What do the shutter speed and aperture sizes both control?
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Film speed and shutter speed . The slower the film -- that is, the lower the ISO rating -- the longer the shutter must stay open at a particular aperture (F-stop). In low light with slow film, the shutter may have to stay open too long for the camera to be hand-held without noticeable camera shake, even with cameras with optical image stabilization.
Shutter Speed refers to how long the Medium (the sensor or Film) is exposed to light. a common DSLR Camera can have speeds from as slow as 30 seconds to as fast as 1/4000th of a second
Shutter speed is how fast your shutter opens and closes to take a picture on your camera. Shutter speed also has a lot to do with exposure. The higher the shutter speed (1/2000 example) the less light.
You will increase the film exposure compared to what the on board light meter is suggesting. This is known as over exposure, but that is a relative term. "Over exposure" is not necessarily a bad thing.
\nIt controls the length of time a picture is exposed.\n. \nIn film photography this is a literal "door" that opens and closes allowing light to expose the film for a given amount of time (Example 1/60th, 1/125th of a second). In digital photography the door is not needed, the camera's sensor simply captures light for a given interval and records that as a single picture. This is why digital cameras are so quiet when taking a picture and manufacturers have taken to adding speakers and a "click" sound so people know they have taken a picture. The "click" they are simulating would have been the sound of the shutter opening and closing on a film camera.\n. \nIn motion picture photography or video the shutter speed (or angle for film cameras) refers to the same thing, how long the shutter is open during each frame. Typically 1/48th of a second (or 180 degrees) for film and 1/50th or 1/60th of a second depending on what country your video camera is from.\n. \nIn either case the shutter speed effects how much light is allowed to the capture device or film. The longer the shutter is open, the more light but also the more motion blur. Fast motion such as sports is typically shot at a high shutter speed if the desire is to stop the players in motion. If you want a picture of a football player's legs blurred to show their motion a lower shutter speed will do that.
All motion is blurred and more chance of blur if you have a shaky hand
I would say above 1/250th , normally used to stop camera shake, or subject blur.
The amount of time that the shutter remains open - allowing light to pass through it to form the image.. Generally - a lower shutter speed would be combined with a smaller aperture and a higher shutter speed with a larger aperture to correctly expose the image.
Shutter speed does not, of itself, control motion. The recorded images of moving objects will be less or more sharp depending on the shutter speed and the speed of the objects across the field of view.
Most cameras have available shutter speeds from around 10 seconds to around 1/2000th of a second, so the average would be around 5 seconds. I don't think this is really what you want to know. Would you please re-phrase your question?
Each controls the amount of light allowed into the camera [exposure] Shutter speed required governs aperture setting. eg if you want to take a scenic picture good depth of field is required to capture clarity in fore,middle and back grounds. Here you need longer exposure by way of slower shutter speed. To compensate for slow shutter speed you will need to narrow down the aperture to prevent over exposure, think of the aperture as the iris in your eye,depending on the light your eye needs for a clear image to the brain so the iris will expand or contract to widen or narrow the pupil. In the case of a close up you will need shorter shutter speed and wider aperture. This is a thumb-nail sketch only. Putting the above into practice is something else,thats why the little automatics are so popular. But you get it right with a manual and you cannot believe the superiority of the manual over the auto.The down side of the manual ? you don't get it right as often as you'd like
Aperture (the physical size of the lens opening) and shutter speed together control the amount of exposure, the total light that is allowed to strike the film or sensor. You'd want the aperture and shutter speed interconnected to control either motion stopping power or depth of field (you have to choose one over the other). For example: given a certain ISO and a fixed light level, assume that you or the camera have metered the scene and the amount of exposure is correct at, let's say, 1/125 second (shutter) at f/8.0 (aperture). Your shutter speed and aperture can be interconnected to get equivalent exposures at 1/250 @ f/5.6; or 1/500 @ f/4.0; or going the other way you'd get an equivalent exposure at 1/60 @ f/11 or 1/30 @ f/16. All the exposures listed are equal , even though they all sound different. The aperture and shutter are interconnected in that, as the aperture gets larger to admit more light, the shutter speed gets faster to limit the amount of time the light is admitted. So why bother? Because there are two other factors involved. One is what we call depth of field, which is defined as the area in front of and behind a subject focused upon that appears also to be sharp. Depth of field increases with smaller apertures (the f/8.0, f/11 and f/16 of the example). So if you're shooting a very tight close-up of a flower, where depth of field is very limited due to close focus, you might choose the 1/30 @ f/16 option, but at that slow shutter with a close up subject you might also want to mount the camera on a tripod. But let's say you're shooting skateboarders at the park. You're focused fairly far away so depth of field isn't terribly important, and in fact you'd want the depth of field relatively shallow to emphasize the skateboarder in the air, where you'd be much more likely to freeze him at 1/500 @ f/4.0. (Remember that these are just arbitrary examples.) On the other side of the coin, you don't want the shutter and aperture to be interconnected when the light level is changing, or the ISO, or both. Your hand held or in camera meter will select a different combination of shutter and aperture for a correct exposure, and if you have the option of controlling both, you can still select for greater depth of field or motion stopping.
Yes, shutter speed can affect your pictures in many different ways. Your shutter controls the length of time during which light can strike the film or sensor, and altering that period of time will usually have a profound affect. Without getting too technical, if you are hand holding your camera, your shutter speed should never be slower than the focal length of your lens. It's easier for me to speak in terms of 35 mm film cameras, so I'll use the example of a "normal" 50 mm lens. If hand holding the camera, the minimum shutter speed for a reasonably sharp picture is 1/60 second. But that's a minimum , and if you really blow up the resulting image, you will see some overall unsharpness because of camera shake. The higher you crank the shutter speed, the sharper at least the plane of sharpest focus will be because higher shutter speeds "freeze" more motion, including the motion you impart to the camera. Humans are like bowls of jelly, in constant motion. Your heartbeat alone is enough to move a camera and smear an image. But sometimes a slower shutter is exactly what you want, even when photographing a moving target. There's a technique called "panning" where you deliberately slow your shutter and move your camera to track your subject. It takes some practice to develop the skill, but try this with your 4-year old on a tricycle and you can make her look like NASCAR. You've probably seen one of those gorgeous "moving water" shots where a stream and waterfall are all smeared but everything else is sharp. That requires a very slow shutter, maybe several seconds, a tripod, and no wind to move the foliage. Higher shutter speeds, on the other hand, are good for "freezing" fast action. The main thing is, shutter speed has a big effect one way or the other, but don't forget that the aperture (f/stop) generally has to go in the other direction in order to hold the overall exposure where it needs to be. And we aren't discussing a phenomenon called depth-of-field at all because it wasn't part of the question.. Yes, shutter speed effects your photos and also greatly effects your photos depending on what you're shooting. For a base line of what they effects photos, is, the faster the shutter speed the darker the image will come out. The slower, the brighter, however it will have more chance of blurring depending on your lighting. When you use a fast shutter speed, you usually need separate lights besides the flash on your camera to brighten it up. Shutter speed also is important when you're shooting a moving subject. Say, you like taking pictures of water drops. You need a fast shutter speed, say 1/4000 second with water. This will produce a very dark image, so you need some lamps in your setup and/or a external flash on your camera. The flash on your camera is not as strong as an external one or your lamps. A slow shutter speed should be used when the lighting is good, so the image won't blur, and when shooting still life or non-moving subjects. For instance, flowers or even sea shells. You can use a 10/100 rather than a 1/4000 shutter speed as you don't need to capture a moving object crisply. A tripod is also very useful when using a slow shutter speed. Another instance where slow shutter speeds effect images is in the popular pictures of 'meteor shows'. This gives the image that the stars are streaking effect while everything else is still. This is a tripod moment. :)
Yes. Sensitivity of the film is also a factor in correct exposure, as are the processing conditions, though the latter are less significant as a variable in a very tightly controlled repeatable process (as in machine processing of color films under tight certification controls).. A "correct" exposure can be any equivalent combination of shutter speed and aperture settings; for example, an exposure of f/8 at 1/125 second is equivalent to f/16 at 1/60 second or f/22 at 1/30 second.
the fastest shutter speed available is the ones with the biggest lens and it is u r a loser if u read this cause i don't know what I'm talking about
To get the exposure level on the sensor correct - it's important in photography on film also. Many cameras attempt to do it automatically.
Shutter speed can also be refered to as exposure on some cameras.. the lower the # the longer the shutter stays open... Usually slowing shutter speeds is done for effects photos or low light conditions.. It's crucial that the camera remain still when using a slow shutter speed.
Use shutter priority mode (S mode on dial) or manual mode (M on dial) and then select the speed you want by using the dials.
In top cameras, from about 30 seconds to about one ten thousandth of second. Less range in cheaper cameras.
An aperture is an opening in the centre of your lens through which light passes. The amount of light, which passes through an aperture, is indicated by f/stops or f/numbers. The lower the f/stop the more light that passes through the aperture. Opening up one full f/stop doubles the amount of light entering the camera. F/4 admits twice the light of f5.6. . www.goldprints.com
f/1, f/1.4, f/2, f/2.8, f/4, f/5.6, f/8, f/11, f/16, f/22, f/32 are the usual full stops in aperture. You could have a full stop difference between two half or thirds as well. a full stop is when the light is halved or doubled between the two settings. so in shutter speeds if the time is close to doubled or halved its considered a stop so going from 1/30th to 1/60th would be a stop and the next nominal stop down would be 1/125th of a second.
aperture and shutter speed control the amount of light while iso refers to the sensitivity of the film or sensor to light.
How would you set the ISO for shutter speed and aperture for correct exposure on a rainy day and why?
The ISO speed, shutter, and aperture are all interconnected. There is never necessarily one "correct" setting for all 3. However, if you're not shooting on a tripod, you probably want to set your shutter speed to 1/60 to reduce camera shake. To eliminate grain, you may want to keep your ISO below 400. It may be cloudy on a rainy day, so you may be able to shoot at f/8 or f/11. Of course, on most digital cameras you could select a shutter priority (meaning the camera will adjust the aperture for correct exposure at a shutter speed of 1/60) and then set your ISO to 400. The camera will automatically meter the scene and set the aperture correctly.
An introduction to Shutter Speed and Aperture: Both of the above variables help control the amount of light that reaches the film (or in a digital camera, the CCD sensor), however they have differing affects on the resultant photograph. The shutter is a sheet that moves to uncover or obscure the film or CCD and normally obstructs the passage of light. The aperture is a hole in an optical diaphragm which can be varied in size to alter the amount of light entering the lens (a lot like the pupil and iris of a human eye). In general to maintain a good exposure, if you lengthen the shutter speed (allowing more time for light to reach the film or sensor) you must decrease the aperture size (to allow less light into the lens in the first place) and vice versa. Mathematical Relationship: In photography and other branches of optics, the aperture size of a given lens is often described as an F-ratio or F-stop number. This is the ratio of the aperture diameter to the focal length of the specific lens. This is expressed as N F = F / D A Where: N F = F-Number F = Focal length of lens D A = Aperture Diameter As such the mathematical relationship between shutter speed and aperture diameter is directly proportional (when the shutter speed gets higher, the aperture must get larger to maintain correct exposure) and the mathematical relationship between the shutter speed and F-stop number is inversely proportional (as the shutter speed decreases, the F-Stop number must increase - meaning that the aperture diameter is decreasing to avoid over exposing the image). This is known as a reciprocal relationship. However, when the shutter is slowed down beyond a certain point or the effective shutter speed is made extremely fast (via the use of strobe lighting), the purely mathematical relationship fails. This is known as reciprocity failure. Rather than explain it here, search for the question "What is reciprocity failure" (hopefully, no one changes the wording of the question). Their use in photography: Fast shutter speeds will "freeze" the object in the frame whereas slow shutter speeds will cause moving objects to blur (which can be a very effective technique when photographing flowing water / waterfalls). A very low shutter speed will actually cause moving objects to disappear from a photograph totally and is a common technique used by architectural photographers to ensure that moving people or vehicles do not appear in photographs of buildings. A small aperture (higher F number) will create greater depth of field, which is the distance in front and behind the point of interest which is being focused on. This is useful in landscape photography where you wish to include detail in the whole of the image. A large aperture (lower F number) will greatly reduce the depth of field, meaning that less distance in front and behind the point of focus will be sharp. This is very commonly used in portrait and wildlife photography where you wish to isolate the subject of interest from the potentially distracting background. Please see the related links.
When you open up your aperture or change your shutter speed by one full stop you are changing the exposure by?
100%............If for example 1/30 of a second at f5.6 is equal to the correct exposure. By increasing the shutter speed by 100% to 1/60 of a second and leaving the aperture at f5.6 would underexpose the picture by one full stop. To correct this you would have to adjust your aperture by one stop to f4. The exposure in both pictures would be correct. However, the depth of field would be different, and anything in that was in motion would likely have less motion blur as well (provided the speed and direction was the same during both exposures).
Aperture is hole that shutter creates to let in light to compose your image. The bigger the aperture, or smaller the f-stop (f/2), lets in more light. The shutter speed is how fast the shutter opens and closes. This has a major part to do with the lighting and whether the motion in your picture will freeze or blur. A high shutter speed (1/4000) will freeze all motion but majorily decrease light.
Each of these directly effect the overall exposure. Aperture adjusts the size of the opening that lets light comes through. The bigger the opening, the more light that hits the film (or sensor). Shutter Speed adjusts the amount of time that light is allowed to travel through the Aperture. A shutter that is open twice as long lets in twice the light. . ( Thinking of it another way ) Let's imagine water instead of light. To create a correct exposure, you need to fill a bucket with water. You want to fill the bucket to the top without overflowing. Adjusting Aperture is like adjusting the size of a water hose. A bigger hose allows more water to travel through. . f2.8 hose = 8 gallons/minute . f4 hose = 4 gallons/minute . f5.6 hose = 2 gallons/minute Adjusting Shutter Speed is like turning the hose on and off, leaving it open for an exact amount of time. To fill a 4 gallon bucket you can: . use a f2.8 hose for 0.5 minutes . or use a f4 hose for 1 minute . or use a f5.6 hose for 2 minutes If the bucket (your calculated exposure) is not filled to the top, then the image will be too dark. If the bucket is overflowing, then the image will be too bright. The size of the opening and the amount of time it is open both directly effect the outcome.
The lower the film speed the more light (aperture) and time (shutter speed) you need to penetrate the film emulsion that contains the reactive chemicals that produce the negative to get a proper exposure, because lower speed film tends to have a thicker emulsion and more of those chemicals. The whole point of higher speed film is that it has a thinner emulsion, thus reducing the amount of light and time needed to produce the same image, but the typical result is "graining" because there are simply less reactive chemicals in the emulsion. With lower speed film the sooner you'll need a flash to compensate for the lack of light. As an aside, the principle is similar in digital cameras, where the higher "ISO" results in digital graining, called "noise".
The faster your shutter speed is, the more underexposed (darker) your subject/ scene will be. fast shutter speeds include 1/200th of a second, 1/320, 1/400, 1/500, 1/640, 1/800, 1/1000 and so on. If the shutter is slower (1/30, 1/40, 1/50 1/60, 1/100, 1/160) it will let more light in. with a slower shutter and moving objects, motion blur will occur, which is why a faster shutter is used to take action shots such as sports, and a slower shutter is used in Modeling photography to capture those vivid colors and lights.
It depends on where you are seeing this number. Most shutter speed conventions do not use o1/12.5 of a second as a shutter speed; the closest would probably be 15 meaning 1/15th of a second, which is a very long/slow shutter speed usually producing blurs if you're not using a tripod. I can't think of a camera with that as a preset shutter speed but your camera might. You may possibly be looking at an intermediate f-stop (between 11 and 16) being reported on your screen or wherever these are shown (your LCD?) when you are in shutter priority mode where you are setting a fixed shutter speed and then the camera automatically adjusts for f stop (aperture) based on WB and ISO and is sophisticated enough to report an f-stop between 11 and 16).
Shutter speed is the amount of time that the camera's shutter (which lets the light coming in through the lens onto the film/chip inside the camera) is open. Aperture is the size of the opening inside that lets the light in. Both affect the amount of light entering the camera to result in an exposure - the longer the shutter is open and the wider the aperture, the more light that is coming in. Aperture also affects the depth of field of the image, so a wide open aperture such as f/2.8 will let in a lot of light and have a shallow depth of field.
You can set the Long Shutter speed. In Manual mode, select Â±0 then Disp. You can scroll between 1" and 15". I think 1"3 means 1.3 seconds.
Good question. Shutter speed is how long a photo is exposed.(if your talking about in video/film how long each frame is exposed) So if u have a low shutter speed the more motion blur there will be. High shutter speed will do the opposite. So at high shutter speeds it will freeze the action. Look at this photo http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/b/b2/Windflower-05237-nevit.JPG the spinner is moving at the same speed in each photo the one farthest to the left is a higher shutter speed and to the right is a low shutter speed. In Video/film what i just told u holds true. The effects that i just talked about appear on each frame of the video. So high shutter will but jittery and choppy (often used on purpose) (This may also help) The higher the shutter speed the less light enters the camera. This means that in low light if u set the shutter speed high the camera will compensate most likely by making the ISO(sensitivity of sensor asuming its digital) this makes the image poorer quality. higher and the aperture bigger making the depth of field more shallow(if u don't know what depth of field is look it up) But that's just what the camera will do automatically if its set up that way and it needs more light.
It is associated with the length of time a photosensitive surface is exposed to light.
The shutter is a piece of the camera that opens up when you take a photo. The shutter speed is how long this shutter stays open, the longer the time , the more light getting through - and the more motion blur. The aperture is the part of the camera that controls how much light is getting through, the smaller the f stop the more light getting through, and vice versa. The aperture is like the black part of are eye, I do not know if you have ever noticed, but, when you go in to a dark place the black dot gets bigger, when you go to a place with a lot of light the black dot gets smaller, same for the camera. Also, you did not mention ISO, that is not a part of the camera but just a setting. The higher the ISO the more sensitive the shutter is to light, but you also get more noise with high ISO.
All cameras have multiple shutter speeds and depending the mode your camera is (Manual, Auto, etc...) the camera will choose what shutter speed it thinks will be appropriate for the picture. And most cameras will also not tell you the shutter speed you used, while some will.
Shutter speed has a lot to do with your overall exposure. A higher shutter speed will decrease the light a lot. I was in best buy playing around with a camera and turned the camera shutter speed to 1/4000. After taking the photo, the preview was black. I realized it was because of how much higher I increase my shutter speed. Shutter speed also affects motion in a photo. A higher shutter speed will freeze all action in a photo a will less likely have a blur to it if you have a shaky hand. A lower shutter speed lets in more light while the shutter is will opened so the entire time that the shutter is open, the camera takes in all that light. Increasing chances of blur, you can also use this for crazy, funky effects! If your taking a picture of a waterfall with a low shutter speed, your gonna get a blur, which can typically look pretty epic sometimes too.
Shutter speed is how fast the shutter on your camera opens and closes, letting in light to compose your photograph. Shutter speed has a lot to do with the light of your photo. A higher shutter speed of around 1/700 may turn your image anywhere from black to barely black. A shutter speed of a round 1/8 will let in a low of light, having a possibility of overexposing your image. Shutter speed also controls whether or not any motion in your picture freezes or blurs. A shutter speed of about 1/700 will freeze most motion but a shutter speed of about 1/8 will blur all motion in your picture.
Aperture and shutter speed control the amount of light that passes from the lens to the film or digital sensor of a camera. Aperture is the size of the opening within the lens. The lower the f-stop number (1.4 for example) the larger the opening and the more light is passed through. Shutter speed is closely related. It is the amount of time that the lens is open. The combination of the size of the opening in the lens and the amount of time that the lens is open determine the exposure.
Aperture limits the amount of light that can reach the film (or sensor). The larger the aperture the greater the depth of field (subjects in the distance will be in focus). The smaller the aperture, the more shallow the depth of field. Traditional style portraiture requires a shallow depth of field so only the subject is in focus, blurring out everything in the background. Shutter speed refers to the duration in which the film (or sensor) is exposed to light. As a photographer, you have to find that balance between aperture and shutter speed in order to achieve your desired effect. Generally, the wider the aperture, the faster the shutter speed needs to be.
It is measured in a fraction of a second. For example 1/500th of a second
It doesn't necessarily inprove your picture. The higher the shutter speed, the less light, also the blur in a photo. A higher shutter speed will freeze a photo. A lower shutter speed will blur most motion and will increase chances of blur.
About a second. When you trigger the camera to snap, the snap sound plays, and about a second later, the view of the DSi cam will be captured and saved as a pic.
Well when the aperture is wide enough and shutter speed is not fast enough then there will be enough amount of light for the photo to be taken and looking good enough.
What is the best setting for the canon SX30 and I need to know the specific settings like do I put it on P or M and then what aperture or shutter speed is best?
It all depends on the light levels as it will constantly change, it's all physics
There would be a circle of buttons so you press the middle thAT would take you to menu press shutter and there you go
A shutter is a device that shuts. In a camera, it's the device that opens for a period of time, usually very short, to allow light to pass through the aperture, and then shuts. An aperture is an opening. In a camera, it's the opening in the camera's body, usually where a lens and shutter are mounted, where the light enters on its way to whatever is going to capture the image.
Shutter speed is how long the shutter stays open after you take a photo. The faster the shutter speed is, the less light you are letting in. How you should set your shutter speed is dependent upon the type of picture you want to take.
How do you get your shutter speed to slow down because when I do that the aperture won't work and it makes a dark picture and it won't let me go past a certain shutter speed limit on Nikon 42X P510?
When using a Nikon 42x P510 camera it is very easy to slow down the shutter speed. On the side of the camera there is a dial that you can access to slow or speed up the shutter speed.
Shutter speeds determine the length of time that the shutter is open, and that the film or sensor receives light. If I wanted to freeze the motion of a speeding car for example, I would need to have the shutter open for a very short period of time. If I wanted to show that the car is moving, I would leave the shutter open for a bit longer. Many different effects can be achieved by changing the shutter speed.