Someone has wired 240 volts into your 120 volt outlet. If you have 240 volts you need a specially configured outlet so that a standard 120 volt plug cannot be inserted. If you have this situation you would see 120 volts to ground and not neutral. Sometimes if you don't look carefully an outlet will look like the standard 120 volt variety but it isn't. One of the slots is horizontal and not vertical although there may be a small vertical split. 240 volts doesn't just magically appear. What you are describing is on purpose. If it really is 120 volt receptacle you need an electrician to put in the proper receptacle or re-wire the circuit.
Absoluteyl not.
No. The neon sign is fed by a step-up transformer. Primary side 120V, secondary side 7500V. If you applied 240 to the primary side you would get 15000 volts on the neon tube. A flash over and then nothing. If you can find a transformer from 120V to 240V or 240V to 120V then you are good to go. Connect 240V to 240V side and you will get 120V out the other, connect the 120V side to the neon sign and you should have light. Transformer should be at least 100va. This will give you an output of .83 amps at 120V
Neutral is at the jumper that changes it from 120v to 240v. Two stator windings are used in series to make 240v; at that junction is (when wired in Series)your neutral/common/ground. Ground this terminal and use it for your neutral/common. When wired in parallel you have 110v and the jumper is removed and there is no common/neutral and ground is from the frame of the generator.
If I understand your question, Can you run a 110 appliance off of a 220 volt outlet? You could by only using one leg of the 220. You may also consider changing the outlet. Put in a regular 110 outlet and capping off one leg of the 220 in the wall box. You still have a neutral and a ground to work with. I read this as the questioner doesn't want to modify the outlet. Check the voltage ratings on the device. Many electronic devices nowadays can havdle 120V or 240V as it is cheaper to manufacture one powersupply and sell it everywhere. If your device is rated for 240V, you can put a 240V plug on it. If it only says 120V, no dice. 240V will burn it up.
Yes, it can be and there is no problem at all Because most of the electrical appliances are made to work on 220v - 240v so it can also be plugged into a 240v outlet.
No.
Disregard the neutral
You will burn up your appliance!!!!!
Off hand no but your explanations are not clear as to who is doing what to whom,,
Absoluteyl not.
Don't!
No. The neon sign is fed by a step-up transformer. Primary side 120V, secondary side 7500V. If you applied 240 to the primary side you would get 15000 volts on the neon tube. A flash over and then nothing. If you can find a transformer from 120V to 240V or 240V to 120V then you are good to go. Connect 240V to 240V side and you will get 120V out the other, connect the 120V side to the neon sign and you should have light. Transformer should be at least 100va. This will give you an output of .83 amps at 120V
Neutral is at the jumper that changes it from 120v to 240v. Two stator windings are used in series to make 240v; at that junction is (when wired in Series)your neutral/common/ground. Ground this terminal and use it for your neutral/common. When wired in parallel you have 110v and the jumper is removed and there is no common/neutral and ground is from the frame of the generator.
NO, unless you get a converter that converts 220 to 110.
If I understand your question, Can you run a 110 appliance off of a 220 volt outlet? You could by only using one leg of the 220. You may also consider changing the outlet. Put in a regular 110 outlet and capping off one leg of the 220 in the wall box. You still have a neutral and a ground to work with. I read this as the questioner doesn't want to modify the outlet. Check the voltage ratings on the device. Many electronic devices nowadays can havdle 120V or 240V as it is cheaper to manufacture one powersupply and sell it everywhere. If your device is rated for 240V, you can put a 240V plug on it. If it only says 120V, no dice. 240V will burn it up.
When light is turned off, you measure 120V at point B and 240V at point C. Since your reference point is A, then A to C is 240V and A to B is 120V. This iteration confirms point B ("120 volts on the live") is probably your neutral, and you are wired incorrectly.
The whites are Neutrals or Grounds and the Red and Black are each 120v. One white and either the black or red for 120v and one white, both the red and black for 240v.