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Loosen the bolt on the alternator that is located at the top that is located in a long curved slot. Loosen the pivot bolt at the bottom of the alternator. Slide the alternator forward to gain slack on the belt. Remove belt and put on new belt. Get a crowbar, jam it in front of the alternator, and pry the alternator back being careful not to crush any wiring or bend any fragile metal. Hold the crowbar in place while you tighten the top alternator bolt with your third hand. Check for proper belt deflection. Tighten pivot bolt. If is squeels when running it's too loose.
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It depends on what model you have, but most are the same. Disconnect the battery! Loosen the tensioner for the serpentine belt and pull the belt off the a…lternator pulley. Remove the bolt holding the alternator at the 4:00 o'clock position Remove the nut at the right rear side of the alternator Remove the bolt at the next to it nearer you. All bolts have 15mm heads, but you're going to need a deep well socket to get the nut off. Pull out the alternator and remove the plug from it and also remove the red wire attached to the back. You're going to need a 13mm socket and a 13mm flat wrench. Replace the alternator by reversing the steps above. Reattaching the serpentine belt is a pain.
I have a 1989 celebrity and it was quiet easy to change the alternator, done it a dozen times. There should be 1 main bolt in the back on the bottom of the alternator,(side t…oward cab). This bolt goes all the way through the mount. Then on the front side there should be a bolt that screws into a mount. Disconnet the main battery cable and unplug the wires on the bottom and there it should be loose.
I think it has a serpentine belt,at least mine does You can put a 15mm wrench on the tensioner and pull it toward you, the belt will slide right off.
I know that on the E30's (until 1991) the alternator has a mounting bolt that controls tension on the belt. (1)Just loosen that bolt and the rest is a breeze. (2) Move the al…ternator in to remove the old belt. (3) Put the new one on. (4) Use a bar or large wrench as a lever to move the alternator out and to put tension on the belt. (5) Hold it there while tightening the mounting bolt. (6) Wash your hands 'cause you're done.
New for the Chevrolet Astro/GMC Safari I just did this on a 1992 Astro EXT cargo van having the Z-code 4.3-liter V6 and automatic transmission; I previously performed this o…peration on a 1994 Starcraft Conversion Astro (EXT) having the W-code 4.3-liter V6 and automatic transmission. On all the Astro/Safari vans I've seen, the alternator is located on the passenger side of the engine. Recommended tools: . 8mm box-end wrench or socket (not all will need) . 10mm DEEP box-end wrench or socket . 13mm box-end wrench or socket . 14mm DEEP box-end wrench or socket . 15mm box-end wrench or socket . 3-inch socket extension . 3/8-inch-drive ratchet . steel "butter knife" or suitable substitute . teflon tape or other "thread sealer" If you elect to use a 1/4-inch-drive ratchet in lieu of the 3/8-inch-drive ratchet, limit its use to 10mm-or-smaller sockets: the threaded fasteners in this application having larger heads require greater torque than can be safely and reliably applied using 1/4-inch-drive hardware. Read this entire procedure first, then decide whether this is a project for you to attempt. There are significant minor differences to the specific procedures involved, to wit: (1) Always observe all applicable safety procedures. (2) Disconnect the cable from the positive (+) battery terminal. For some vans, you will need an 8mm socket or wrench; for others, you will need a 10mm socket or wrench. (3) The power steering reservoir is in the way on vans having the Z-code engine: leaving the hoses attached and avoiding tipping of the reservoir, remove and save the screws that hold the reservoir to the cowl; then bend the hoses and rest the reservoir on the driver's side of the radiator shroud. The air filter box is in the way on vans having the W-code engine. Open the clamps that seal the box, remove the filter: the nuts and bolts holding the airbox in place are visible. Remove the airbox, saving the hardware. (4) The ductwork supplying the engine with fresh air is in the way. Usually, these plastic pieces just click together, but there may be one or more clamps, nuts and/or bolts, or screws holding some of it in place. The offending portion consists of the following pieces: (a) the lower part that turns the air about 90-degrees, so that the air flows upwards, (b) the upright section that channels the air upwards (it looks like an accordion's bellows on the Z-code engine), (c) the upper ductwork connecting the upright section with the air filter housing. I have heard that some ductwork installations are secured using #2 Phillips threaded fasteners (screws); if yours is such an application, you will also need a #2 Phillips screwdriver. (5) Remove serpentine belt. The ratcheting tool that looks like a long, flat handle -- it came with the vehicle as part of the lug wrench kit -- has an opening that fits the pulley on the tensioner. Using the tool, loosen the tensioner with one hand and slip the belt off using the other hand. At this point, whether you need to remove the fan from the front of the engine should be obvious. If you must, be aware that so doing without removing the shroud really isn't going to give you much room (about 1/2 an inch, maybe an inch). If you need more than that, the shroud has to come off so that you can remove the fan. Although at 13.5 inches (34.3mm) circumference and 14.5 inches (37.9mm) circumference respectively, my forearms and upper arms are rather small, I think that needing to remove the fan to have enough room is a highly unlikely condition. (6) Remove the engine oil dipstick bracket from the stud holding the alternator to the bracket. The nut securing the dipstick bracket is probably a 10mm. Remove the dipstick bracket from the stud. Be aware the dipstick tube could slide from the engine. (7) The alternator bracket should be loosened from the front of the engine. Remove the bolts (it should be a trio of 14mm bolts) and save them. This allows the bracket, tensioner and alternator to be tilted away from the engine. At least one bolt may be wet with engine coolant; seal the threads of any such bolt before reinstalling it. (8) Use an appropriate tool to unclip the plug from the alternator (I used a "butter knife), and remove the red wire from the lug at the back of the alternator. The nut securing the red wire to the alternator is probably a 10mm; the stud in the alternator is probably a 15mm (menitoned just in case the new one needs snugging). (9) Remove the bolt from the rear of the old alternator holding it to the bracket (either a 13mm or a 14mm); then remove the stud holding the old alternator to the bracket (either a 13mm or a 14mm); then remove the "hinge" bolt holding the old alternator to the bracket (either a 13mm or a 14mm bolt screwed into a 15mm nut). Installation of the new unit is done by reversing the steps of disassembly. SAFETY NOTES: Be aware that there can exist pinch hazards during this procedure. Also be aware of the possible hazard of falling tools and/or debris. Helpful hint: if possible, have someone else hold the bracket/alternator/tensioner assembly in-place while you start the lower 14mm bolt by hand from underneath the passenger side. This makes installing the upper bolts much easier. Start ALL the bolts before tightening any of them. Generally, it goes pretty quickly if you begin with the "all bolts finger-tight, then all bolts hand (wrench/socket) tight, then all bolts torqued" method. NOTE: Conspicuously dexterous people may not have to remove the alternator bracket, but in my opinion, the procedure is much easier if this is done. You should never have to remove the doghouse (engine cover inside the van) to replace the alternator. If a mechanic told you he/she did it that way, you should be going to a different mechanic.
answer, just replaced my alternator (1995 chey corsica), lift up on the belt ( this will pull up on the tensior), jam a piece of soft wood underneath the tensior (carefully). …That way you have more freeplay to put the belt over the pulley on the alternator. It works and takes only 5 minutes. . Answer . ther is a tesionor pulley that releives pressure to the belt. it should take a 5/8 wrench
you need a serpentine belt tool, you can get one at auto zone or any part store. the alternator is on a pully system with a belt tensioner. place the tool in the tensioner and… pull down, this releases the tension and the belt should come off. besure that you have the proper routing diagram and the correct belt for your engine size and year. Also if you don't want to buy s serpentine belt tool, you can use a 15MM wrench.
Answer there should be a tensioner pully. Put the 3/8 ratchet in the center of it and turn.
On most cars, the upper alternator-mount usually has an elongated hole or slot with a bolt that goes thru it and the alternator-housing. To loosen/tighten the alternator…-belt, just loosen this bolt a little and the top of the alternator can then be swiveled to alter tension on the belt ...when the belt is tight enough (you can only move it 1/4" when pushing at a point that's equal distance between 2 of the pulleys, hold it in that position and tighten the bolt. Sometimes if alternator is difficult to move, it can be pried (and held in position) with wood-handle of a hammer (or other non-metallic item) placed between alternator and the mount.
Remove the bolt on the lower front side and two more bolts on the rear of the alternator. Make sure all nuts are off the bolts. Do not loosen the bolts that hold the alternato…r together. Remove the belt. Now slide the alternator off the mounting bolts. Slide the new alternator onto the two seating bolts, then hand-tighten them. Then slide the next bolt through the alternator and into the engine block.Slide the new alternator onto the two seating bolts, then hand-tighten them. Then slide the next bolt through the alternator and into the engine block. Now tool-tighten all the bolts to secure the new alternator to the engine block.
Answer use a breaker bar to release pressure on automatic belt tensioner
there are two bolts on the bottom af the alternator you have to loosen and one on top in an arch with a slot for adjustment loosen all three and pull the alt towards the… front of the car to remove the belt. install the new one then snug the bolts and adjust the tension then tighten all bolts. even high quality belts will need tightened after they stretch,i usually have to re tighten twice then they are fine,dont overtighten belt tension or you may damage alt or water pump bearings
On a V6 engine the serpentine belt is on the right (passenger) side and is tensioned by a spring-loaded swing arm and pulley. This arm can be pulled up to allow the belt to be… replaced. In theory, it can be done be one person, but it's best if that person has three arms. To replace the belt, put an appropriate socket wrench over the swung pulley pivot nut and lift against the spring tension. This will take about fifteen to twenty kilograms of force, so it's not something you want to hold for more than a few minutes. Once the belt tesion is eased, the old belt can be easily slid off. While holding the tension, use your two remaining hands (or your helper if you aren't equiped with three arms) to place the new belt around the pulley wheels. Gently release the tension on the swing arm and let it's spring tighten the belt. Check to make sure the routing is correct and no fingers have been caught and you're done. With two people, the job should take less than half an hour. With one person, count on an hour and a half. (Also count on aching for several days from holding twenty Kg of spring tension for that time.)
Look for a picture in one of the service manuals, Chilton's, Haynes or the factory service manual. You could also look up the part at an on line auto pars stores such as Autoz…one or Kragens, they usually have a picture.
it depends on the engine. on a 2.8l, the serpentine belt tensioner is below the power steering pump. pay careful attention to how the belt is routed, especially if there is no… belt routing diagram under the hood (should be on the belt guard on top of the engine). release the tension from the tensioner, replace the belt, make sure you have it routed correctly, release the tensioner.
The alternator is mounted on an adjustment bracket. You can loosen the lower bolt a couple turns then loosen the upper bolt a couple turns and slide the alternator forward to …get the old belt off and the new belt on. Hold the alternator back with a big screwdriver or breaker bar to re-tension the new belt while you tighten the top bolt, then tighten the bottom bolt.
By locating and loosening the 'tensioner' for that belt, if the alternator mount does not include a tensioner.