How do you replace a kick start shaft on a Honda CT90?
To replace the kickstart shaft on a CT90 the entire engine must be disassembled and crankcase split in order to gain access to it, it can be a difficult job and will require some mechanical knowledge and a manual. it is quite expensive as all gaskets have to be replaced and the whole engine has to be reassembled after wards. so unless you are after a perfect rebuild or are going to be performing some bottom end or gearbox work on the engine it is not really worth it unless you willing to pay the cost. otherwise you can just simply roll start it.
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remove axle nut, remove lower ball joint nut and separate, remove wishbone bolt at lower control arm. pull 4 wheel bearing bolts on back side of spindal if present if not pull strut assembly away from axle, if axle stuck in hub carefuly drive axle out of hub. after separated pry axle out of transaxl…e with a screw driver. reinstall new axle careful to engauge c clip located on trans axle end. reassemble the rest and make sure to tourque the axle nut to factory specs. (MORE)
Idk about the 99 civic but on my 95 jdm d15 the crank shaft position sensor is in the distributor. If the sensor is bad then you must replace the whole distributor. A bad wire could also cause this problem. Hope that helps good luck.. jdmd15crx
The question you ask is tooinvolved for a proper answer. You may want to go to a car parts store, or book store, andget a repair manual for your car.They cost about $16.00Or, go to a Public Library. First off, knowing what kind of vehicle you are doing this on, helps ! Axle shafts usually are one c…omplete unit or they are like 2 shafts that make up one, often the transaxle end is an axle rod which is supported by an arbor, the actual axle shaft has the cv joints and it connects to the "axle rod" by way of the aupport arbor. In removing this type of axle shaft, you don't have to mess w\ the end going into the transaxle, Its suggested that you can remove the axle shaft from the support arbor by tapping it out w\ a plastic mallet ?! Note that in this type of axle setup, you don't have to drain the transaxle fluid. Otherwise the rest of the procedure for it or regular axle shafts are about the same.. If the axle is going to removed from the transaxle, you should drain the transaxle fluid. Obviously all safety precautions should be taken w\ respect to jackstands supporting vehicle, wheels blocked, brake on, battery disconnected etc .. I will give generalized steps in how I have removed them..**NOTE, some vehicles may require removal of other components or special tools to complete the job, this is merely generalized! In some cases you may consider leaving the car on the ground and in gear to LOOSEN the axle nut-Note-you need to unstake the little tab on the nut to be able to loosen it, Raise vehicle, remove wheel,Next loosen or remove the bolt where the ball joint connects to the spindle,In some cases you may have to remove the tie rod end from the spindle or you may need to remove the anti-roll bar bolts from their attaching point, usually a control arm bracket..I usually remove the anti-roll bar bolts from the bracket that attaches it to the control arm, this allows for more movement.. It may be a good idea to have an assistant at this point, or at the least, place a cinderblock or similar object nearby while you attempt to separate the ball joint from the spindle, I sometimes need a hammer to tap on the control arm to help loosen the balljoint from w\in the pinch bolt hole on the spindle.You might have to work it back and forth a little and push down on the control arm enough to get the balljoint out, you can then move the spindle assembly out of alignment w\ the balljoint, you DONT want to pull the spindle assembly towards you as this may over-extend the cv joints and possibly cause pre-mature failure, its been suggested. An assistant could help to keep the spindle assembly from overextending at this point and offer some manueverability while you begin to remove the axle from the transaxle. Otherwise you can set the spindle assembly on the cinderblock or other object that keeps the spindle at a level position, Now, its time to remove the axle from the transaxle.It is said, you need only to use a prybay and gently pry or give a sharp rap w\ a hammer to remove the axle. I've not found this the case, most often, it takes some brute strength, this depends on the accessibility to the trans side cv joint, if you can get in a couple of prybars one on one side of the shaft, one on the other so you can pry evenly, a little tap may be all it takes, but in most of my situations, you have to get in as best you can on a good angle and hammer away on the prybar.PLEASE note that you need to have some extension in the axle joints otherwise the axle is exerting some pressure on itself and while you're hammering to pry it out, it's working against you! You can fix this by positioning the spindle side joint slightly out from the car or have the assistant help w\ this... ((The thing that holds the axle in, is a C-shaped ring that in it's normal state is larger than the hole the axle passes through, upon insertion or removal the ring is compressed into the groove of the axle, once inside it pops back out.)) So just work at it and it should come out, I've not come across one yet that won't. *WARNING, be careful not to damage the transaxle seal while prying on the cv joint housing,Usually these seals have an outer hard metal casing and though you may end up bending it, doesnt always indicate its going to need replacing.. You'll know if you start seeing trans fluid on the ground As you are pulling the axle out of the transaxle (or reinstalling one) be careful as the splines could damage the transaxle seal, also be careful not to OVERextend the joints, again, at this point an assitant can be helpful for removing the loosened axle nut and getting the axle out of the spindle, or you may be able to lay the axle on the ground or an object to keep it level w\ the other end of the axle,Then you can remove the loosened axle nut, push or lightly tap the axle through the spindle and viola, axle removed. There are some variations to how this whole procedure can be done but I outlined what is most common for me, I someone. (MORE)
probably just like anything else... remove tire, caliper, rotor, castle nut, remove the bolts from the mounting bracket, slide the hub assembly off the end of the shaft and yank it out of the side of the transmission... there may be a retainer clip on the end of the CV that slides into the transmiss…ion... so you might have to really tug on it to pop it out.. stick the new one in... pop the hub back on and push it back up into the mounting bracket, you might have to pry on the holes with a screw driver to line it up (since you left the ball joint attached: you have to lift the control arm manually), pop in the bolts, tighten... castle nut... rotors, calipers wheel, lugs, cheesy wheel cover you bought at autozone and you are in business (MORE)
Answer . \nThis web page will give you all the info you need to preform this repair.\nMX-3.com/95manual
Answer . \nListen to your father: go to the nearest public library and get a Honda manual--it will describe everything in detail!
Answer . Remove the 4 nuts that hold down the U-Joints to the differential. Remove the 2 bolts that hold the center drive shaft carrier bearing to the frame. Put a pan or some kind of container under the tail of the transmission to catch any of the oil that drips. Then pull the drive shaft out o…f the transmission.\n. \nIf you decide to replace the u-joints, I strongly recommend that you take the drive shaft to a reputable u-joint specialist and have all 3 u-joints replaced and the carrier bearing all replaced and have the drive shaft balanced. Then put it all back together in reverse order.\n. \nWhen removing the u-joints, make sure the transmission is in neutral and the parking brake is set and/or the wheels are blocked. (MORE)
Why does the fuel pump not kick on every time when starting a 1998 Ford Windstar. I replaced the relay and that did not help. Could it be a bad fuel pump?
I would guess try replacing fuel pump, But before you do , spend20.00 bucks on a Haynes manual at your local Auto Zone or AdvancedAuto and do a little multi-meter work before buying the wrong part.Everything is electronic so you never know. I had an older FordTempo once and the fuel pump did the sam…e thing then eventuallywent out and had to replace. Hope this helps!! Added by CamaroLuver: Kudos on the mutimeter advice! Better thangoing out and buying a bunch of parts, and doing the guess work. ItCOULD be the fuel pump then again could not. Just because youreplaced the relay doesn't mean it's working right. Touch the fuelpump relay when you don't hear your pump come on, have a friendturn your car on (not crank) and see if you feel the relay clickover. If not then you aren't getting power to your relay. Then it'sa different problem entirely. Wiring, a ground, possibly computerproblem, do a lot of testing before you go out and buy parts. Alsotest if you have spark before you rule out to be a fuel deliveryproblem (which I'm guessing it is) I learned that the hard way. Hadthe exact same symptoms, bought a new relay, went through 3 pumpsbefore we realized it wasn't either one, got a new ignition coiland switch, ECM, fuel injectors. Turned out to be some bad wiringand a fusible link. Electrical problems are the greatest!!! :-p*sarcasm* (MORE)
Answer . \nall spark plug gaps are wrong ( dont always they set correct from factory) or you have got the plug lead positions wrong firing order 1-3-4-2
Why does a 95 Chevy Blazer almost start and then shut off we have replaced distributor rotor cap and cam shaft postition sensor?
Answer . \nRemember that the number one problem with these vehicles is the fuel pump. Have you checked for fuel pressure?
Answer \n. \nCall your local drive shaft shop and ask them. They would have a better idea and your question would be answered sooner.
Answer . The kick panel on a 1990 Honda accord is the same part as on every modern car in the world. The kick panel is the plastic or metal panel on the interior of the car which protects wiring and other parts of the car from the driver's or passenger's outside foot. This panel is often used as… a cover for fuse boxes. (MORE)
Brand new battery in Honda Accord 1995 wont start car or kick over or turn over no clicking noise eigther?
Answer . If there was an extended warranty then you can look through your agreement for what Honda dealership will honor. If it was purchased "as is" then it is your responsibility to purchase a new battery. If it was expressed that the battery was good for a certain amout of time then the sel…ler is responsible. (MORE)
Answer . You may very likely have bent the thin metal backing plate behind the brake rotor. That will cause the backing plate to rub against the rotor and make an awful grinding noise. Its not too hard to reform the backing plate away from the rotor.
Answer . Once you have the car off of the ground safely. Remove your tire, brakes, and rotor. Now you have to unbolt the balljoint, and tie rod if necesary, and the hub. Your whole strut assy should be able to be pushed out of the way and held in place with a bungee cord. The cv shaft can be yan…ked on to pull it out but sometimes you need to pry it out once it is out size it up to your new one. If it matches just push the new one hard into place and bolt everything tightly as it was and your done. (MORE)
I have a 1990 cr500r Honda 2 stroke that can be pull started but wont kick start could you tell me what is wrong with it runs fine when started but can kick start only pull start?
You have to kick the crap out of those things. I own a 1995, I have to find some thing to hold myself up on and kick it right through the whole range of the kick start for it to run.. Make sure you are kicking through the compression stroke. To find the compression stroke slowly push the kickstarte…r through it's range until you feel 2 points of resistance. Those 2 points of resistance are where the piston has reached it's highest points in the compression stroke and has begun it's descent back down. After reaching the highest point keep pushing the kickstarter moving the piston a few more inches. The goal is to position the piston as close to the top of the stroke as you can while still being able to kick through the next compression stroke. . With the piston positioned make sure to kick through the full range. The full range includes still being in the kicking motion as the piston travels through top dead center and exits the compression stroke. (MORE)
Check for power to the sensor. check for power and ground to theIgnition coil. If the crank sensor is adjustable, make sure that itis set to the proper gap.
unless you are a good welder or know one (to weld the shift shaft back together after cutting the end off) you have to take the tranny off of the vehicle, open it up and undo the 12mm shift-rod guide bolt and pull the shift rod out, (make sure you dont lose the detent ball and spring when you pull i…t out so you can put it back, this is very important) now you can remove the shift shaft seal. Pry it out with a screwdriver, and drive in a new one(after lubing it with a little clean oil) using a socket the same size as the seal. Now you get to put everything back together. In reverse order as taking it apart. (MORE)
You need to verify the Transmission Fluid Level, in my experience, i have a 1995 Honda Accord and had the same problem, first, i verify the Fluid Level and was ok, after this, i realize my tires pressure (in 2 of them) were under the recommended specs, after i match the recommended level in the 4 ti…res (32 psi) problem disappear and haven't since...(i assume when the tires are under spec level, the motor and transmission are forced, giving the sensation of kickback) (MORE)
loosen the axle nut\n. \nloosen the lug nuts\n. \nraise the front\n. \nremove the wheels\n. \ndrain the trans fluid\n. \nrelease the ball joint nut, but don't remove it\n. \nstrike the lower control arm perpendicular to the ball joint stud to release it\n. \npull the wheel assembly far enough… out from the car to clear the axle\n. \nusing a pry bar, remove the stub axle from the transmission\n. \ninstall the new axle into the transmission\n. \ninsert the axle into the wheel assembly\n. \nassemble the ball joint\n. \ntighten the axle nut best you can\n. \nreplace the wheel\n. \ndrop the car\n. \ntighten the lug nuts\n. \ntighten the axle nut\n. \nhammer the flange of the nut into the groove of the axle\n. \nreplace the wheel center cap\n. \nrefill with trans fluid\n. \ncheck for leaks or loose parts (MORE)
My 1980 CM400t came standard with an electric start, however it was an option on the CM400e (economy) model.
Callaway clubs differ from other clubs because they have bore through shafts. These can be difficult to put in, so you should really get your local pro or clubfitter to replace them.
replacing a blade takes a lot of practice and the right tools so unless you want to bugger up your stick, it would be a good idea to take it to a shop and get it done for a couple bucks(plus the cost of a blade)...if you want to do it on your own you'll need the right glue and a torch. the amount o…f heat depends if you have a composite shaft or (unlikely) an aluminum one. using the torch keep the flame visible(orange or red or whatever) and roast the end of the shaft like a hotdog. constantly move it right to left while rotating slowly. check every couple of seconds by trying to pull out the blade. once out put some glue in thin strips on all 4 sides of the blade and a little inside the shaft. heat the glue on the blade a little and shove that thing up there (MORE)
The CT90 takes regular engine oil, the same that is in your car. it does not take any different oil for the gearbox as it is all lubricated by the engine oil. anything between 20w-50w is fine and multi-grade is also fine, at colder temperatures you should use denser oil, about 10w-20w.
No. There are 2 U joints, 1 front and 1rear. If they are the factory U joints they are sealed with a plastic meaning no clips on driveshaft side. If you are not of high mechanical ability I would take it and have it done.
no, Honda VTR 1000 (fire-storm / superhawk) is electronic start only, or jump start, no kick start on it
Broken. It's not broken. Just simply forgot to plug in one of the small cord into the starter. Engine starts after that. Just remember and make sure all wires/plugs are plugged in once the job is done.
This is one of the few items that I had to pay someone at the shop to take care of. I got all the way through removing the castle nut on the axle from the hub, but I could not for the life of me defeat the cir-clip that holds the CV axle on the transmission. Pay the money for a mechanic to do thi…s one for you. (MORE)
Take it to the Toyota dealer for service. This is the best advice I can give. \n. Sully \n.
normally between 16-20 weeks... you may even feel it later than 20 weeks... just depends on your sensitivity to touch on your stomach and the baby's position
The CT90 front forks take 135 ml after all excess oil has been pumped out. After disassembly add an extra 5ml
The Honda Spree/Elite 50 Forum has a great page on this and on many other Spree-related articles. Here's the link for the how-to article: http://www.hondaspree.net/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=4547 Of course, that involves first finding a kick start kit for sale, which is something I'm still working… on for my '85. Good luck, and happy riding! (MORE)
Put the choke in the full choke position.. Hold the compression release in, twist the throttle fully open and kick the kick starter 8 times.. move the choke to the half choke position and kick the kick starter 2 times with the throttle closed. move the kick starter so that you are at the compress…ion point at the bottom of the kick starter stroke and then use the compression release to move the kick starter just past the bottom (full compression) position. kick the kick starter from the top all the way through the compression stroke.. This will usually start the bike in 1 to 2 kicks,. Note: using this method, you do not have to "stand" on the kick starter. If you have enough momentum from the top of the kick stroke, you will have a very easy time of it. (MORE)
are you talking about the complete cv joint and axle? my suggestion would be go to a local auto parts store and purchase a Haynes repair manual for your specific make and model. it will show you step by step instructions on how to do it with pictures. im not sure your make and model but if it is a H…onda newer than 2001, there are special tools needed so you don't break the boots on the shaft and the control arms and fork. unless you have a haynes repair manual, i would take that to a local certified Honda shop. if your car is a Honda older than 2000 it should all be the same as follows: you will need a few tools to make your life a lot easier. first you need a 32mm six point socket. probably a boot fork. you will need the following sockets and or wrenches: 10mm, 12mm, 14mm, 17mm and 19mm. all these tools can be rented at oreilly's auto, advance auto, autozone, and pepboys. first you have to jack the car and remove the wheel with a 19mm. keep the key in the ignition so the wheel hub can turn freely. unbolt the two or three 14mm nuts on the top of the wheel hub under the hood. use a 17mm socket on one side and a 17mm wrench on the other to loosen the bolt on the very bottom of the fork, right below the disc brake. use a 32mm socket to loosen the big nut on the end of the control arm. you cant miss it. its right in the center of the brake disc. u may need someone to hold the brakes down to keep it from turning. use either a 14mm or 17 mm socket depending on your make and model to loosen the bolts at the top of the fork. there will be one other 17mm bolt towards the back side of the fork that is connected to another axle looking thing with an accordion looking boot on it. that is the steering. loosen that one also. this is where it becomes fun. if you have a boot fork this part is easy. if not you will have a lot of pounding to do. on all the bolts you just loosened, pry or pound off the fork from the little boot. you may be able to use a large screw driver or a prybar. they will eventually break free. once you get all three you can remove the whole front assembly. and the axle should slide free from the control arm. it should still be connected to the transmission but it may slide right out. if you are replacing the whole thing and it wont easily come off the transmission just use a knife or screwdriver to break the boot and the axle will come right out. then use a prybar or large screwdriver to pry off the end of the axle that connected it to the transmission. the new one should just pop right in with a little force and rebolt everything up and you are ready to go. *notice - whenever you work on the suspension, you should always get an alignment. this will save you a lot of money on tires. (MORE)
Has anyone had issues with the electric start on a 2004 Honda CRF250X where it will not start with the electric start but fires right up when kicked?
Yes. My 2005 stopped working, I did find a fuse (7.5) blown next tothe battery (Battery shows Good on a tester I used) but, it stilldoesn't work after replace it. I also checked the fuse (15.0) atthe Started Magentic (thing) located under the right side cover,but it looked fine and tested okay. Not …sure if its something inthe starter now or the handle bar push button switch/clutchcombination required to be depressed when starting up....Could betime for the shop. (MORE)
If you are referring to the cv shafts to the front wheels, as follows: drain the box oil, remove split pin in the outer hub nut and loosen the big 30mm nut with a breaker bar. jack up front of car, remove wheels. undo caliper, hang out of the way. undo the 2 strut bolts from the hub. undo the lower …hub ball joint and the steer rack ball joint. this is done by undoing the nut, then whack the cast lug where the tapered pin goes thru on the side with a heavy hammer- this will deform the lug by a few molecules, just enough so that the pin pops free. now get a prybar between the inner end of the cv and the gearbox housing, and with a quick flicking motion, pop out the cv. CHANGE THE SEAL where the cv goes into the box or your new oil will fall out on the ground. I,ve just done 2 gearboxes last week, this is the easiest way. seals cost about 50$ au for two. good luck, justin. (MORE)
I believe you're referring to the drive shaft that runs to the rear differential that powers the rear wheels on the AWD verson of the CR-V.
Can you replace a universal joint in a 2001 Honda CR-V or do you have to replace the whole drive shaft?
The U-joints can be replaced separately - you do NOT need to replace the entire shaft. Thecvman on EBay sells the replacement u-joints for only $34. The original ones are made to be staked into the yoke ends, so you'll need to grind down the staked part (the little dimples that hold the caps in …place) with a Drummel or abrasive roll cartridge. The replacement u-joint use "c" clips on the inside of the yoke so you won't need to re-stake them in place. (MORE)
14mm wrench. remove 4 nuts from the front flange and 4 nuts rearflange. Careful with the driveshaft it's aluminum.
Are the engines on a 1986 Honda Cr 500 compatible with a 1992 Honda Cr 500 I'm trying to replace the housing where the kick start has cracked it?
you can use a 92 cover but you will need to modify a few components to make it work. the plumbing is a little different and the brake pedal needs to be tweaked a bit and a few of the bolts are different.
You need a totally different left engine cover assembly with the kick start componenets. Easier just to get a whole moteor with the kick start, which they starting using in 80 or 81....good luck You do not need a different cover. Actually you can not use a cover from an 81 express on your 80 or o…lder express. It wont fit. 81 was the first year of the kick start and the transmission case is completely different. Anyway you can convert yours to kick start but it requires quite a bit of work. Involves taking the side cover off removing some parts replacing a spring with the correct washers and rebending another spring in a different direction. (MORE)
Yes, they can. However steel shafts that are long enough to be a driver shaft are very uncommon, this is because they are so heavy and not as good as graphite ones. If you find a steel shaft that you would like put into your driver you will need to check the tip diameters are the same and your local… pro or clubmaker should be able to do it for you easily. (MORE)
If you are certain that it is an electrical problem, the next things you might try would be replace the spark plugs, ignition wires, and have the distributor checked out. Have you considered the fact that the problem may be fuel related rather than electrical? Is the fuel filter clogged and in need …of replacement? Or, the fuel pump is failing, or that dirty fuel injectors are inhibiting the flow of gas to the cylinders? (MORE)
You have to be able to pull the old bearing and replace it with the input shaft in place (it takes a special puller and installer). Not being able to do that (like me), the transmission needs to be almost totally disassembled to remove the shaft/bearing from the case. There are clearance issues with… the countershaft and mainshaft that cause this. If you go that way you still need a bearing splitter and press to get the bearing off and press the new one on. Because you have taken the front cover off the transmission, you will have to do some shimming between the case and outer bearing race. (MORE)
I have an 91 Honda Trx300 4x4 kicked it over and it almost started cleaned spark plug and it almost started kicked pedal and it almost turned over. Any suggestions on how to get it started?
get a 12volt battery charger hook the charger up to the car and let it sit for 24-48 hours and if it dont start then u are going to have to get it checked by a mechanic they might fix the problem whether it is the battery or spark plugs or even something else
My bakes are starting to fail on your Honda Accord where can you go to get your brake discs replaced?
Any mechanics shop should be able to replace your brake discs. Although there are some shops that specialize in just brakes. If you are in any way mechanically inclined brakes tend to be an easy fix and you could just pick them up from a local parts store as well as a manual and do them yourself sav…ing a great deal of money. (MORE)
Honda only sells the ignition cylinder lock as a complete assembly which includes: the wiring, lock, security sensor...etc. Therefore the new key that operates the new cylinder must be programmed to let the computer know to shut the security system off. If your vehicle starts for a few seconds then …stalls, this is quite possible what needs done. You may get away with putting the old key next to the ignition cylinder and retry the starting procedure. I do not know if the interference of the new key will allow the computer to recognise the older key. Good Luck (MORE)
Wouldnt have thought so mate ,depends on the extent of the damage,reed valve damage will only bring the power down and give performance issues i would say ,ive just done the piston on my cr250 1999 and i put it back together and the power was down so i stripped it again to find the reed valve was da…maged (MORE)
The Honda CT90 was manufactured from 1966 through 1979. Since it is now a collector's item, you might try looking at classifieds or checking for members of hobby clubs who wish to sell.
It's rare to replace one. The journal(s) would have to be soscrewed up they couldn't be machined without changing size by agreat deal. even if you have a replacement, block and caps willhave to be machined so have an engine rebuilder drop it in for you.It is also rare a crank would go with no other …serious damage toparts- check the whole engine. (MORE)