange to break the flange. Don't worry about finding new hold down bolts because you can find them just about anywhere, and if fact, I've even seen them in the local Walmart. If you have to cut them off, you can easily do this with a cut-off tool such as a "Dremel" tool with a cut-off wheel, but if you don't have one of these, you can just as easily cut them off with a hacksaw. The only real precaution is to be carefull not to scratch up the toilet if possible. Once you have removed the nuts and any washers (or bolts if necessary), simply lift the toilet straight up off of the flange. What I try to do is to lift the toilet straight up, and then place the toilet in the bath tub to clean it up because when you lean the toilet in any direction, trapped water is going to pour out. Once you have done this, you will need to clean the bottom of the toilet, and the flange as much as possible. It doesn't really need to be spotless, but you don't want to leave anything that would prevent the new gasket from making a good seal. If you had to cut off the bolts to remove the toilet, now is the time to replace the bolts. If the existing bolts were made out of steel, I would recommend replacing them with bolts made out of brass because it may make your life a lot easier if you have to ever replace the gasket again. Some of the gaskets are made out of rubber, but most of the gaskets are made out of wax (at least down here in Texas), and may be referred to as a "wax ring". Both basically require the same precautions, so I will focus on the wax ring. Place the wax ring onto the flange, and then carefully lower the toilet down onto the flange (to make it a little easier, you may want to get someone to help guide the toilet down to make sure that the bolts are aligned correctly). Once the toilet makes contact with the wax ring, try not to move the toilet around such as side-to-side, twisting left or right, or by tilting the toilet in any direction other than straight down. Once the toilet is resting on the flange or now the floor, press down (again being careful not to move the toilet around) until it's resting firmly on the floor, and then place a washer, and nut on each bolt. Tighten the bolts snug, but be careful not to get them too tight because you can crack the base of the toilet if you get them too tight. Once I've done this, I sit down on the toilet to make sure that it's actually all the way down for a minute or so, and then I retighten the nuts once again while being careful not to overtighten the nuts. Replace the water supply line, and turn on the water. Once the toilet has filled, flush it a couple of times to make sure that there are no leaks.
Only if it is leaking there. They do sometimes, but not that often. If you have taken the tank off for some reason, you should probably go ahead and change it.
I assume you have a floor flange in place or are replacing an existing toilet. The floor flange is what the toilet bolts to that holds it down to the floor. Some older houses …use lag screws to hold the toilet down to the wood floor and in basements, lag screws and anchors are sometimes used directly to the concrete. If you have a floor flange, it should be at the level of the floor or up to 3/8's of an inch above it. This will allow you to use a standard wax ring to seal the toilet to the drain pipe. If the flange is below the level of the floor, use an extra thick wax ring or double up two regular ones. You want the wax ring with the black funnel shape piece of plastic imbedded in it. There is a slot on each side of the flange that will accept a bolt. Either 1/4 or 5/16 thick. Put the bolts in the slots on either side inline with the center of the drain. I usually put the wax ring on the floor and sit the toilet base over it. Lining the holes in the base with the bolts. Sit the base on the drain, straight down. With it in place, you should have to compress the wax ring some so that the toilet will sit on the floor. Grab the toilet on each side at the back where the seat attaches and lean on it with your weight. This will compress the wax ring and make the seal between the toilet and the drain. Push straight down without twisting the toilet. Install the washers and nuts on the bolts and tighten them carefully a little on each side until they are tight. Do not over tighten them because you can break the base. There should be a cap to cover the bolt with the toilet. Put the flat white washer on the bolt first, the metal washer and then the nut. The white washer has to go on the right way up so that the cup will snap over it. The edge is beveled and the slope on it should be downward like an upside down V. Now install the tank. There is a large black foam cone that goes over the center hole in the tank and seals it to the base. Set the tank in place and install the two bolts that hold it to the base. Use a rubber washer under the head of the bolt to seal the bolt to the tank. Bolts go in from the top. As with the floor bolts, tighten them a little on each side until the tank is tight. On most toilet bases, there is a small ridge in front of the hole in the back that the tank will rest on when it is tightened down enough. With the tank in place, install the supply line and the seat and you should be in business.
You install a grease trap in lieu of a standard trap and the discharge is connected to the sanitary system
You need at least a 3 in. pipe -- shower is 2 in. pipe