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it's the cable that connects your heating/cooling temp slide switch to the heater box inside the engine. If it's broken you will have no temp control.
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"Blend door stuck and clicks on your 2004 Ford Explorer?" FIRST BUY OEM BLEND DOOR MOTOR $57.00 + UP TOOLS NEEDED : PANEL TOOL OR FLAT BLADE SCREWDRIVER ,1/4 SOCETS 7 & 8MM … ....1/4 HANDLE...1/4 SMALL EXTENTION...1/4 RATCHET NO NEED TO REMOVE WHOLE DASHBOARD!!! REMOVE TWO7MM SCREWS FROM THE BOTTOM OF STEERING PANEL & PRY AND REMOVE PANEL. NEXT REMOVE TWO 7MM SCREWS ON BLACK PLASTIC STRIP THAT YOU SEE AFTER REMOVING STEERING PANEL....PRY THIS STRIP OF PLASTIC OUT JUST A LITTLE AND CUT IN THE MIDDLE . NEXT REMOVE TWO 7MM SCREWS FROM AROUND TOP OF INSTRUMENT PANEL (BY GAUGES ) PRY PANEL STARTING FROM AROUND VENT ON LEFT BY DRIVERS DOOR ""THIS PANEL WILL STAY IN PLACE LOOSE... NO NEED TO REMOVE!"" NEXT YOU WILL SEE 0NE 7MM SCREW BY GEAR SELECTOR AREA.. BEHIND THE LOOSE PANEL REMOVE THIS SCREW.. ALSO IN SAME AREA BUT LOWER THERE IS ONE 7MM SCREW THAT NEEDS TO BE REMOVED THAT HOLDS LOWER DASH PAD ITS FOUND BEHIND LOWER CORNER OF DASH PAD.( LOWER DASH PAD GAS PEDAL AREA ) "DON'T"!!! REMOVE THE FOUR 10MM BOLTS!!!! IN SAME AREA NEXT REMOVE RADIO /AC CONTROL TRIM WITH THIN SCREW DRIVER OR PANEL TOOL IT HELD IN BY SIX CLIPS...NO NEED TO DISCONNET ANYTHING IT WILL STAY THERE HANGING!! NEXT REMOVE TWO CENTER CONSOLE LOWER LARGE PLASTIC CLIPS BY FLOOR MATS. NEXT UNDER SQUARE BLACK RUBBER AT CENTER CONSOLE REMOVE ONE SILVER SCREW. MOVE SEATS FOWARD AND REMOVE TWO 8MM SCREWS FROM SIDES OF CENTER CONSOLE FROM BACK SEAT. PRY CUP PANEL SECTION THAT WAS HELD DOWN BY SILVER SCREW ...PRY UP TOP HALF OF CONSOLE STARTING FROM SECTION WHERE ARMREST DOOR IS.. DISCONNECT LIGHTER PLUG AND REMOVE PANEL . NOW YOU WILL SEE SIX SCREWS STARTING FROM BELOW RADIO TRIM WORKING BACK TO ARMREST DOOR .REMOVE ALL SIX..THESE HOLD THE BOTTOM PORTION OF THE CONSOLE ALSO DISCONNET ONE BLACK PLUG AND PULL ALL THE WIRES CLIPPED DOWN...PULL BOTTOM PORTION OF CONSOLE TO BACK SEAT. PULL LOWER DASH PAD GIVE A NICE TUG.. IT SHOULD MOVE OUT A LITTLE ..DID YOU REMEMBER ONE SCREW BEHIND CORNER DASH..!.STARTING FROM AREA BY GAS PEDAL LOOK UP IN THIS AREA YOU WILL HAVE ENOUGH ROOM TO GET A LONG EXTENTION WITH AN 8MM SOCKET TO REMOVE 3 SCREWS HOLDING MOTOR TO BLACK PLASTIC SECTION.. REMOVE SCREWS DISCONNECT SMALL BLACK PLUG AND PULL MOTOR FROM SOCKET GOING TOWARD DRIVERS DOOR DIRECTION. ALIGN NEW MOTOR SHAFT WITH SOCKET TIP.......IF NEED BE..... YOU COULD PLUG MOTOR HARNESS INTO NEW MOTOR THEN TURN IGNITION ON AND MOVE HEATER/AC CONTROLS TO GET THE SHAFT LINED UP..DONT MOVE ANY OTHER WAY!!!!!! NOW PUT SHAFT INTO SOCKET MAKE SURE YOU CONNECTED THE PLUG IF YOU HAVEN'T ALREADY!! INSTALL 8MM SCREWS AND TRY IT OUT YOU SHOULD HAVE HEAT NOW NOW INSTALL EVERTHING BACK IN REVERSE ORDER TOTAL TIME 45 MINUTES YOU JUST SAVED $350-$500 IN DEALER PRICES!!! DEALER 2.5 HOUR JOB! PLUS PART
There is a fix for broken blend doors being marketed. It avoids having to remove much of the dashboard and disconnecting the a/c system. I haven't done it, but the concept… looks good - and there are a number of videos showing how their repair works. heatertreater.net Answer The very common problem of a failed blend door actuator is extensively covered in the "Related Question" below. There is a blend door repair method at the Automotive Forums Windstar section. The heater core has to come out and some cutting of the 'plenum' around the door. The thread I've linked below includes a number of photos and heating/cooling diagrams. TIP: "Right-click, save" the images to be able to get nice clear printouts of them. The thread is a little short on the step 1, step 2, type detail, but will continue searching for other threads that may have it. An excellent start, and certainly helps you get an idea of exactly what you're dealing with. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- History and Root Cause of Blend Door Failures On earlier automobiles there was generally a slide lever on the HVAC control panel(remember?). This slide lever was connected by a cable to the blend door and you had the control to slide the lever to full heat, full AC, or anything in between. Â In the 90's most automobile manufacturers moved from manual blend door control to mechanized computer control. Generically, the HVAC system operates by providing air flow that can be directed through the AC evaporator and the Heater Core. The AC evaporator is cooled by the engine driven compressor and a flow of refrigerant, and the Heater Core is heated by a flow of hot radiator fluid through the core. The air flow is usually directed through the evaporator core and to the blend door where the air can be directed down two different paths to the vent system. One path goes directly to the vents, and the other path is directed through the heater core. For AC, the compressor is on and air is directed by the blend door directly into the vent system. For heat, the compressor is off and air is diverted through the heater core. These are the two extremes, and the system can split the amount of air flowing down the two paths and control on/off of the compressor to achieve any desired temperature between the two extremes. When the blend door fails, control over which path the air flow takes is lost and dependent on the design of the system and where the broken door falls, you will lose heat, AC, or both. When the manufacturers went to electronic control, different variations of a stepper motor were deployed to provide fine control over the position of the blend door. Some have variable resistance sensors built into the motor, or time measurements to gauge how long to run the motor to get to a desired position, or counting commutator clicks. Independent of the method used for fine control, the methodology requires that the system "knows" the extents of movement. The system has to measure where the door stops against the two end points of movement. The computer does this by driving the motor to a stall point and measuring a voltage surge or lack of change in the position monitor input. The DC motors are geared to move slowly with a great deal of force. The root cause of most blend door problems is the over-stress of this calibration process, and the plastic doors break over time like bending a coat hanger back and forth. The computer system generally goes through this calibration routine every 20 times that the car is started. Time-to-failure is not a traditional mileage, age, or driving habit function, but just how many times the car is started. A pizza delivery guy that stops the car for each delivery will fail much faster than someone commuting to work once a day. Automobiles were not built with this failure mechanism in mind and generally the process of replacing the blend door is involved and expensive. The usual dealer fix is to remove the steering column, pull the dash panel, evacuate and disconnect the AC system, drain and disconnect the radiator, and then remove the HVAC plenum(heater box). Once the box is out, it's fairly simple to open it and replace the cheap plastic door, and then put the whole thing back together hoping you don't screw up something else. HeaterTreater TM has developed processes for replacing the blend door without having to remove the dash and heater box. Cuts are made into the box in non visible areas with a Dremel tool, and the blend door is replaced with precision machined metal components. The process results in an easy, cheap fix and replacement components that are designed to outlast the automobile(much stronger than OEM plastic). To date, thousands of our HeaterTreater rm repair kits have been installed in multiple different models with 100% installation success and correct operation. We are intent on maintaining superior customer service and would appreciate your consideration of our products. Actually removing the temperature blend door is a very involved procedure. Reference a repair manual: Library (free)Buy one - about $18On-line resources - Autozone.com has a FREE and awesome online repair guide
On a 1982 there are two doors, one in the heater outlet and another behind the glove box. May be the same for 1988.
Under the middle of the dash, on top of the transmission hump, behind the plastic that covers the heat vents.
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The factory method requires removal of the dash and heater box to replace the plastic door with another plastic door. HeaterTreater has a new product to repair the 02-…08 Explorer without removing the dash, and replacing the door with metal that will outlast the Explorer. Check HeaterTreater.net.
The blend door is vacuum controlled. Any vacuum leak in the engine system can cause the door to not function properly. Check this system first. The door could be physicall…y sticking but a vacuum leak is a more common problem.
This response is from the HeaterTreater team. I'm not sure why you would want to replace one of our products, but if there is a problem we will bend over backwards to ma…ke it right. Also there is a video posted on YouTube or our web site that shows the installation process for our blend door product. Search "heatertreater" to find either or go to our "my page" for links.
Typically to fix a broken blend door, a mechanic will disassemble the entire dash, and replace the plenum box. Unfortunately this is an expensive fix because it is labor and p…arts intensive. There is a DIY solution called heatertreater. They provide instructions on how to access the blend door by removing the glove box, and replacing the blend door without removing the dash and plenum assembly. Broken blend doors are a common problem among Ford Explorers, and most heating and A/C issues in late model Ford explorers and Expeditions are directly caused by a malfunctioning blend door. Read more: http://wiki.answers.com/Q/2004_ford_explorer_heater_problems_clikcing_noise#ixzz1dTFTbrbp- Heater blend door fix http://www.blenddoorfix.netfirms.com/ You can also try look here: - http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/192261-99-eddie-bauer-expedition-blend-door-fix.html The heater core is difficult to change on the Ford trucks. They have it buried in the plenum box and you have to remove the steering wheel, steering column, dash, evacuate the refrigerant system, drain the radiator, and remove the plenum box to get to the core. Replacing the core is easy, getting to it is a day's work. The Expedition is particularly difficult to get to. It is almost above the transmission tunnel and well buried behind the dash. The Expedition uses the same plenum box as the F150, so any information on that system applies to the Expedition/Navigator. You need to be sure that the heater core is really the problem before tackling this job. If you have a pool of coolant on the floor, you'll have to go after the core. If the problem is lack of heat, there are some things you need to eliminate before tearing into the truck. You need to make sure that coolant is flowing through the core. Check the temperature of the heater hoses going into the firewall when the engine is cool and see if they warm up together as the engine warms up. If both hoses get hot at about the same rate, this is a good indication that coolant is flowing through the core. You can also remove the hoses and flush the core with a water hose splice from Home Depot and a water hose. Water should flow unobstructed through the core. If it appears that coolant is flowing and you don't have obvious leaks, the next step is to check the blend door. This door controls the air flow through the heater core and failure is common on Ford trucks. When the door breaks, it can block the flow of air through the core and kill heat and will also have an impact on AC. If the system seems to work intermittently, it's a good indication that the door is broken and rattling around randomly blocking or opening the passage to the core. For diagnostic information on how to check the operation of the blend door and a cheap easy fix, check the heatertreater listing on Ebay or the web site at heatertreater.net. The dealer fix for the blend door is basically the same procedure for replacing the heater core, so it will be expensive. The HeaterTreater alternative will solve the problem at a fraction of the cost and work and is well within the capability of the average shade tree mechanic.That is why Aluminum blend doors, recirculation doors and modes doors would be preferred over the plastic OEM blend doors.
To replace a broken blend door, typically a mechanic will disassemble the entire dash, and replace the plenum box. Unfortunately this is an expensive fix because it is labor a…nd parts intensive. There is a DIY solution called heatertreater. They provide instructions on how to access the blend door by removing the glove box, and replacing the blend door without removing the dash and plenum assembly. Broken blend doors are a common problem among Ford explorers, and most heating and A/C issues in late model Ford explorers are directly caused by a malfunctioning blend door. Read more: http://wiki.answers.com/Q/2004_ford_explorer_heater_problems_clikcing_noise#ixzz1dTFTbrbp
At the hump in the floor board, under the dash area, there is a piece of plastic covering the blend door area. Some will twll you that you have to remove the dash to replace t…his. I just popped off the cover and manged to get the motor out with a little finagling. Good Luck.
Start with removing the actuator motor. (See "Related Questions" below) With the actuator out, operate the temperature adjusting control and watch the motor to see i…f it is moving. NOTE: Movement alone does not guarantee that the gear teeth inside are not broken. Next, using a small screw-driver, or similar, try and operate the blend door itself. It should move freely and easily. Any binding is a bad bad problem. Hopefully your problem will be the actuator and not the door! See "Related Questions" below for more
Do a Google search on Ford Explorer blend door , there are quite a few articles and a couple of videos
Thx everyone for the detailed posts on how to change out this heat accuator on my 01 windstar...i bought the din tool from walmart for five bucks and had a hard time taking ou…t my radio even with the tool ....i was putting it in too far....it should only go in 1-1/4 b4 u gently push em away from each other and pull out ..it takes some finess and time ...i took many breaks on this and came back to it later till i got it..that was the hardest part of the job.... then i took out the radio and disconnected it and set it aside...dropped down the glovebox..took off the molding along with the climate control panel ,two bolts at the top used 7mm socket....the accuator is held with three 1 inch screws that are 8mm ...i also disconnected some of the plugs on the climate control panel for easier access....i used two exentions in conjuction with each other to make the job easy...the accuator was 35.99 at autozone..and they loaned me all the tools to do the job....the job took me two and a half hours..i also used a small flashlight for this job...and i couldn't have done it wthout the info on this site thx again everyone....
Behind the glove box, in the most upper left hand corner. Look for a white nipple on top, that's the blend door. Tight squeeze for big hands.
Inside the plastic housing that contains the heater core / and air conditioning evaporator located below and behind the glove compartment ( it's the door that's installed vert…ically / up and down )
In Chevy Blazer
The temp blend door is located in the HVAC box behind the dashassembly. The dash assembly must be removed to gain access.