What would you like to do?
How do you produce 120V lines from 240V lines without using a transformer?
220 volt AC current is achieved by having two 110 volt lines with opposite waves or phases. One line will be positive while the other is negative then they flip or alternate 60 times a second (60 hertz). When connecting a volt meter to each of these lines it will read 220volts. Connecting a volt meter from either line to ground will read 110.
I don't know if your question is backwards, but in a home you shouldn't have any lines that read 220 volts to ground. In a business or shop there can be 240 volt lines which combined can make 480 for industrial equipment.
If your 220 is an older style and only has two hots and a ground (red,black,bare/green) you can't make a 110. If your 220 has 2 hots (red,black), a neutral (white), and a ground (bare/green), you can get 110 from either of the hots (black,red) to neutral (white).
Was this answer useful?
Thanks for the feedback!
If you live in Israel can you use a transformer to step down the 240V power to 120V and then use an American appliance or do you also have a cycle problem and if so can it be cured?
Yes, i have done two deployments overseas and both times used converters to step down 220-110. Just make sure it is a good converter. I recommend anything by radio shack. … More Answer Israel uses 220Volts at 50 cycles. You can use a step down transformer to step the voltage down to 120 for 120 appliances. 50 cycle power will cause many ac motors to run about 83% slower. Synchronous AC motors rotate at exactly the supply frequency, and mechanical clocks made for 60 cycles will run slow on 50 cycles, loosing 10 minutes every hour (or 4 hours every day). You cannot easily or inexpensively change 50 cycle power to 60 cycles. You can buy transformers at Radio Shack before you go, but if you have a problem it will be difficult to get to RS to exchange it. Transformers are heavy, and a big one can weigh down your luggage and airport fees can get expensive. Small ones, good for a radio or a very small appliance may only be a few pounds, but a large (1500VA) step down transformer weighs 20 to 30 pounds. They are also readily available in Israel, and any local or chain hardware store will have a selection. Many computers and monitors and many other small electronics will work ok on 220 volts. Read the label. My computer monitor says 110-220VAC 50-60Hz, as does the power supply for my laptop and the battery charger for my camera. For any of these I'd just need plug adapters.
A step up transformer is used on 120v line to provide a potential difference of 2400v if the primary has 75 turns how many turns must the secondary have?
The turns ratio of an ideal transformer is the same as its voltage ratio. In the case of your query, the voltage ratio is: Us/Up = Ns/Np So, Ns = Np (Us/Up) = 75 x (2400/120)… =1500 turns. Incidentally, the symbol for 'volt' is an upper-case 'V', not a lower-case 'v'.
Technology, current at the time of US electrification, locked the US into 110, then 120 volt outlets. Europe's electrification came later, and proceeded in response to adv…anced technology. The US was too deep into the 110/120 volt infrastructure to upgrade. The US has remained in this situation ever since. House voltage was first determined by Thomas Edison who set it for optimal performance of his equipment. Additional Information: The United States distribution system actually provides a 240 volt residential service in the form of two 120 volt conductors and a neutral conductor. You can see this if you look inside your breaker panel. When a load is applied from either 120 volt conductor to the neutral (as is the case for typical receptacles, lights, and so forth) it is using 120 volts. However, when a load is applied from one 120 volt conductor to the other, without using the neutral, the voltage being used is the sum of both 120 volt conductors (240 volts). This is the case for many water heaters, air conditioners, electric furnaces, clothes dryers, and so forth. So equipment that is connected to strictly 240 volts is connected with only a two wire cable plus a safety ground wire. (For example 240 volt base board heaters use this.) The only time a cable with three wires plus safety ground is used is if 120/240 volts is needed in the equipment. (For example kitchen ranges or washing machines which have time clocks or programmers that require only a 120 volt feed.) For systems outside the US, receptacles are 240 volts. Lower voltages tend to be safer, which is why in the US, you are receiving 240 volts at the home box and 120 at receptacles, instead of the thousands of volts generated by the power plant. Power is transmitted over High Voltage cables - usually above 10K Volts. The power is then stepped down before it reaches consumers. Outlet power in the US is 120 volts, increased from 110 volts sometime around 1950. The US system theoretically could be made as good or better than the European system with no infrastructure change, except appliances and consumer structures themselves (collectively costing home owners billions). US houses get 240 volts at the panel. If wall outlets all were fed with 240V you'd have the lower current and higher power advantage of the European system and it would be safer too, since each "hot" would still be only 120V from ground (not 240V) which keeps the reduced shock hazard advantage. Of course it is still possible to touch the two hots. ===== The origin of the 120 volt standard dates back to the feud between George Westinghouse and Thomas Edison. The first public electricity utilities were set up by Edison, whose concept was that there would be a power station (Coal fired) at the end of every street, supplying low voltage DC. Westinghouse came up with the idea of using AC, which can be transmitted over long distances from a small number of giant power stations. Edison worked to get the concept banned to protect his system by claiming that it would lead to the use of dangerously high voltages. The result of this public debate was that the US opted for the low voltage, but using AC as Westinghouse recommended.
Outlets and power (110V outlets and 120V outlets are practically the same for this discussion. I will refer to them as 120V. Same with 220V/240V outlets.) … For your 120V source I assume you plan to use a standard US 120V 15A outlet. This outlet can provide a maximum of 15A at 120V. This means the outlet can provide 1,800W of power. ( Volts x Amps = Watts ) This is the maximum amount of power this outlet can provide, no more. Also, this is assuming nothing else is drawing power off the circuit this outlet is on. If you try to pull 1800W from an outlet and plug anything else into this circuit, the breaker will blow. Your oven is designed to run off a 50A 240V circuit. Let's say, for argument, it draws 40A at 240V. This means your appliance requires 9,600W of power to run correctly. This is over 5.3 times the absolute maximum amount of power your 120V outlet can provide. There is no way you can run this appliance off this outlet. You have a larger problem here than the voltage difference. Proceed with EXTREME caution Probably not advisable. One of the way transformers are rated is by the maximum wattage the transformer can safely accommodate. Electric ranges (or any appliance used to heat or cool) consume much more energy and require a much higher wattage rating than most other appliances. Unless you know the wattage rating of your transformer and are certain it can safely provide for your electric range, you should NOT use a step-up transformer with your range. Bear in mind that the wattage requirement for any electric range may vary greatly from model to model and varies even more with the demand placed on the range. For example, wattage required by one burner set to 'low' is much less than the same burner set on 'high'. Even more current and wattage is required to run 2 burners, 3 burners, etc... As you can see, there are many variables. The safest situation would assume that the range will always operate at it's maximum capacity (i.e. All burners on and set to high, cooling fans set to their highest level, any light bulbs on, both upper and lower oven heating elements turned on if applicable, any other accessories turned on and operating at their highest setting) and therefore should have a transformer at least 20% higher in capacity than the range at maximum consumption. The maximum wattage rating of the range should be printed on the manufacturers label, the Underwriters Laboratories(UL) label, or in the product installation/owner's manual. If wattage is not specifically given then use this formula to calculate wattage: Watts= Volts x Amps. I think a good question to ask yourself before doing this is, "Am I cool with my entire house burning down?" If your answer is, "No." then you probably need to pay an electrician to run a proper 220/240v line. A modern oven/range combination can easily consume 12,000-15,000 watts. As a comparison, a large hair dryer can consume as much as 2,000 watts. A 15,000 watt step-up transformer easily costs over a thousand bucks. So, unless you happen to have one lying around it's probably cheaper to hire the electrician anyway. One last tip: If the transformer doesn't weigh over 100 pounds, don't even think about it. Transformers are heavy. The bigger, the heavier. Here's a good website: http://www.voltageconverters.com/commercial_transformers.html
Answer first off, the two 110v circuits would have to be from different bus bars in the breaker panel, one from the left bus and one from the right bus. if they …are both from the same bus you can't do it. if you count down from the top on one side of the breaker panel, every other single breaker space (they're numbered, 1,3,5,7... or 2,4,6,8...) is on the opposite bus, and the top breaker on each side is on the opposite bus. if you call the busses a and b then top to bottom on the left would be ababab... and top to bottom on the right would be bababa... if the two 110v circuits are from different busses, then the black (hot) wires from the two circuits would have 220v potential between them and the white wires (neutrals) would have no potential between them because they are connected to the same place back in the breaker panel, the neutral bus. if all you want is 220v, then the black wires would be all you need. it is a code violation to do this, however because an electrician or fireman has no way to know that he has to turn off two breakers to kill power to the one 220v device unless the two 110v breakers are together on the same side of the panel (ab or ba) and they are clearly marked on the legend as serving the same device.
Can a 120V UL rated dimmer switch be used on a 240V dedicated line that is providing power to a UK built light fixture that uses UK light bulbs?
Answer for USA, Canada and countries running a 60 Hz power supply service. . No. Do not use a 120 Volt rated device for 240 Volt service. All equipment on 240 volt cir…cuit must be rated for 240 volts. . Consider changing to a 120 Volt circuit and locating 120 Volt lamps with a base made to fit the fixture. I have several customers who have brought fixtures back from Europe and needed 120 volt lamps with a European base.. As always, if you are in doubt about what to do, the best advice anyone should give you is to call a licensed electrician to advise what work is needed. . Before you do any work yourself, on electrical circuits, equipment or appliances, always use a test meter to ensure the circuit is, in fact, de-energized. IF YOU ARE NOT ALREADY SURE YOU CAN DO THIS JOB SAFELY AND COMPETENTLY REFER THIS WORK TO QUALIFIED PROFESSIONALS.
Answer for USA, Canada and countries using similar 60Hz household electricity supplies This is not possible because a 120v switch disconnects one conductor while a 240v… application requires that both hot conductors be disconnected simultaneously. The proper solution is to use a double pole 240v switch of the correct size. It must have contacts which are rated to carry the appliance's starting and running currents (amps). A switch with under-sized contacts would be likely to get very warm - or even overheat - to such an extent that it might become a dangerous fire hazard. IF YOU ARE NOT ALREADY SURE YOU CAN DO THIS JOB SAFELY AND COMPETENTLY REFER THIS WORK TO QUALIFIED PROFESSIONALS. If you do this work yourself, always turn off the power at the breaker box/fuse panel BEFORE you attempt to do any work AND always use a meter or voltage indicator to insure the circuit is, in fact, de-energized.
There are 110 volts going to recepticles along the walls ect. These are for lamps, vaccuum cleaners, most things besides stoves, dryers, heating and cooling(most). But t…he only way to use your 110 volt outlet for a 220 is to combine 2 110 volt legs to make it 220 volt. Then you neeed to make sure your breaaker is capable of the increase.
Answer At the service panel (breaker box) you'll need a double-pole breaker rated for the dryer (probably 30 amp) and run two "hot" wires (red & black) usin…g 10/3 w/ground cable. The neutral (white) and ground (bare) are just like standard 120V connections.
How do you wire an existing 240V circuit line as the feed to a new subpanel with 120V circuit breakers?
Answer for USA, Canada and countries running a 60 Hz power supply service. Warning that must be heeded Firstly, you MUST have 4 wires run to your s…ub-panel. If the existing feed was 3 wire (two hots and ground) you cannot get 110 Volts off it safely. If this is in an outbuilding, you may be able to get away with it. There are many ifs to that (more than I can go into, or even know), so you must talk to a licensed electrician first. No matter what, if your existing circuit only has 3 wires STOP! You must pull new wire or at least talk with someone licensed. Also, this is a big job. You are adding a whole new breaker panel to your property. Are you comfortable doing this? If not, hire someone. If you botch neutral you can burn up anything plugged into it. If you botch ground you can zap yourself. Planning, planning, planning Now, first things first. What do you plan to power with this? What will you power with this in the future? You must sit down and answer these questions as they determine the size of box and current rating of the feed. Remember the golden rule, you want your expected load to be 80% of the breaker size. So if you plan to draw 24A or less you want a 30A feed. 32A or less on 40A, 40A or less on 50A, etc... Is the existing circuit big enough? If not, you need to run new wire. Also try to determine how many breakers you want to put in this. That will determine the physical size of the breaker box you buy. Installing something oversized now is easy. Upgrading an undersized sub-panel 5 years from now is not. How to install For the scope of this how-to you only need to buy a new breaker box and a clamp. I strongly recommend going with the same brand as your existing panel (if still available) so the breakers will be interchangeable. For a sub-panel you shouldn't run into current limitations, but check just to be safe. Home Depot and Lowes carry a line of 6 position Square D panels that are inexpensive and good for sub-panels. Also buy a clamp to secure the feed wire to your new panel. If this is in an outbuilding that does not have its own panel already, you will need a ground rod. Beyond that, it is all downhill from here. Steps to follow * Shut the outlet off. (If you needed me to tell you this, hire an electrician. :) ) * Remove the old outlet and box. * Mount the new panel and secure the wire to the box * Remove any bonds or screws that connect the neutral to ground. Neutral can only be bonded to ground in the main panel. * Connect the hot wires to the hot busses of your panel * Connect the neutral wire to the neutral bus. * Connect the ground wire to the ground bus. If this panel is not in the same building as the panel feeding it, drive in the ground rod and connect that to the ground bus as well. * Recheck the torque on the screws connecting the wires you just connected. They must be tight. That's it! Your panel is installed. Now it's just a matter of installing branch circuits, which is not within the scope of this how-to. Website How-to http://www.electrical-online.com/howtoarticles/subpanel.htm BCLEAR. Note BCLEAR's link seems to be gone. You can still find it in the way-back machine over at archive.org. I found it after 11/6/2005 in their archive. Take a look, it's a good article. As always, if you are in doubt about what to do, the best advice anyone should give you is to call a licensed electrician to advise what work is needed. If you do this work yourself, always turn off the power at the breaker box/fuse panel BEFORE you attempt to do any work AND always use an electrician's test meter having metal-tipped probes (not a simple proximity voltage indicator) to insure the circuit is, in fact, de-energized. IF YOU ARE NOT ALREADY SURE YOU CAN DO THIS JOB SAFELY AND COMPETENTLY REFER THIS WORK TO QUALIFIED PROFESSIONALS.
Get a step up transformer that converts 120 V to 277 V. Size according to the load.
Answer A "110" volt outlet cannot be converted to a "230" volt outlet. A 230 volt outlet requires a new wire run to the outlet rated for the appliance you p…lan on plugging into it. Example an airconditioner that requires a 220 volt 20 amp circuit would have to have a 12/3 w/ground wire run to handle the load. The three wire are usually black,red,white. Black is for 1 120 volt line, red is for another 120 volt line and white is for neutral. On a standard 120 volt outlet there are 2 colored wires (black and whtie) and a bare ground. It's not an easy solution, but it is the only proper solution.
Is it possible to use a 120-240V step up transformer with an electric range when a house is only wired for 120V and if so how?
You DO NOT NEED A TRANSFORMER!!! You Have 220 Volts Commint Into Your Breaker Box. Install A 50 Amp 2 Pole Breaker And Run A Circuit With 6 Guage Romex Wire To The Stove…. You May Need To Go Under The House Or Whatever To Reach The Stove But Do It This Way. Answer You won't have the capacity
It's possible. It's not right though. Run a separate wire for your 110v circuit. To follow NEC (National Electrical Code) guidelines you need two separate branch ci…rcuits: 240V and 120V. Each circuit should have its own breakers of the correct size. Wire sizes will depend on the length and ampacity of each cable. The outlet types required for each circuit will depend on the appliances to be served and, according to their locations, GFCIs may be necessary too. As always, if you are in doubt about what to do, the best advice anyone should give you is to call a licensed electrician to advise what work is needed. Before you do any work yourself, on electrical circuits, equipment or appliances, always use a test meter to ensure the circuit is, in fact, de-energized. IF YOU ARE NOT ALREADY SURE YOU CAN DO THIS JOB SAFELY AND COMPETENTLY REFER THIS WORK TO QUALIFIED PROFESSIONALS.
Answer for UK, Europe and countries running a 50 Hz supply service. There are quite a few appliances that use a 240V line. Air conditioners, fridges, washers and dryers all us…e the 240V line. Answer for Canada, USA and countries running a 60 Hz supply service. In North America only the larger appliances use 240 volts. The hot water tank, stove, range top, baseboard heating and clothes dryer are the main appliances that use the higher voltage.
The answer is possibly. There is no guarantee that the insulation designed for the lower voltage will be adequate at the higher voltage. The danger of electric shock should no…t be scorned. The cost of a new lamp is not daunting, and if the lamp is an heirloom item, then that value should enable the wiring and switches be upgraded. Don't take chances.
It depends on what the appliance is. Some smaller appliances have a dual voltage switch which allows you to adjust the appliance to the supply voltage. Look on the manufacture…'s nameplate label to see what they recommend as a working voltage. There it will also tell you whether the appliance can be used on another voltage source. ==== Yes, you can. But it will fail ("burn out") almost immediately. If it's one that accepts either input voltage or if it has a little '120/240' switch on it, and you flip the little switch to the '240' position, then you're no longer talking about a "120v appliance".