What would you like to do?
Answer . \nThis is way too complicated for the average homeowner to do. I srongly suggest calling a plumber.
Answer Yes, but it is very complicated and should only be done by a plumber.
Answer there are several flexy toilet conectors available to buy so a toilet can be fitted in any position provided there is room for it
Changing toilet. You shut off the valve on the inlet pipe then flush the toilet. Now sponge the remaining water out of tank and bowl. Get an old towel to put under back of to…ilet and remove inlet pipe from both ends. Now unscrew the 2 (or sometimes 4) holding bolts on the base and the lift toilet off the floor. I always have an old cardboard box or similar to sit it on, as the wax seal will make a floor sticky. Remove the toilet from the room to make space for the new one. Fit a new wax seal to the flange on the floor and fit new mounting bolts if necessary. Now re-fit the new toilet onto the bolts and wax seal. Gently rock it to settle the seal down, then fit nuts on and tighten it down. I always fit a new SS braided supply tube rather than the grey plastic junk, this needs no sealant or tape, just tighten the bolts . This is NOT a difficult job, you don't need ANY special knowledge, just common sense. .
The same way you install one NOT in a corner. As long as the rough-in is correct, it should install just like any other.
residential code requires 30" clear width and 60" depth.
Assuming you have the plumbing in place, floor flange and supply line. You will need a wax ring to seal it to the floor flange. Install the two bolts on either side of the fla…nge. I usually put the wax ring on the flange and set the toilet bowl on it, but you can put it on the toilet also. Less chance of messing it up by putting it on the flange. With the wax ring in place set the toilet bowl straight down on the flange. Set the bowl first and attach the tank after you have it down and secure. Standing over the bowl you should be able to guide it onto the bolts which center it on the drain. Put your weight on the bowl over the drain to squash the wax ring and make the seal. Put the base of the bolt cover on and the nuts to hold the toilet down. Do not over tighten the nuts and go back and forth tightening each nut a little at a time. As soon as they get tight, stop or you might break the base. Put the foam gasket on the tank center hole and set it on the base. Install the two bolts that hold it down with a rubber washer under the head to seal the bolt. Again, tighted each a bit until tight. Install the supply line and seat and you are done.
The average TIME to replace a toilet is about one hour. The average price is a whole different matter as many plumbers will use this as an exercise to 'pad the bill '. - If an…yone charges you more than 2 hours to do this, chances are you are being ripped off.
Depends on whether you already purchased it and whether other parts are needed. If you have the toilet, a Kant leak, a wax seal,FLEXIBLE toilet supply, and the (nuts,bol…ts and washers) for screwing the toilet to the floor flange, plumber should not charge more than one hour of his rate to install it. Make sure the plumber does NOT silicone around the toilet. If there is a leak from the wax seal under the toilet and it is siliconed, the water stays under the toilet and rots the floor, if you are on a wood floor.
Between $285 to $1,000 plus tax, depending on what your toilet costs plus parts. Home Depot has toilets that start at $135 and go up to $492 plus tax. Custom toilets ma…y cost more. Labor is about 1 - 2 hours depending on whether or not it is an easy installation. The plumber/handyman may run into glitches which will cost more.
Nothing. Do it Yourself. It is easier than you would think. Nothing. Do it Yourself. It is easier than you would think.
A lot of money.
I assume you have a floor flange in place or are replacing an existing toilet. The floor flange is what the toilet bolts to that holds it down to the floor. Some older houses …use lag screws to hold the toilet down to the wood floor and in basements, lag screws and anchors are sometimes used directly to the concrete. If you have a floor flange, it should be at the level of the floor or up to 3/8's of an inch above it. This will allow you to use a standard wax ring to seal the toilet to the drain pipe. If the flange is below the level of the floor, use an extra thick wax ring or double up two regular ones. You want the wax ring with the black funnel shape piece of plastic imbedded in it. There is a slot on each side of the flange that will accept a bolt. Either 1/4 or 5/16 thick. Put the bolts in the slots on either side inline with the center of the drain. I usually put the wax ring on the floor and sit the toilet base over it. Lining the holes in the base with the bolts. Sit the base on the drain, straight down. With it in place, you should have to compress the wax ring some so that the toilet will sit on the floor. Grab the toilet on each side at the back where the seat attaches and lean on it with your weight. This will compress the wax ring and make the seal between the toilet and the drain. Push straight down without twisting the toilet. Install the washers and nuts on the bolts and tighten them carefully a little on each side until they are tight. Do not over tighten them because you can break the base. There should be a cap to cover the bolt with the toilet. Put the flat white washer on the bolt first, the metal washer and then the nut. The white washer has to go on the right way up so that the cup will snap over it. The edge is beveled and the slope on it should be downward like an upside down V. Now install the tank. There is a large black foam cone that goes over the center hole in the tank and seals it to the base. Set the tank in place and install the two bolts that hold it to the base. Use a rubber washer under the head of the bolt to seal the bolt to the tank. Bolts go in from the top. As with the floor bolts, tighten them a little on each side until the tank is tight. On most toilet bases, there is a small ridge in front of the hole in the back that the tank will rest on when it is tightened down enough. With the tank in place, install the supply line and the seat and you should be in business.
There are special toilets designed just for this reason. They have holding tanks built into them with pumps to pump the waste up to the level of the sewer lines.
Yes.` The wax ring may not have been thick enough or making complete contact and the toilet not held down tight enough. Every time the toilet rocks just a bit and water gets b…etween the wax and the toilet. It doesn't reseal and keeps doing this until it has a leak to the outside edge of the seal. Just another wax ring, a thicker one and bolt the toilet back down tight, but not too tight and break the toilet.
Shut the water off, disconnect the supply line to the toilet, flush the toilet and hold the handle down so that most of the water gets out of the tank. You can try and get as …much water out of the bowl as possible, or leave it in if you have something to sit the toilet in when you lift it off of the drain. As long as you keep it level, no water will come out, but it is practically impossible to lift it up and out of the way without loosing some water. Most toilets are held down with two bolts or screws, one on each side of the base towards the back. Some older toilets also have screws at the front sides . Remove the nuts or screws. If the bathroom has a tub, put a towel in the tub and quickly lift the toilet up and into the tub. If you tilt the toilet forward and then back, most of the water in the bowl will run out. The old wax ring will probably stay on the floor. It probably has a black plastic funnel shape ring in the drain. Remove the ring and the old wax, as much as possible. It does not have to be perfectly clean of wax. Remove any old wax on the bottom of the toilet also. You can either put the wax ring on the base of the toilet or on the floor drain. I usually put it on the floor so that I don't have to worry about messing it up if I have to set the toilet down before it is over the drain. With the wax ring in place, line the toilet up with the drain and the two bolts that hold it down and lower it into place. The wax ring should be thick enough that you have to push down on the toilet where the seat attaches to squash the ring and make a good seal. I place the toilet by myself by holding it on each side of the bowl right in front of the tank. It is easier than two people trying to get in a small space. You can also position the toilet without the ring in place and them tip it forward enough to slip the ring in place and then just letting the toilet back down. It's easy to do and much cheaper than calling a plumber. Just make sure the floor flange is at least level with the floor or slightly above it. If it is not, use a extra thick wax ring or stack two regular ones on top of each other. Any excess wax will squash out. Better too much than not enough.