The waves begin to interact with the ocean floor.
The same mass of water runs into shallower and shallower water making the height of the wave increase.
because it is more shallow closer to the shore
There is a circular current inside the waves and as they come closer to the shore the previous wave is pulled up into it and this gives the initial wave more height because they are now fused.
it keeps on slowing down and hitsthe shore.
no
nearly parallel to the shoreline
The waves pounding against the shoreline. The waves colliding with the shore. The waves breaking upon the beach.
There is a circular current inside the waves and as they come closer to the shore the previous wave is pulled up into it and this gives the initial wave more height because they are now fused.
they get shorter
it keeps on slowing down and hitsthe shore.
No
no
the water becoming gradually more shallow..
nearly parallel to the shoreline
nearly parallel to the shoreline
surface waves (plato)
The waves pounding against the shoreline. The waves colliding with the shore. The waves breaking upon the beach.
The large water waves created near the land's shore are caused from fast moving, but small-amplitude waves created deeper in the ocean. Conceptually, the velocity of a water wave in deep water is dependent on its wavelength. As the wave nears the shore, its wavelength gets smaller and smaller, therefore its velocity gets slower and slower. Well, a wave's velocity multiplied by its energy density is a constant, so if the velocity of a water wave gets smaller, its energy density must get larger. This increase of energy density is seen as an increase in the height of the wave.
It is a process known as shoaling. When waves feel the bottom they slow down and decrease their wavelength but the period of the waves does not change. The height of the wave will steadily increase until the wave becomes unstable and breaks near the beach.