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Between $285 to $1,000 plus tax, depending on what your toilet costs plus parts. Home Depot has toilets that start at $135 and go up to $492 plus tax. Custom toilets may cost more. Labor is about 1 - 2 hours depending on whether or not it is an easy installation. The plumber/handyman may run into glitches which will cost more.
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Changing toilet. You shut off the valve on the inlet pipe then flush the toilet. Now sponge the remaining water out of tank and bowl. Get an old towel to put under back of to…ilet and remove inlet pipe from both ends. Now unscrew the 2 (or sometimes 4) holding bolts on the base and the lift toilet off the floor. I always have an old cardboard box or similar to sit it on, as the wax seal will make a floor sticky. Remove the toilet from the room to make space for the new one. Fit a new wax seal to the flange on the floor and fit new mounting bolts if necessary. Now re-fit the new toilet onto the bolts and wax seal. Gently rock it to settle the seal down, then fit nuts on and tighten it down. I always fit a new SS braided supply tube rather than the grey plastic junk, this needs no sealant or tape, just tighten the bolts . This is NOT a difficult job, you don't need ANY special knowledge, just common sense. .
residential code requires 30" clear width and 60" depth.
Assuming you have the plumbing in place, floor flange and supply line. You will need a wax ring to seal it to the floor flange. Install the two bolts on either side of the fla…nge. I usually put the wax ring on the flange and set the toilet bowl on it, but you can put it on the toilet also. Less chance of messing it up by putting it on the flange. With the wax ring in place set the toilet bowl straight down on the flange. Set the bowl first and attach the tank after you have it down and secure. Standing over the bowl you should be able to guide it onto the bolts which center it on the drain. Put your weight on the bowl over the drain to squash the wax ring and make the seal. Put the base of the bolt cover on and the nuts to hold the toilet down. Do not over tighten the nuts and go back and forth tightening each nut a little at a time. As soon as they get tight, stop or you might break the base. Put the foam gasket on the tank center hole and set it on the base. Install the two bolts that hold it down with a rubber washer under the head to seal the bolt. Again, tighted each a bit until tight. Install the supply line and seat and you are done.
Toilets are available in a wide variety of styles. Installation procedures are generally consistent. A new toilet Installation may be part of a complete bathroom renovatio…n or a necessary repair project. That depends on your choice for your new toilet. An average low cost- $286.65 An average high cost- $363.98 The average plumber charges between $45-$65/hour and the installation should take about an hour.
Depends on whether you already purchased it and whether other parts are needed. If you have the toilet, a Kant leak, a wax seal,FLEXIBLE toilet supply, and the (nuts,bol…ts and washers) for screwing the toilet to the floor flange, plumber should not charge more than one hour of his rate to install it. Make sure the plumber does NOT silicone around the toilet. If there is a leak from the wax seal under the toilet and it is siliconed, the water stays under the toilet and rots the floor, if you are on a wood floor.
Nothing. Do it Yourself. It is easier than you would think. Nothing. Do it Yourself. It is easier than you would think.
Inside pipe cutter
well in the usa it would cost around 200 to 300 dolars.
A lot of money.
I assume you have a floor flange in place or are replacing an existing toilet. The floor flange is what the toilet bolts to that holds it down to the floor. Some older houses …use lag screws to hold the toilet down to the wood floor and in basements, lag screws and anchors are sometimes used directly to the concrete. If you have a floor flange, it should be at the level of the floor or up to 3/8's of an inch above it. This will allow you to use a standard wax ring to seal the toilet to the drain pipe. If the flange is below the level of the floor, use an extra thick wax ring or double up two regular ones. You want the wax ring with the black funnel shape piece of plastic imbedded in it. There is a slot on each side of the flange that will accept a bolt. Either 1/4 or 5/16 thick. Put the bolts in the slots on either side inline with the center of the drain. I usually put the wax ring on the floor and sit the toilet base over it. Lining the holes in the base with the bolts. Sit the base on the drain, straight down. With it in place, you should have to compress the wax ring some so that the toilet will sit on the floor. Grab the toilet on each side at the back where the seat attaches and lean on it with your weight. This will compress the wax ring and make the seal between the toilet and the drain. Push straight down without twisting the toilet. Install the washers and nuts on the bolts and tighten them carefully a little on each side until they are tight. Do not over tighten them because you can break the base. There should be a cap to cover the bolt with the toilet. Put the flat white washer on the bolt first, the metal washer and then the nut. The white washer has to go on the right way up so that the cup will snap over it. The edge is beveled and the slope on it should be downward like an upside down V. Now install the tank. There is a large black foam cone that goes over the center hole in the tank and seals it to the base. Set the tank in place and install the two bolts that hold it to the base. Use a rubber washer under the head of the bolt to seal the bolt to the tank. Bolts go in from the top. As with the floor bolts, tighten them a little on each side until the tank is tight. On most toilet bases, there is a small ridge in front of the hole in the back that the tank will rest on when it is tightened down enough. With the tank in place, install the supply line and the seat and you should be in business.
Shut the water off at the main shut off where it comes into the house or at the meter and change the valve at the fixture. The valve at the fixture may be sweated on, compress…ion, or threaded.
'bout 50$ or more
Compared to a 30 year old toilet? An amazing amount (I just installed two such toilets, replacing 30-year-old models). These are dual flush, and in the low flush mode - perfec…tly adequate for 70% of flushes - they use 1.3 gallons. The old toilets used almost 4 gallons per flush. A saving of 2.7 gallons per flush, times (how many??) flushes per day, times 365: You are easily talking thousands of gallons a year.
Yes that's what the flange sit on and get bolted onto that is why if you remove the toilet/flange you will see a hole in your floor
Most of them are held in place by two pegs on either side of the overflow tube. If there are no pegs, get a flapper with the ring at the hinge point and it slides down over th…e tube. The old one may be fairly stiff when trying to get it off of the pegs. Twist the tab sidewise and it should come off.
I have purchased a new toilet and it is on site ready to be installed. What would the plumbing cost be to remove the old toilet and install the new one?
It is less than an hour of labour, so depends on what labour rate you pay. I regularly do them in about 35-40 minutes and charge one hour of labour.
To install a new toilet seat, first you must remove the old one. One of the tools needed to do this is typically a flat screwdriver. Pop open the plastic coverings and unscrew… the plastic bolts. The seat should then come free. Use bathroom cleaner around the entire toilet area before placing the new seat. Then, just place the bolts into the holes and thread them tightly. Also, snap the bolt covers into place.