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If you need 220v 3-phase power how many wires are required coming in from the transformer or power pole and what are the voltages or potential purposes of each wire load 110v load 220v neutral ground?
In 120/208V 3 phase system you have 5 wires: three hots, one neutral, and one ground. You have 208V between any two hots and 120V between any hot and neutral. The neutral is the same as in a single phase system. Clarification: Only 4 wires maximum come from the pole - 3 phases and a neutral, and then only if the transformers are on the pole. The ground is always locally derived from a ground rod(s) and/or cold water pipe ground. Most of the time, only 3 wires come in from the pole - the 3 phases in a Delta configuration (Delta has no neutral). The neutral is then derived from a local transformer connected in a Delta-Wye setup. The neutral is the center connection in the Wye. So, from the utility feeder to the transformer - 3 wires. From the transformer (wherever it is located) to the building service entrance panel - 4 wires. The ground is connected at the service entrance panel, and from there to the rest of the building you would have all 5 wires. Clear? In the US, 208/120 is a standardized mains voltage, but in some parts of the world, the phase-to-phase voltage is 220. In that case, the phase-to-neutral potential (in a 3-phase system) would be 127 Volts, not 120.
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Answer for USA, Canada and countries running a 60 Hz supply service.THHN 6 gauge is rated at 75 amps at 240. I ran it through a 2 1/2' conduit and it works great. You will nee…d a real wire puller to get it through though, this fishline or string stuff just won't pull 4 stands of 6 gauge around any corners at all. I would recommend 6ga for runs under 75ft, 4ga for under 150, and 2 for under 225. Ok #6 is good for 65 Amp @ 75degC. I know the table for thhn wire shows #6 is good for 75 Amp @ 90degC. But you can not use that column. You have to use the 75degC column. The reason for using the 75degC column is the terminations (wire lugs) (circuit breakers) (wire nuts) (etc.) are only rated 75degC. not 90degC. You have to use the weakest link as the max. If one of the terminals in the circuit were rated 60degC then #6 thhn wire would be good for 55amp @ 60degC. You must not run hotter than the rating! (by - tbcguy) I am a Licensed Electrician, and have been in the trade for 22 yrs. As mentioned above you Cannot use the 90degC column for the above mentioned reasons. ** Also note the 65amp rating is the maximum @ the 75degC column, but the STANDARD size "Breaker" is 60 amps, so you would drop down the rating of the 6 awg wire to 60a maximum load. < As always, if you are in doubt about what to do, the best advice anyone should give you is to call a licensed electrician to advise what work is needed. Before you do any work yourself, on electrical circuits, equipment or appliances, always use a test meter to ensure the circuit is, in fact, de-energized. IF YOU ARE NOT ALREADY SURE YOU CAN DO THIS JOB SAFELY AND COMPETENTLY REFER THIS WORK TO QUALIFIED PROFESSIONALS.
How do I connect an electrical light switch that has a line neutral ground and load wire that connects to a 2 wired low voltage light?
Answer A switch makes or breaks the hot wire, it does not bother the neutral or ground. To wire in a switch just put in between the line and load wires. There are two …terminal points on the switch; put the line wire under one and the load wire under the other. For a low-voltage circuit without an obvious hot and neutral, just cut one of the two wires and splice the switch in there. Low voltage stuff should be double-insulated so it really doesn't matter which wire you choose. But be sure to use the right type of switch! If you are using this for low-voltage DC be sure to check the ratings of the switch. Regular switches for household use are for AC only. They can handle 15A, but cannot break an arc that forms breaking a DC load as they are designed to have the voltage across them go to 0V 120 times a second. Most switches will be rated to 600 or so VAC, but only 30-50VDC. Make sure you take this into consideration, or else you will burn your switch's contacts. If you are on low-voltage AC you are fine. Carry on.
The power supply in usa is 110 V and where as in india the voltage is 220 v.As we use transformers and transformer is a constant power device i.e. P=V*I=Constant. Therefore …when we increase the voltage,current gets reduces. Power losses=I^2*R. So,with decrease in current,power losses decreases. In india,voltage is more than in USA therefore there are less losses comparatively and it is more economical to have 220 V. But with increase in voltage,safety decreases ii.e chances of getting shock is more.So,there is a disadvantage of having 220 V. So,accordingly USA set up voltage as 220 V and India set up voltage as 110V. Answer Your question isn't really correct because residences in North America are supplied with 240 V. The system used is called a 'split phase' system, in which the 240-V secondary winding of a distribution transformer is centre tapped, providing a neutral, while its outer ends each provide 120 V with respect to the neutral. Accordingly, houses in North America have both 240 V and 120 V -with the 240 V supplying heavy loads, such as stoves and driers, and the 120 V supplying lighting and socket outlets. The drawback of this system, in practise, is that the 120-V circuits are limited to around 1800 W as, typically, they are fused 15 A. Indian 240-V circuits don't, therefore, have lower losses than North American circuits as larger load currents can flow in the 240-V system than in the 120-V system.
In order to safely run 30 amps of electricity, a minimum of a #10 gauge wire is needed. For longer runs of wire, #8 gauge is better.
Quick answer is that 220v does not use or need a neutral. The original concept of the neutral (going back to Edison and DC power) was cutting the power in half (not real…ly accurate but one way to look at it). Think about two 110v batteries in series the neutral would come off the connection between the two batteries. so current flow would go from +110 to -110 (first battery) to +110 to -110 (second battery) resulting in 220 output. The connection between the batteries (the neutral) is +110 / -110 resulting in 0. If you want a 110 current instead of using the full flow you could instead use only 'one side' and the neutral and get the 110. When we made the move from DC to AC the basics of this format was kept. So for 110v you need hot and neutral (and a ground) for 220v you need two hots (no neutral) and a ground. HUGE CATCH - WARNING - WARNING!!! Just because you think your equipment is 220v doesn't mean everything it does it does requires 220v for example: some equipment uses 220v for the motor and 110v for the rest of its electrical needs (Dryers are a typical example). In the old days, the dryer would use the two hots (and ground for safety) for 220v and then use one hot and ground (no 'safety' ground) for 110v. However, people often got shocked because this unsafe method would often cause the entire metal chassis to take on a charge. So todays dryers (and any other machine that has both 220v and 110v components) have and are required to have 2 hots ground and neutral. However, the documentation isn't always specific about the '110v need' and a lot of 220v only equipment will still have 4 wire connections even though the neutral is not needed. If you are sure your equipment never utilizes 110v - then you don't need a neutral (a single motor, no thrills (control panel, laser guides, etc), 220v table saw would be fine with out a neutral (one with the thrills may be fine also - depends on the power requirement of the 'thrills'). I don't know about your generator is depends if it is strictly 220v.
The neighboorhood power went down from 220V to 110V all the power trucks have now left how do you know if you have 220V coming in or not No Multimeter?
Most residential homes are fed with 220-240V AC 1 phase. If you lost a phase only 1/2 the circuits in your house would work Any appliances that were 220-40 VAC would not w…ork Basically every other circuit breaker in your panel would work and the ones that are double would not If you lost a phase and you ran an appliance and it made a humming noise instead of running turn it off immediately. And call the electric power company to fix the supply into your house!
No, of course not. The power supply needs to match the 'wall power' to provide the proper voltages to the motherboard. On the bright side, most power supplies sold …in the US have a slide switch to select between 110/220 volts input. It may be as simple as moving a little red switch on the back of the power supply to configure your power supply to 110 v.
The very best way is to look for a data plate on the water heater. It will list the operating voltage as well as the wattage. If there is no data plate, you could r…emove the cover on the side and look at one of the heating elements. The voltage rating is usually stamped on the element somewhere. You should also note the color of the three wires. One of them will be either green or bare. If one of the remaining two wires is white, then there is a good possibility the heater is 120V. If neither of the two wires is white, then you may have a 240V unit. You do NOT want to rely on just the wire colors, though. Find the voltage rating on the unit somewhere.
If you have both 220V 3 phase power and 110V single phase power can it be converted to 220-240V single phase power?
If you have a 220v three phase delta system, the phase-to-phase voltage is 220v single phase; hence, no conversion is necessary. Don't worry about 220-240v rating, the v…oltage rating is nominal. Your 110v single phase has actually already be taken from a center-tapped transformer on your three phase system.
As always, if you are in doubt about what to do, the best advice anyone should give you is to call a licensed electrician to advise what work is needed. Before you do a…ny work yourself on electrical circuits, equipment or appliances, always use a test meter to ensure the circuit is, in fact, de-energized. IF YOU ARE NOT ALREADY SURE YOU CAN DO THIS JOB SAFELY AND COMPETENTLY REFER THIS WORK TO QUALIFIED PROFESSIONALS.
If you double the voltage (and the resistance stays constant), you will quadruple the wattage. Typically it will cause overheating and meltdown of electric…al components, and anihilation of electronic components due to the avalanche breakdown.
Definitely NOT. You get 110 V between one of the two hot 220 V conductors and neutral. Voltage between neutral and ground should be zero.
"Power" is not expressed in volts, but rather in watts (Volts times Amperes), for instance. So you cannot say whether 110v or 220v is more Power-ful unless you also know h…ow much current (Amperes) is flowing in the electrical circuit.
The power-bar must be plugged into the correct voltage it was designed for.