The breaker you use is determined by the size of the wire in the wall not by what is being connected to that circuit. If you have 14/2 wire then use a 15 amp breaker. If you have 12/2 wire then use a 20 amp breaker. The breaker protects the wiring not the item connected.
Breaker sizing is dependant on what the load amperage is that the breaker is connected to. If the amperage is not given but just the wattage, use this equation I = W/E. Amps = Watts/Volts. This air conditioner unit should be on a dedicated circuit receptacle. On these types of loads the conductor can only be loaded to 80% of the conductors rating. So a 15 amp breaker times 80% = 12 amps or Watts = Amps x Volts, 12 x 120 = 1440 watts. A 20 amp breaker times 80% = 16 amps or Watts = Amps x Volts, 16 x 120 = 1920. Once the breaker is sized remember to use the correct wire size to correspond with the amperage of the breaker.
You should not have to calculate the watts of the unit. All the information that you need will be on the nameplate of the unit. It is this information that electricians use to calculate the conductor size and breaker to supply the power to the unit.
"Air" and "Vacuum" describe how the breaker extinguishes the arcing current. An Air breaker opens far enough that the dielectric strenght of air is enough to extinguish the arc. A vacuum breaker's contacts are in a vacuum. Oil breakers use oil. SF6 breakers use SF6 gas to extinguish the arc.
The fuse (or circuit breaker) rating has been exceeded. I'm assuming you do NOT have the AC unit connected to a dedicated circuit. Lets say you have a 15 amp circuit breaker and the AC unit draws 12 amps and other items on the same circuit draw an additional 5 amps. The total amp draw of 17 amps exceeds the circuit design capacity; so the breaker trips to prevent an electrical fire. If you have old style fuses, NEVER EVER replace a fuse with a higher rated one! I'm sure you'd have problems with your homeowners insurance paying out when your house burns down. Have an electrician run a new dedicated circuit for the AC unit and you should be good to go.
415v air circuit breaker acceptable value of 0.01 ohms and lessthan
Look at the current rating on the AC unit. If under 16 Amps use a 20 A breaker and 12 AWG wire.
The breaker you use is determined by the size of the wire in the wall not by what is being connected to that circuit. If you have 14/2 wire then use a 15 amp breaker. If you have 12/2 wire then use a 20 amp breaker. The breaker protects the wiring not the item connected.
There is no reset button on a central air unit, there is a small breaker or fuse box outside next to the unit, it is possible the fuse is blown or breaker tripped.
The Energy efficiency rating for the LG 3850 BTU Air Conditioner/Heater unit is 9.7.
Amp Interrupt Rating
Need more information. It doesn't seem rationale that they are protecting the same circuit unless you are substituting one for the other for a test. A unit like an air conditioner may have multiple breakers and a higher value breaker may trip because the load it is connected to is drawing current in excess of the rating of breaker.
About a tenth of a ton.
14.0
A 20 amp breaker might actually be needed for the installation. It depends on the wattage and voltage of the window air conditioner.
You need to find the rating label on the unit. It would not be unusual for this to happen. I expect you need a 20 amp circuit.
That depends more on the current usage of each a/c unit than it does on the number of a/c units. Check the current draw of each should be listed somewhere on the units. Add up the current draw, and don't exceed 80% of the rating of the breaker.
Yes. You should use 8 AWG wire from breaker to AC unit.