How many spark plugs are there on a Kawasaki Ninja 650?
There are two, you will need to remove the tank to reach them on top of the cylinder head cover.
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Remove seat cover, look for bolts connecting gas tank to frame, disassemble. Remove gas tank hoses should be long enough to move aside, middle of bike, then should be able to access air filter compartment. -Enjoy-
\n. \nI am not a expert on the subject, but I know that there's one ignition coil for the outer (#1, #4) spark plugs, and another for the inner (#2, #3) spark plugs. If you bought new ones and tested them without them firing I would suspect the ignition coil that fires the inner spark plugs is bad.…\n..Try changing the plug wires i had the same problem and the plug wires went bad after using the horn (it shorted out) , i found that out after removing everything on the bike and testing it and yes i was mad but relieved it was just the plug wires , good luck (MORE)
first, take off the mirrors and upper fairing support (10mm), remove the front and rear seats, remove the four bolts holding down the fuel tank, (2X10mm) (2X8mm),remove the fuel tank, remove the airbox and filter, you will see the cylinder head exposed, you will see the 4 wires and plug caps going d…own into the cylinder head, these are where the 4 plugs are located, hope this helps (MORE)
there is a smaller round socket kind of like the ones tire shops use to reach inside custom rims its the right bolt size or socket size but skinny enough to fit in the hole! example is when you see the lugs on certain rims.a standard star wrench would'nt fit but it takes a special skinny socket made… to fit in smaller holes! go visit a tire shop they can show you what im talking about... (MORE)
Hi My 500r has a knurled knob that can be accessed from the left side at the rear of the carbs. Clockwise increases idle rpm. Ride Safe Roger M.
Kawasaki stopped making the ZX9 in 2003. If it is any other year you have to take the gas tank off & the air box to access the plugs.
I had to lift the gas tank up about 4 inches then support it, or have someone help you hold it out of the way. Use only the sparkplug socket from the bikes tool kit, because any other sparkplug socket the walls are too thick to get down to the hex part of the plug. Good luck! Does anybody know the e…ngine oil capacity? I put in 3 quarts and it still looks low. Phil in Greenville (MORE)
I'm guessing the same as most other bikes... under the gas tank.. take a look at this video. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ct31s5JNhyM. The spark plugs are located under the gas tank and under the air box. You need to remove the top and bottom of the air box and you will see the plug wires. Be s…ure to reconnect the ram air lines properly or your bike won't run properly above 50 MPH. (MORE)
The spark plug gap size for a 1986 Suzuki Savage 650 should be setat .4 mm. A new spark plug may be purchased at any auto partsretailer.
if its anything like my 2000 savage, you need to remove the tank to get at the bolts that hold the chrome cover in place. Once you remove the chrome head cover, you should have pretty easy access to the spark plug.
As with all engineÃdesigns, the spark plugs are usually locatedabove the engine block on what is called the cylinder head or cam.For motorbike configurations, the engine is usually under the gastank. That would be the first place to look for the spark plug ofthe Mule.
The spark plug gap for a 1998 Kawasaki KX 125 motorcycle is between.6 and .7 mm. This is equal to between .024 and .028 inches.
In your tool kit you should have a rench that will fit on the plug. You pull off the spark plug wire and take out the spark plug. Make sure the gap is set right for the new plug and put in in. Do not over tighten.
There are two spark plugs on a harley motor. Typically on the left hand side, 1 per cylinder.
I don't think that you need to gap the plug if you get a plug that is specific to your bike. Mine has a NGK R6252K-105 in it. I think that is the same type of plug that they come from the factory with. If you're not getting spark then you probably have a fouled plug or something else wrong.
Changing a spark plug on a Yamaha V Star 650 is simple. All youhave to do is take a wrench and unscrew the spark plug and thenreplace it with a new one.
The spark plug gap for a 1995 Kawasaki Ninja 500 should be setbetween .6 mm and .7 mm. This is equal to being set between .024and .028 inches.
Take off the fenders, then remove the gas tank. You will see the spark plug wires right there on top of the engine, remove those and voila!
At the same time? Give it a try and let us know ;-). more than none and less than 3
The spark plug gap for a 1996 Kawasaki KZ1000 P15 should be set at.032 inches. This is equal to .8 mm.
remove the air scoops, the rear side panels, the seat and the gas tank------- tools needed will be 10 and 8 mm sockets, #3 Phillips screw driver and a 18 mm socket for the plug.
Here are some plugs that will work with your KX100... Stock - R6252K-105 BR8EIX/BR9EIX/BR10EIX BR9ES/BR8ES BR9EG BR9EYA Hope this helps. Kevin
the gap is .035 thou for a 1999 650 vstar. the gap is .035 thou for a 1999 650 vstar
I am trying to remove my ignition switch on a 2006 Kawasaki Ninja 650r. On the bottom it has two studs that look like the end of the screw. Are these pressed in.
Just a wild guess, but I would start at the top of the heads.......should see a spark plug wire connected to a plug........viola! spark plug.
I have had my v-star for 3 years it is a 650 as well it has 2 spark plugs each one is on the top of the jug simply pull the plug wire off and remove with a spark plug wrench. They are at an odd angle but they can be taken out and replaced take special care not to get the plugs cross threaded should …go in by hand at first do not over tighten (MORE)
I took the seats off. Loosened the boly at the back of the gas tank.. Lifted the tank up and used a 5/8 socket with rachet extention.. not sure if that is right, but it worked.
The 2006, Kawasaki Brute Force 650 spark plug gap is .014. Mostspark plugs come pre-gapped from the spark plug manufacturer.
The battery is 12 volts but the alternator generates about 13-14v to charge the battery.
Righty tighty, lefty loosy! Of course you have to get to them first under the gas tank. Should be able to without completely removing the seat. Prop the tank up with a couple of boards under the tank on top of the frame. Should change the air filter (inside the black box right there) when you are do…ing the plugs. Remove the fairings for best access. (MORE)
Guide to changing the spark plugs for novices (like me) . I just replaced the sparks on my 2001 12R - I'd previously read alot about some people finding it easy and others finding it impossible. I didn't think it was easy, but then again I'm only capable of relatively easy stuff on my 12R (ie oil c…hange, filter clean, pilot jet mot, brake service etc etc). I thought I'd put together this little guide for novices like me that want to attempt it. In all, it took me about 30 minutes per spark. I didn't mess about - I removed the fairing, ram air covers, tank cover, seats and coolant expansion tank. It can be done without removing some of these, but it will be alot easier if you just get them out of your way. The expansion tank can just be unscrewed and left to dangle on the pipes. Don't bother removing it completely. First of all, you will need the special angled tool from the 12R's tool kit. The idea behind this tool is that the bigger end goes down the spark plug tube and locks onto the spark plug, whilst the smaller end is for a spanner or socket set to lock onto. It has to bend in the middle to enable you to get it into the spark tube as the clearance above is not enough to get it in otherwise. Look into the bigger end of the tool and you will see a rubber washer that grips onto the spark plug once it has been unscrewed (else you'd never actually get it out of the tube). Second, obviously get hold of the spark plugs first before attempting the job - I've read conflicting reports about which spark plugs are the correct ones. I still don't know what's right and what's wrong, but I am going to tell you what I found out. First of all, I got hold of the NGK CR9EK sparks as referred to in the manual but was surprised when they looked a little different from the sparks that were already in the bike - the difference was at the top of the spark plug where it latches onto the stick coil and consequently, the stick coil wouldn't fit on properly. Someone else suggested that the CR9EIX were the way to go and I was relieved to find that these had the same upper connection as my existing sparks. You can see the difference between the two at the following internet locations NGK.com - Application Search Results andCR9EKB - NGK PLUGS "C" by chi town choppers , inc . The CR9EIX sparks work like a charm in my bike, but I suspect they have a smaller lifespan because they are not multiground sparks like the ones that came out (I guess that this lenghtens the life of the gap, but I'm not really sure). In summary, I can tell you that the CR9EIX work great in my bike and fit inside the Denso stick coils very securely - but I can't tell you how long they will continue to work for so you might want to check it out a bit more yourself. As some people have said, removing the plastic and rubber covers will make your life easier to get the job done, but I'd recommend you leave them there because they are effectively stopping dirt, moisture and other sh*t getting down the side of the stick coil where it will end up in the top of your engine the minute you take the spark plug out. I noticed moisture on the side of one of my stick coils and (more concerningly) some oil on another (that's a differnent story). OK, so on with the procedure. Looking in at the top of the engine you will see the top of the stick coils coming out of the top. These stick coils have 'Denso" written on the top of them. Before doing anything else, you'll have to pull the 2-wire connector off of the side. It has a little plastic locking tooth on it so you have to press down on the tooth whilst pushing the connector towards the back of the bike. Mine were relatively easy to get off, but I found a small flat blade screw driver made things easier - it was possible to use the screwdriver to press down on the release catch at the same time as pushing it backwards and off. After this you need to get the coil sticks out - the is the single hardest thing to do in this job (at least it was with my bike). Some people have reported that their coil sticks came off easy, well I can tell you that mine were stuck on like a bitch. I'm a little suspicious that some of the folks that can get their stick coils off easy are using the sparks with the different interface type (as described above) which means that the denso stick coils just sit on top of it, rather than gripping on to it. I imagine this will work fine as these high voltages don't need a perfect electrical connection to work - but, I just prefer a solid mechanical connection as the basis of a good, reliable electrical connection. The key to getting the stick coils off is to use a large flat blade screw driver and put it under the connector seat (towards the back of the bike) that sticks out of the side of the coil and then twist the flat-blade to pop the coil off. When you pop off the first coil you instantly realise from the force required that there was no way you were ever going to do it by hand like other people have said they do (like I say, this might be down to the different types of spark plug top). One thing that I noticed is that the plastic cover for the rubber mat has a neat-feature - a little channel under it that allows you to get a flat-blade screwdriver to the middle sparks by putting the screw driver under the piece of the plastic cover that sits in-between the middle and outer sparks (on both sides). After that, you can wrestle out the stick coil. If you do the ones at the outside first you will see how long the stick coil actually is (about 12 cm by memory). The last 4 to 5 CM is rubber and can bend, which is a godsend when you do the ones in the middle (if it was 12cm of plastic, it simply wouldn't be able to come out). OK, the most difficult bit is done. Using the angled tool, you put it into the spark tube and push it as far down as you can by hand. Start turning it anti-clockwise by hand until it locks in position - thus the tool is located. You can then use a wrench or socket set to loosen the first part of the spark off (it shouldn't take much force if the person who installed the sparks used the correct torque). You should then be able to unscrew the rest of it by hand (depending on the size of your hands!). After many, many turns you'll eventually notice it suddenly becomes easier because the spark has come out of the threads. You then pull the tool out and hey presto, there's the spark being held by the tool's rubber washer. Replacement is just the reverse, but it's a good idea to add a little grease to the spark threads before putting them in and spray the stick coil outers with a silicone grease or WD40 before putting them back in the spark tube. The two outer sparks are obviously easier than the inner ones - but you have to wrestle with everything throughout the entire job because it is just so tight. This is why it takes so long. I'm no idiot, but I also am not capable of doing complex stuff on a bike. For my level of expertise, this was a reasonably difficult job the first time around. Like everything though, having done it once I think I would find it quite easy the next time I do it. Hope this helps someone,. (MORE)
Watercraft . 1999-1998 KAWASAKI (Jet-Ski) JT1100-B STX 1100 Spark PlugPart No.Stock No.Plug GapPhotoIridiumBR9EIX *3089.032. NGK
on a 2.8 and the 4.3 v6 the plugs are down by the exhaust manifold with wires going to them and there are 6 of them
Remove seat. Remove 2 bolts holding gas tank. Lift gas tank and move to right far enough to remove bolts on left side cover to access spark plug.
The "V" in "V-Star" specifically means V-twin. (All these bikes are V-Twins.) This is the cylinder configuration of the engine (The cylinders form a V shape). Most models of bike whos names begin with V have engines of this type. Some have four cylinders (V-Four), others have two (V-Twin). VFR and V…TR for example.. Since only one spark plug is necessary per cylinder, a V-Twin (having two cylinders) only has two spark plugs. A V-Four, on the other hand, has four.. Similarly, V-6 and V-8 engines have 6 and 8 cylinders / spark plugs respectively. Any engine will have the same number of spark plugs as it has cylinders. (MORE)
The Spark plugs on the Ex250 are under the fuel tank, to change them, you'll need to remove it.
Bad sparkplug or Wire. Or worse, bad coil pack or bad CDI or ignition or kill switch.
NGK recommend NGK CR9E with a gap of 0.7mm (alternatively use NGK CR9EIX - iridium electrode for better spark)
I'm using NGK Iridium plugs, CR7EIX with the gap set to 0.7mm, as per the UK NGK website.
i need spark plug gap for my 09 TYREX IF COULD HELP ME OUT PLEASE
8 of them. 1 per cylinder and V8 means it has 8 cylinders. Except for the Dodge Hemi which has 16, 2 per cylinder.
The proper gap setting would be .07-.08mm (0.026-0.031in) with a ngk br8eix or br8eg spark plug. The br8eg is much cheaper than the eix and I can't notice the difference in performance only in price. $18 compared to $4. I hope this helps out anyone who wants to know. Source for Gap setting: Kawasaki… owners manual kx250 '03 (MORE)
it depends on the number of cylinders.. if 2 cylinders it has 2 spark plugs if 4 then it has 4.
I believe its on the right side of the bike. Just below the belt cover.
-You can do it two ways. (1) Remove the battery and the bracket the battery sits in its only two screws. (2) Remove the plastic on the right side it will be totel around 8-10 screws I think. -After steps (1) are (2) you should see two plugs wires leading you to the plugs. -Be sure you take a air com…pressor and blow the top of your engine and around the plugs before removing them for any loose dirt that may fall in there. -I put a little heat proof grease on my treads before putting the new ones back in. Makes for a easy thread start and easier to remove them when its time to replace them again. Hope this help...Thanks Patrick (MORE)
Remove the spark plug wire on the right side of the motorcycle. It's at the top of the motor, at the front of the fuel tank. You will need a special spark plug socket to remove the spark plug. Wherever you get the new spark plug's, they can get you the correct wrench. Put a 3 inch extension on the s…ocket, It should go all the way down to the spark plug, and have just enough room to get you're drive ratchet on it to remove the spark plug. When you have screwed the spark plug all the way loose, You will need to remove the ratchet to pull the extension out with the socket, and the spark plug in the end of the socket. There should just be enough room to remove it. I had to remove a breather hose at the bottom of the fuel tank to fully remove it. Put the new plug in, Make sure it is secured in the socked, Mine dropped, and when I retrieved It, It had messed up the gap setting. The other one is on the other side at the rear of the fuel tank. You will need to remove the two bolt's at the bottom of the tank, and pull up on the tank, and prop it up with a WD-40 can so you can get the proper clearance to remove the second one. I found it easier to remove than the other one. There was no hose to remove. (MORE)
Electrode gap: 0.7 - 0.8 mm Spark plug: NGK CR9E For '94 - '04 Kawasaki ZX-7r Source: Haynes Service Manual hope this helps!
gas tank cover comes off. remove battery. use compressed air to blow out debris before taking plugs out. I use a spark plug socket from my tool set with an extension and u-joint. not a difficult job.
Their newest car the Veyron 16.4 has a w16 engine. 16 cylinders, 16 spark plugs
Anyplace that sells spark plugs will have an application chart which will tell you what plugs will work in your Kawasaki.