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How do you store 35mm film?
Store your film in a cool, dry and dark place.
I use a mini beer frigde to store all my film in.
I use a mini beer frigde to store all my film in.
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\n. \n Answer \n. \nThe actual 'image' area of the film measures 36mm x 24mm\n. \n Answer \n. \nThere were three image sizes for 35mm cameras:\n. \n24 x 36 "doub…le frame," which is the most popular size and the only size sold today\n. \n24 x 24 "square," which was introduced after World War II as a means of giving the photographer more pictures on a roll\n. \n18 x 24 "single frame," which is the same size as a 35mm movie camera frame. This is also called "half frame." \n. \nHalf-frame cameras are very collectible. \n. \nThere is also a 24 x 60 (or thereabouts) panoramic format--long, skinny pictures.
John W. &Isaiah Hyatt in 1869 by niles
They still make lots of 35mm film.
There are various lengths of prepackaged 35mm film. There are 12 exposure, 24 exposure, and 36 exposure. There are/were also bulk roll film loaders that allowed you to load as… many exposures as could fit inside the film container.
To get the film out, if its not already done you will have to wind the film in. Under the camera there should be a small button, press that in. Now, at the top of the camera (…usually on the left) there should be a winder to reel the film back in, as i said if the film is still stretched across the camera reel it in, you will be able to feel the film coming back as it suddenly gets loose, keep reeling for 5 seconds just to be sure that the film is in the canister. Now with the winder on the top of the camera, pull it straight up. It may feel as if it were going to break or not do anything but keep pulling, it should come up relatively easy. One this happens the back should pop open and you can just tap the canister out. Store it in a cool dry place until its ready for developing. :-)
With respect to "still" photography (i.e. not movies) the answer is no part. I derives the moniker from the fact that roll film first used in what we know of as the 35mm forma…t was intended for movies, which as far as I know, produced an image where one side was 35mm in length. The 35mm name stuck even though the image produced by the still camera is 24mm x 36mm.
Depends on the type of film, B/W, color, transparency etc.
Materials and equipment:Developing tank and reel Bottle opener Graduates or measuring cups Thermometer Timer Clothespins Squeegee Black & white film developer Stop bath Fixer …Hypo clearing agent Wetting agent Steps: 1. Load the film into the tank 2. Mix your chemicals and get them to the correct temperature 3. Fill the tank with water. Agitate it continuously for 60 seconds. Dump it out. 4. Fill the tank with developer. Agitate continuously for 30 seconds then 5 seconds every 30. Leave it in the tank for the recommended time. Empty the tank. 5. Fill the tank with water. Agitate continuously for 60 seconds. Dump it out. 6. Fill the tank with stop bath. Agitate continuously for 60 seconds and dump. 7. Fill the tank with fixer. This one you have a choice on...some people agitate 5 seconds every 30, some 5 every 60, some people don't agitate. I agitate continuously. Dump the tank at the end of the step. 8. Fill the tank with water, agitate and dump. 9. Fill the tank with hypo clear, agitate for a minute and dump. 10. Wash the film for ten minutes, or whatever the hypo clear says to. 11. Put wetting agent in the tank, agitate for a minute and dump. 12. Take the film off the reel. Wipe it off, hang it up to dry. What to do with the chemicals? I like developers like Neofin Blue that are used once--those you can safely dump down the sink if your local laws allow it. Stop bath is just vinegar, and you can pour it down the sink. Wetting agent is dish soap or very close to it, and it can be dumped. Fixer has to be saved--the silver in it pollutes and kills marine life. Fixer is also reusable. A good test regimen relies on pieces of expired film. Cut up a roll of old film into little hunks. Throw one in the fix when you make it, and time how long it takes to clear the film. When it takes twice as long, the fixer is used up.
Daylight film is 5200K, tungsten film is 3200k. ************** K stands for Kelvin, a type of temperature scale
No. People will still need the service.
Well, yes you do. There are instructions here on how to do it yourself at home: ehow.com/how_4450520_develop-35mm-film Or you can send them off to be developed, I personally… use Photobox, via Boots for all of my prints.
Yes, but Kodak still offer a range of high quality professional transparency film but it uses a different chemical process.
Hopefully never, but all good things must come to an end.
There are two ways. (You're talking about the thing you put in the camera, right? That's called a cassette. The "canister" is what the cassette comes in, and you just pop the …lid off of that.) If you've got an old Agfa or Ilford cassette, which is made to be reused, you hold it in your hand with the long side of the spool pointing down, and tap it hard on the table. The end will come off, and then you can slide the spool out of the cassette. Kodak and Fuji cassettes have the ends crimped on. You use a bottle opener to get those open.
I don't use color film, but I develop the black and white myself.
To purchase a 35 mm film camera, one could try their local camera shop. Big box stores and major retail chain pharmacies sell also disposable versions.
There are many different places where an individual can buy a 35mm film scanner. It would be best to check on Amazon or on an online auction site, eBay. It may also be availab…le at other stores like Staples or Office Max.