How do you replace heater resistor in 01 Chevrolet Silverado?
You will need to remove the dash and it should be somewhere under
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I recently replaced the heater core in my 1985 Chev C-30 Silverado 1 Ton Pickup with air conditioning. First I had remove any of the parts that are connected to the basic plenum inside the cab(where the core is installed). I then had to remove the passenger side fender well (Not as difficult as it s…ounds). Then I had to remove the outside cover for the heater and air conditioning cores in the engine compartment (The bottom screw in this cover is not accessible until you remove the fender well). Then it is necessary to remove the three nuts for the through studs that come from inside the cab and go through the firewall. There is one at the top and two at the bottom (again you can't get at one of the bottom nuts unless the fender well is removed). I then had to remove the A/C core (just a few bolts all accessible with the wheel well removed) in order to remove a speed nut from the upper stud. The heater plenum (with the heater core inside) can now be pulled away from the firewall far enough to reach behind and disconnect any remaining vacuum lines and electrical fittings. The plenum can now be removed from the vehicle. There is still considerable work to replace the core. The firewall side of the plenum is all one piece and all the screws have to be removed including two hidden screws on the left side of the opening in the plenum underneath the foam gasket. It is also necessary to remove any thing that attaches the two halves of the plenum together. Shaft for the ? gate is just pushed out and the screw in the linkage that connects the ? gate with the vacuum controller has to be removed while holding the gate open and using a 1/4 drive extension with the proper size socket. Sorry I don't know what these gates are called but there is only one of each so you can readily identify them. You now can remove the inner half and the heater core is exposed with its two tie down brackets. (MORE)
Get a manual on your car and it will have pictures and everything. Some parts stores have them Also they didn't make Corsica's after 1996.
Ok you have to remove your all the parts of your dash. When this step is done, you gonna see a plastic black box, remove this one (3 Screws). Under this one you can see your heater core. When this step is properly do, open your hood. Look on your firewall (Up Passenger Side) and remove all bolts, re…move the 2 heater hoses. Remove your heatercore and replace it, Redo all of this step inverse for reinstallation! Good luck! (Sorry my english, im not the best in this language!) But before you replace it... If you think it may only be clogged, turn heater controls to full open/hot. Then turn off engine. Disconnect heater hoses under the hood. Connect a short hose to the "input port" to carry dirty water away from your engine. Connect another hose to the "output port." Shoot water from a hose-end sprayer into the "output" to backflush the core. My heater in 98 Blazer had quit heating. I just had to wash the crud out it it worked fine afterward. (it was going to be a BIG job to take off enough dash parts to get to the core to deal with it) (MORE)
Buy a new one and you will see what it looks like and it is mounted on the evaporator case.
First, disconnect the negative battery cable, and the instrumentpanel. Drain the cooling system before you raise the vehicle anddisconnect the heater core. Remember to dispose of the drainedfluid and return every component to its right place.
it is located under the dash in the middle right on top of the frame or trany hump there is a black case on the outside with if I rember right 4 screws holding on to the heater core case them the should be 4 to 6 screws to take the 2nd plate off at theis point if you hace big hands or larger arms ca…ll closest friend cheapest help to crawl under car and take of the spring hose clamps or possably hose clamps befor you start all this you should have drained the coolant take both hoses loose the go back to under the dash and there should be 2 core brackets holding the heater core in eith 4 screws try to rember which way it came out to you can get the new one back in put back together in oppsite order make sure you use new heater core hose clamps (MORE)
The heater core should be located on the passenger side just below the dash. There should be a plastic cover over the core that will have to be removed first. But, before you remove the heater core, make sure to drain the cooling system of antifreeze and add NEW antifreeze after completing the repai…rs. First, drain the cooling system. Then, trace the 2 black rubber lines from the water pump to the firewall at the heater core and disconnect them. now move to inside of the truck and locate the heater core cover and remove it (carefully though, these things will crack easily). You should then be able to access the heater core and remove it ( there will be a couple of metal straps that hold it in place...just remove one of the small mounting bolts for each strap). If you don't feel comfortable with these directions, your local parts store should sell either a Haynes or Chilton's repair manual for 1982-1993 s10's. You can pick one up for less than $20. It will have detailed instructions on how to do this and many more repairs. (MORE)
heater resistor removal . heater resistor will be located in the upper section of the plastic trunking for the air flow from the cowl grill. It should have 3 prongs fitted for the wiring and normally 2 screws to hold it in place. Remove the screws and the resistor should pull right out.
01 pon grand am gt your ac heater only works when it is on 5 and will shut off when you turn it off when on 1-4 it will not run at all the resistor has been replaced twice what else could it be?
Answer switch, blower, wiring between.Could be that the resistor is not locked into place all the way after you put it in....you really have to cram the aftermarket ones into place and make sure they are snapped in. (have fun getting back at it...they are in the worst place ever)if it only works on… 5, it is definitly the resistor. So, put a third one in. Theres probly a water leak into the heater box that's getting onto the resistor, shorting it out (MORE)
Remove the antenna and the coax and where the coax was route the new coax in the same places and runs where the old was and replacw with new and then screw the new antenna back on
Tow it to a mechanis and pay them $700-$1000 to do it. It sounds like a lot, but as someone who's worked on my Blazer a lot, this repair is not "do it yourself" freindly. You'll be taking off hte entire dash (took me 3 hours) and then searching indefinatly for random bolts that are all hard to get a…t (another 3-4 hours). Then you'll think you've found them all, and the heater core cover still won't come off (this is where I am now). I'm giving up now, so save yourself the hassle. (MORE)
Go to either a bookstore or an auto parts store that sell Haynes manuals and they should have one that is on your car. It will be more detailed than we could give here.
Answer . \nI assume you mean the variable speed control on the dash. Pull the stereo , you'll need a small torx head screw driver to remove one screw on the bottom of the old switch, slightly twist and remove. Switch wiring , insert new switch with a small twist, good luck installing the scre…w.\n. \nps. to remove the know on the switch, pry from the bottom, that releases the catch that holds the know onto the switch (MORE)
Answer . buy a Chilton manual and it will tell you most of what you need to know.
Remove the wiring harness from the back of your 1996 Chevroletblower motor. Remove the blower motor retaining bolts. Remove thefan from the blower motor. Reverse the process to install your newblower motor.
Answer . If you have not done this before, it is a very time consuming job. Replacing the heater core is not the problem. Getting to it is. Unless you are willing to start removing panels and know how to remove them without damaging the plastic panels and clips, I suggest you take it to a profess…ional. It is just a matter of removing enough to actually get to the core. Once you get to the heater core, first drain the radiator enough to get the level below the heater hoses. Remove the heater hoses, and then remove and replace the core. (MORE)
This procedure is much the same on all years of Celebrities. First drain the coolant into a suitable container On the firewall locate the two hoses that go into and out of the hearer core and remove them. There should also be rubber insulators on the inlet and outlet of the heater core, save them fo…r the new heater core. Inside the vehicle remove the under dash cover. Locate the heater duct. It has a number of small screws plus clips that hold it in place, remove them. The duct should then be removed. There is also a small cover over the heater core inlet/outlet tubes. It is held on with three screws, one of which is a little hard to see, remove them and take off the small cover. It may be "glued" in place by a tar like insulating material. The heater core is held in place by two strap clamps over it which are held on with two screws in each. Remove the screws and clamps. The heater core will now come out Reverse the procedure to install the new heater core. Refill the coolant and check for leaks. (MORE)
Drain the oil from your 1997 Chevy 5.7 liter engine oil pan. Removethe oil pan retaining bolts. Remove the oil pump retaining bolts.Reverse the process to install the new oil pump.
The blower resister is located under the dash in the passanger footwell. You will have to remove the shroud that extends along the underside of the dash. You will see the blower motor and the wiring harness, the resistor is in front of the blower. Just disconnect the harness from the resistor and tw…o screws and the resistor should drop out. If the resistor is original eqipment the replacement from GM is slightly different. You don't need the plastic retaining part when you put the new one in. Expect some problems putting the shroud back in place... Hope that helps.. I had no high blower and after checking harness with a multimeter had over 14 volts at the plug. Resistor/relay faulty. It is held with two 7/32" head screws and had to unplug two harnesses (carefully with small screw driver, the harnesses are held in with clips that are part of the plug). At my napa store there was two types of resistors, I removed old one first to match. Reverse procedure to install. (MORE)
The heatercore is located on the passenger side under the dash. It is located on the left side of the blower fan. Remove the heater core housing which consists of 5-6 screws. Disconnect the two radiator lines under the hood that run into the firewall. There should only be one bracket holding the hea…ter core in the housing. Remove and replace the heater core in the opposite order. Have a good one. (MORE)
\n. \n Replacing the Heater Resistor Pack \n. \nOpen the hood. On the passenger side of the engine compartment, you will see the radiator overflow/combination windshield washer bottle. Using a pair of dikes, carefully remove the presstabs holding this container in. It will be necessary to use …a pair of pliers to remove the clamp holding the radiator overflow hose from the tank. Also, you will need to unplug the windshield washer pump plug. Take care not to break the pump off of the tank. Remove the pump hoses with gently pulling. Remove the tank. Mounted to the lower portion of the black, plastic evaporator case you will see a square, electronic unit with a plug on it. Remove the plug using a small, flatblade screwdriver to release the latch. Using a 1/4 inch ratchet with a 5.5mm socket, remove the two gold screws holding the resistor board to the case. The new resistor may be slightly different than the old one and may even require a slight modification (cutting of part of the unused portion of the board to fit. You will see what I am talking about, if necessary) Install the new board using the original screws and reinstall the plug. Do not be surprised if the new board fails shortly after installation as GM has been having serious problems with this unit (which is probably why the new board is slightly different than the original). Generally what is happening is that the high blower relay portion of the boards (original and new)are failing. If this occurs, write me back and I will tell you how to install your own external high blower relay. After the ground fails, write me back again and I will tell you how to supply a 'false' ground to correct this problem as well. Whew!\nGood luck!\nSDIgroup (MORE)
It would be to your advantage to have a repair shop do the job for you. Purchase a Haynes Manual that is specific to your car and you will see where I am coming from.
I think you go in behind the glove compatment and then remove the hoses from underneath the hood next the fare wall on the passenger side.
Answer . \nIts very easy, go to your local GM parts counter and order a pigtail for the blower motor resistor harness, all you need to do is cut and connect the appropriate wires together and youll be all set.
I just finished replacing the one in my wife's 2001 silverado.. First, make sure the window is all of the way up.. Next, secure the window at the top with tape, so that it will not slide down when you take out the window regulator.. Now the fun partâ¦you have to remove the door inner panel (t…hat's the part with the arm rest on itâ¦YES THE WHOLE THING.. To get it off, first remove the small triangular trim piece on the inside of the door opposite of the side view mirror.. Pry very carefully and it should come off without any major damage (it is installed with spring clips). Next, pop the window control panel off of the door inner panel (it also has the lock & mirror buttons on it) this will expose the 3 rd screw that needs to be removed prior to removing the door inner panel.. Next, remove the 3 screws that secure the door inner panel there will be one near the arm rest. One on the bottom of the door inner panel, and the one under the window control panel.. Next remove the trim panel that goes around the interior door handle and "work" it off of the door handle.. Now, remove the small trim piece & handle for the interior door lock (just pry gently with a flat bladed screw driver.). Now you should be able to remove the door inner panel. Firmly lift up on the arm rest and the door inner panel should lift up about 1" letting you to pull the door inner panel away from the door.. At this point you will have to unplug the door speakers & window controls as well as the courtesy light at the bottom of the door.. Next, peel the plastic membrane off of the door to expose the window regulator.. You should be able to loosen the screws that compress the window pads (they will be at the bottom of the window glass). After loosening the bolts you can remove the old window regulatorâ¦I think there is 5 screws total.. On my wife's truck, the replacement regulator did not come with the motor, so I had to transfer it to the new window regulator (there was a "shipping" plastic piece on the new one that had to be removed before I could transplant the old motor onto it).. At this point you can start the re-assembly process.. Basically, put the new window regulator back where the old one came out.. There will be 2 notches near the top of the door where the new/old one "hooks" into the door. This should locate the window regulator properly and allow you to START tightening the screws. Do not tighten them until all of them are in place.. Next plug in the window control panel and run the window regulator up until the window glass is sitting at the bottom notch of the "pads" on the window regulator.. Snug the screws on the pads DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN OR YOU WILL BREAK THE GLASS.. Remove the tape at the top of the window and try it out a few times to make sure there is not anything binding and the window goes up & down ok.. Now Re assemble the doorâ¦. I'm not the greatest mechanicâ¦and I had the whole job done in about 1-1/2 hours.. If I had to do it againâ¦I could do the whole job in about 30 min.. Biggest thing is to not force anything. these trim pieces will break easily if you muscle them too much.. Tools needed:. 10mm Deep well Â¼" drive. 8mm deep well Â¼" drive. 6mm deep well Â¼" drive. 5/16" socket Â¼" drive (for the window regulator motor screwsâ¦not metric???). average size flat blade screw driver. duct tape (to hold the window up & to re-secure the plastic membrane inside the door). This writer did a great job explaining the process, and it enabled me to replace both door window regulators on my 2001 Silverado, with only a few bad words being uttered. There are a kajillion web listings for replacement window regulators, and a lot of comments from people who bought them saying they didn't last any time at all, and that most have no parts warranty. I bought the replacement regulators, with motors, made by Dorman. They were easy to install, work great, and have a limited lifetime warranty. I bought 'em from Amazon for less than $130 for the pair, with free shipping; they arrived in 2 days. (MORE)
\n. \n Answer \n. \nRaise the hood, remove the inlet shroud to the blower housing, then remove the top half of the radiator fan shroud. Next start removing the screws that hold a protective cover that is below the blower motor. There are 4 screws and one bolt that secure this. Let this cover …drop down and then the blower resistor can be seen behind the blower motor. Remove the electrical connection plug and then the two screws that hold the resistor in place. Go to this site for great Previa info: http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/previa/ (MORE)
Answer . Some are accessed under hood by the passenger side firewall Some are in vehicle behind glove box area
Answer . Disconnect the - battery cable Raise and support vehicle Remove wiring at top of starter Remove starter mounting bolts Remove starter
Here's are some simple steps The process is simple. 1. First locate the resistor housing which will be in the front passenger footwell right above were the passengers feet would be. It's easy to find just look for a plug with various colored wires, red, brown, light blue, yellow black and purple.… 2. This is the resistor housing...you should see two or three 7/32 screws which hold the housing into the blower motor assembly. Remove the screws and the resistor module should slide out. 3. Follow the purple and black wires back to the blower motor connector. Squeeze and pull the connector...this may take a number of tries but it will come out. If you can not get you fingers or a tool in to depress the clip on the connector to release, try removing front screw of fan motor cover. The plastic cover drops enough from the front to see the connector clip clearly, then aim a long screw driver to depress the clip for release. The part number on the module is 15305077 but you will have an easier time finding it on the Internet or via a parts dealer if you use the GM P/N 89019089. This part is available at major retail auto part stores. To re-install the module just do everything in reverse...If you continue to have problems with the resistors "burning out" you may have an over-voltage problem in the blower motor, which should be check out by a professional. (MORE)
Where can you find electrical parts such as relays and resistors heater fan for a 1965 Chevrolet BelAir?
Napa can still get some of the parts. If they do not have what you need then try. Year One at Tucker, Georgia. The telephone number is 1-800-yearone..
The best thing for you to do is purchase a Haynes Manual that is for your car. They are sold at auto parts stores and bookstores.
shude be on the heater...take off cowling and it shud be held in place by two screws..first check your fuses with a trouble light
The Heater core is difficult to replace on the RAM since it is buried in the plenum box. The box has a convenient door panel that you can open to remove and replace the core. The catch is that the convenient door is on the back of the box and you have to remove the heater box to get to it. This invo…lves removing the steering wheel, steering column, complete dash panel, evacuating the AC, draining the radiator, and finally removing the heater box. Once you have the box out(8-12hrs), the core is simple to replace. You want to be sure that the core is the problem before you undertake this process. If there is a strong smell of antifreeze in the cab or a puddle of coolant on the passenger side floor, the diagnosis is easy. Check that the radiator is full, not the overflow tank, the radiator. On a cold engine you can remove the radiator cap and check the level. It should be full. If there is air in the system it will affect cab heating and engine cooling. Another good check is to feel the two heater hoses going into the firewall from a cold start. The hoses should warm up at about the same rate and get uncomfortably hot-close to radiator temperature. If the core appears to be OK, the next concern is with the blend doors that divert air through the heater core. This is a common failure on the RAM. Check heatertreater.net for an explanation of the operation of the system and a fix for the common problems. The RAM has four different DC servo motor controlled air flow doors that are susceptible to failure and all of these need to be checked by either observing the symptoms of failure or reading the codes. The problems are easy to fix with the HeaterTreater kits, but the OEM dealer fix requires removing the plenum box as described above. It is a costly repair if you take it back to the dealer and are not under warranty. (MORE)
Disconnect neg battery cable. recover r134 AC freon.(it may be unlawfull to release this into the atmosphere) disconnect AC lines in engine compartment at firewall. remove AC condensor remove PCM module from fire wall but do not disconnect the cables from it. Disconnect two heater core hoses from fi…rewall. note hose clamp position prior to doing this step. remove panel under steering column(2 screws) disconnect cables at left of driver under dash. disconnect pneumatic lines to right of driver under dash. remove brake release rod from brake release pull lever. remove hood lever (2 screws). remove 2 steering column nuts and lower steering column onto driver seat. make sure steering column is in locked position with front wheels aligned straight ahead. remove brake light switch from steering column. remove screws holding down drink holder on center tunnel. disconnect air bag cable from center tunnel bracket connector. remove 2 10mm screws from center bracket under dash. remove driver side cowel panel under dash exposing 13mm bolt. remove passenger side cowel panel under dash exposing 13mm bolt. loosen both 13mm bolts to allow entire dash assembly to be raised. remove 5 10mm screws at top front of dash panel near windshield. open glove box door, pull on rear of box to allow door stops to pass through dash at each end of door. lift glove box out of hinge and set aside. disconnect heater fan plug and ac/heater module cable behind glovebox. unless i missed something the entire dash assembly can be pulled rearward slightly , then raised up partially onto front seats. you can secure assmbly in the raised position with a rope or bungee cord. the ac/heater module is now accessible which has the heater core mounted in it. from inside cab find and remove 3 nuts securing ac/heater module to firewall note ground wire position on heater core bracket. from inside engine compartment remove 4 nuts at firewall that secure ac/heater module to firewall. once all nuts are removed pull ac/heater module rearward from firewall and then out the passenger side door. remove the bad heater core. rinse all spilled coolant from ac/heater module with water and allow to completely dry before re-installing. install new heater core into ac/heater module. reverse the ac/heater removal procedure to install module and dash assmbly back to starting positions. this job can be a pain. take frequent breaks and do not rush or you will break things. if possible work with a helper. good luck (MORE)
the relays are behind the glove box. you have to take the glove box out to have access to the relay for the heating system
Under the passenger side dash of the 2004 Dakota, remove the blowermotor cover. The resister is visible with the cover off, unbolt itand replace the resister.
\nAlmost all modern body side moldings are attached by way of one or more 2 sided adhesive strips. Skinny moldings may only have one strip, wide moldings almost always will have two strips. First thing to do is to wait for a warm day or do it in a heated garage. The next thing is to heat the moldi…ng at one end with a heat gun or hair dryer, being careful not to burn the paint in the process. It's possible, but not likely. After the molding heats up using fingers only, pick at the end until it comes up. As it does, some of the adhesive will separate and you can fold the molding back (doubled over). When you've done that keep continuous pulling pressure on the molding while applying heat to the joint as it separates from the paint. Don't worry that some adhesive will stick to the paint as the molding comes off. Once the molding is completely off, wash the area with soap and water so you don't work dirt into the paint while getting the rest of the adhesive off. Warm the remaining adhesive and roll it off with your thumb. It's tedious, but most of it will come off this way. After you've gotten most of the adhesive off with the thumb roll method, take WD40 and soak a rag with it. Take the rag as if you're waxing the area and wipe the residue until the surface feels smooth as you wipe it. After all of the residue is up you'll see that there will be a pronounced dirt pattern in the outline shape of the molding. Use any major brand liquid cleaner wax, and you see that the dirt residue comes up nicely. I just removed the hideously wide moldings on my 04 Silverado today and you can not see any evidence that they were ever there. Mine is a white truck, it's possible that darker colors, especially those left outside might have some paint fading which means that the color "might" be different under where the molding was. Good luck. (MORE)
Remove the glove box, Remove the lower trim panel from the facia above the passenger side footwell and the lower trim panel from the centre of the facia. . Release the retaining clip and remove the passenger side front footwell air duct. . Disconnect the wiring connector from the fan motor, noting… the correct routing of the wiring. . Working your way around the fan motor air distribution housing, undo the retaining screws, then unclip the motor from the housing . Remove the fan motor . From inside the car, reach up behind the air disribution housing, and disconnect the wiring connector from the underside of the blower resistor which is on the left hand side of the air distribution housing, unclip the resistor from the air distribution housing. (MORE)
well it depends on whether or not you are doing the work yourself. If you are doing the work yourself, then you cost would be around 150 dollars for parts and however much you and 3 of your buddies drink. The reason you are going to need 3 of your buddies is that it is easier to just take the bed co…mpletely off and get into the gas tank from there if it is an intank pump which I think it is. Happy fixin (MORE)
First take the glove box out. Look up on top of the heater box, you will see a narrow flat plug, unplug it, then take the two 7or8mm screws out and that is the heater resistor. Pull up and out on it, it will have three springs one of which will have a diode in it. They cost around 20 dollars at napa…. Put new one back in replace screws, plug back in and your done. (MORE)
Behind the Radio/ Heater Control, center console, mounted against the firewall. And yes, it's extremely difficult to replace. It involves basically tearing the entire dash board apart.
Drain the radiator. Disconnect the heater hoses. Remove the screwsholding the heater core case and remove the whole assembly. Removethe core and install the new on in the case. Reverse the procedureto finish the installation.
Disconnect negative battery terminal. Remove serpentine belt. Remove alternator. You don't need to remove the wiring. Just move it out of the way. Drain the radiator. Remove the belt tensioner assembly. (3 bolts) Dorman 47065 is the part # which includes the fitting for the intake manifold and the w…ater pump housing. Some antifreeze on the o rings or silicone grease will help installing the new elbows. (MORE)
Its very easy once you have the correct wiper blades. The 2001 Chevrolet Silverado 2500 has the most common hook-end wiper arms. See sources and related links below for installation videos. Also, purchase the replacement blades first and there will be additional instructions/illustrations on the re…placement packages. Locate and press the tab or button where the wiper blade is inserted into the hook of the wiper arm and pull wiper blade out of hook. You may have to rotate and flex the blade to make enough clearance for the hook to pass through. (MORE)
Heater-A/C Control Lighting Since I am not familiar with your 2003 Silverado, the following generic answer usually will apply to almost all vehicles. The heater-A/C control is back lighted by one or two small lamps [bulbs] mounted in a lamp-holder(s) inserted into the rear of the control assembly.… Normally, the holders insert into a hole, and are locked in place by turning 1/4 turn to the right [clockwise], and removed by turning 1/4 turn counterclockwise. Depending on the amount of room behind the dash, and around the heater-A/C control assembly, you may be able to remove the holder [s] by reaching up behind the dash. If there is not room for you to work, then you will have to remove the assembly from the dash panel to access the lamp-holder(s). (MORE)
Use a 5.5 mm socket to remove the three bolts in the panel underthe dash, then remove the 2 bolts out of the blower resistor.Disconnect the wire connector, then remove the resistor.
To replace the heater switch on your k1500 isn't to big of a job. There are a few screws on the bottom of the dash facing. Remove those. Now the face cover will pop of by pulling on it. Some models do not even have screws. Now the switch is exposed and there is 2 to 4 screws holding it in. Remove th…em. Now the wire harness or harnesses simply unplug. Installation is reverse. Good luck my friends. jc2179 (MORE)
Next to the battery on the passenger side. Gotta reach down a little for it. Took me a while to find it..
Disconnect the negative battery cable. . Drain the cooling system into a clean container for reuse. . Remove the air cleaner and duct assembly. . Remove the wiper linkage. . Remove the heater hoses from the heater core. . Remove the lower center console. . Remove both instrument panel insulato…rs. . Remove the heater outlet module screws. . Remove the heater cover. . Remove the heater core mounting clip and line clamp screws. . Remove the heater core. . Install the heater core. . Install the heater core mounting clip and line clamp screws. . Install the heater cover. . Install the heater outlet module screws. . Install both instrument panel insulators. . Install the lower center console. . Install the heater hoses from the heater core. . Install the wiper linkage. . Install the air cleaner and duct assembly. . Refill the cooling system. . Connect the negative battery cable. . Run the engine to normal operating temperatures; then, check the climate control operation and check for leaks. (MORE)
Normally the wires and plug in can be purchased at the GM dealership. Will have to cut the wires back if they are melted and solder the wires together. Can also use a heat shrink butt connector to connect wires. Recommend the heater resistor be replaced and the heater blower motor be checked for wea…r or noisy bearings. (MORE)