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Is it possible to use the 240V oven outlet and convert the voltage to standard 120V with some kind of external adapter?
Yes, but I do not know of an adapter per se. Expose your 220V power lines. There should be two hot wires (black and red). They can technically be split apart and wired to two separate 110V outlets, but the neutral wire would have to be shared (not split, shared), same with the ground wire. Don't do this. It is a hack and doesn't meet code. Just run the right wire.
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You don't. Electric devices like outlets have voltage and current ratings that should not be exceeded. Also, the 240V would have to be run from the main panel and may require …a different size wire depending on the current required.
The reason that 120v service was chosen, was economic. Originally electricity was delivered to homes, and most businesses, for a single purpose and that was lighting. Can open…ers, TVs, washers, dryers, electrical factory machinery, etc. came later. At the time the most cost effective form of light bulb was a carbon filament bulb that operated best (optimally) at 100v to 110v. This, adjusted for transmission voltage drop, set most supply lines at 120v. Supplemental and Related Information: By the time cost effective, and higher voltage, metal filament bulbs were brought to the market, most of the cities in the USA were already running 120v supply lines. Europe was just starting such systems and opted for higher voltage supply lines. Higher voltages are used for long distance transmission and power distribution because more power can be transferred over the same size wire at a higher voltage (lower current). Power generation plants often use voltages in the hundreds of thousands, 115,000 to 165,000 of volts to move power over long distances. For lines of up to 20 miles long around a city, 2400 volts works well to reduce the voltage loss in the wires. In North America, the electrical power lines going to residential streets and roads are operated at a primary voltage of 7200 volts. This voltage (12500/1.73 = 7225) is one leg from a three phase 12500 volt primary line. On the secondary of the transformers it is center tapped to provide 120 volts from each 240-volt leg to the center point. The center point is electrically neutral. The actual measured voltage in your house receptacle circuits will normally be 110 to 120 volts. All appliances are rated for the minimum operating voltage (110-115). This is the cause of confusion about the actual level of the supply voltages. Different nominal voltage level and frequency standards are used in different countries. Europeans - and many other countries around the world - use 50 Hz (cycles per second) as the alternating frequency, not 60Hz as is used in North America and, again, many other countries around the world. The reason to use a higher voltage is that it is more economical because the current is less, so the wires can be smaller. On the other hand, the reason to use lower voltage in homes is safety: the lower the voltage, the safer it is. If you have 10 amps drawing on one leg of your 240/120 service, and 10 amps on the other leg, the I2R losses are one fourth what they would be if you had 20 amps on just the one leg. The Europeans use 415/240 (415/1.73 = 240), so their I2R losses are 1/16th of our 120 volt losses, with 20 amps drawing on just one leg. 480 V center tapped (split phase) is used in the UK only rarely, typically in rural areas to supply an isolated small group of houses that can be fed off a single phase overhead spur. Most houses and small businesses are supplied with 240 V single phase taken from a 415 V three phase local system, fed from a transformer of up to 700 KVA connected to the 11 kV distribution system. The voltage is mostly 240 V but is nominally described as 230 V with a suitably wide tolerance, to comply with European standards. Originally, the service voltage was about 90 volts direct current, which was Edison's plan. Tesla proposed that the electrical grid be alternating current (AC) and competed with Edison for the first generating plant to be built in the State of New York at Niagara Falls. Edison proposed a DC system and Tesla an AC system. History tells us that Tesla won the competition, and because of that the industrial revolution was quickly accelerated. Had Edison won we would probably still be in the dark ages because of the inefficiency of transmitting DC current over long distances. While Edison was promoting the electrical light bulb around the country, almost every town required its own generating station because DC would lose so much in the transmission that it became unusable after only a couple of miles. Tesla also had invented the poly phase alternating current generators that provided for the ability to generate the voltages necessary for long distance transmission. Tesla kept the voltage about the same as what Edison started but raised it to the 110 volts alternating current (VAC) because of the higher related voltages of 220 VAC and 440 VAC, which were integral to the more efficient poly phase generators. The standard voltage available in most parts of the country (US) is now nominally 120 VAC volts +/- 10%, and can vary from 108 VAC to 132 VAC. It's usually around 117-118 VAC. Transmission distances, the actual power needed in a neighborhood, cost, efficiency and safety issues dictate service parameters. Common distribution voltages run up to 16,000 volts. 12,000 is very common but there is still a lot of activity adding on to legacy distribution grids at lower voltages. A 2400 volt primary is very low for a distribution transformer. In actuality power transmission is over many miles and the transmission voltage is more then 110kV. In fact interstate transmission is in the range of close to 500kV. At a substation it is reduced to 16kV for local area distribution. Transmission for the whole of the grid in North America is all tied together . Why? For economy and reliability. For example in the Summer some states do not use air conditioning but in Las Vegas, Nevada they do, so they actually buy the power from Canada in the summer because it is cost effective and reduces the need for more generation plants. Even then reserve spin power must be sustained for peak demands. Because power plants cannot produce near instant acceleration to meet new demands. In many cities and other peak demand areas, specialist peakers work to ensure that the the integrity of the grid is always maintained. 240 v is standard for the USA but only one phase is used and the transformer center tap is grounded, making it safer. Also, the main frequency of 60 Hz produced by power generation is not as stable as some people think. It varies throughout the day as loading changes but the controllers must legally ensure that it averages 60Hz over a complete day so that electric clocks using synchronous motors remain accurate.
No. The device will only have half the voltage it needs and will not operate properly. Follow the ratings on the device. The pin configuration of the 240 volt receptacle is d…ifferent from a 120 volt pin configuration. This is a safety factor to prevent the wrong voltage being applied to the wrong devices.
It is theoretically possible, only the rating of the kettle will be 1/4, i.e. only 750W. The amperage of a 3000 watt kettle at 240 volts is Amps = Watts/Volts = 3000/240 …= 12.5 amps. The resistance of a 3000 watt 240 volt kettle is R = Volts/Amps = 240/12.5 = 19.2 ohms. The amperage of the 3000 watt kettle at 120 volts is A = Volts/Resistance = 120/19.2 = 6.25 amps. The wattage output of the 3000 watt kettle at 120 volts is W = Amps x Volts = 6.25 x 120 = 750 watts. In a resistive circuit Ohms law holds true: current is directly proportional to the voltage so "half the voltage, quarter the wattage". Further opinions 1) The voltage at the 110/120v outlet is too low. It is incorrect to assume that a safe way to get around this is by using a transformer because: 2) The power consumption of this appliance is too high. Your kettle draws 3000W, but a standard 15A 120V outlet can only supply 1800W. You will not be able to run the kettle off a standard 120V outlet by using a transformer to produce the 240v because you will find you are continually blowing the circuit's fuse or tripping its circuit breaker, and anyway the transformer would be very bulky, heavy and prohibitively expensive. Hire someone to install a dedicated 240V outlet for your kettle. There is a reason why it has the special plug. Assuming you are in the USA and wanting to use a UK electric kettle because you are a tea drinker and cannot wait the eternity for a 110v kettle to boil, a temporary option depends on the wiring of your house. Many modern kitchens have a dedicated 120volt 20amp circuit each for the fridge (or microwave). You would need to replace the 120v outlet with a 240v 20 amp device, and replace the single pole breaker with a 20 amp two pole breaker in the electrical panel. Also you would need to change the plug on the kettle. You would then need to plug the fridge or the microwave into one of the other kitchen outlets. This solution would meet National Electrical code requirements, but is messy. If you are going to be in the property for a longer period, it is well worth while installing a dedicated 240v circuit with 20amp fuse and correct sized outlet above the kitchen counter top. FOR SAFETY in the of wet/damp environment of a kitchen it should be GFCI protected, just like the 110v outlets. As always, if you are in doubt about what to do, the best advice anyone should give you is to call a licensed electrician to advise what work is needed. Before you do any work yourself, on electrical circuits, equipment or appliances, always use a test meter to ensure the circuit is, in fact, de-energized. IF YOU ARE NOT ALREADY SURE YOU CAN DO THIS JOB SAFELY AND COMPETENTLY REFER THIS WORK TO QUALIFIED PROFESSIONALS.
WARNING No way should anyone who is not a licensed electrical engineer tamper with any 240 volt outlet. It is not safe to replace any 240 volt outlet with a 120 volt outlet… unless the following actions are also taken: ensure the present branch circuit cable is not too thick to be safely and securely inserted into the outside casing of the smaller 120 volt outlet ensure that the wires in the cable can actually be inserted correctly into the terminals of the 120 volt outlet and that the screws can be fully tightened in the circuit breaker box, locate and change the circuit breaker to one having the correct ampacity rating for a 120 volt service in the circuit breaker box, locate the hot wire which will no longer be used and take it out of service by insulating its wires safely A licensed electrician would know how to check all these items for you and would advise the best action for you to take. He would use the correct size of wire to supply the current required by the 110 - 120 Volt appliances you want to use and connect it to the correct sizes of circuit breakers on the main panel and also a GFCI safety device to protect users from electrocution if the room is likely to be damp or have water spray or wet floors, walls or ceiling, such as a laundry room or a kitchen. All this is necessary to comply with the latest Wiring Codes in your locality. (Town/State.) Then you would be able to use a 110 - 120 Volt appliances safely in the room in question. The following information is incomplete and unsafe to follow on its own: "240 VAC (in the USA) is usually supplied by two out of phase 120 VAC lines. The way to tell is that it will have three connections - the two 120 V Hot lines and a Neutral connection. There is 120 VAC between each line and Neutral. Before you try to make a 120 v socket from a 240, measure with a voltmeter between each set of contacts. If you get 120 between two of the three sets, you can change it over to 120 v. First run off the power. Then remove the socket, and wire a 120 V socket to one of the 120 V Hot wires and the Neutral. Make sure you wire the Neutral to the white metal contact and the Hot to the brass or gold colored contact. Make sure the other 120 v Hot is isolated." As always, if you are in doubt about what to do, the best advice anyone should give you is to call a licensed electrician to advise what work is needed. Before you do any work yourself, on electrical circuits, equipment or appliances, always use a test meter to ensure the circuit is, in fact, de-energized. IF YOU ARE NOT ALREADY SURE YOU CAN DO THIS JOB SAFELY AND COMPETENTLY REFER THIS WORK TO QUALIFIED PROFESSIONALS.
There are 110 volts going to recepticles along the walls ect. These are for lamps, vaccuum cleaners, most things besides stoves, dryers, heating and cooling(most). But t…he only way to use your 110 volt outlet for a 220 is to combine 2 110 volt legs to make it 220 volt. Then you neeed to make sure your breaaker is capable of the increase.
no you must run a dedicated line NO Yes, with a caveat. The current ratings must be the same, the the 110V outlet must be a dedicated circuit, i.e. nothing else on that brea…ker. You can safely upgrade a dedicated 110V 15A circuit to a 220V 15A circuit by re-using the same wiring. You will have to just replace the breaker and the outlet. You cannot, however, increase the current load or have a 110/220V (4-prong) outlet. Note that if you move a non-dedicated circuit up to 220 you will start a fire. I read this question as " I spent alot of money on a hot tub and I want to save money on the installation, so how cheaply can I endanger my family to impress them?" Call a professonal!!!...pkazsr
No. You need to have a 220 outlet. Your 110 has only 1/2 the voltage you need. Also, the question you ask is not really feasible. The wattage required by the heating elements …is more than what a 110V line could handle.. Outlets and power . (110V outlets and 120V outlets are practically the same for this discussion. I will refer to them as 120V. Same with 220V/240V outlets.). By 110V outlet I'm assuming you mean a standard US 120V 15A outlet.. This outlet can provide a maximum of 15A at 120V. This means the outlet can provide 1,800W of power. ( Volts x Amps = Watts ) This is the maximum amount of power this outlet can provide, no more. Also, this is assuming nothing else is drawing power off the circuit this outlet is on. If you try to pull 1800W from an outlet and plug anything else into this circuit, the breaker will blow.. Your dryer is designed to run off a 30A 240V circuit. Let's say, for argument, it draws 24A at 240V. This means your appliance requires 5,760W of power to run correctly. This is 3.2 times the absolute maximum amount of power your 120V outlet can provide. There is no way you can run this appliance off this outlet. You have a larger problem here than the voltage difference.. Answer . \nNO WAY. \n. \n Answer \n. \nOne person has said "homes are not wired 110v, they are wired 220v. if you put a 2 pole breaker (or 2 pole fuse, if it's a fuse panel) in the panel, you will get 220v."\n. \nAlthough it may be partly true, it does not answer the question. The related questions explore the amount of power needed for a dryer, which cannot usually be supplied through the wiring for a 110 V outlet.\n. \nSo, in general, the answer is no. You will need to run a different set of wires from the breaker/fuse panel to the location where the dryer is to be installed, and use a 2-pole breaker and the proper dryer outlet.. Answer . You could, in theory, but the transformer would weigh more than the dryer and cost at least 4 times as much as a new dryer. The circuit would also have to be upgraded to at least a 60 amp 120volt outlet. Very impractical.
If you consider doing this the first thing is SHUT THE MAIN BREAKER OFF . Use an auxiliary light source to see when working in a dead panel. Always keep in mind an ARC FLASH… ACROSS HOT MAINS HAS ENOUGH HEAT TO PEAL THE SKIN OFF OF YOU . Before an explanation of how to do it you should keep in mind that this is for a single receptacle only. If any other receptacles are on the same circuit they will also be changed to 240 volt receptacles and if you plug any 120 volt device into them, the 120 volt device will be destroyed. That said OK, any 120 volt outlet can be changed to 240 volt by removing the 120 volt circuits neutral, re identifying the white wire with red or black phase tape and connecting it to a new 2 pole 15 amp breaker. The maximum that this circuit will now load up to is, on #14 wire at 80% = 12 amps at 240 volts. The 120V receptacle must be changed to a 15A - 240V receptacle so that 120 volt devices can not be plugged into it. Never use 2 single pole breakers together because code requires that on a fault trip both legs of the 240V circuit must be disconnected simultaneously. If you have any questions use my message board.
s for USA, Canada and countries using similar 60Hz mains supplies Conversion Dangerous and NOT RecommendedUmmm no. If you did try to do it, you'd have a pretty good cha…nce of burning your house down. More Information: I want to say "no" you can't do this based on what you've told me. What matters here is the size of the wire, 240V is 240V and that part of it doesn't matter. A dryer uses #10 wire for 30 amps and a washer uses either #14, or #12 for Canada vs US. If you were to just switch out the receptacle you would run the risk of burning up the 15 amp wire as it's not designed to carry that kind of load continuously. If you have a wire stripper that has the awg wire gauges on it and it measures out to #10, then you can swap out the receptacle and breaker and convert this to suit yourself. If in doubt, always consult a licensed electrician. IF YOU ARE NOT ALREADY SURE YOU CAN DO THIS JOB SAFELY AND COMPETENTLY REFER THIS WORK TO QUALIFIED PROFESSIONALS. If you do this work yourself, always turn off the power at the breaker box/fuse panel BEFORE you attempt to do any work AND always use a meter or voltage indicator to insure the circuit is, in fact, de-energized.
Are you certain that you mean "amps"? Maybe you mean 110 VOLTS. The voltage in most home circuits are 110 volts except for a few appliances like driers, well pumps, hot water …heaters, etc. And even those appliances probably only use 30 amps or so. The whole house may only have the capacity for 100 amp or maybe as much as 250 amp service. And to answer the question, a 220 volt appliance would not work on a 110 volt circuit.
No, you can not plug a 240 volt amplifier into a 120 volt outlet. That said there are a number of step-up transformers available that will convert 110V to 220V - that's the si…mplest way to do it. You should make sure the transformer is rated at many times the power of your amplifier, because of inefficiencies in the amplifier. Look on your amplifier to see how many amps it uses at 220V. Double that number for going to 110 and add 20% more amps as a conversion margin. Take that number and multiply it by 110 to get the watts you need to supply. Size the transformer accordingly. eg. 5 amps @ 220V 5 amps * 2 = 10 amps 10*20% = 2 amps Total amps = 12 amps 12 amps*110 = 1320 watts In this example a transformer rated at or above the calculated wattage is recommended.
NO, unless you get a converter that converts 220 to 110.
Answer A "110" volt outlet cannot be converted to a "230" volt outlet. A 230 volt outlet requires a new wire run to the outlet rated for the appliance you p…lan on plugging into it. Example an airconditioner that requires a 220 volt 20 amp circuit would have to have a 12/3 w/ground wire run to handle the load. The three wire are usually black,red,white. Black is for 1 120 volt line, red is for another 120 volt line and white is for neutral. On a standard 120 volt outlet there are 2 colored wires (black and whtie) and a bare ground. It's not an easy solution, but it is the only proper solution.
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Answer Yes - but picture quality will be affected. Try also buying a frequency convertor - maybe there is one on the market that does both. Check the TV Most modern TVs us…e a switching power supply as it is lighter and cheaper than a transformer. Switchers don't care about frequency (at all) as they immediatly rectify it to DC. Chances are it will run fine. Also, check the spec plate on the back of the TV. It may already handle 240V as it is cheaper to manufacture one power supply that works worldwide than different TVs for different countries. (Though the tuner in a TV may negate this argument.) Answer Probably not, but this has nothing to do with the voltage. Televisions designed to operate at 240 V 50 Hz are likely designed for European television systems which (except in France) use the PAL standard, whereas those designed to operate at 120 V 60 Hz are likely designed for North American television systems which use the NTSC standard. Unless the television is multiple standard, they need to be used on the system for which they are designed,
Answer for USA, Canada and countries running a 60 Hz power supply service. For some very low power 240 volt appliances - such as electric razors, radios, etc. - it may …be possible to use a transformer to change the voltage from 120V to 240V. However many such items are designed to run on a wide range of voltages, such as 110V to 240V. Always read the label on the appliance to be sure, and also to find out if a voltage selector switch must be set to match the voltage being supplied. For heavy household appliances such as clothes dryers, water heaters, ranges, etc., it is not possible to use a transformer because the resulting current draw on a 120V outlet would be much higher than it can safely supply and would cause its circuit breaker or fuse to shut off the power. Using a transformer for even a small appliance might end-up being more expensive - and far more prone to breakdowns and safety problems - than paying for a correctly-sized new 240V branch circuit to be installed to power the appliance. Most homes and businesses are already wired for 240V at the main breaker panel. You just need to have a licensed electrician install an new 240V circuit, including the proper sized wiring and breakers. This would handle higher current loads and be much safer for you and anyone else in your household to use - and for anyone else after you have moved out. If you do this work yourself, always turn off the power at the breaker box/fuse panel BEFORE you attempt to do any work AND always use an electrician's test meter having metal-tipped probes (not a simple proximity voltage indicator) to insure the circuit is, in fact, de-energized. IF YOU ARE NOT ALREADY SURE YOU CAN DO THIS JOB SAFELY AND COMPETENTLY REFER THIS WORK TO QUALIFIED PROFESSIONALS.
A Discussion has been started for this question. To view it and take part, click the View Discussion button below this answer. Please provide the following information: … Is this a dedicated circuit? That is to say, is the cable at the outlet run directly from a two-pole breaker in the panel? If not, forget it. If so, how many and what color are the wires in the cable, and to what are they connected? Hopefully, you will find a cable with either two insulated wires and a bare ground, three insulated conductors, or three insulated conductors with a bare ground. What was plugged in at the 220 volt outlet? Dryer, A/C unit... What is the amperage of the breaker? What is the amperage of the 120 volt circuit you want to convert to? As always, if you are in doubt about what to do, the best advice anyone should give you is to call a licensed electrician to advise what work is needed. Before you do any work yourself, on electrical circuits, equipment or appliances, always use a test meter to ensure the circuit is, in fact, de-energized. IF YOU ARE NOT ALREADY SURE YOU CAN DO THIS JOB SAFELY AND COMPETENTLY REFER THIS WORK TO QUALIFIED PROFESSIONALS.