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Before undertaking this effort you should first know that the crankshaft pulley bolt is a recall part from Kia a TON of people have complained about the issue. It basically boils down to sub-par parts, but let's face it you bought a KIA :).

To check on whether you vehicle falls under the warrantee get your VIN # from the door or the plate in the driver's side window and call 1-800-333-4542

I have done this myself and can say absolutely that this is not a job you want to take on if you do not have to. I have worked on cars professionally for over a decade and this one really made my stomach sick. After quite a lot of work in removing the crank shaft bolt I found that the bolt had cracked, yes cracked, in the crankshaft. Imagine how fun that was to remove, and what it did to the threads in the crank, that of course need to be repaired.

BE CAREFUL! During this process you may need to remove the radiator, and move the A/C coil. Both of these are fragile, and trust me you do not want to break them, or even just bend the coils. You also want to be ABSOLUTELY sure that you DO NOT turn the engine backwards; if you do you may bend the valves.

On a scale of 1 to 10 I would say this is a 4, but there is significant risk to be aware of.

If you are still determined to do this you self it is pretty strait forward:

-Remove the engine shroud (10mm, Philips centered bolts)

-Remove the plastic veneer on top of the radiator (Unscrew with Philips then pull out, they are like wall anchors and expand in the hole when the center screw is sunk)

-Remove the belts. There are three of these and all on pulley tension-ers. You first need to find them. One is top-driver, one top-passenger, and one lower passenger. You will need to loosen the retaining nut that is on the center of the pulley (14 mm) then back off the tension bolt (14mm). These are all normal thread so righty-tighty, lefty-loosey. If you strip any of these, as they appear to be cheap steel, you should be able to replace them at your local hardware store, ask for the hardened or stainless stuff.

-Room getting to the bolt is an issue. There is a special tool to span the pulley with Dow pins that fit into two holes on the pulley. This is meant to hold the crank still while turning the retaining bolt. The pulley looks pressed on though, so in my case where the bolt broke the pulley was already loose, and a nightmare. This would not work for me, and I could not find any way to hold the crank still (suggestions are welcome). The other option is to use a powerful impact; the hope being that this will turn the bolt without turning the crank (you still need to be careful, but it is at your own risk). If you can use the spanning tool to do this, it may be worth the investment. If you want to go this route you can skip to the step marked with "*" down below. For the rest of you, we will remove the radiator and push back the condenser coil so that we have room to operate.

-Remove the fan assembly. There are two 10mm bolts that attach the fan assembly to the Radiator. These are located at the top of the assembly. There are electrical components on the passenger side of the assembly that will also need to be removed. Be careful with these. There are some tabs to squeeze and then pull out the clip (you should put dialectic grease in here before re-attaching these later). After removing the bolt and the electric you should be able to lift the assembly out.

-Drain the radiator. This includes removing the coolant (which is hazardous keep it away from you animals and kids, and do not let it just sink into your ground, take it to the dump). There is a top (return) and bottom (supply) hose (1 1/2" hose) and a small (1/2" hose, overflow). These all have spring clips on them that can remove with a pair of pliers.

-You will also need to remove the Power Steering lines and fluid. Again collect this fluid as it can be nasty; it should also go to the dump, we can take advantage of this work and flush this fluid at this time, which at it simplest consists of drain and refill. There are two hoses that connect to the radiator. One comes from a separate coil (the small one at the front bottom) and another that comes from the power steering pump. These are both located along the bottom of the radiator.

-Remove the radiator. I would suggest not moving the radiator until all the bolts are removed. There are two 12mm retaining nuts on either side of the radiator, save these for last. There are then four 10mm bolts attaching the A/C condenser coil to the radiator. These are at the four corners of the radiator, and you will need about 1'+ of extensions to reach through the bumper to get to the lower ones. You then need to detach the power steering coil from the radiator. There are 4 10mm bolts attached to the bottom of the radiator; 2 on both sides. There is one final one that got me. It is a single 10mm bolt, that attaches a hose leading to the PS coil, to the radiator. This is at the very bottom in the middle. Finally remove the two 12mm bolts on either side of the radiator. The radiator should then come out though this is an effort in and of itself, as things are abit tight. BE GENTLE!!! These coils are aluminum and tear easily, do not add to the problem.

*-Now comes the fun part. The crankshaft pulley bolt is a 22mm. It is torqued to about 130 lbs so it takes some oomph to get it off. Get you self a nice Air impact gun and go to it. The thread IS NOT reverse. Eventually the bolt will come loose and then assembly is the opposite of removal, make absolutly sure you get the right replacement bolt. They changed it, and the torque needs to be 145lbs on it, use a torque wrench.

GOOD LUCK!!!

Feel free to plagiarize this. I am not interested in the credit, just getting the info out there.

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Q: How do you remove crankshaft pulley bolt on a Kia Sedona?
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