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Most cars and trucks today have what is called a serpentine belt which runs most accessories.They are very dependable and usually easy to replace. To decide if your belt needs replacing, simply look at the grooved side of the belt to see if it is cracking badly. A couple of cracks every 3 inches is normal, but if you see cracks every 1-2 inches I would recommend that you replace it. On most cars and trucks the procedure is basically the same. First off, get the correct belt by bringing your cars VIN number to the parts store(located on your cars dashboard) the parts store may need it. If there are two choices, get them both so you can complete the repair. Once you have the correct belt, take a minute to review how the belt runs across the pulleys and also check to see if your car/ truck has a underhood diagram of belt routing in case you need it. In most cases you will need a socket wrench or breaker bar with either a 3/8" and /or 1/2" head on it and possibly a short extension. Some models may require a wrench of these similar sizes.Now that you are ready to go to work, you will need to find the spring loaded tensioner which is generally located near the top of the belt path; it usually has a shinny pulley on it. Look at the tensioner and insert the tool into it and apply opposing pressure to release the belt.Now, simply install the new belt making sure it fits into the grooves on all the pulleys. Start the car to check it and you are done and you saved yourelf some money!
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There A bolt half inch located outside a plate of the alternator on the fire wall side turn it counterclockwise either with a long wrench from on top or under the car
If your car has a tensioner pulley it can be moved to release the tension on the belt for removal. Make note of the routing of the belt before removing it. This will make ins…talling the replacement belt much easier. If you do not have a tensioner pulley one of your accessory motor/pumps (most likely your alternator) can be moved in order to release the tension on the belt. Most tensioner pulleys have an hole the exact size of a ratchet drive on the tensioner arm. This allows you to put a standard ratchet (without any socket attached to it) into that hole and use the leverage of the ratchet to release the tension.
Answer Hey, If you stand facing the passenger side of the vehicles' engine compartment you'll be facing the front of the engine. The tension pulley is to the low…er left. It is the only pulley that is mounted at the end of an "arm" as opposed to the rest of the pulleys that are mounted directly through their center holes. Hope this helps.
you need a serpentine belt tool, you can get one at auto zone or any part store. the alternator is on a pully system with a belt tensioner. place the tool in the tensioner and… pull down, this releases the tension and the belt should come off. besure that you have the proper routing diagram and the correct belt for your engine size and year. Also if you don't want to buy s serpentine belt tool, you can use a 15MM wrench.
This is not a easy job what engine do you have. You need the service manual without it it could be a impossible task.ps it a 3.8 engine Answer Support the car with a jack s…tand and then support the engine with a jack under the oil pan (use a piece of soft lumber between the jack and the pan or you'll be removing the pan to fix it). Remove the passenger's front wheel. Remove the push pins holding the weather shield. Remove the shield. Remove the upper motor mount. Remove the belt. The belt tensioner is held in by two bolts. Raise the engine with jack carefully until you can get your hand in to remove the top tensioner bolt. Lower the motor with the jack very slowly until you can access the bottom bolt and remove it. The tensioner will come out through the fenderwell. Put the new one in the same way. Put the bottom bolt back, raise the engine, top bolt, level the engine, attach the belt, reinstall the motor mount, weathershield and wheel. If you forget the weathershield your belt might squeak when it rains. If this sounds like a pain in the neck, take it your local shop.
Quite simple, really. 1) Remove battery ground cable. 2) Lightly jack up front of engine to remove weight from mount. 3) Remove front engine mount and ser…pentine belt. 4) Remove old tensioner bolts. There are 3 or 4, possibly 13mm. Look at new tensioner to note locations. 5) Install new part and reassemble car. Good luck.
Is there any special tool a guy with big hands could use to get to the belt tensioner on a 99 Cavalier to loosen it so he can replace the alternator?
Answer Most GM vehicles I've worked on have a square hole in the tensioner arm. A 1/2 inch breaker bar fits nicely into the hole. Answer Yes the…y make wreches for this very thing. Ask at any auto parts store.
Remove serpentine belt and have new tensioner ready, look at it the bolt holding it to the block may be lefthanded thread usually 18 mm. Mosy gm parts are bolted on with… metric so try to take it off with left handed thread (clockwise first) if that isn't it then do the normal way put belt back on. A belt tensioner tool is a good investment. they ar eat autozone and cheap and make the job a 5 minute task
It should be on the left-hand side where the belt and pulleys are - there's no grooves in it, it's flat and runs off the back side of the belt. It's spring loaded. Try a… breaker bar and appropriate sized socket to help take off tension - the belt should slide right off. Pay attention how it comes off and make sure you get the new belt back on the same way.
Should be a square hole either 3/8" or 1/2" place a breaker bar in this hole and push or pull to relieve tension on belt tensioner to remove belt
Replace tentioner pully on 2.8 multiport
Try this... You will need a 3/8 belt tensioner tool or a two foot piece of wood. a 15mm open/box end wrench, stubby preferred. a 15mm socket and ratchet a small socket… set a jack, floor or stock a lug wrench a jack stand a friend (for 5 minutes) If you have the cash, this is a good time to replace the belt. Open hood, apply emergency brake If the belt isn't already off, push down on the tensioner with the stick or tensioner tool and slip the belt off of either the tensioner or the dummy wheel in the center of the engine Raise vehicle from the front of the passenger door's jack slot until RF tire is almost off ground Loosen lug nuts slightly raise tire off ground Support frame up front with jack stand, do not block engine pully access Remove tire and center access panel in wheel well (three small screws on the right and some larger ones supporting the brake line cable) Wiggle the panel out of of the brake line and it should drop out only supported by the front valence fastener. Lower your jack or use a 2nd one and jack up to the engine support bar running just in front of the flywheel pully on the front of the engine. Up under the hood, remove the two motor mount bolts on the top front of the engine with a 15mm socket going back and forth alternately between the two (yes, the obvious easy to get to bolts). Start lowering the engine with the jack until it bottoms out (note: make sure the alternator or anything else doesn't get hung up on the way down). Now look in the wheel well and there is the tensioner. Unfortunately the bolt is still slightly obscured so use a 15mm box end to break it loose and the open end to remove it the rest of the way. Lots of threads so keep going. Tensioner falls off. Put bolt in new tensioner and install getting the guide pin lined up. Raise the engine back up to within 1/2 inch of the mount plate taking care not to get hung up on the way up. (the engine is flopping loose and easily manipulated). Line up the motor mount bolts and hand start them and tighten them up alternately. Have a friend hold the tensioner down with a stick or tensioner tool while you reinstall the belt (route it and install it on the dummy wheel last). There is a diagram on the top front of the hood, I recommend drawing it on paper so it can be oriented during installation. Install wheel well access panel and tire, lower car and tighten lug nuts. If the car was overheated because the belt came loose during tensioner failure, replace lost coolant and change the oil (heat breakdown).
Remove the serpentine belt and remove the alternator. The belt tensioner bolts are under the alternator.
Remove serpentine belt. Remove alternator. The bolts that hold the tensioner on are under the alternator.
Well the original belt tensioner and shive on the motor are junk. As the vehicle gets older and the windshield washer drip pan springs a leak, your belt will fall off. Which s…ucks. If it gets wet from driving in water or snow it will fall off. The reason why is both of the pulleys are smooth and made out of metal, which when wet, will make the belt slip off. Now the fix is to buy the Gates 38379K belt tensioner kit and replace the pulleys. To take off the belt tensioner requires a 15 mm gear wrench. You have to move the alternator back which you can pivot once you undo the top bolt. And underneath the alternator and on the back side of the engine there is a brace you have to remove so you can fit your fingers back there and replace the nut when you are finished installing the new pulleys. When using the gear wrench you are not going to have a lot of space so it takes a long time to undo that bolt. When replacing the tensioner if you look on the back side of the tensioner there is a little ridge that sticks up and that fits into a groove on the plate that the tensioner goes on. That is what locks the tensioner into place. The belt that comes with the 38379 kit may be too short depending on the year of your van. On a 1992, which is the one that I replaced, I had to go and play pick a belt. The original belt was a KO 60990. When you put the Gates kit on the shives are both a little bit smaller than the original parts. To fix that, you want to go with the Gates KO60975 belt. That removes about an inch and a half which is enough to fit on all of your equipment. The original belt is 99 5/8 inches and the new belt is 98 1/8 inches. Make sure that you keep the number for that belt in case somebody else ever has to change it out so that they don't try to put the original belt on for the year of your vehicle. Believe me, swapping everything out is a bear but after you do it you will not have to deal with your belt falling off again. Total cost is around $260.00 for the parts. And hopefully you don't have to change it when it is five degrees outside!! LOL!
How to change the serpentine belt tensioner on a 1991 2.2L Chevrolet Cavalier: The tensioner comes as an assembly (aluminum plate with pre-loaded spring and pulley). These ar…e EXACT instructions on how to do this year/model and is not a generic answer. This tensioner plate assembly also fits on these models: 1987 1988 1989 Buick Skyhawk 2.0L1993 1994 1995 1996 Buick Century 2.2L1987 1988 1989 1990 1991 1992 1993 1994 Chevy Cavalier 2.2L or 2.0L1987 1988 1989 1990 1991 1992 1993 1994 1995 1996 Chevy Corsica 2.2L or 2.0L1987 1988 1989 1990 1991 1992 1993 1994 1995 1996 Chevy Beretta 2.2L or 2.0L1987 1988 Oldsmobile Firenza 2.0L1993 1994 1995 1996 Oldsmobile Ciera 2.2L1993 1994 1995 1996 Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera 2.2L Step 1: Disconnect Battery. Step 2: Remove Belt - 15mm wrench on pulley - turn clockwise to remove tension. There may be no spring tension - but that's why you're changing it - right? Step 3: Remove Power steering pump - Remove small bolt (10mm) on the back side of power steering pump (you are facing engine from passenger side). Use a box-end wrench or one of those ratchet box-end wrenches. Next, there are 3 bolts (13mm) in the front - behind the pulley. There are holes in the pulley specifically for the purpose of removing these bolts. I used a magnet to pull the bolts out after loosened but you may be able to reach under the pulley with your fingers to get them out. You should now be able to move the pump out of the way toward the firewall. Be careful to not break the plastic top. If you have to pry it, do it on the bottom metal part. No need to remove any hoses. Step 4: Remove alternator - Remove all bolts holding the alternator in place. It should just be laying there (Upper alternator bracket removed). Step 5: Remove belt tensioner assembly plate - Remove four 15mm bolts that hold the aluminum plate to the engine block. Mine were on pretty tight so I had to use a breaker bar to get 'em off. Re-assembly: Step 6: Compare new tensioner assembly with old one. They should match. Attach plate to engine block with four 15mm bolts. Make sure they're tight. You don't want this to come loose. Step 7: Re-align power steering pump to 3 holes in tensioner plate and screw in the 3 bolts (don't tighten yet). Next - take the small 10mm bolt that goes in the back of the pump assembly and carefully get it started with your fingers (left hand) The 2 holes should be aligned because the 3 bolts in front are started. Tighten all 4 bolts. Step 8: Alternator - Re-install the long bolt and nut that goes in the bottom of the alternator (you may have to loosen the lower alternator bracket so the holes align). Don't tighten bolt and nut yet. Let the alternator pivot/swing towards the engine. This will make it easier to get the belt on (This is the way I did it - you may be able to get the belt on with all alternator bolts in). Step 9: Serpentine belt install - If new belt, make sure it's the same length as the old one. Route the belt like the diagram sticker. The alternator is the last pulley it will go over. If you can get someone to help you here, it's a lot easier. Turn the 15mm bolt on the tensioner pulley clockwise until there's enough slack to slip the belt over the alternator pulley. While keeping the tension off the pulley, replace the other 2 bolts/upper alternator bracket. Slowly let the the tensioner spring back. Replace and tighten the rest of the alternator/bracket bolts. Step 10: Re-connect battery
The tension pulley has a 3/8" square hole in it. Using a 3/8 drive ratchet or breaker bar, simply put it in and pull the tension pulley.