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How do you produce 120V lines from 240V lines without using a transformer?
220 volt AC current is achieved by having two 110 volt lines with opposite waves or phases. One line will be positive while the other is negative then they flip or alternate 60 times a second (60 hertz). When connecting a volt meter to each of these lines it will read 220volts. Connecting a volt meter from either line to ground will read 110.
I don't know if your question is backwards, but in a home you shouldn't have any lines that read 220 volts to ground. In a business or shop there can be 240 volt lines which combined can make 480 for industrial equipment.
If your 220 is an older style and only has two hots and a ground (red,black,bare/green) you can't make a 110. If your 220 has 2 hots (red,black), a neutral (white), and a ground (bare/green), you can get 110 from either of the hots (black,red) to neutral (white).
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How do you get 120V from a single circuit breaker box that has a 240V line coming into the box that has one black one white and one bare line?
The s given below are ONLY for USA, Canada and countries using similar 120/240 Volt, 60 Hz mains power supply systems. If the box has 3 wires at 220V you can't get 110V. The …reason is you have the two hots and the ground, but not the neutral. If you pull a neutral through the conduit or re-run the *-2 wire with *-3 you can get 110V at this panel. However, if you no longer want 220V at this fixture you can derate it to 110V. The key here is the current capacity of the old wire. You cannot exceede the current capacity of the wire as that is a fire hazard. Also the fixture must be on a dedicated circuit. You cannot mix 110 and 220, you have to derate the whole circuit. To derate: . Get a 110V fixture of equal or lesser current to the old one that you want to use. . Get a 110V appropriately sized for your fixture. . Remove the 220V breaker and replace it with the 110V breaker. The white wire that went to the breaker now goes to your neutral bus. . Replace the 220V fixture with the 120V. Always, if you are not 100% sure of what you are doing, buy a book. It will answer your questions and serve as a handy reference during the job. Do it right or hire a professional. Negligence is fatal with electricity. IF YOU ARE NOT ALREADY SURE YOU CAN DO THIS JOB SAFELY AND COMPETENTLY REFER THIS WORK TO QUALIFIED PROFESSIONALS. If you do this work yourself, always turn off the power at the breaker box/fuse panel BEFORE you attempt to do any work AND always use an electrician's test meter having metal-tipped probes (not a simple proximity voltage indicator) to insure the circuit is, in fact, de-energized.
\n Answer \n. \nYou will have to install a double pole breaker in the fuse panel and then run new wire (10/3) to the location of the dryer and install the proper plug. Y…ou will need a 4 prong plug; the older 3 wire plugs no longer meet code for new work.
Answer . first off, the two 110v circuits would have to be from different bus bars in the breaker panel, one from the left bus and one from the right bus. if they are both… from the same bus you can't do it. if you count down from the top on one side of the breaker panel, every other single breaker space (they're numbered, 1,3,5,7... or 2,4,6,8...) is on the opposite bus, and the top breaker on each side is on the opposite bus. if you call the busses a and b then top to bottom on the left would be ababab... and top to bottom on the right would be bababa... \n. \nif the two 110v circuits are from different busses, then the black (hot) wires from the two circuits would have 220v potential between them and the white wires (neutrals) would have no potential between them because they are connected to the same place back in the breaker panel, the neutral bus. if all you want is 220v, then the black wires would be all you need. it is a code violation to do this, however because an electrician or fireman has no way to know that he has to turn off two breakers to kill power to the one 220v device unless the two 110v breakers are together on the same side of the panel (ab or ba) and they are clearly marked on the legend as serving the same device.
Outlets and power \n. \n(110V outlets and 120V outlets are practically the same for this discussion. I will refer to them as 120V. Same with 220V/240V outlets.)\n. \nFor y…our 120V source I assume you plan to use a standard US 120V 15A outlet.\n. \nThis outlet can provide a maximum of 15A at 120V. This means the outlet can provide 1,800W of power. ( Volts x Amps = Watts ) This is the maximum amount of power this outlet can provide, no more. Also, this is assuming nothing else is drawing power off the circuit this outlet is on. If you try to pull 1800W from an outlet and plug anything else into this circuit, the breaker will blow.\n. \nYour oven is designed to run off a 50A 240V circuit. Let's say, for argument, it draws 40A at 240V. This means your appliance requires 9,600W of power to run correctly. This is over 5.3 times the absolute maximum amount of power your 120V outlet can provide. There is no way you can run this appliance off this outlet. You have a larger problem here than the voltage difference. \n. \n Proceed with EXTREME caution \n. \n. \nProbably not advisable. One of the way transformers are rated is by the maximum wattage the transformer can safely accommodate. Electric ranges (or any appliance used to heat or cool) consume much more energy and require a much higher wattage rating than most other appliances. Unless you know the wattage rating of your transformer and are certain it can safely provide for your electric range, you should NOT use a step-up transformer with your range. Bear in mind that the wattage requirement for any electric range may vary greatly from model to model and varies even more with the demand placed on the range. For example, wattage required by one burner set to 'low' is much less than the same burner set on 'high'. Even more current and wattage is required to run 2 burners, 3 burners, etc... As you can see, there are many variables. \nThe safest situation would assume that the range will always operate at it's maximum capacity (i.e. All burners on and set to high, cooling fans set to their highest level, any light bulbs on, both upper and lower oven heating elements turned on if applicable, any other accessories turned on and operating at their highest setting) and therefore should have a transformer at least 20% higher in capacity than the range at maximum consumption. The maximum wattage rating of the range should be printed on the manufacturers label, the Underwriters Laboratories(UL) label, or in the product installation/owner's manual. If wattage is not specifically given then use this formula to calculate wattage: Watts= Volts x Amps. \nI think a good question to ask yourself before doing this is, "Am I cool with my entire house burning down?" If your answer is, "No." then you probably need to pay an electrician to run a proper 220/240v line. \nA modern oven/range combination can easily consume 12,000-15,000 watts. As a comparison, a large hair dryer can consume as much as 2,000 watts.\nA 15,000 watt step-up transformer easily costs over a thousand bucks. So, unless you happen to have one lying around it's probably cheaper to hire the electrician anyway. \nOne last tip: If the transformer doesn't weigh over 100 pounds, don't even think about it. Transformers are heavy. The bigger, the heavier. \nHere's a good website: http://www.voltageconverters.com/commercial_transformers.html
If you work in an industrial setting how do you make a 120V single phase line into a 240V single phase line?
Get an electrician . \nIf you work in an industrial setting and DON'T know how to do this, you should keep your hands off it. \nYou are not a suitably qualified individual.… \n . \n National Electrical Code definition, NFPA 70 2005 Article 100 I: Qualified Person. "One who has skills and knowledge related to the construction and operation of the electrical equipment and installations and has received safety training on the hazards involved." \n . \n Performing any such operation without suitable qualification subjects your employer to action by OSHA. \nRead that as: "financial penalty"
Not advised . Some appliances may work, but I imagine most would either blow a fuse or just burn out. Definately not advised unless you use a transformer. With the right …transformer everything should work fine.
Answer . You DO use the old wire. You must not run new wire and outlets of proper load rating for the job. Doing anything else is dangerous.
Can a 120V UL rated dimmer switch be used on a 240V dedicated line that is providing power to a UK built light fixture that uses UK light bulbs?
Answer for USA, Canada and countries running a 60 Hz power supply service. . No. Do not use a 120 Volt rated device for 240 Volt service. All equipment on 240 volt cir…cuit must be rated for 240 volts. . Consider changing to a 120 Volt circuit and locating 120 Volt lamps with a base made to fit the fixture. I have several customers who have brought fixtures back from Europe and needed 120 volt lamps with a European base.. As always, if you are in doubt about what to do, the best advice anyone should give you is to call a licensed electrician to advise what work is needed. . Before you do any work yourself, on electrical circuits, equipment or appliances, always use a test meter to ensure the circuit is, in fact, de-energized. IF YOU ARE NOT ALREADY SURE YOU CAN DO THIS JOB SAFELY AND COMPETENTLY REFER THIS WORK TO QUALIFIED PROFESSIONALS.
Answer for USA, Canada and countries using similar 60Hz household electricity supplies . This is not possible because a 120v switch disconnects one conductor while a 240v a…pplication requires that both hot conductors be disconnected simultaneously.. The proper solution is to use a double pole 240v switch of the correct size. It must have contacts which are rated to carry the appliance's starting and running currents (amps). A switch with under-sized contacts would be likely to get very warm - or even overheat - to such an extent that it might become a dangerous fire hazard.. IF YOU ARE NOT ALREADY SURE YOU CAN DO THIS JOB SAFELY AND COMPETENTLY REFER THIS WORK TO QUALIFIED PROFESSIONALS. If you do this work yourself, always turn off the power at the breaker box/fuse panel BEFORE you attempt to do any work AND always use a meter or voltage indicator to insure the circuit is, in fact, de-energized. .
The short answer is: you can't.. The long answer is: just like using a flashlight bulb that has a voltage that is half the voltage of the battery, it will not work. It will t…ake too much current, causing it to burn out and be useless.
The answer is No for an iron that was sold only for use in US, Canada or other countries using similar household AC power supplies.. Unless the iron has a switch on it, to al…low it to be used safely in countries which use 220-240 volts as the standard household supply, a 120 Volt iron must only be used on the 120 Volt power supply that it was designed to use.. If it does not have a switch to convert its voltage, it is highly dangerous to try to use a 120 Volt iron on 240 volts. If a fuse or breaker did not trip to break the power supply the iron and/or its flex would overheat so much that they would probably catch on fire - not only would that ruin the iron, it would be dangerous to you and your home!. If you change the iron's US-type 120 Volt plug to a US-type 240 volt plug, the results would be much more dangerous because a 240 Volt circuit has breakers designed to allow a high current draw - such as for a kitchen range or a clothes drier - and those breakers may not trip to cut off the current if you could just plug in a 120 Volt iron without first changing its plug. That is why the iron has a 120 Volt plug and not a 240 volt plug!
There are 110 volts going to recepticles along the walls ect. These are for lamps, vaccuum cleaners, most things besides stoves, dryers, heating and cooling(most). But the onl…y way to use your 110 volt outlet for a 220 is to combine 2 110 volt legs to make it 220 volt. Then you neeed to make sure your breaaker is capable of the increase.
You have to go right back to the source and find out how the electricity is produced. Coal fired, hydro, natural gas turbine. There is a specific cost for each method. For tra…nsmission of electricity over hundereds of miles the higher the voltage (250,000 and 500,000 volts) the better the cost savings. When the voltage gets to your house 120 or 240 volts does not matter. You are charged by the amount of watts that you use. Watts = amps x volts. What you pay per Killowatt/hour (1000 watts per hour) is the accumulated costs of everything it takes to get the power to your house.
\nin short, the electrical energy in your home comes in two forms: +120 V and -120 V. A volt (v) is simply a measure of the difference in potential energy that is available. T…herefore, each plug in your house can effectively supply 240 v of electrical potential energy because each 'side' of the outlet is supplying a difference voltage measure. One side supplies +120 and the other -120, so +120-(-120) = +240 v.
No, the current on the primary side of the transformer will be too high. Hot tubs are usually around 40 amps at 240 volts. On a step up transformer it is a two to one ratio. T…his relates to an amperage input of 80 amps at 120 volts. The size of the transformer would be about 10 kva. The price of the transformer alone would be more that the cost of installing a proper 240 volt feed to the hot tub.
Yes, the capacity of the transformer, on the primary side, to handle 240 volts x 32 amps is 7680 VA. This will allow on the secondary side an output of, I = W/E, 7680/120 = 64… amps, well within the range you are looking for.
You may need to step up the voltage to minimize the power loss / voltage dip at the end of the 800 feet depending on: 1. the type of cable used (the higher resistance, the lar…ge cables would be required to not do this) 2. the amperage that you will need to draw. The voltage drop in the wires is due to the I^2*R losses in the cable. If your cable has a resistance of 1 ohm over 800 feet, and you draw 5 amps (so your load resistance is R = V/R = 240 / 5 = 48 ohms), the actual current delivered will be (I = V / R = 240 / 49) 4.9 amps, and the voltage at the end of the 800 feet will be (240 - 4.9*1) 235 volts. voltage is probably fine for whatever equipment you're using. If used continuously, the 800 ft of cable would waste 210kWh of energy/yr (15-35 dollars/year). If you need 20 amps, the load resistance would be (240 / 20) 12 ohms, current delivered to the load would be (240/13) = 18.5, and the voltage at the end of the 800 feet would be (240 - 18.5*1) 222 volts. This might be too low, depending on the equipment you're using and if you're area has a naturally low voltage to begin with. If used continuously, the 800 ft of cable would waste ~3,000kWh of energy/yr (180-450 dollars/year). As your question is written, a straight yes or no cannot be given. I hope the above explains enough to give you the knowledge you need to determine this on your own.