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Where is the blend door on a Ford Ranger?
The blend door sits vertically in the heater box behind the glove box. If you fully open the glove box, you can see the actuator motor on top of the heater box in the upper left hand corner. On the bottom of the box is a "pedestal" that is the bottom axle point for the blend door. The door axis is between the motor axle and the pedestal.
If you are having issues with a Ford Ranger blend door, you can find diagnostic procedures with pictures and a cheap easy solution to the problem at HeaterTreater www.heatertreater.net, or follow the Google ads on this site.
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The Expedition uses the same heater box as the F150 and Lincoln Navigator. The blend door acutator motor is located on the bottom of the box and the blend door turns on a vert…ical axis. The most common failure for these cars is for the plastic connection on the blend door to motor to break. It is very common to remove the blend door motor and have a handful of black plastic pieces fall out. This is a sure diagnostic of a broken blend door. The motor on the Expedition is located above the transmission tunnel. To get to the motor you will have to remove the center console. You will see a black plastic vent under the box. This is for air distribution to the passenger and drivers side floor boards. The acutator is just above this vent and the vent has to be removed to get to it. The Expedition was not designed for repairing this problem and the Dealer process is to remove the steering wheel, steering collumn, complete dash panel, evacuate the AC, drain the radiator, and finally remove the heater box to get to the actuator and blend door. For us cheap guys, the bottom vent can be removed with enough force and creativity. You may have to cut it with a dremel tool to remove it. This is not a structural or high pressure vent, so it can easily be repaired with metal duct tape and is completely hidden when you replace it. You can also reconnect the motor and see if it is working properly. Once you get the the motor, it is easy to remove the screws and pull it straight down. Look for broken pieces and/or examine the connector with a mirror for signs of cracks. You can manually turn the blend door with a flat piece of bent metal and switch from AC to heat to see if the door is working properly or hanging. If the door is broken, you have two options. Take it to the dealer and have them go through the process above and replace the door with another plastic door that will also break over time, or check the HeaterTreater fix on Ebay. This replaces the door with metal and the fix is done through the glove box opening without the 12hrs labor to remove the dash.
"Blend door stuck and clicks on your 2004 Ford Explorer?" FIRST BUY OEM BLEND DOOR MOTOR $57.00 + UP TOOLS NEEDED : PANEL TOOL OR FLAT BLADE SCREWDRIVER ,1/4 SOCETS 7 & 8MM … ....1/4 HANDLE...1/4 SMALL EXTENTION...1/4 RATCHET NO NEED TO REMOVE WHOLE DASHBOARD!!! REMOVE TWO7MM SCREWS FROM THE BOTTOM OF STEERING PANEL & PRY AND REMOVE PANEL. NEXT REMOVE TWO 7MM SCREWS ON BLACK PLASTIC STRIP THAT YOU SEE AFTER REMOVING STEERING PANEL....PRY THIS STRIP OF PLASTIC OUT JUST A LITTLE AND CUT IN THE MIDDLE . NEXT REMOVE TWO 7MM SCREWS FROM AROUND TOP OF INSTRUMENT PANEL (BY GAUGES ) PRY PANEL STARTING FROM AROUND VENT ON LEFT BY DRIVERS DOOR ""THIS PANEL WILL STAY IN PLACE LOOSE... NO NEED TO REMOVE!"" NEXT YOU WILL SEE 0NE 7MM SCREW BY GEAR SELECTOR AREA.. BEHIND THE LOOSE PANEL REMOVE THIS SCREW.. ALSO IN SAME AREA BUT LOWER THERE IS ONE 7MM SCREW THAT NEEDS TO BE REMOVED THAT HOLDS LOWER DASH PAD ITS FOUND BEHIND LOWER CORNER OF DASH PAD.( LOWER DASH PAD GAS PEDAL AREA ) "DON'T"!!! REMOVE THE FOUR 10MM BOLTS!!!! IN SAME AREA NEXT REMOVE RADIO /AC CONTROL TRIM WITH THIN SCREW DRIVER OR PANEL TOOL IT HELD IN BY SIX CLIPS...NO NEED TO DISCONNET ANYTHING IT WILL STAY THERE HANGING!! NEXT REMOVE TWO CENTER CONSOLE LOWER LARGE PLASTIC CLIPS BY FLOOR MATS. NEXT UNDER SQUARE BLACK RUBBER AT CENTER CONSOLE REMOVE ONE SILVER SCREW. MOVE SEATS FOWARD AND REMOVE TWO 8MM SCREWS FROM SIDES OF CENTER CONSOLE FROM BACK SEAT. PRY CUP PANEL SECTION THAT WAS HELD DOWN BY SILVER SCREW ...PRY UP TOP HALF OF CONSOLE STARTING FROM SECTION WHERE ARMREST DOOR IS.. DISCONNECT LIGHTER PLUG AND REMOVE PANEL . NOW YOU WILL SEE SIX SCREWS STARTING FROM BELOW RADIO TRIM WORKING BACK TO ARMREST DOOR .REMOVE ALL SIX..THESE HOLD THE BOTTOM PORTION OF THE CONSOLE ALSO DISCONNET ONE BLACK PLUG AND PULL ALL THE WIRES CLIPPED DOWN...PULL BOTTOM PORTION OF CONSOLE TO BACK SEAT. PULL LOWER DASH PAD GIVE A NICE TUG.. IT SHOULD MOVE OUT A LITTLE ..DID YOU REMEMBER ONE SCREW BEHIND CORNER DASH..!.STARTING FROM AREA BY GAS PEDAL LOOK UP IN THIS AREA YOU WILL HAVE ENOUGH ROOM TO GET A LONG EXTENTION WITH AN 8MM SOCKET TO REMOVE 3 SCREWS HOLDING MOTOR TO BLACK PLASTIC SECTION.. REMOVE SCREWS DISCONNECT SMALL BLACK PLUG AND PULL MOTOR FROM SOCKET GOING TOWARD DRIVERS DOOR DIRECTION. ALIGN NEW MOTOR SHAFT WITH SOCKET TIP.......IF NEED BE..... YOU COULD PLUG MOTOR HARNESS INTO NEW MOTOR THEN TURN IGNITION ON AND MOVE HEATER/AC CONTROLS TO GET THE SHAFT LINED UP..DONT MOVE ANY OTHER WAY!!!!!! NOW PUT SHAFT INTO SOCKET MAKE SURE YOU CONNECTED THE PLUG IF YOU HAVEN'T ALREADY!! INSTALL 8MM SCREWS AND TRY IT OUT YOU SHOULD HAVE HEAT NOW NOW INSTALL EVERTHING BACK IN REVERSE ORDER TOTAL TIME 45 MINUTES YOU JUST SAVED $350-$500 IN DEALER PRICES!!! DEALER 2.5 HOUR JOB! PLUS PART
Answer Remove the squirrel cage from the carrier in the engine compartment. You can reach in and feel it. Those were prone to break on rangers and explorers (Don't chan…ge from dash, floor, defrost etc. with the fan on high). If you take it to a dealership the will charge you 5.5 hours to change it. If you feel brave you can change it with a crow bar though said squirrel cage opening. prying up and sliding new blend door in place. You have to purchase a new carrier to get the blend door. This is the hard way. The easy way is the HeaterTreater kit at www.heatertreater.net or you can check my other postings on this forum for additional information. cgallen
By Jeff Frank First you have to remove the glove box to gain access to the plenum. Next, remove the actuator from the box. The actuator is a flat white box that s…its on 4 clip posts on the top-left of the plenum. It has a wire harness coming out of it. To remove it take a flat screw driver and pry up the front first then put the screw driver under and towards the back to pop up the back. You will see a white pin coming out of the bottom of the actuator. The pin is "D" shaped. Turn the ignition on and move the heat control and you should see the pin rotate. If not, the actuator is bad or the terminals are corroded. If it does move, set the control to full heat and turn the blower on high. This will force the blend door into the heat position (it is very important to do this). Take a small dentist mirror and a flashlight and look into the top of the box where the actuator pin goes in. You should see that the chamber is half missing. It should look like the drawing below: I think they all break in the same spot. Mine was in the position as the one above. Remember you are looking through a mirror so it is a little difficult to determine the exact position. If yours looks like mine did drill your actuator pin in the same place I did. If not, try and gauge where yours will need to go. I had to drill mine four times before I got the right position. I drilled mine with a very small drill bit. If you are looking at the pin from it's bottom, this is where it should be drilled: (drill about 1/2 inch from the bottom) After drilling the actuator pin hole, you will need something to put through it. I used an old drill bit that was the same size as the hole. Just cut it to length (you will want a little more than 1/8th inch on either side of the pin). Put the rod through the pin (it should be snug so that it doesn't fall out). Then try snapping the actuator back on the box. If the pin won't go in fully the rod might be in the wrong place. Try turning the blower on high again to make sure the door didn't move and try again. If it still won't go in you will have to re-drill the hole. If it does go in, try the heat controls. If they work, congratualtions! Now take the actuator back out and glue the rod in place and put the actuator back on. You just saved yourself $1000. If only the cold or heat works, then either the rod is in the wrong position and will need to be re-drilled, or the door itself is also broken.
There is a fix for broken blend doors being marketed. It avoids having to remove much of the dashboard and disconnecting the a/c system. I haven't done it, but the concept… looks good - and there are a number of videos showing how their repair works. heatertreater.net Answer The very common problem of a failed blend door actuator is extensively covered in the "Related Question" below. There is a blend door repair method at the Automotive Forums Windstar section. The heater core has to come out and some cutting of the 'plenum' around the door. The thread I've linked below includes a number of photos and heating/cooling diagrams. TIP: "Right-click, save" the images to be able to get nice clear printouts of them. The thread is a little short on the step 1, step 2, type detail, but will continue searching for other threads that may have it. An excellent start, and certainly helps you get an idea of exactly what you're dealing with. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- History and Root Cause of Blend Door Failures On earlier automobiles there was generally a slide lever on the HVAC control panel(remember?). This slide lever was connected by a cable to the blend door and you had the control to slide the lever to full heat, full AC, or anything in between. Â In the 90's most automobile manufacturers moved from manual blend door control to mechanized computer control. Generically, the HVAC system operates by providing air flow that can be directed through the AC evaporator and the Heater Core. The AC evaporator is cooled by the engine driven compressor and a flow of refrigerant, and the Heater Core is heated by a flow of hot radiator fluid through the core. The air flow is usually directed through the evaporator core and to the blend door where the air can be directed down two different paths to the vent system. One path goes directly to the vents, and the other path is directed through the heater core. For AC, the compressor is on and air is directed by the blend door directly into the vent system. For heat, the compressor is off and air is diverted through the heater core. These are the two extremes, and the system can split the amount of air flowing down the two paths and control on/off of the compressor to achieve any desired temperature between the two extremes. When the blend door fails, control over which path the air flow takes is lost and dependent on the design of the system and where the broken door falls, you will lose heat, AC, or both. When the manufacturers went to electronic control, different variations of a stepper motor were deployed to provide fine control over the position of the blend door. Some have variable resistance sensors built into the motor, or time measurements to gauge how long to run the motor to get to a desired position, or counting commutator clicks. Independent of the method used for fine control, the methodology requires that the system "knows" the extents of movement. The system has to measure where the door stops against the two end points of movement. The computer does this by driving the motor to a stall point and measuring a voltage surge or lack of change in the position monitor input. The DC motors are geared to move slowly with a great deal of force. The root cause of most blend door problems is the over-stress of this calibration process, and the plastic doors break over time like bending a coat hanger back and forth. The computer system generally goes through this calibration routine every 20 times that the car is started. Time-to-failure is not a traditional mileage, age, or driving habit function, but just how many times the car is started. A pizza delivery guy that stops the car for each delivery will fail much faster than someone commuting to work once a day. Automobiles were not built with this failure mechanism in mind and generally the process of replacing the blend door is involved and expensive. The usual dealer fix is to remove the steering column, pull the dash panel, evacuate and disconnect the AC system, drain and disconnect the radiator, and then remove the HVAC plenum(heater box). Once the box is out, it's fairly simple to open it and replace the cheap plastic door, and then put the whole thing back together hoping you don't screw up something else. HeaterTreater TM has developed processes for replacing the blend door without having to remove the dash and heater box. Cuts are made into the box in non visible areas with a Dremel tool, and the blend door is replaced with precision machined metal components. The process results in an easy, cheap fix and replacement components that are designed to outlast the automobile(much stronger than OEM plastic). To date, thousands of our HeaterTreater rm repair kits have been installed in multiple different models with 100% installation success and correct operation. We are intent on maintaining superior customer service and would appreciate your consideration of our products. Actually removing the temperature blend door is a very involved procedure. Reference a repair manual: Library (free)Buy one - about $18On-line resources - Autozone.com has a FREE and awesome online repair guide
open glove box drop down door, look thru hole to the left and up Actually, the actuator motor on the Expedition/Navigator is located on the bottom of the heater box above th…e transmission tunnel. You have to remove the console and various trim pieces to get to it. Check the information on www.heatertreater.net for pictures and diagnostic information. I have also posted information on this forum that will help answer questions about the Expedition. cgallen Actually the 2003 model has a different dash layout and heaterTreater only has info on the 97 thru 2002 models. I contacted them and they said they will have diagnostic info and products for the 2003 and later models sometime in spring 2010. -dstaker The actuator is on top of the heater box. I am in the process of replacing it now, on my 2003 Expedition 5.4L and am finding it to be quite involved! so far I have the middle console out, the glove box out, and some of the dash off. I found that there is a cross beam for the dash frame that is in the way. That is as far as I have gotten. Good luck to those attempting this! cbeh
Start with removing the actuator motor. (See "Related Questions" below) With the actuator out, operate the temperature adjusting control and watch the motor to see i…f it is moving. NOTE: Movement alone does not guarantee that the gear teeth inside are not broken. Next, using a small screw-driver, or similar, try and operate the blend door itself. It should move freely and easily. Any binding is a bad bad problem. Hopefully your problem will be the actuator and not the door! See "Related Questions" below for more
Generally the problem is with a broken blend door, not a bad actuator motor. A solution is available at www.heatertreater.net and additional information can be found by …checking my other posts on this forum. cgallen
Answer Remove glove compartment box on passenger side, u should see the actuator its white box with wire harness in front gots four SCREWS(TORX) just remove and replace… or to troubleshoot just turn heater and blower on high make sure harness is attached make sure its turning.hope it help a lil bit Check out this step by step process for replacing the heater core that provides great diagrams and information that will help: https://www.queegebo.com/content/view/31/27/
Typically to fix a broken blend door, a mechanic will disassemble the entire dash, and replace the plenum box. Unfortunately this is an expensive fix because it is labor and p…arts intensive. There is a DIY solution called heatertreater. They provide instructions on how to access the blend door by removing the glove box, and replacing the blend door without removing the dash and plenum assembly. Broken blend doors are a common problem among Ford Explorers, and most heating and A/C issues in late model Ford explorers and Expeditions are directly caused by a malfunctioning blend door. Read more: http://wiki.answers.com/Q/2004_ford_explorer_heater_problems_clikcing_noise#ixzz1dTFTbrbp- Heater blend door fix http://www.blenddoorfix.netfirms.com/ You can also try look here: - http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/192261-99-eddie-bauer-expedition-blend-door-fix.html The heater core is difficult to change on the Ford trucks. They have it buried in the plenum box and you have to remove the steering wheel, steering column, dash, evacuate the refrigerant system, drain the radiator, and remove the plenum box to get to the core. Replacing the core is easy, getting to it is a day's work. The Expedition is particularly difficult to get to. It is almost above the transmission tunnel and well buried behind the dash. The Expedition uses the same plenum box as the F150, so any information on that system applies to the Expedition/Navigator. You need to be sure that the heater core is really the problem before tackling this job. If you have a pool of coolant on the floor, you'll have to go after the core. If the problem is lack of heat, there are some things you need to eliminate before tearing into the truck. You need to make sure that coolant is flowing through the core. Check the temperature of the heater hoses going into the firewall when the engine is cool and see if they warm up together as the engine warms up. If both hoses get hot at about the same rate, this is a good indication that coolant is flowing through the core. You can also remove the hoses and flush the core with a water hose splice from Home Depot and a water hose. Water should flow unobstructed through the core. If it appears that coolant is flowing and you don't have obvious leaks, the next step is to check the blend door. This door controls the air flow through the heater core and failure is common on Ford trucks. When the door breaks, it can block the flow of air through the core and kill heat and will also have an impact on AC. If the system seems to work intermittently, it's a good indication that the door is broken and rattling around randomly blocking or opening the passage to the core. For diagnostic information on how to check the operation of the blend door and a cheap easy fix, check the heatertreater listing on Ebay or the web site at heatertreater.net. The dealer fix for the blend door is basically the same procedure for replacing the heater core, so it will be expensive. The HeaterTreater alternative will solve the problem at a fraction of the cost and work and is well within the capability of the average shade tree mechanic.That is why Aluminum blend doors, recirculation doors and modes doors would be preferred over the plastic OEM blend doors.
The factory method requires removal of the dash and heater box to replace the plastic door with another plastic door. HeaterTreater has a new product to repair the 02-…08 Explorer without removing the dash, and replacing the door with metal that will outlast the Explorer. Check HeaterTreater.net.
Blend Door Problem Your problem sounds like the common blend door problem on the Ford Expeditions, and Ford Explorer. The door is on a vertical axis and …when it breaks, it can swing back and forth randomly giving heat or AC or nothing. The difference on acceleration is the force placed on the door swinging it one direction. You can check the operation by fully opening the glove box, removing the actuator motor on top of the plenum box and examining the blend door axle. Pictures of the common fail signature are available on the heatertreater.net web site. There are several "free" fixes that mostly are worth what you pay for them. The solution on the web site is solid and proven over hundreds of vehicles and will resolve the problem once and for all.
FORD BLEND DOOR FIX (EXPLORER, RANGER, EXPEDITION) If your climate control only has two settings: HEAT and MAX A/C then the chances are this fix will work for you. The fix wa…s originally developed by FTE member jfranks � YOU RULE! I paraphrased the blend door fix from jfrank and added some digital pictures I took when I completed the fix on my 1996 Explorer. His original fix document is available here: jfrank's blend door fix Step 1: Remove the glove box to gain access to the plenum. There is a release on the left hand side of the glove box. Step 2: Locate the actuator. The actuator is a flat white box that sits on 4 clip posts on the top left of the plenum. It has a wiring harness coming out of the front. Step 3: Remove the actuator. Use a flat head screwdriver to pry up the actuator. Pry up the front first and then put the screwdriver under it to pop up the back. (Note: I unplugged the wiring harness when I removed mine. If you also unplugged the wiring harness you will need to plug it back in before doing step 4). Step 4: On the bottom of the actuator there is a �D� shaped pin. Turn on the ignition and move the heater control on the dash. You should see the pin rotate (wiring harness must be attached!). If the pin does not rotate then you have a different problem (bad actuator, terminals corroded, etc). If the actuator does move, set the heater control to full heat and turn the blower on high. THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT. It moves the actuator to the correct position for the fix. Actuator "D" shaped pin. Step 5: Using a small dentist mirror and flashlight, look into the top of the box where the actuator pin goes. You should see that the chamber is half missing. It should look similar to the drawing below: Step 6: They all break roughly in the same spot. If it looks like the drawing above then drill a hole (I used a 1/16 in drill bit) in the actuator pin in the location in the drawing below: Step 7: After drilling the hole insert a metal rod. I used a cut down finishing nail. Others have used a cut down drill bit. Be sure to have about 1/8 in on either side of the pin. Be sure it is snug in the hole. Close up of fix. Drilled out with 1/16 in drill bit and cut down finishing nail. Close up of fix - side view. Step 8: Snap the actuator back on the box. If the pin won�t go in fully then the rod may be in the wrong place. Remove the rod and re-drill the hole. Reinsert the rod in the new hole and try it again. You may need repeat this step several times until the actuator fits. Step 9: Once the actuator fits back in the box, try the heat controls. Go from heat to cool. If the temperature changes, Congratulations! You just saved yourself $1000! Step 10: (Optional) Take the actuator back out and put a spot of glue on the rod to keep it firmly in place. there are pictures at http://www.blenddoorfix.netfirms.com/ The root cause of blend door problems on the Explorer is the motor overdriving the plastic blend door and eventually breaking the door. Once this happens, you lose control over temperature control of the HVAC system. Replacing the plastic door with another plastic door is a temporary fix...the door will break again over time. The HeaterTreater solution replaces the plastic components with steel that will outlast the Explorer, and is installed with a greatly simplified process of accessing the door by making a Dremel cut in the bottom of the heater box(no disassembly of the dash panel whatsoever). The fix is very easy and 100% effective. Check for more information at www.heatertreater.net, or by clicking on the Google ad on this forum. cgallen
In Ford Taurus
The blend door actuator motor is on the front side of the box and can be seen by fulling opening the glove box and looking to the left over the transmission tunnel. Pictures a…nd diagnostic procedures are available at heatertreater.net.
Pictures are not able to be presented here in WikiAnswers. The best that can be done is to do a really good job describing a part or procedure, and provides links to… sources of pictures. In the case of the temperature blend door actuator motor - it is well described in all the questions that deal with replacing it (there are at least 4 heavily populated questions that do that). There may even be links provided in any one of those relevant questions. But the reader has to help out by using them... Other sources of pictures of this part would be Autozone.com AdvanceAuto.com, Oreillyauto.com - most any auto parts chain that has a website will have pictures. In the meantime, for comprehensive coverage of this very easy repair, refer to the numerous "Related Questions" below... No pictures / diagrams here on WA, but lots of helpful information - See "Related Questions" below for everything you need to know about changing a Windstar temperature blend door actuator motor.
In Ford Ranger
The blend door on my 1988 ford ranger is stuck in the cold position. any quick fixes or do i have to have it professionally fixed?
Answer . There is a mechanical lever on top of the heater that you can reach if you remove the plastic covers under the dash, just flip it to the other side.
Behind the glovebox compartment and radio area.