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How do you wire a 20A switch which comes with a neutral wire when only 2 wires are available for the circuit?
You never switch a neutral wire, only hots. hooking both hot and neutral to the same switch will result in a short when the swith is turned on.
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Always switch the hot conductor.
Why are switches and fuses always placed on the hot side of the circuit rather than on the neutral wire of the circuit?
Answer for USA, Canada and countries running a 60 Hz power supply service. Hots are dedicated to a specific circuit. Neutrals can be shared by other circuits. All the c…urrent in a circuit must travel through the hot. This is not always the case with the neutral. The purpose of a switch is to stop the potential voltage from being applied to the load. With the switch on the neutral side of the load this condition is not fulfilled. By shutting the load off with a neutral switch you could not work safely on the load as the potential to ground will still be there and create a shock hazard. As always, if you are in doubt about what to do, the best advice anyone should give you is to call a licensed electrician to advise what work is needed. Before you do any work yourself, on electrical circuits, equipment or appliances, always use a test meter to ensure the circuit is, in fact, de-energized. IF YOU ARE NOT ALREADY SURE YOU CAN DO THIS JOB SAFELY AND COMPETENTLY REFER THIS WORK TO QUALIFIED PROFESSIONALS.
#12 AWG Copper. (The previous answer, "12/2 with ground", was incorrect. That answer specifies Romex. Not all homes are wired in Romex, and if they were, it would be acce…ptable to use any number of conductors inside the cable, including 12/2, 12/3, 12/4, and even the "new" 12/2/2.) If you receive free breakers with a "panel kit", and they are 20A breakers, keep in mind you cannot use them where a 15A breaker was previously. The wires on the 15A breakers is likely 14 AWG which can overheat and cause fire if installed on a 20A breaker. The 'weakest link' is supposed to be the breaker, not the wire. -------------- If you do not understand the work well enough to accomplish it yourself properly and safely, don't try it. Consult a professional electrician, as they are proficient enough to do it properly and safely. When working on electrical circuits and equipment, make sure to de-energize the circuit you will be working on. Then test the circuit with a definitive means to make sure it is off (multimeter with metal tipped leads, voltage tester with metal tipped leads, etc., not a non-contact tester, which is non-definitive.)
Can you use 15A outlets on a 20A circuit with 12-2 wire and a 20A breaker and how many outlets would this allow?
I'm going to assume you are referring to residential construction because rules for commercial and industrial settings can be different. Also rules differ by geography (i.e. C…anada specifies a maximum of 8 outlets on a 15 amp circuit, USA code is silent on the issue but for practical purposes, more than about 10 will likely lead to poor performance. Some code also specifies max loading of a 20 amp circuit at 80% making 10 outlets the practical limit if using 20 amp outlets on that circuit. To expand on the previous answer a little, there is a large margin of safety in the construction of these components but if you think about it, you are placing a component that is rated at 15 amps into a 20 amp circuit. That outlet is potentially the weakest link in the circuit and could act like a fuse. If any of those 15 amp outlets are overloaded, it might overheat and fail before the circuit breaker. This is a recipe for a fire. You may think now that you'll remember to only plug in light loads, but these things have a habit of growing. You can plug typical small home appliances (lamp, stereo, TV, etc.) into a 20 amp outlet so the only benefit in using the 15 amp outlet is the minor cost savings at installation. If it were my building, I wouldn't risk it. If I can't talk you out of doing this and it's allowed by your applicable code, make sure you don't daisy-chain the circuit through the outlets. (In other words, don't run your 12-2 wire in one side of the outlet and out the other side.) Instead, use a pigtail (short piece of wire) to tap off your line to each individual outlet. In the United States you can run 20 amp breakers with 15 amp outlets but not in Canada. And for how many? About 10 to be on safe side as long as they are all low amp usage appliances. TVs, steros, fans, lamps. You can run 20 amp breaker with 12-2 wire as long as you make sure you use the 12-2 wire that is rated at 20 amp. Whilst this was not your exact question it is worth saying IT IS NEVER SAFE to run a 20 amp load through a 15 amp receptacle. It is only rated to handle up to 15 amps. As always, if you are in doubt about what to do, the best advice anyone should give you is to call a licensed electrician to advise what work is needed. Before you do any work yourself, on electrical circuits, equipment or appliances, always use a test meter to ensure the circuit is, in fact, de-energized. IF YOU ARE NOT ALREADY SURE YOU CAN DO THIS JOB SAFELY AND COMPETENTLY REFER THIS WORK TO QUALIFIED PROFESSIONALS.
You HAVE to use 12-2 with ground (the green or bare wire).
Ground and neutral are only supposed to be bonded at a single location at main panel. If you do this at an outlet and plug in a grounded device you could create what is known …as a ground loop and create a possible shock hazard.
The neutral wire is a return wire for the current in an electrical circuit. Do not confuse for the ground wire which is also a return wire but is used in the event the connect…ed appliance shorts to protect the user from electrical shock. The neutral is actually very similar to the ground, though. In a residence the neutral comes from the power plant, whereas the ground comes from a ground rod below the meter. In most older homes the ground and neutral were connected to the same bar in the breaker box. In newer homes they now have separate bars. Here is something interesting about the neutral wire. If you are testing a live circuit using a static checker, the neutral will not show a charge, only the hot wire will. However, if you had a circuit controlling some device (maybe a light fixture) and the light fixture was in the on position, but the neutral was cut you would notice the two wires slightly sparking when you touch them together. If you were to complete this circuit with your body you will get shocked or electrocuted. If the device were in the off position you would be safe, but don't take any chances when working with electricity. Turn off the power first.
In typical residential wiring it is the white wire. If you look in the electrical panel behind the panel you'll see all white wire are "bussed" together and the black "hot" wi…res are attached to breakers. The bare "Ground" wires are also all bussed together. The White and bare wires are typically bonded together in the main electric panel. If you have a volt meter and you wanted to check for neutral without taking off an outlet cover you could ground one lead and then touch the other lead to each side of a receptacle and if you get 120V that is the hot side and zero is the neutral. Danger - if you are removing electric panel covers and exposing the internals of the electric box there is a danger of getting electrocuted.
How do you wire a light fixture that has a white wire black wire and a ground wire if you only have a white wire and a black wire coming from the wall?
It is strange that a ground is not currently installed. For safety a ground is required. However, the good news is that a ceiling fixture provides little chance of a shock haz…ard except when servicing the fixture. However, the missing ground should be a warning that other things may be wrong with your wiring and you should consider having an Electrician check your overall wiring for issues. It is likely that someone has done some rewiring in your house and they may have screwed up other things. Depending on the age of the home there may not be a ground wire in the box. you can tell the old wires because the have a tarred paper jacket instead of a thermoplastic one. if this is the case just ignore the ground wire it is not required to make the fan function. and unless you are changing the electrical circuit you do not need to bring it up to current code.
They complete the ckt. Without wires/conductors of some sort, we couldn't connect all those other parts. They are connections between other parts of the circuit such as light …bulbs, buzzers, etc. The wires carry the electricity through them to the light bulbs, buzzers, switches, etc on the circuit.
The power company uses a single transformer outside your home to reduce the voltage from the transmission line voltage down to the 240/120 volts that you can use when you plug… in your appliances. The power company is trying to be responsible with their money when they put that transformer out there, so they use a transformer that can provide both 240 Volts and 120 Volts, at the same time. To do that, the output of the transformer is divided into two halves; one half provides 120 Volts, and the other half provides 120 Volts, with a "common" or "center tap" in the center of the 240 Volt transformer winding. It isn't a coincidence that your 240 volt plug that operates the electric range or electric dryer is twice the voltage of the 120 volt plug that operates your TV. By using half of the output from the transformer to provide your 120 Volt service, you are technically using the center tap/Common wire as one of the current carriers for the circuit. In theory, the common wire should be identical to the ground wire, but because real life isn't quite the same as the theoretic, it is necessary to treat them differently. In some VERY OLD neighborhoods there were no 240 volt transformers, and as such, no neutral/common wire.
No matter if you use 14/2 or 12/2 wire they are wired the same. Click the link to see how it is done.
It depends on the circuit used, but usually, yes.
There is a way to wire a light fixture controlled with two 3-way switches using only 14-2 cable. Run a length of 14-2 cable from each 3-way switch to the light fixture and a t…hird one between the switches to act as travelers. This is not an optimum method for wiring this arrangement, but it is possible in a pinch, if no 14-3 cable is available. This method leaves an unused conductor in each of the cables linking the light fixture to a switch, each of which must be tied to ground at both ends to indicate they are not carrying current. The conductors that are used must conform to the color convention for hot and neutral conductors, and any white conductors that are hot must be wrapped in red or black tape. It's important to remember that the travelers and switches must always be situated between the hot electrode of the power source and the load (light fixture), to prevent any of the wires in the light fixture from being live when the switches are off (no current flowing in the circuit). Also, if metal boxes are used, the two cables must run through the same hole in any box they enter to avoid problems with eddy currents. A variation of 3-way switch wiring employing 14-2 cable is one in which two widely separated light fixtures are controlled, such as at the top and bottom of a staircase. In this variation, the light fixtures must be connected in parallel, necessitating that an additional conductor be run between the fixtures. As a result, some parts of the circuit will contain four conductors, which can be provided using two lengths of 14-2 cable, while other parts will need only three conductors, depending on the relative locations of the light fixtures and switches