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If you have well water how do you get the free chlorine level down and get the rust color out of your swimming pool?
Add cyanuric acid to the correct level of 50ppm. Check with a pool store locally for a rust removing chemical.
To get rid of the iron use a chemical called "susupend" it works great!
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The chlorine level will drop naturally over a few days, the sun will use it up and the levels will drop. If the weather is cloudy it's slower to come down. There's no easy way… if your pool is over chlorinated, just be patient. The only other way to bring the level down is to 'waste' some water, but unless you have an urgent need to use the pool and the levels are too high for swimming this is not recommended. If you don't have time to wait, and don't want to "waste" water you can add sodium thiosulfate. I use Thio-Trine follow instructions and wait one-two hours then retest your water.
It could very well be damaging to your health. To add a reason because that alone is not ever so helpful... :-) Damaging because too little chlorine could well allow harmful b…acteria to multiply. It's not the low Cl level itself that's the problem, but the loss of disinfecting action.
Hi this is Bill Soukup with Commercial Pools. It depends on what you consider high chlorine levels to be. Most pools, commercial and residential should run a minimum of 2 PPM …to control giardia and E coli. Most commercial pools should run chlorine levels 3 to 5 PPM on a regular basis. Residential pools can run just under these levels. At about 5 PPM you might start ruining some of your equipment, especially your copper heat exchanger. At about 10 PPM you will ruin swim suits. Cheap swim suits might get ruined well under 10 PPM. It wouldn't make sense to swim in a pool with the chlorine level over 10 PPM. With this said, you would have to be well over that for any physical dangers. Does it cost more to run higher chlorine levels? I don't think so. Actually our customers who run low levels spend more because they have to purchase extra chemicals such as clarifiers, algaecides, etc. Our company believes that you use about the same amount of chlorine per month at 2 PPM as you would with 5 PPM. We don't see any change in our customer's monthly orders.
First thing you need to understand is that a salt water pool is in fact a chlorine pool. The salt in the water (NaCl or sodium chloride) is essentially ripped apart by the ele…ctrical current in the pass thru on the pump assembly. A salt water system can sense how much chlorine is needed and strip apart sodium from the chloride (making chlorine) in smaller or larger amounts as necessary. The total salinity of a salt water pool is only about one tenth the salinity of the ocean and since you probably don't have plankton or other organic matter living in your pool, it won't feel sticky or tacky the way the ocean does when you get out. Most people actually report that the water feels silky smooth and is similar to how your skin feels if you've ever lived in a home with a water softener. To get back to your question - the only reason I can see why someone would want to spend the money and put chlorine in their pool manually would be if the salt water system mounted on your pump broke or somehow wore out and it was going to cost too much to replace it. As a temporary measure, yes, you could simply add chlorine to the pool for the duration of the season or whatever, but draining the pool and refilling would be a waste. Remember, all a salt water system really does is provide free chlorine all year long. If you'd rather shut it down and pay for the chlorine and monitor it yourself, that is always your prerogative.
Chlorine is a disinfectant that kills microorganisms in pool water st oping swimmers from getting sick
Obviously, chlorine is raised by adding it, but, if you are not testing for total chlorine, you dont know if you have a problem. Chlorine gets "locked up" with organic compoun…ds like bather waste, suntan lotion and anything that grows and dies like algae or leaves. This is called "combined chlorine". You can have quite a bit of chlorine in the water, but it's all locked up with organics and unusable as sanitizer. So the question is, are you getting enough chlorine into the water at a sufficient rate to keep up with the loss from usage and sunlite, and is that chlorine free to use as sanitizer "free chlorine" or is it bound together with organics and useless? This is where the test for total chlorine comes into play. It tells you how much chlorine period, is in the water. A good test kit will tell you both. If you use strips, get the "Aquachek Select" type instead of the "yellow" bottle to show both types of chlorine. If there is a sizeable difference between free and total chlorine, it indicates the presence of organics and they need to be removed. You remove organics by "shocking" or "oxidizing" the real term. This frees up the chlorine again. Pool & Spa "Locking" can also occur over time with an excessive accumulation of stabiliser, ironical though that may seem, if you are using stabilised compounds.
Hi this is Bill Soukup with Commercial Pools. It depends on what you consider high chlorine levels to be. Most pools, commercial and residential should run a minimum of 2 PPM …to control giardia and E coli. Most commercial pools should run chlorine levels 3 to 5 PPM on a regular basis. Residential pools can run just under these levels. At about 5 PPM you might start ruining some of your equipment, especially your copper heat exchanger. At about 10 PPM you will ruin swim suits. Cheap swim suits might get ruined well under 10 PPM. It wouldn't make sense to swim in a pool with the chlorine level over 10 PPM. With this said, you would have to be well over that for any physical dangers. Does it cost more to run higher chlorine levels? I don't think so. Actually our customers who run low levels spend more because they have to purchase extra chemicals such as clarifiers, algaecides, etc. Our company believes that you use about the same amount of chlorine per month at 2 PPM as you would with 5 PPM. We don't see any change in our customer's monthly orders. Read more: http://wiki.answers.com/Can_you_swim_in_a_pool_with_high_chlorine_levels#ixzz1DJyPz8Tp
There is 3 measurements of chlorine in a pool or spa. Total chlorine, combined chlorine, and free available chlorine. Free available chlorine is the good chlorine that is acti…ve in the pool killings germs and algae. Combined chlorine is chlorine is basically chlorine that was once active but has killed germs or bacteria and is now inactive in the pool. Total chlorine is free available and combined chlorine added together. If your combined chlorine is higher than free available chlorine then the water needs to be shocked to eliminate the combined chlorine. But be careful here. If you don't reach what's called break point you will only add to the combined chlorine. There are products on the market which will only remove combined chlorine without effecting your free available chlorine if you are unsure about reaching breakpoint. Hope this helps.
Answer Time, and the brightness of the sun will bring your chlorine level down.
You need a test kit to determine free chlorine levels. To reach those levels you test the water and add chlorine until you achieve the required amount ( 1.5 to 5.0 ppm) …of chlor. The first reading on the kit is available chlor. The second part of the test would determine the free chlor level. The free chlorine is what is doing the sanitizing or killing of bacteria. The first reading only tells you that you have some chlor in the water. It is probably not safe to use the pool if you do not have a sufficient amount of free chlor. k
Time. It all depends on how much chlorine was in it. If you shock a pool (high amounts of chlorine), it is ready to swim in by two days later.
Our state health department allows chlorine levels of 1.0-7 ppm. Most operators keep pools at 2-3 ppm.
Pool water contains a variety of chemicals, including chlorine. While there is chlorine in the water that we drink, the levels do not compare to those found in pools. When a d…og drinks pool water, they are ingesting more chlorine than is healthy, along with other possible chemicals. An occasional lap of water from the pool will probably not do any damage, but the dog should be discouraged from drinking pool water as much as possible. The best way to avoid your dog drinking pool water is to keep a large bowl of fresh water near the dog pool or swimming pool and if you see the dog drinking the pool water, to gently scold them and bring them over to the bowl of fresh water so they know that it is available for them to drink. After a few times of being scolded or being led to the fresh water, the "dog drinking pool water episodes" should diminish to a point where they are not detrimental to the dog.
1) Just don't do anything leave it alone (the chlorine will eventually drop, high amounts of sunlight and a high bather load will speed up the process 2) You can add chemica…ls to the pool 3) Replace some of the pool's water to fresh, clean water
Put less chlorine in or turn the chlorinator down if you have a salt water pool the chlorine that is already in the water is dissipating all the time, so you don't have to wor…ry about that. IF you need to reduce the chlorine level immediately to conform to a certain standard then you can add sodium thiosulfate to bring it down to where you want it. This is if you don't have the time to wait a day or a week for it to come down on its own. I've seen chlorine levels so high it took a month for it to come down to normal on its own.
Answer Add more liquid (12% or at minimum 10% strength) chlorine.