What needs to be removed on a 2007 Kawasaki KLR 650 to replace the spark plug?
remove the air scoops, the rear side panels, the seat and the gas tank------- tools needed will be 10 and 8 mm sockets, #3 Phillips screw driver and a 18 mm socket for the plug.
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Is it difficult to replace the spark plugs on a 99 Cougar and are special tools required or do any engine components need to be removed?
After you remove the plastic shroud and metal box directly below it you can gain access to the front three. As for the back, remove the connector and screw at the 7 o'clock position on the dist cap off to the side. You CAN reach the back three with two 6 inch socket extenders and without remvoing …any other engine parts. Should take 30 min regardless of experience. I just did mine and I'm not a mechanic. (MORE)
Depends on which size plug you are using. Hint, keep changing sockets until you find the one that fits. They are not metric. There are three sizes of plug in normal use, 10mm, 14mm and 18mm. (They are identified by their thread size) The socket sizes for these are 5/8" (16mm) 13/16" (21mm) and 15/1…6" (24mm). However, many 14mm plugs (the most common size) have 5/8 hexagons, and many 18mm plugs have 13/16 hexagons! (MORE)
no all you have to do is remove the block covers that cover the coil packs and remove the 8mm bolts and remove the coil packs to gain access to the spark plugs
Answer . Unless you have super long arms it's a pain, but roll your sleeves up and you shouldn't have too much problems if you are short so cushion your knees and climb up into the engine compartment. first, you need to unbolt the fuel injector rack on each side of your head. no need to remo…ve the rack just unbolt it because your can slightly move the fuel rack around in order to insert your spark plug socket and wrench extension. please take your time doing the change out. after your fuel rack is unbolted i'd start with the front and work your way back to the firewall. of course, doesn't matter which side you start removing your plugs. just to let you know, when looking at the engine from the front, the left side of the head is numbered 1, 2, 3, 4 and the right side is numbered 5, 6, 7, 8. so lets start with plug 1. carefully unplug your #1 coil pack and unscrew the coil, then move it to the side out of the way. use a 13/16" socket adapter and a 8" extension, and perferrably a 3/8" racthet. the plug is straight down, no angle so once you have your socket in place just remove the plug. at that point go ahead and replace the old plug with a new one, making sure that the gap is correctly set. then go ahead and install your coil pack and go to plug #2. keep doing this same thing but when you come to the rear plug (plugs 4 and 8), you are probably going to have to use a 6" extension or a combination of short extension because there is less room to work with getting the plugs out. but you'll get it with a little patience. just keep on until you have completed the change out and make sure that you plug your wire connectors back into your coil packs and also remount your fuel rack. except for the sore knees, you'll find that it wasn't really that hard of a job. good luck forrest (MORE)
If you have the 2.2 liter engine, there are two (2) bolts that hold the cover on the top of the engine. These bolts will require a hex head (Allen wrench) to remove and tighten. Remove these bolts, lift the plastic cover up, and you will see the four spark plug wires leading to each spark plug. Twis…t and then pull straight up (you may have a plastic hook on each wire) to remove the wire. Then you can use a 5/8" spark plug wrench with a long (6") extension to remove and replace each spark plug. (MORE)
The plastic side panels come off with a #3 Phillips screwdriver, then the two seat hold down bolts are revealed. the front of the seat is not bolted it just slide out. when you put it back on, put some white lithium grease on the front seat attachment fork piece to eliminate rubbing/squeaking noises… (MORE)
First things first. What year, make, model, engine, and mileage? When were the spark plugs last replaced?. Short answer: Yes. They should be replaced as part of the major engine overhaul your car needs.. There should never be any oil on the spark plugs. A little carbon buildup, perhaps, but no oil…. That indicates a serious engine proble such as worn out piston rings, worn out valves and guides, or a worn out turbocharger seal. (MORE)
I had to lift the gas tank up about 4 inches then support it, or have someone help you hold it out of the way. Use only the sparkplug socket from the bikes tool kit, because any other sparkplug socket the walls are too thick to get down to the hex part of the plug. Good luck! Does anybody know the e…ngine oil capacity? I put in 3 quarts and it still looks low. Phil in Greenville (MORE)
They where made 97 & Up.. -------------------------------------------. How to Change Spark Plugs on 4.6 & 5.4 Liter. By Dave West. I've replaced plugs on quite a few 5.4Ls now (the 4.6L with plug wires is similar) and once you've done a set they really are not as bad as they look. Contrary to …what some people will say, you don't have to remove the fuel rails. The Coil on Plug (COP) assemblies will come out past the fuel rail. I take an old piece of seat foam and put it on top of the radiator support to the engine to allow me to lay on it without hurting my tummy. It makes the job way less painful.. Start by removing the cover over the throttle body (the black plastic cover that says "5.4" on it). There are three 10mm head bolts that hold it on. Next remove the air intake tube from the throttle body to the air filter housing. You loosen the hose clamps at either end of it; disconnect the connector on the AT (about half way up the air intake hose), the pull out the small hoses that go into the air intake tube near the throttle body. Next remove the brace from the power steering reservoir to thermostat housing. There are three 8mm or 5/16" head screws that hold it on. Now you should be able to see the COPs.. To remove the COPs you can use a 7mm or 9/32" wrench or nut driver or socket, extension and ratchet or all of the above. If you turn the fuel injectors to the side it will give you more room to work with the COPs. Unplug the connector on each COP by pressing the tab in and pulling on the connector. After you're done that just twist and pull the COPs out. A couple of the COPs on the driver's side and #4 on the passenger's side are a bit hard to get at but with some patience they will come out.. After you've removed the COPs take a blow gun and blow out the spark plug holes. Don't be surprised if there is rust and junk in them. Next you can actually remove the plugs. Use a combination of extensions, swivels (universal joints), sockets and ratchets to get at them. Whatever works best for you is good.. On the harder ones to get at I usually use a socket with a 4" extension, then a swivel, then a long extension, then the ratchet. The plugs are way down in the hole which is why I use the extension then the swivel. The swivel makes it easier to clear the firewall.. Set the gap on the new plugs to whatever it says on your emissions decal on the radiator support....usually .052-.056". Apply a small amount of anti-seize to the threads only on the spark plug. You can use a piece of vacuum hose or fuel hose over the end of the plug to get it started in the hole. Carefully start the plugs in their holes. If you can't get them most of the way in by hand with the hose take a look and see why not. Cross threaded plug threads are no fun! The plugs are to be tightened to 13 lb-ft. which is just hand tight with a short ratchet. Don't over tighten them! The threads in the aluminum heads have enough problems as it is. After that just put everything back together in reverse order. Apply some dielectric grease to the plug boots as well to help seal them.. I've done enough of these that I can replace the plugs in approximately 45 minutes but don't be surprised if the first time you do it takes a few hours. (MORE)
\nfind the plugs that connect to the plugs and pull them off.after that you can remove the plugs.
I'm guessing the same as most other bikes... under the gas tank.. take a look at this video. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ct31s5JNhyM. The spark plugs are located under the gas tank and under the air box. You need to remove the top and bottom of the air box and you will see the plug wires. Be s…ure to reconnect the ram air lines properly or your bike won't run properly above 50 MPH. (MORE)
if its anything like my 2000 savage, you need to remove the tank to get at the bolts that hold the chrome cover in place. Once you remove the chrome head cover, you should have pretty easy access to the spark plug.
As with all engineÃdesigns, the spark plugs are usually locatedabove the engine block on what is called the cylinder head or cam.For motorbike configurations, the engine is usually under the gastank. That would be the first place to look for the spark plug ofthe Mule.
There are two, you will need to remove the tank to reach them on top of the cylinder head cover.
In your tool kit you should have a rench that will fit on the plug. You pull off the spark plug wire and take out the spark plug. Make sure the gap is set right for the new plug and put in in. Do not over tighten.
I don't think that you need to gap the plug if you get a plug that is specific to your bike. Mine has a NGK R6252K-105 in it. I think that is the same type of plug that they come from the factory with. If you're not getting spark then you probably have a fouled plug or something else wrong.
The OEM sparkplugs are the Denso twin-ground electrode variant. They are designed to last up to 60,000 miles before needing replacement. Depending on driving conditions and maintenance history - plug life can vary considerably, most see changes anywhere from 30,000 to 60,000 miles.
Changing a spark plug on a Yamaha V Star 650 is simple. All youhave to do is take a wrench and unscrew the spark plug and thenreplace it with a new one.
remove the front cover, disconnect the turn signals wires and the two nuts that whole the gages, then down under the ignition switch and remove the two Allen screws and disconnect the wiring. install your new one ignition switch in reverse to the instructions.
The spark plug gap for a 1995 Kawasaki Ninja 500 should be setbetween .6 mm and .7 mm. This is equal to being set between .024and .028 inches.
on the left side of the bike under the seat cowl there is a recess hole where you put the ignition key and turn it to unlock the seat. if you lay on the ground and look up it's above the rear footpeg.
The spark plug gap for a 1996 Kawasaki KZ1000 P15 should be set at.032 inches. This is equal to .8 mm.
I am trying to remove my ignition switch on a 2006 Kawasaki Ninja 650r. On the bottom it has two studs that look like the end of the screw. Are these pressed in.
Just a wild guess, but I would start at the top of the heads.......should see a spark plug wire connected to a plug........viola! spark plug.
I have had my v-star for 3 years it is a 650 as well it has 2 spark plugs each one is on the top of the jug simply pull the plug wire off and remove with a spark plug wrench. They are at an odd angle but they can be taken out and replaced take special care not to get the plugs cross threaded should …go in by hand at first do not over tighten (MORE)
How do you remove the spark plug tube in a 1994 Toyota celica... I believe that the spark plug is stripped I removed the valve cover and need to remove the tube to see the spark plug...?
\nYou can TRY to use a pipe wrench, but youll damage the tubing, purchase this.\n. \nEvery celica owner should have this.\n. \nhttp://tgndirect.com/index.php?option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=26&page=shop.product_details&flypage=shop.flypage&product_id=107288&category_id=888&vmcchk=1&Itemid=31
try to look down by the motor mount, i ride a Factory YZF-450 that's wear mine is.
The 2006, Kawasaki Brute Force 650 spark plug gap is .014. Mostspark plugs come pre-gapped from the spark plug manufacturer.
What Causes of backfiring on a 2006 kawasaki brute force 650 if the battery is removed and replaced?
Water in the gas tank will for sure. bad gas will also cause this and if a snorkel has recently been installed the air to fuel ratio will be incorrect and cause backfirin
Righty tighty, lefty loosy! Of course you have to get to them first under the gas tank. Should be able to without completely removing the seat. Prop the tank up with a couple of boards under the tank on top of the frame. Should change the air filter (inside the black box right there) when you are do…ing the plugs. Remove the fairings for best access. (MORE)
How do you replace the spark plug closest to the fire wall on a 2002 Nissan Frontier. Can barely get hand in there and difficult to remove spark plug wire.?
Use a 10" extension on your spark plug, and dro pit over the plug by hand. You can reach it from the passenger side.. Put a u-joint on the end of the extension; it will be right up against the firewall. You can get to it with another extension and the ratchet from there.. When you re-install it's …the same thing. Put the plug in the socket with the 10" extension and start it by hand. Once it's in fingertight, put the ujoint and the other extension on it.. Because the plugs are down in a deep hole and you can't really see, I suggest cleaning the engine and blowing those out with compressed air before you try to pull the plugs. Get as much sand and muck out as possible so you don't get it in the cylinder, or get grit in the threads before reinstalling. (MORE)
How to Change Spark Plugs on 4.6 & 5.4 Liter. By Dave West. I've replaced plugs on quite a few 5.4Ls now (the 4.6L with plug wires is similar) and once you've done a set they really are not as bad as they look. Contrary to what some people will say, you don't have to remove the fuel rails. The C…oil on Plug (COP) assemblies will come out past the fuel rail. I take an old piece of seat foam and put it on top of the radiator support to the engine to allow me to lay on it without hurting my tummy. It makes the job way less painful.. Start by removing the cover over the throttle body (the black plastic cover that says "5.4" on it). There are three 10mm head bolts that hold it on. Next remove the air intake tube from the throttle body to the air filter housing. You loosen the hose clamps at either end of it; disconnect the connector on the AT (about half way up the air intake hose), the pull out the small hoses that go into the air intake tube near the throttle body. Next remove the brace from the power steering reservoir to thermostat housing. There are three 8mm or 5/16" head screws that hold it on. Now you should be able to see the COPs.. To remove the COPs you can use a 7mm or 9/32" wrench or nut driver or socket, extension and ratchet or all of the above. If you turn the fuel injectors to the side it will give you more room to work with the COPs. Unplug the connector on each COP by pressing the tab in and pulling on the connector. After you're done that just twist and pull the COPs out. A couple of the COPs on the driver's side and #4 on the passenger's side are a bit hard to get at but with some patience they will come out.. After you've removed the COPs take a blow gun and blow out the spark plug holes. Don't be surprised if there is rust and junk in them. Next you can actually remove the plugs. Use a combination of extensions, swivels (universal joints), sockets and ratchets to get at them. Whatever works best for you is good.. On the harder ones to get at I usually use a socket with a 4" extension, then a swivel, then a long extension, then the ratchet. The plugs are way down in the hole which is why I use the extension then the swivel. The swivel makes it easier to clear the firewall.. Set the gap on the new plugs to whatever it says on your emissions decal on the radiator support....usually .052-.056". Apply a small amount of anti-seize to the threads only on the spark plug. You can use a piece of vacuum hose or fuel hose over the end of the plug to get it started in the hole. Carefully start the plugs in their holes. If you can't get them most of the way in by hand with the hose take a look and see why not. Cross threaded plug threads are no fun! The plugs are to be tightened to 13 lb-ft. which is just hand tight with a short ratchet. Don't over tighten them! The threads in the aluminum heads have enough problems as it is. After that just put everything back together in reverse order. Apply some dielectric grease to the plug boots as well to help seal them.. I've done enough of these that I can replace the plugs in approximately 45 minutes but don't be surprised if the first time you do it takes a few hours. (MORE)
Guide to changing the spark plugs for novices (like me) . I just replaced the sparks on my 2001 12R - I'd previously read alot about some people finding it easy and others finding it impossible. I didn't think it was easy, but then again I'm only capable of relatively easy stuff on my 12R (ie oil c…hange, filter clean, pilot jet mot, brake service etc etc). I thought I'd put together this little guide for novices like me that want to attempt it. In all, it took me about 30 minutes per spark. I didn't mess about - I removed the fairing, ram air covers, tank cover, seats and coolant expansion tank. It can be done without removing some of these, but it will be alot easier if you just get them out of your way. The expansion tank can just be unscrewed and left to dangle on the pipes. Don't bother removing it completely. First of all, you will need the special angled tool from the 12R's tool kit. The idea behind this tool is that the bigger end goes down the spark plug tube and locks onto the spark plug, whilst the smaller end is for a spanner or socket set to lock onto. It has to bend in the middle to enable you to get it into the spark tube as the clearance above is not enough to get it in otherwise. Look into the bigger end of the tool and you will see a rubber washer that grips onto the spark plug once it has been unscrewed (else you'd never actually get it out of the tube). Second, obviously get hold of the spark plugs first before attempting the job - I've read conflicting reports about which spark plugs are the correct ones. I still don't know what's right and what's wrong, but I am going to tell you what I found out. First of all, I got hold of the NGK CR9EK sparks as referred to in the manual but was surprised when they looked a little different from the sparks that were already in the bike - the difference was at the top of the spark plug where it latches onto the stick coil and consequently, the stick coil wouldn't fit on properly. Someone else suggested that the CR9EIX were the way to go and I was relieved to find that these had the same upper connection as my existing sparks. You can see the difference between the two at the following internet locations NGK.com - Application Search Results andCR9EKB - NGK PLUGS "C" by chi town choppers , inc . The CR9EIX sparks work like a charm in my bike, but I suspect they have a smaller lifespan because they are not multiground sparks like the ones that came out (I guess that this lenghtens the life of the gap, but I'm not really sure). In summary, I can tell you that the CR9EIX work great in my bike and fit inside the Denso stick coils very securely - but I can't tell you how long they will continue to work for so you might want to check it out a bit more yourself. As some people have said, removing the plastic and rubber covers will make your life easier to get the job done, but I'd recommend you leave them there because they are effectively stopping dirt, moisture and other sh*t getting down the side of the stick coil where it will end up in the top of your engine the minute you take the spark plug out. I noticed moisture on the side of one of my stick coils and (more concerningly) some oil on another (that's a differnent story). OK, so on with the procedure. Looking in at the top of the engine you will see the top of the stick coils coming out of the top. These stick coils have 'Denso" written on the top of them. Before doing anything else, you'll have to pull the 2-wire connector off of the side. It has a little plastic locking tooth on it so you have to press down on the tooth whilst pushing the connector towards the back of the bike. Mine were relatively easy to get off, but I found a small flat blade screw driver made things easier - it was possible to use the screwdriver to press down on the release catch at the same time as pushing it backwards and off. After this you need to get the coil sticks out - the is the single hardest thing to do in this job (at least it was with my bike). Some people have reported that their coil sticks came off easy, well I can tell you that mine were stuck on like a bitch. I'm a little suspicious that some of the folks that can get their stick coils off easy are using the sparks with the different interface type (as described above) which means that the denso stick coils just sit on top of it, rather than gripping on to it. I imagine this will work fine as these high voltages don't need a perfect electrical connection to work - but, I just prefer a solid mechanical connection as the basis of a good, reliable electrical connection. The key to getting the stick coils off is to use a large flat blade screw driver and put it under the connector seat (towards the back of the bike) that sticks out of the side of the coil and then twist the flat-blade to pop the coil off. When you pop off the first coil you instantly realise from the force required that there was no way you were ever going to do it by hand like other people have said they do (like I say, this might be down to the different types of spark plug top). One thing that I noticed is that the plastic cover for the rubber mat has a neat-feature - a little channel under it that allows you to get a flat-blade screwdriver to the middle sparks by putting the screw driver under the piece of the plastic cover that sits in-between the middle and outer sparks (on both sides). After that, you can wrestle out the stick coil. If you do the ones at the outside first you will see how long the stick coil actually is (about 12 cm by memory). The last 4 to 5 CM is rubber and can bend, which is a godsend when you do the ones in the middle (if it was 12cm of plastic, it simply wouldn't be able to come out). OK, the most difficult bit is done. Using the angled tool, you put it into the spark tube and push it as far down as you can by hand. Start turning it anti-clockwise by hand until it locks in position - thus the tool is located. You can then use a wrench or socket set to loosen the first part of the spark off (it shouldn't take much force if the person who installed the sparks used the correct torque). You should then be able to unscrew the rest of it by hand (depending on the size of your hands!). After many, many turns you'll eventually notice it suddenly becomes easier because the spark has come out of the threads. You then pull the tool out and hey presto, there's the spark being held by the tool's rubber washer. Replacement is just the reverse, but it's a good idea to add a little grease to the spark threads before putting them in and spray the stick coil outers with a silicone grease or WD40 before putting them back in the spark tube. The two outer sparks are obviously easier than the inner ones - but you have to wrestle with everything throughout the entire job because it is just so tight. This is why it takes so long. I'm no idiot, but I also am not capable of doing complex stuff on a bike. For my level of expertise, this was a reasonably difficult job the first time around. Like everything though, having done it once I think I would find it quite easy the next time I do it. Hope this helps someone,. (MORE)
Remove seat. Remove 2 bolts holding gas tank. Lift gas tank and move to right far enough to remove bolts on left side cover to access spark plug.
The "V" in "V-Star" specifically means V-twin. (All these bikes are V-Twins.) This is the cylinder configuration of the engine (The cylinders form a V shape). Most models of bike whos names begin with V have engines of this type. Some have four cylinders (V-Four), others have two (V-Twin). VFR and V…TR for example.. Since only one spark plug is necessary per cylinder, a V-Twin (having two cylinders) only has two spark plugs. A V-Four, on the other hand, has four.. Similarly, V-6 and V-8 engines have 6 and 8 cylinders / spark plugs respectively. Any engine will have the same number of spark plugs as it has cylinders. (MORE)
2007 Hyundai Sonata Dealer told you when the spark plugs need to be changed the manifold has to be removed to do this?
My car 2007 is a four cylinder Hyundai sonata Is there any truth to what the service manager said about having to remove the manifold to change the spark plugs?
\nThe Nissan frontier would most likely have their spark plugs down deeper into separate chambers. If it is anything like new ford model trucks you have to locate the wires covering them, about an 8 in extention and a 5/8 in spark plug socket.
According to the Ford Maintenance Schedule, under "Normal" conditions, change the plugs at 100,000 miles. Under less than normal - excessive idlling or primarily driving at low speeds like a taxi, 60,000 miles is the recommended plug replacement interval. See "Related Questions" below for more
It is on the front left side of the frame just below the front left axle shaft.
i need spark plug gap for my 09 TYREX IF COULD HELP ME OUT PLEASE
No, unless someone modified yours to be a premix but if yors is stock you put the fuel in the part that says fuel and you put the oil in the part that says oil
it depends on the number of cylinders.. if 2 cylinders it has 2 spark plugs if 4 then it has 4.
They come from the factory with platnium plugs. The factory recomends changing every 100,000 miles
On the 3.0L the air cleaner box is in the way. Other than that allyou have to remove is the plug wires.
My 2005 KLR 650 is bone stock and tops out at 95, my weight is 185lbs. Hope this helps
No, they don't necessarily have to be replaced. However it is usually a good idea to replace the wires along with the spark plugs. As the wires age and go through heating cooling cycles they get stiff and brittle. As you flex the wires to remove them from the spark plugs the inner conductor often …breaks causing a misfire. Also when you pull the spark plug boots off of the spark plugs the connector often can break loose and stay on the spark plug, thus ruining the wire. (MORE)
Depends on how many miles are on them, at the very least, check gaps & appearance.
Once can find parts for a Kawasaki KLR 650 from a number of different locations. Once can try their local Kawasaki dealership, a motorcycle parts store, or sites such as eBay.
To replace the rear spark plugs of a 2007 Arcadia, you will need to lift the car and replace the spark plugs from the bottom. You will also need to lower the front cradle for proper installation. This will allow easy access to remove and replace the spark plugs.
One can purchase a second hand KLR 650 from many auto vendors, such as 'Motorcyclinstonline' and on eBay. It is also worth a try to visit one's local auto dealer store and request for help from an expertise.