What are some popular choices of paint colours for interior walls?
There are many different colours that are currently considered to be popular choices. Some of the common popular choices include classic grey, blue, blue-green, beige, yellow and taupe. Depending on the design of the particular room, almost any colour is suitable.
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You can thicken runny interior paint as long as it is a latexpaint. You can use a thickening agent called cellosize hydroxyethylcellulose. Do not put more than twenty five per…cent of this agentinto the paint or you will not be able to roll it.
Answer . I think you mean a mobile home. It depends what kind of interior walls you have. I have seen them painted, but they put a base coat/sealer on them before they pain…ted.
The best thing for an internal stone wall is lime wash as it lets the wall 'breathe' so lets moisture out. It prevents damp and mould. It can be bought in a reasonably wide va…riety of colours now as well. http://www.mikewye.co.uk/mikeprices.htm#limewash Hope this helps :D
Assuming you mean whether to choose latex or oil paint: latex is easier to apply and to clean up, and it doesn't have the penetrating odor of oil, but oil looks better, protec…ts better and lasts longer.
Yellow, dark blues, olive greens, grayish, and moody.
Any good paint retailer will carry an additive to put into your paint to achieve an iridescent finish. Read the label carefully for best results..
Many pro painters use a spray gun.. It is many times faster than using a brush or roller.
That will depend on your lifestyle and favourite colours. If you entertain frequently and want a sophisticated look try taupe or grey for the walls, and paint your trim to ma…tch (or one shade darker than the walls). A good area rug with the aubergine in the pattern, casual tables in black lacquer or natural wood, throw pillows that include the black & aubergine in their pattern and window treatments to match the wall colours will finish the look. Note: if you truly love aubergine, you could go to a solid window treatment in the same colour as the sofa for impact. If yours is a casual life style, try sage or celery green on the walls (trimmed in white or natural wood), with tan or natural wood casual tables and accessories. Sisal floor coverings and bamboo window coverings will give the room texture and keep the look casual. For a very feminine look a soft, slightly greyed lilac on the walls would be wonderful.
Answer#1 With hydro-flouric acid. AKA, rust stain remover. Just don't get any of it on a glass surface, it will damage it! (NOT to be confused with hydro- chloric acid) … Answer Gently sand the rusted area and then use a damp cloth to remove the dust. Use Kilz or other primer to cover the stain. Then, paint over the area.
Quick Fix: If you only want to get rid of the look of the bubble you can use aneedle to let the air out of the bubble and apply some kind ofpressure on it to hopefully have i…t show a bit less... However thisis really more of an aesthetic fix How to properly fix a bubble: There are 2 reasons why a bubble would show on a freshly paintedwall. 1- If it's only the last layer of paint that's bubbling, thereason it's doing is because of a lack of adherence (grip). Toproperly fix this you need to scrape off the peeling paint, cleanthe surface (or sand), apply a bonding primer, apply a bit ofdrywall compound to repair the wall and repaint over. 2- It there are multiple layers forming the bubble (the wayto find out is if you can see the bare wall once you remove thebubbling paint), this means that the original paint film did notproperly adhere to the surface... and the more coats of paint youapply on top of it, the more it pulls on the original coat ofpaint. This happens more often on Plastered Walls either because itwasn't given enough drying time... or no primer was used. Eitherway, this is potentially a big problem and would be best to have aqualified painting contractor go over to asses.
Start with a clean dry, neutrally painted wall. Get your dimensions accurately measured and on a piece of graft-paper, draw your design for the wall. Make sure it is to sca…le. If you have a projector, use it to project your drawing onto the wall and using chalk outline the drawing. If you do not have a projector, and can not borrow or rent one, use a chalk line from the hardware store or use a long level and tape measure to draw a grid on the wall and manually draw your picture onto the wall using your scale drawing as reference. There are even people with enough confidence and talent to use chalk and draw the outlines of their design directly onto the wall, without a preliminary drawing, but this can lead to problems with composition and perspective down the road. If you are just starting out or relatively new to doing murals, it is wisest to work from a scale drawing. Once your outline is finished, take a good look at the drawing and make whatever final adjustments you feel are necessary. Then start painting. Use a good quality acrylic paint, that is light fast and permanent. If you are using brushes be sure to use good quality brushes of a large enough size to cover the large areas you are painting. The smaller brushes will be used for the finish and detail work, so don't forget them. Many mural artists use air-brushes (or even air-guns for very large walls) but I recommend you have lots of practice with an air-brush before undertaking a mural. This is no place to be "learning". If you are right handed, start in the upper left corner, (for lefties, start in the upper right, moving down and away from your starting point. Work on any background areas that will have subjects in the middle and foreground that will over lap them. Work carefully and try not to smudge the chalk lines of the areas you have yet to paint. Move on to your middle ground and then your foreground, only painting over things that are already dry. Once the basic painting is finished, go back and add your finishing touches (shading, highlights and fine details). Remember to step back regularly to see how the overall wall is progressing. Often when you scale a picture up you will fine the small areas that have no detail in them become much bigger and feel empty. You may want to add more texture or detail to these areas. Take your time, murals need to dry before you can paint over things. Working standing on a step ladder or even a chair is fatiguing, so take regular breaks to walk around or stretch. Look after yourself too, eat, drink lots of water and occasionally change your focal distance to keep your eyes from tiring. Once the wall is finished, have one last look at it, check for things you forgot, make all of your last minute changes and walk away to let it dry. One of the hardest things is to know when to stop, the bigger a painting is, the more temptation there is to keep adding things. This can result in a mural that is cluttered or too "busy." Know how close the viewer is going to be from the mural when it is finished. The closer they will be, the more fine detail the mural can support. If your Mural will be on an exterior wall ten feet off the ground, it is wasted time energy and talent to do features that are two inches high. Finally if the wall will be in a high traffic area or a high moisture area it is a good idea to seal it. Give the wall two to three days to dry fully, then use a low-luster or mat finish polyurethane, applied with a roller, to seal the entire wall. *Please note, many polyurethanes will yellow over time so read the can carefully. I do know some mural artists who use a professional grade air-gun to spray the sealer on, but this requires better knowledge of the workings of an air-gun than most people have. Not to mention over-spray and the need to work in a room that is properly prepared for the use of spay sealer.
It's not recommended. Paint intended for ceiling use is flat and usually high pigment. On a wall where it will be touched, bumped, scraped etc. the finish will not hold up and… will need to be repainted.
If You Own It, it shouldn't be a problem.
I paint interior doors to match the trim, but everyone has their own ideas.
Shades of pale brown, taupe, beige, ecru, mocha and others like that.
Dark semi-gloss colours.
The best paint that I have found for interior and exterior is BEHR: glidden and color place smear which means that as you apply it, it is taking it off again if you brush over… the same spot. BEHR also has primer in it so that you don't have to waste even more time priming the surface first (I have repainted my living room, bed room, children's bed room, bathroom, and entire outside of my house in the last 2 years so if I were you I would go with BEHR :) Hope this helps!