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sounds like you temperature sending unit is bad. very cheap part usually easy to fix however sometimes hard to find - buy an automotive book for you car or ask someone at parts store
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Your '95 Neon starts and runs fine while engine is cold after engine has warmed up to normal operating temp it stalls out and will not restart until engine has been allowed to cool down again.?
Answer Check the coil pak. Known to do this. Answer I own a '95 Neon that is doing JUST THIS SAME THING! Today I decided that I would change the… ignition coil, but oddly that DID NOT solve the problem. I'm exactly sure what the problem is now....any other ideas??? Answer It is a ECT sensor problem. Im positive Answer ya, check the sensors if changing the coil pack did not work. Answer I find that ignition modules are more apt to have the problem described, coils are usually consistent. I agree. If the coil checks out OK, then the ignition module, attached to the distributor, cuts out at a higher temperature. Answer i have a 1996 neon it is doing the same thing. I got the ignition coil replaced, didnt work. a complete tune up, didnt work. recently had the throttle body cleaned, didnt work. i think
Why would a car run great and then stall out once warmed up Also will not start back up until cools back down?
Answer ignition module bad shorting out when hot
Swamp buggy old military jeep four cylinder carbureted runs great cold when warm idle is rough will not start if shut off when warm until it is cool again Please help?
Answer . More than likely the fuel level is too high in carb's bowl. Next time out, try a warm start with the throttle wide open (once it starts ease off the pedal!). If it… gradually begins catching and black smoke billows out exhaust then the fuel level is too high. You didn't mention the year or motor size, but most of those older military models had a one barrel carb, Carter I think. Easy to remove the air horn (the top of the carb) and bend the tang on the float to raise or lower fuel level.\n. \n. \n Answer \n. \nchoke might be stuck closed too. with your air cleaner off, look down the carb throat andsee if the butterfly valve is open or closed. if it is closed try to genly open it, you may need to lean the linkages with some carb cleaner. is it a manual choke? if so then move the choke lever to see if the choke moves.
You drive 50 miles on the highway you come to a stop and the vehicle stalls and you have difficulty starting again until it cools off?
CAT CONV. My guess would be that the catalytic converter is plugged, or maybe some other exhaust blockage. The exhaust cannot go through the system and the… car stalls. As it "cools off" the pressure is actually equalizing, or coming back to atmospheric and the exhaust can flow freely again, for a while. I would check this scenario out, could be something to it.
What causes a 1997 Saturn SC2 to run fine for five to ten minutes and then stall and will not start again until it is completely cooled off?
I had this exact same problem with my 97' Saturn...It would run for a short time and then cut off and let it cool and it would start again.... Change the CPS sensor (Cranks…haft Position Sensor)...Don't get the cheapy from Autozone...That's the one that crapped out on me...get the dealer part...it's about 40 bones but it's worth it. I changed Coolant TEmp(ECTS) sensor first and it did nothing....(common problem on Saturns) Mine had no spark at the plug wires during the no-crank(when car was hot) condition...There's one bolt holding the CPS in the block and mine was a 10mm socket. It's on the far side of the engine block(closest to the firewall) almost at the bottom, right above the starter. Most likely an ignition coil, or the ignition pickup(the two most temperature sensitive components), then the ignition module 3rd..then the fuel pump... ASSUMING you've got a good alternator, good battery, good cables, no blown fuses, no bad fusable links, engine isn't overheating, engine has oil, etc...etc...etc...:) i have a 1997 Saturn sc2 and it had a similar problem, but my dad has a dodge stratus with the same engine, 4 in line, 1.9 liter DOHC 16 valve engine (sept dodge not Saturn) and he had 2 problems first was a fuse, check all your fuses AND more importantly check all your empty fuse slots, you would be suprized how often fuses somehow just "fall out" also, make shure none of your gaskets leak, if your headder gaskit is leaking bad enough, after starting your engine it would run fine till sufficiant coolant flowed into the cylinders, then it would rob the engine of enough power to just plain stall. and it wont start again till the fluid leaked back into the block (this can also happen is your engine block is cracked) remember to always change your oil!!! saturns eat oil like crazy and too manny people destroy their cars from lack of oil
Answer It most likely is the air temp sensor. they are 20 dollars. I would also suggest replacing your PCV valve and your thermostat.
What is wrong with a Briggs and Stratton engine that wont start after it has run for 15 min but runs fine until it is shut off and works after cooled?
Answer . One possibility is that the engine is running too rich. When you shut the engine off with no spark present the excess fuel present from the last couple cycles is fl…ooding the engine. This would dissipate after time. Try the idling screw first ajust until the engine is about to cut out and then turn it about 1 turn back and see how it runs. You could also adjust the Pilot screw a tiny bit toward the leaner side also. If this doesnt help then the float could be slightly sticking. Of course it could be some kind of screwy grounding problem. Hope this helps.
Why does a 1996 Plymouth breeze start and run until it gets warm then stalls and wont start again until it cools off?
A 1996 Plymouth Breeze that starts and runs until it warms up, but then stalls might have a problem with a temperature sensor. The sensor is telling the computer that the …temperature is too high for the engine to operate safely. Check the Electronic Temperature Sensor or the Manifold Pressure Sensor (MAP).
1996 Plymouth breeze cam sensor will it cause the car to start and run until it gets warm and then stall and not start again until it cools off?
yes, that could be a cause. Along with fuel pump, crank sensor,....
Why does 2000 ford contour not start when cold then after gets running wants to stall until engine is warmed up?
Check the OBD computer codes. You can purchase, rent or borrow a code scanner from most auto parts retailers. There can be several potential problems which could contribute to… the problem, one being the temperature sensor, but you cannot possibly know what is wrong unless/until you check the computer. If the computer gives you no useful results, check the fuel pressure. The computer diagnostics do not typically report low fuel pressure. Low fuel pressure could be caused by a failing fuel pump or a blocked fuel filter. If the fuel pressure is ok, you may have dirty injectors. Good luck. Sorry, but the answer given has no basis. The Car is Bi-fuel, CNG / Gasoline problem happens now on Both types of fuel. It is Not a Fuel System Problem. There have never been any computer codes shown...Never! Ford doesn't know how to fix this. Multiple complaints on the internet about these cars and this type of issue. Never has Anyone posted a FIX, jut their problems. Would someone who has had this problem PLEASE write something somewhere so we can find out How to Fix this! PLEASE! Items already replaced, TPS, Idle air valve, both O2 Sensors, Plugs, wires, coil pack, alternator. Sorry, but the answer given has no basis. The Car is Bi-fuel, CNG / Gasoline problem happens now on Both types of fuel. It is Not a Fuel System Problem. There have never been any computer codes shown...Never! Ford doesn't know how to fix this. Multiple complaints on the internet about these cars and this type of issue. Never has Anyone posted a FIX, jut their problems. Would someone who has had this problem PLEASE write something somewhere so we can find out How to Fix this! PLEASE! Items already replaced, TPS, Idle air valve, both O2 Sensors, Plugs, wires, coil pack, alternator.
Why wont your Electra Pocket rocket start when it is warm it is cold blooded when it is cold but when it finally starts and then you shut it off it wont start again atleast until it is cooled off?
This problems could be the injectors. However it may also be the coil if the coli is going bad it will does this constantly.
Check the points
Why would a 1996 Dodge Stratus with a 2.4L to stall out after it runs for 15 minutes and won't start until it cools down and then stall out again after 15 minutes?
cam position sensor has failed
17.5 hp Briggs dies after it runs about ten minutes it won't start until it cools off then it will restart and run only a short while until it gets hot again.?
Check the air filter on the side at the top and also check the fuel filter is not clogged.
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Your cars runs good when the engine is cooled down but once it gets warm it stalls out and will not start until about thirty minutes later when it cools off?
Unfortunately, this is not an unusual problem and there are many possible causes. Here are some: The ignition module is going bad, and fails as it gets warmA crank position s…ensor, which tells the module the position of the crankshaft so it can fire the spark plugs at the right time, is failingAnother sensor or circuit somewhere in the fuel or ignition circuits is failing when under-hood temperatures rise.Solder joints are failing in a circuit board or relay (they may look fine, but have small cracks that can open as they warm up). If you can narrow down the cause to a specific board or relay, re-soldering the biggest connections (which carry power and heat up/cool down the most) will often work. Get a service manual or try to find information online for your specific vehicle/engine about what modules to test and how to test them. Ideally, test everything when the engine is cold to get a baseline reading, then warm up the car until it stalls and test everything again. In my experience with import cars (Saab, Mazda), the crank position sensor is the most likely suspect (and usually somewhat cheaper than an ignition module).