Determing the condition (or grade) of a coin requires three things: Experience, References and being able to visually inspect the item. Some would argue that visual inspection is not necessary and can be accomplished utilizing photographs. Unfortunately, lighting plays a key factor in hiding/exposing flaws on a coin depending on the reflection and angle. There are many references available, both on the internet and printed media, to assist in the grading of coins. Simply use any search engine, type the words "Coin Grading" and you will have a host of links to choose from. A good printed source is "The Official American Numismatic Association Grading Standards for United States Coins". This book has reference pictures, as well as, descriptions for each coin in each grade. Whichever resource you choose, ensure that they follow the grading guidelines established by the American Numismatic Association (ANA). Last, but probably most importantly, experience is the key in assigning a grade to a coin. Novice collectors, with some practice, can become quite accurate in determining grades for circulated coins (G-4 through AU-50). It becomes much more difficult when assigning grades for Uncirculated coins (MS-60 through MS-70) or Proof coins (PF-60 through PF-70) and the assistance of an experienced coin collector or trusted coin dealer should be sought. Another option that is available is to have the coin graded by a third-party grading service. For a fee, the grading service will grade the coin, place it in a protective case with it's identifying information and then sonically seal the case to preserve the coin. There are many services to choose from, some reputable and some not. Seek the assistance of a knowledgable collector or dealer in determing a service to use.
First an item can't be considered an antique unless its at least 100 years old or older, then it depends on what exactly is the item.
you can know by the date if it has one, the texture, smell, and the print of the object.
obtain a book on identfying antiques, what to look for, etc, etc
well, if its crystal clear glass, then its a very valuable antique. if its heavy, its probably not that great.
Well, antique gold can be real, it depends on what store you buy it at.
Is it a real antique or a reproduction? It can make a difference. Yes
The roadshow when its in town.
you should find your nearest antique store they should be able to tell you and somewhere on the buckle there should be a manufacturers date to be antique it would have to be at least 100 years old
Real antique trunks are harder to find these days after a surge in interest in them in the late 1970s into the 1980s. Authentic antique trunks are found in antique shops, generally. This site offers the real thing: www.eagletrunks.com/ You can also find reproductions as well. Check out www.woodchests.com
Markings
Old antique items.
Yes!
The authenticity of an antique is the reason the item has value. Antiques have the price that they do because they are old. If an item is simply a reproduction, its value will be less than that of the real antique.
Chipped wood or paint.
One can have an antique doll appraised at a local antique dealer. They will be able to check the dolls for markings, which will tell when the doll was made and who manufactured it. From there, one can start the process of having them appraised.