What size aux heat do you need for heat pump?
An average 3 ton heat pump on a 1200 to 1500 sq ft home in California will typically have a 1500Watt (1.5KW) to 5000 Watt (5 KW) auxiliary heat kit installed. This is not just for emergency heat in case of compressor failure or too low of an ambient temperature to operate a heat pump efficiently, but also to temper the air going into the home while a heat pump defrosts. Since the defrost mode is the AC mode with the outside fan motor of the air going indoors will be refrigerated, this is why the heat strip wil be used to temper the air to avoid having to bring the room back up to where it was when defrost began.
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You need 1 ton of cooling for every 400 square feet. This means 5 1/2 tons, but you would be best off with a 5 ton unit. a slightly undersized unit will run for longer periods of time compared to the 5 1/2 ton unit, but it will be a more efficient system. The less starts and stops will also reduce… the wear and tear on your compressor, which will result in a longer compressor lifespan. (MORE)
Answer . I just did extensive research before having a new heat pump put on my house. consumer reports and various books at the library said square footage is not the best or the most acccurate way to figure sizing the unit. there is a manual J that a.c.companys should use and also computer soft…ware one can purchase online to size it yourself. everything i read stressed that most a/c companys install units larger than needed and indeed all the companys that gave me estimates simply asked my square footage and took my word about it and then told me the tonnage i needed based on my numbers and eyeballing the existing unit. they all came up with a minimum size of 4 and up to a five ton unit! my research told me that the max size i really needed was 2.5 to 3 tons. long story short my house is 1200 sq ft minimum and i bought a 3 ton unit with a seer rating of 13[ the higher the seer rating the more efficient, but with the higher rating is more complicated repairs more often according to consumer reports]. my old unit was plenty big enough for my house and when they put the 3 ton on it dwarfed my old unit. point being that even at 3 tons i probably bought bigger than needed. back to your question. buy no bigger than 3 ton and a 2 1/2 ton will probably do. get one with a seer factor of 13 no more no less. buy a good brand such as my lennox and lastly dont let them bullcrap you into anything bigger or extended warrantys. get the longest warrantees and estimates from at least 4 to 5 companys.and then make them give you their best price and dont be afraid to play one against another. my original estimate started at almost 7 grand and the one i chose was 5 grand even and came with with a programmable thermostat. dont pay more than 5 grand & shoot for less. dont budge when they try to steer you and they will try!!! let me know how you come out! (MORE)
I do not know of any jurisdiction in which a license would berequired for a heat pump.
Yes a heat pump reverses the function of an air conditioner. Like any refrigerant system if a Technician says "it needs Freon", make sure the leak is repaired first.
There are various factors which go into determining what size heatpump you need for a space. As a rule however, am 1100 sq ft housetypically requires around a 3 ton unit.
Contrary to popular belief, the required BTU output, or "tonnage", cannot be calculated based on square footage. Many factors go into determining the required BTU output to compensate for your home's heat loss/gain. A properly trained HVAC technician has the ability to calculate the required heat lo…ad for your home based on where you live, the materials your home is built with, the "r" value of your insulation, window type/size/quality/quantity, and even which direction each exterior wall faces. Many "old school" technicians say 500sqft per ton, but with today's strict building codes and better insulation, this rule of thumb no longer applies. In most cases, the old rule will cause you to oversize your system, resulting in big problems down the road, i.e., high humidity, mold, mildew, etc. (MORE)
2 ton unit or smaller. if it's a modern home (modern insulation standards) and you are not an old person who likes is 76F all the time, a 2 ton would be plenty IMO.
The rule of thumb is 2-1/2 tons per 1000 square feet.
By the cooling load of the home only.
buy a window, thru the wall, or portable unit. you can size it wherever you buy it. they will have a chart of some sort to size it for you.
A 4 ton heat pump should be fine, depends on how well your house is insulated. If the house is well insulated you might be fine with a smaller unit.
No you don't but it is more efficient in Florida cause of the heating you would only use it like 3 to 4 months out of the year..
My 3 ton geo unit uses a 30 amp breaker. That is probably more than adequate because it also is for the vertical loop pumps in the ground. The back-up heat strips however, use a 60 amp breaker (on my system.) I'm not sure but I would say yours probably needs that too. Good luck!
A commonly used formula is 600-650 square feet per ton. So it wouldbe recommended to use a 2-ton heat pump for a 1300 square foothome. However, other variables are often considered, too, such asthe age of the house.
Decide how warm you want your pool water to be. Most people prefer a temperature in the high 70s or low 80s (Fahrenheit), but your individual taste may vary. . Step 2. Determine the average temperature during the coldest month you wish to use the pool. You can usually do a quick estimation based o…n your own experiences, but if you want formal numbers, check the National Weather Service for average temperatures in your area. . Step 3. Subtract the ideal temperature of the pool water from the average outside monthly temperature. The result is the number of degrees Fahrenheit your heater will need to warm the pool in order to make it comfortable. . Step 4. Calculate the surface area of your pool. If you have a rectangular pool, this is easy: simply multiply the pool's length by its width. If your pool has a more unusual shape, apply the formula provided at PoolBright.com (see Resources, below). . Step 5. Multiply the surface area from Step 4 by the required elevation in pool temperature from Step 3. Then multiply the results by 11. That figure is the number of British Thermal Units per hour (btu/hr.) your heater will need to produce in order to adequately heat your pool. (MORE)
25 cubic feet
Yes, the heat pump (in the heating mode) is like an air conditioner in reverse. It cools the outside air and heats the room air. Of course, you need Freon to do this heat-transfer process.
Check your owners manual for details.
You need to first work out your heat load for the house which depends on lots of factors. (Insulation, exposure, window area etc.). Since most heat pumps give an efficiency ratio of no more than 4 to 1. This means for every kilowatt of electricity you burn driving the pump you will get 4 kilowatts o…f heat. So if you think you can heat your house with 12 kilowatts of electric fires then you heat it with a 4 or 5 kilowatt heat pump. The trick with heat pumps is to find a good source of low grade heat that is still there in the winter. Ground coils, bore holes , streams, even pools, are all better than air to air systems because when you need most heat the air outside is coldest. (MORE)
The size of the heat pump is not the true question in this case. Most, if not all produce enough btu to heat a pool that size. The true question on a heatpump is how long. The larger the btu rating of the heatpump... the faster the pool water will reach desired temp. Heatpumps should only be used… to maintain heat in a pool. The most inefficient way to use a heatpump is to try and raise the pool temp a large temperature differintial at any given time. This type of "on demand" heat will create a scenario where the heatpump runs continuous at its highest capacity until desired temp is obtained, and the highest setting of "heat" on a heatpump is its most inefficient usage of energy. This type of energy usage is only an acceptable practice early in the spring when attempting to raise the pool temp for the first time that anual season. The recommended use for a heatpump is to set the swim temp and allow the heat pump to maintain the temp to extend the swim-ability of the pool one to two months early in the spring and late in the fall. Maintaining the pool temp is a much more efficient use of energy than trying to use a heatpump to create "on demand" heat. (MORE)
usually around 400sq. ft room give or take