How do you replace power window motors?
Remove the old one and put the new one in. Extremely difficult job. -Long answer: Remove the door panel. Find the motor and drill out the rivets or get the old motor out by any means necessary. Unplug the motor
Bolt in your new window motor and plug it back it. Before you replace the door panel, turn your car back on and make sure that the window motor is working. If it works replace the door panel. If not check the fit of the motor and the wiring.
takes about 3 hours your first time if you have all the tools you need and know how to get the door panel off.
Bolt in your new window motor and plug it back it. Before you replace the door panel, turn your car back on and make sure that the window motor is working. If it works replace the door panel. If not check the fit of the motor and the wiring.
takes about 3 hours your first time if you have all the tools you need and know how to get the door panel off.
69 people found this useful
I just tried to fix mine and got the panel off ok after removing 3 very well hidden screws. Then drilled out studs for the motor and the whole window assembly came down. Off to dealership to get them to do it as Im totally lost now! So becare if you dont really know what your doing!
1. remove door panel trim. The regulator is riveted to the power window motor, with 3 large rivets. Three other large rivets atatch this whole assy to the inside of the door. It is important to drill out the rivets holding the regulator /and motor to the door, and leaving the motor attached to the r…egulator, because the regulator has a heavy spring that will be released if the rivets are removed. To separate the regulator and motor you need to drill a hole in the regulator arm, and place a nut and bolt through the hole, at a point that will keep the spring compressed once the motor is removed. Now that the regulator is secure, the rivets on the motor can be drilled out, and motor separated. The new motor needs to be bolted onto the regulator, or riveted. The factory rivets are large, and it is doubtfull you will find such large rivets, or a rivet gun for that purpose, so stick with bolts and nuts. reinstall the complete assy, and again bolt in the whole assy inside the door. bolts and nuts are a real pain in the butt to use in such a confined space, but again rivets of such a large size are hard to find, along with a real large rivet gun. I reccommend using nylon locking nuts so they will not come loose after a certain amount of time and vibration. A set of rubber door stops is also usefull in holding the window glass in the up position while work is being done. You will find a rivet gun that size at Habor Freight cheap china made but will do the trick. (MORE)
I had this problem: 1. put new spark plugs (change all) 2. put new spark-wires 3. if this wan't help check the rotor cap for any cuts (if there are cuts inside the rotor cap the they will be very very fine) better is to buy a new. 4. You should make a injector cleaning Get a Chilton's Manual. It exp…lains how to do it fairly well. Then all you need is a little patience and mechanical skill. It is also easier to pull out the entire regulator with the assembly, then remove the motor from it. I had to pull the whole regulator out of door. But keep in mind you must remove window first,then put regulator in a vise,so the spring tension wont be released.If you dont have a vise drill a hole in the arm with the teeth in it so you can bolt it to the X frame,so the tension dont get released. You proberly have to drill out rivits on old motor also. (MORE)
Hey Stacy==It isn't the easiest thing to do and you need special tools. I suggeast you take it to the trim shop. GoodluckJoe The only special tool you need is a trim panel remover tool that you can buy for under $10. See my related link for full instructions on how to do the repair. dude take …it to safelite you ain't gonna figure it out just gonna give your self a headach btw its called a panel poper and its called a door panel nice try though yea it's a door panel, but the tool is a trim panel remover. (MORE)
You dont need to replace the motor just fix it. Remove the door panel by taking out a couple of screws around the inside door handle, the bottom rear of the door and pull the panel up and out. Unplug the window, door lock and courtesy light plugs. You will find three bolts that hold the motor in pla…ce. Remove them and the motor will fall out. Now unplug the motor and it is ready to fix. There are a few people on eBay selling the bushings that go bad, buy one of these kits. Each motor gear assembly has three bushings, they are sacrificial and will rot over time, it they where not there damage to the motor gears could occur they protect against it. The bushings can be tricking to get in, but if you get all three of them diagonally in and push hard they will slide in. When putting the motor back in make sure the outer gear goes onto the crescent shaped large gear in the door, if not you will just be putting the motor outside the gear. Put the connectors and door panel back on and you have spend one hour and $9 (That's what I paid for the bushings on eBay) (MORE)
I suggest you take it to a trim shop as there are spring loaded parts and sharp edges inside the door.
This is a work in progress - replacing rear passenger side window regulator with broken cable on '91 Ford Explorer: Caution: Expect the entire exercise to take the larger part of your weekend. Remove all interior door handles, trim, plastic backing and speakers; remove all exterior trim including th…e rubber gaskets, small rear window section and window guides. If you do not how to get here, I suggest that you do not attempt this task because it is probably beyond your capability. No insult intended, Ford made it rather difficult to perform the next step. Remove window: drill out aluminum rivets attaching the window mounting bracket to the slide. This is a rather difficult task if you do not have acordless drill and several small (1/16) drill bits. Drill a series of holes in the aluminum material of the rivet (the center is a relatively hard steel shank used to expand the rivet on the inside). Punch out the stem, break apart the rivet remnants and extract pieces. Do the other one. Have someone hold the window or use the window suction cup holder to keep it fro crashing down. Carefuly extract the window. Remove rivets holding the bottom of the slide rail the same general way as above. Remove three rivets holding the motor bracket to the interior door skin (same as above). Disconnect the motor connector Remove two nuts holding the upper end of the window slide. Extract the slide and the motor through the rear inside opening in the inside door skin. As they say. reassembly is a reverse process of disassembly. Use 1/4"-20 0.5" bolts/flat washers/lockwashers/nuts to replace the infernal rivets. Make sure you lubricate the slides, cables and all moving paqrts with (???? - non-hardening grease). Test everything, align if necessary before closing up the door. (MORE)
It depends on what part of the country that you live in. Call a couple of local garages and trim shops for estimates The cost of replacing a part is a very general question that unless specified exactly is hard to answer. First, is who is replacing the part? Is the Dealer, an independent repair sho…p, a junkyard, the guy next door or you doing the replacement. These will all yield different prices. Not to mention that within all of these will be different labor rates and different part price mark ups. Second, what is the quality of the part? Is it a name brand, generic (white box, economy), OEM or used part? All of these will be different. Price will even differ between name brands, sometimes significantly. Thirdly, What is the warranty of the part and who is offering the warranty (the shop the parts house or the manufacturer). Limited Lifetime will have restrictions. Lifetime warranty isnï¿½t always the best part either. Fourthly, Each vehicle can have different options that will affect how long it takes to change a part or make it call for a different part. Such as heavy duty cooling system, air conditioning, 4x4ï¿½s may have a steel plate that may need removal, Automatic or manual transmission, the list goes on. Fifthly, What additional parts will be required? Long life coolant or standard coolant, R12 or R134a air conditioning freon if it needs to be discharged or replaced? Additional adapters other fluids that may need to be added or changed? All of this will affect price. Sixthly, is the car a new car or an older car? Labor manuals or guides are set up based on a new car. Additional time may be required due to seized or rusted bolts, additional aftermarket accessories that were installed etc. So you can see where there is a great potential for variances. I offer this insight: If you take it to an independent garage like I always recommend, consider how long they have been in business. What is the quality of there work, are they honest? (see the FAQ how do you choose an auto repair shop for additional insights). (MORE)
Remove the driver side panel remove loosen the three bolts holding the motor in place, lower the window by hand till you can see the two bolts that hold the window to the raising/lowering mechanism remove the bolts completely, then reach up from bottom and squeeze the bushings out the window sit on …a ledge on the raising/lower bar which is entirely plastic... be careful not to force anything or the window will shatter the power window motor and cable should be replaced unless the trouble is just the motor but if the window moves even a little the trouble is likely in the cable system that is part of the motor assembly.. Remove the driver side panel remove loosen the three bolts holding the motor in place, lower the window by hand till you can see the two bolts that hold the window to the raising/lowering mechanism remove the bolts completely, then reach up from bottom and squeeze the bushings out the window sit on a ledge on the raising/lower bar which is entirely plastic... be careful not to force anything or the window will shatter the power window motor and cable should be replaced unless the trouble is just the motor but if the window moves even a little the trouble is likely in the cable system that is part of the motor assembly. (MORE)
What kind of car/truck? I am changing the motor in a 99 cavalier. I have the door panel off and now I am trying to remove the motor.
Before you try anything else,make sure the window lock switch on the driver side control is not turned off !
Replacement of the window motor on an SC2 (or SC1) is probably the most difficult and protracted of any car ever built. If you succeed on this model, you will be qualified to do the same job on any car ever built on this planet. It just takes guts and willpower. First you take off the inside door ha…ndle (and lock switch if you have electric locks). Removing the inside handle requires sliding the assembly forward 3/16 inch then removing the plastic retainers on the actuating rods with a flat screwdriver and lifting the rods upwards with needle-nose pliers. Then rear view mirror trim is taken off, then the interior trim panel comes off because this has to come off to drill off three rivers holding the window regulator (the up/down mechanism) to the door. Remove the mirror because it covers outer window seal, that has to come off in order to remove the outer (plastic) door panel. On the outer handle, press in two plastic mandrels and prize out two plastic rivets at each end of the door handle. Then prize the handle off the plastic attachment bar. The outer door panel is held on with torx bolts. If the window motor has failed in the down position, and the motor gearbox is still sound, you will not be able to raise the window to get at the motor. Removing the glass from the lower slider rail requires a very special tool comprising four pins to turn the two disc nuts that hold the glass to the slider. Without the tool, you have to drill out the threads of the disc nuts and replace the threaded portion with 10-32 ï¿½ bolts or equivalent. The glass slides out and up easily and needs the forward edge tilted down to get it out of the door. (At this stage of the saga, check the motor connector pins for voltage ï¿½ in case it is not the motor after all that has failed.) Grind off the mandrels of the four pop rivets holding the regulator to the inside of the door. Punch out the remains and drill out with a ï¿½ï¿½ drill. Having someone on the other size to stop the rivets spinning will save a lot of time. Keep fingers out of the way of the mechanism if the window mechanism is down as the counterbalance spring is pre-loaded when the mechanism is down. With the motor and regulator on the floor or on a bench, drill out the three motor attach rivets with a ï¿½ï¿½ or next size bigger drill bit. The motor I bought at Main Auto Parts for $60 came with three long bolts to attach the motor back on the regulator and four short bolts to attach the regulator to the door. It is easiest (least pre-load on the counterbalance spring) to install the motor on the regulator with the window lower slider in the up position. Note that the long, flat-head bolt needs to go adjacent to the regulator gear sector (using one of the other dome-head bolts will foul the gear teeth). Flat-head or countersunk bolts are best to secure the glass to the slider ï¿½ with the bolt head outer most ï¿½ otherwise the bolt tails will foul the door structure when the window is up. Check the window up and down several times before putting the panels back on the door. (MORE)
I found this while looking for info on a Grand Prix. It should help you. http://shbox.com/1/how_tos.html When buying a new window motor, buy it with the regulator. Trust me, the extra money is worth it in the long run. It's such a pain if you change the motor on the regulator. But if you cannot… afford the whole assembly, make sure you drill a whole threw the fixed regulator arm, and geared regulator arm, and run a bolt or a pin threw the holes to keep the two arms aligned. This trick will save your fingers from the spring, and save you a lot of time and effort. But again, save yourself a lot more time and trouble, just buy the motor/regulator assembly. (MORE)
once you take the door panel off you have to drill where the motor is attached to the door. the motor is tack welded to the door....i never did it myself but i had a mechanic do it for me on the side and this is what he told me and there are nuts holding the motor where he drilled it out.
How do you replace a power window motor on a 1995 Pontiac Firebird? Oh man... this is the same problem with my wifes F150. If you drill through the inner door sheet metal or plastic you can access the final of three rivets. To remove the motor you have to drill out the rivets. Get a rebuilt motor f…or about $80 (ouch) and reassemble with the nuts and bolts that were included in the box, that replace the rivets. I think I had to cut the wires and solder up the original connector to the motr. The wires were color coded. You can try to remove the window and regulator as an asembly.. but you would be a fool. Drill. It'll take you under a half hour. (MORE)
Answer . i've replaced both window motors on my 1999 Trans am. cheap GM quality there.. order yourself a new one (or two...the other will go, trust me) on-line for about $30 - $40 each.. then go here to see the step-by-step. http://shbox.com/page/windowmotor18.html you'll be working blind most …of the time due to the door's contruction and the way the motor hides inside, but with a little effort, you can do it. the first one took me 45 minutes to replace, the other only took about 25 once i got the hang of it. (MORE)
Answer . \nYou remove the door panel, remove the screws or bolts holding the old one in, unplug the wire and throw the old one in the nearest trash can. Plug the wire into the new one, re-install the bolts and door panel. About an hour job.
Lightly pry up the trim around the edges of the door first (it will still be held in place by the screws and armrest/handle). There are plastic rivets that potentially can be saved depending on how well this is done; otherwise, you can replace them later, if necessary, with "HELP!" equivalents found… at the Pep Boys, etc. Unscrew armrest (there is one screw/bolt underneath the small circle). Unscrew the lock and handle plastic. Lift the entire fabric up to take it off. To take the motor out yourself, you'll have to get a good drill and a 1/2" hole saw bit to cut through the rivets holding the motor in place to the sheet metal. You can fold the metal track/brace that the motor uses without worry, to help get it out. You will probably have to discontent the locking mechanism linkage. IT IS IMPORTANT TO REMEMBER to put everything back just as you found it (even if that seems stupid in some instances--e.g. the metal track/brace IS ACTUALLY supposed to be in between the parts of the locking mechanism linkage). To attach the new motor to the door, I used long store bought bolts (toggle bolts without the toggle) and large diameter fender washers and matching nuts. There should be 3 or four total you'll have to do. When putting the bolt through the motor bolt holes, make sure that the end of it is facing you and not the inside of the door (you don't want to scratch the glass of course). This also makes it easier to tighten the bolt (obviously from the outside). Do it in this order: bolt (open end facing you, through the sheet metal holes you've made), fender washer, nut. You can then shorten the bolts as necessary with either a hacksaw or bolt cutter (which I preferred). Reattach the locking mechanism linkage with the brace/motor track in between (as it was before). To put the trim back nicely, replace the several plastic rivets first. Insert the lock linkage end through the hole in the trim (probably the belt simultaneously from the bottom). Approach from the top first. Seat the plastic rivets as closely as possible and work your way down, pushing in. Hope this helps--FrancisAnswers. Answer Best to have a dealer do this. It is an extremely difficult job. If you are mechanically inclined you can do it though. Remove the door panel. Find the motor and drill out the rivets or get the old motor out by any means necessary. Unplug the motor Bolt in your new window motor and plug it back it. Before you replace the door panel, turn your car back on and make sure that the window motor is working. If it works replace the door panel. If not check the fit of the motor and the wiring. takes about 3 hours your first time if you have all the tools you need and know how to get the door panel off. (MORE)
Start by removing the two Phillips screws in the door handle. Then remove the three holding the plastic trim strip at the back of the door next to the window. Now pull off the door panel. Grab the bottom of the panel and work your fingers behind it and just pull. It is held on by 5 or 6 plastic snap…s. They might break but you can buy new ones at any parts store for like 2 or 3 bucks. To have easy access to the motor, unbolt the door handle bracket and remove all the plastic and foam insulation on the door. The bracket is the thing in the middle of the door sticking out with two 10mm bolts holding it down. There are now five rivets holding the motor in. It is actually attached to the entire window lifting mechanism and has to come out as one piece. I punched out the centers of the rivets and drilled them out with like a 1/4" drill bit. When there are two left you may want to brace the window up or have someone hold on to it because it will slide down on you. There is an electrical connector hooked to the assembly which you can unclip with your fingers. It is in one of the smaller holes toward the front of the door. Now you see at the big hole in the back of the door an arm that pushes the window up and down. With the window slid up and the rivets out, haggle with the arm and get it off the slide. This arm is attached to the lifting mechanism and the window motor. It's big and all comes out as one piece. That's the easy part. I have taken these things apart to see why this is such a common problem and it looks like the weatherproff sealing grease gets on the brushes and commutator of the motor and shorts out the motor. Theres just a bunch of black stuff in there. I cleaned it and put it back together with no improvement. So you will be needed a whole new motor and assembly. Good luck with the junkyards because this has happened on every jimmy I've owned and all that my friends have owned. I got lucky twice at the yard and found blazers that already had their motors replaced and worked good. But if you get one there have them hook it to a battery and raise it up and down a few times. Sometimes they work for a while and go out quick, plus most yards do not refund or exchange on any electrical parts. So that leaves the dealership and the parts store. Dealership probably wants way too much and I bet you can order these at any parts store also. I do not know how much they are but can't be more than 80 bucks. Good idea to take one of the plastic door panel snaps with you to get more. Now installation is opposite or removal. You can either re-revit or bolt the motor back in. You may have to tape the platic back in as the sealing goo is probably hard or worn off. Easy peasy, there you go. You probably just save 200-300 bucks over have a car place or dealer do it. Good luck! (MORE)
Answer I just finished replacing mine. There are 5 screws to get the door panel off. Two plastic screws are easily visible at the back edge of the door (screw out, but just push them back in like thumb tacks). The inside door lever has a small circular cover in the cup, the leading edge of which has… a gap to insert a thin screwdriver and pry back (it is attached and hinges backwards). The small holder behind the window button also has a cover with a gap on the leading edge to pry it right out to reveal another screw. The last screw is behind the cover of the courtesy light. The cover has a small gap on the bottom to pry it out. Once all the screws are out, pry up the back edge of the plastic panel on which the window/door lock buttons are located (there is a clip which pops when it releases). Once the back edge is lifted out, pull it straight backwards to pull out the front edge. Underneath, unclip the window and door lock wires the window clip has a button on the broad, front edge. The door lock has a groove along one edge with a tab that needs to be depressed with a strong thumbnail or screwdriver). Once these are unclipped place the panel to the side. The door handle is next to come off. Pull the back out first, then pull it straight back and out to detach it from the door panel. Just let it hang from the cables for now. There is a small black trim panel at the leading edge of the window. Pry the top straight out to detach it from the clip, then lift it straight up and off. Then work around the door panel prying it off the clips around the perimeter, starting at the bottom, then up the sides. Reach under the bottom of the panel and pull out the courtesy light (it just pops out). Twist the door lever and feed it through the panel while pulling the panel out. Now lift the whole panel up off the window track, starting at the back and then the front and place it to the side. Peal off the plastic (its just held around the edge by gooey tar - leave the tar, it is needed to press the plastic back on). I just let it hang on the bits that are left poking through. Hopefully you can see the bottom of the window and the two screws on either side of the centre window track to detach the window. Unscrew these to detach the window. I lifted the window all the way up and used duct tape to hold the window up until I could buy a new motor (my window was stuck down). I stuck half the strip of duct tape to the outside of the window, then over the top of the door and stuck it on the inside. You can see the motor inside the door in the upper, forward opening. This lets you see where the three 10mm nuts are that need to be taken off to detach it (the screws are attached to the motor - you don't need to worry about losing these). Between the two cables of the door lever at the top centre of the door is the top nut for releasing the window track. Directly below that nut near the bottom of the door is the bottom nut to release the track. Pull the track and motor out the large bottom, rear hole in the door. The only thing I could locate was a whole motor/regulator/track assembly so I just replaced the whole thing by doing everything in reverse. You can use brake cleaner to (carefully) spray into the window tracks to clean any gunk out (you'll see the black liquid run out the bottom of the door), then silicone lube to lubricate them after they're dry. Do this before putting the door panel back on, as you don't want this stuff getting on it. This will ease the load on your motor and improve the speed of your windows (while your at it, some silicone lube on the three tracks / wheels of the sliding doors will make them glide like new too). Another answer: The window is held to the regulator with two hexed screws (10mm). Remove the screws. From here you will see 3 nuts (10mm) towards the front of the door. That is the motor. There are also two other nuts holding the regulator in place. Remove the 5 nuts and start to push the bolts through. You might want to consider removing the speaker in the door to have improved access (4 screws and a wire clip). A friendly bit of advice is to not remove the plastic lining by peeling it off. It is adhered with tar and will get on anything it touches. Instead, cut around the inside perimeter of the adhesive, thus leaving a ring of plastic to cover the tar adhesive. Also, disconnect the motor wire clip. When you push the regulator bolts into the door, the assembly will drop along with the window. Hold the window and let it drop gently to the bottom of the door. You can remove it later by rotating it 90 degrees and pulling it out through the window slot. Remove the motor and the regulator The problem you will encounter is that you will need to unscrew the power window guide and cable assembly from the motor. there are 3 small bolts (7mm) for this. Make certain that you do not unravel the cable in the spool. This should be sealed and not easily done, but just make a note of it. It is in easy access to do. I guess you know that the motor is bad? Sometimes, like what I am going through, is that the cable gets kinked and will jam thus causing the motor to get very hot. Once the motor is out you can bench test it by rehooking it up to the plug-in from the switch. Good luck and remember to try and not disturb the cable housing that fits into the gear of the motor. (MORE)
Answering "How do you replace the power . \nStart by taking off the panel of course. If your lucky enough the rivets have already been drilled out and bolts replace them, if not drill them out. You may see 4 bolts they will be in the first 1/3 of the door like under the wing window, half way dow…n. Loosen those bolts and take the window glass off the track. This may be tricky but can be done by one person. Once the arms(regulators?)are off the tracks prop up the window glass with something, or have someone hold it up. Now you have to work this whole contraption motor/regulator/arms out the larger hole in the door. Yes, it too will come out probably after a few choice cuss words. when you do get it out and ready to take it off the regulator, be careful they say it has 40lbs of pressure in that coil spring, mine had 2 holes in the big gear, in which I put bolts to keep it from moving its full range if it let go.\nReplace motor and repeat the same steps backwards to install.\n. \nOh a good curcuit tester is a big help, if you have to replace the switch too. (MORE)
Answer . \nremove the screw in the inside handle then pop out the plastic piece and remove the screw inside there (big torx bit) remove any other visible screws and pop off the panels retainer clips, disconnect the power lock and window wires.
first you must take the door panel off . take out all of the screws then use a screw driver to pry out the corner of the panel, pull the pannel off. then unbolt the window from the track. tape the window up to get it out of the way. unbolt the track and motor. they are sold alreday assembled as one …piece. Bolt the new motor and track in place screw the windoe back on to the track put the door pannel back on and you are done. (MORE)
Checker Auto Parts sells the part for about $100 with a one year warranty. I bought one here in Tucson and had the local body shop install it for about $85.
Answer . I'm about to do just that, providing it's not some sort of limit switch, b/c, the window (dr. side) has a lot more play in it, pivots 2" to 3". My window will go up 2" and stop, if I wait 10 min. it will go up another 2"-3"etc.. So it may be overheating b/c of whatever. But regardless I…'ll let everyone know what and how I did. (MORE)
The answer will cost you a commitment to post the next thing you can't find on here but figure out yourself. Stop reading if that is too much to ask. :) Pull the three screws from the door panel. Pull the door panel up and off. It has a couple of hooks at the bottom that will come out when you pull …the whole thing up. Don't worry about pulling the wiring loose just pull a couple of the plastic retainers out so you have more room to work. Pull the sound insulation (starting at the bottom) loose about a foot up and tape it out of the way. Swing the door panel back toward the rear of the door and hook the top on the door lock. Remove two of the 5/16ths screws holding the motor on. One through a small hole, and the other through a triangle already cut in the door frame. The third is a trick to get to. You can use a small wrench from the bottom but I drilled a hole in the door frame so I could get a socket in. Reach in and pull the motor loose by shaking it. It is still attached by a rivet that you'll have to drill out (punch out the center pin first) but pull it loose so you know which rivet to drill (lower left hand). Good luck and don't forget your commitment. (MORE)
The answer will cost you a commitment to post the next thing you can't find on here but figure out yourself. Stop reading if that is too much to ask. :) Pull the three screws from the door panel. Pull the door panel up and off. It has a couple of hooks at the bottom that will come out when you pull …the whole thing up. Don't worry about pulling the wiring loose just pull a couple of the plastic retainers out so you have more room to work. Pull the sound insulation (starting at the bottom) loose about a foot up and tape it out of the way. Swing the door panel back toward the rear of the door and hook the top on the door lock. Remove two of the 5/16ths screws holding the motor on. One through a small hole, and the other through a triangle already cut in the door frame. The third is a trick to get to. You can use a small wrench from the bottom but I drilled a hole in the door frame so I could get a socket in. Reach in and pull the motor loose by shaking it. It is still attached by a rivet that you'll have to drill out but pull it loose so you know which rivet to drill. Good luck and don't forget your commitment. (MORE)
I was looking for help doing this recently and someone on this list provided this link which I will now pass on to you. http://www.usedpartscentral.com/tech/page1.htm Good luck.
Assuming that the scissor assembly is functional and the motor has quit working you may purchase a replacement motor only. The motor is attached to the scissor assembly with rivets but you can substitute with specialty flat headed furniture bolts and lock nuts purchased at a home improvement store. …Most important: Do not purchase a cheap motor from a discount mail order auto supplier. You get what you pay for. I went through two in less than a week's time before I bit the bullet and purchased one from the dealer. It cost twice as much but was made of all metal rather than plastic. The window is too heavy to raise and lower with cheap plastic parts. . First, you must remove the plastic door panel by removing two screws in the door rest then pulling out on the rest of the door. Be sure to pull out the small lamp from the red/white reflector assembly. You may damage some of the plastic fasteners ( which can be purchased at an automotve supply store). Next, disconnect all the wires from the switch assembly not forgetting the power door lock. Then remove the inside door handle and lock lever, disconnecting the rods from the backside. Then remove the metal inner door panel by sliding the panel so that the two idler wheels riding in the window channel come out. . The motor and scissor assembly are riveted to this door panel so you will have to drill out these rivets. You can purchase replacement rivets at an auto parts store (which require a heavy duty pop riveter to install) or do what I did and replace with 5/16" bolts and nuts. . Be sure and test the assembly before you bolt everything back together. (MORE)
How do you replace a power window motor ( rear passenger side ) in a 2002 Ford Explorer
Answer . Begin by carefully removing the door liner. There may be an assortment of screws and bolts holding the liner in place. Once all have been undone, gently left the liner up-wards and it should pull free from the door.. Remove the tech screws that hold the large access panel and remove the… panel. This will allow access to the electric motor and it's connections.. Remove the electrical connector, reach into the door cavity behind the motor and feel for the three retaining bolts hold the motor in place.. Undo the three bolts - the window motor should now be free to move.. Carefully, wrestle the motor free of it's position and remove from door.. Replace the motor by following the reverse of these brief instructions. (MORE)
You will need to remove the inside door panel of your Chevrolet ElCamino. Remove the wiring harness from the window motor. Remove thewindow motor linkage. Remove the window motor retaining bolts.Reverse the process to install the new power window motor.
how to replace power window motor for 2003 dodge grand caravan?. how to remove side panel dodge caravan 2003?
This site has a step by step guide for an older Firebird, but it is identical to what you need for a 2001. http://shbox.com/page/windowmotor.html
IMPORTANT. READ BEFORE STARTING! 1. You MUST have a large rivet tool to replace the new regulator to the door. It is the proper way. If you try to use nuts and bolts, they will work their way loose during repeated operation. 2. Do NOT remove the electric motor from the The lift arm is under tension …and can cause serious injury if allowed to retract. REMOVAL.remove door trim panel and the water shield. secure the window glass in the half up position with rubber door stops. make sure the weight of the glass is supported before going further. remove the rear guide channel nuts and remove that assembly outta the way. drill out the rivets that hold the power window regulator. unplug the electrical connector on the regulator and move it til its off the guide channels and then remove through the access hole. INSTALLATION. When replacing the regulator to the motor, follow those instructions in the packet or you will get hurt. place a screw in the lock hole during the swap. Place regulator into the guide channel assemblies. Secure regulator to the door using 1/4 in. rivets and the rivet tool.Plug in the electrical connector. Replace and tighten the rear channel assembly. Install the dorr trim panel. (MORE)
It will be best for you to buy a Haynes Manual at a parts house or bookstore. It will give you full details and pictures. They have them that are specific to your car so you are not buying information on something you do not need.
don't just replace the window motor replace the whole car. get a hybrid or something
pull off the door panel, and the will be some plastic, pull that off and you will see the bolts holding the motor on the door, watch how you pull it off and remember how it go's back in, shouldn't take you more then 20-45 mins to pull it and replace it
Type your answer here... there are two screws on bottom under flaps and speaker and undo plate where the lock is one more push up on the bottom of it.
the panel on the door must first be removed. youll see the motor there with screws holding it against the door. remove the screws and remove the motor. there are ball bearings in the motor that some times fall apart. unabling the motor to do its job. good luck
when you get the door panel off the window regulator is rivited in from the factory you will have to knock the steal pins out of the center so you can drill the rivit don't do what i did be shure to block or do somthing to hold the window to keep it from falling and break something else. then you ca…n get the regulator out to get to the motor. you will need a 1/4 drill bit to drill the rivits and some bolts to reinstall the regulator mine had 4 (MORE)
this is something I need to know as well... I have R & R'd power window motors before. pretty simple really you just have to find the trick to getting your door panel off without breaking any of your connectors holding it together. most that I have taken off disconnect from the bottom of the door an…d have to slide upwards to be removed. In some vehicles the connectors absolutely have to be replaced; I don't think this is one of those models but it is not that expensive to replace them anyways so it would be a good idea (annoying squeaks and rattles from these can drive you crazy). I do not know if there is any steps that are different from normal power window R & R's if there is... please... do tell (MORE)
If the window motor runs, replace the plastic spacers with ball bearings or bolt nuts. Oliver said it.
Remove the window regulator assembly from the door. . Remove the motor from the regulator by drilling out the attaching rivets with a 3/16 in. drill bit. . Connect the window motor to the regulator with 3/16 in. rivets. . Install the window regulator assembly.
You have to take the door panel off by a few screws in the trim lift the panel up and pull out and it is a black cylinder
Hi, you remove the interior panel then the plastic cover then remove bottom motor plate cover. put a screw driver in one of the open holes or some how keep window up so it doesn't come down. unplug the motor. get an 11 mill open end box wrench and remove 3 little bolts behind the window regulator. o…ne is at a 9 o clock position one at 6 o clock and one at 3 o clock. remove bottom regulator bracket rivet or loosen bolt and wiggle the motor out. grease gear teeth and reinstall motor hold in position with one hand install plate cover and the 3 small bolts with the other hand, one by one tighten up and also tighten up the bottom regulator bracket bolt. reinstall plate motor cover and reverse the easy procedure. HOLLA! Edgar Soto 1981 Custom Daytona Twin Turbo Greenwood Corvette Stingray Orlando, FL. 32822 (MORE)
remove door panel assembly some models are cable driven and require replacement of entire regulator assembly if not cable driven then you can replace only the motor itself each vehicle is different some are bolted in place and others are riveted to the door shell and require cutting or drilling …the rivets out (MORE)
First, be sure it's the motor, not the switch. There's a quickdisconnect inside the door. Disconnect the motor there and attacheither an automotive test light or a voltmeter and try toraise/lower the window. You should see 12 VDC with a meter or thetest light should come on. If it does, try the moto…r. To remove themotor, first secure the window glass with several long pieces ofduct tape, or something similar, to keep the glass from fallingonce you remove the window regulator. There are three or fourrivets that hold the window regulator assembly to the door. Thesewill have to be drilled out and then you can remove the assembly.You have to slide the regulator arm out of the bottom track of thewindow itself, and then it's a matter of maneuvering the assemblyout of the door. Once it's out, there are three bolts that hold themotor to the assembly. Remove the motor and replace it. I haveaftermarket motors from one of the major auto parts stores whichhave lifetime warranties, which I've already made use of. They aremuch cheaper than the dealership, and will honor their warranty aswell. Do your homework on price. To reinstall, reassemble themotor/regulator and worm it back into the door. Since you drilledout the rivets, you can use 1/4-20 bolts, washers and nuts to holdthe assembly on. Put the bolts in from INSIDE the door, so that thebolt head is facing inside, and the bolt body is sticking out. Useat least a 1 inch bolt, and once you have the washers and nuts onit, tighten it down and cut off the excess using a rotary tool witha cutoff wheel. If you don't, your door panel won't fit. This isexactly what I did on my truck, like I said, on both doors. Twice.Once because I used a part from a junkyard and it died, and oncebecause the aftermarket part broke. Hope it helps... (MORE)
You have three options on the window regulators A.) go to the salvage yards and your'e looking at $25-$35 (Used) B) Go on E-Bay and you will find 'em for $60-70 (Used) C.) Go to Parts-Geek .com for new ones ($100+) An MBZ dealer is gonna run you $200+ Independent mechanic probably $50 labor with …your part (MORE)
door panel will have to come off and more than likely the motor has rivets holding it in place so the complete window regulator will have to be taken out of the door and the rivets drilled out to get the motor off and then reinstall new motor with bolts and nuts.