Why does fuse number 63 keeping blowing on 2000 Ford Focus estate?
The primary purpose of a fuse is to help protect a circuit from damage in the event of a short or overload. The fuse is protecting the wiring as well as the device. The primary reason a fuse fails, for at least a second there was a short circuit to ground that caused the fuse to blow. Always replace failed fuses with the proper amp fuse, not doing so can result in electrical system damage. Possibly you have too small a fuse installed. Always replace fuses with the manufactures recommended amperage. If the new fuse blows immediately you have a shorted circuit somewhere in that wiring system. The most common cause of a short tends to be when a piece of wire has a small exposed area that is bare. This piece of bare wire can often rub against metal and create issues for the electrical system because of the sudden surge in electrical current. While there can be numerous causes for a blown fuse, the majority of the causes of a blown fuse tend to be quite simple to repair. Once the failed wire is located the solution usually takes only a few moments to correct. Usually something as simple as repairing a bare wire. The other reason a fuse may blow is because the circuit is overloaded. This would happen if you have added accessories to the circuit. Of course a short in the device the fuse protects will cause a blown fuse.
2 people found this useful
What do you do if the blower motor on a 2000 Ford Focus stopped working as it blew the 30 amp fuse but as soon as you replace the fuse it blows again?
heater blower problems v pollen filter . \nCheck that the pollen filter has been replaced.\nCheck that the heater fan hasn't seized due to water logging after pollen filter… becomes blocked.\nCheck resistor is working (next to heater fan on firewall)\nCheck relay is working correctly.
Central locking on a 2000 ford focus estate dosent work you only have the key you cant find the fuse number F63 A program you got off the Internet says it is behind the fuse relay box please help?
I have recently had the same problem. The 20 Amp fuse number 63 IS located behind the central fusebox. You have to drop the fuse box cover on the lower left side of the steeri…ng wheel. Though not necessary, I highly recommend taking off the entire cover which includes the fuse box cover; this is done by removing 4 screws (2 at the top and 2 at the bottom + a plug) removing the entire cover will make the rest of the task loads easier. After you remove either of the 2 covers, you will see the fuse box with all the little color fuses in 1 panel and a few big black boxes on the upper panel. On the lower panel, you need to remove the two screws holding the fuse box to the base plate. Then you need to squeeze the two plastic tabs inwards and push the fusebox up & backwards. Then you need to carefully turn the fusebox around so you can see the back. Fuse 63(yellow) is located underneath a big bunch of multicoloured wires. I had to snip the cable tie around them to be able to move them enough to see the fuse, but you may not need to. I then removed the fuse using the tool in the fusebox under the bonnet (or hood), and replaced it with a new one. Note: the reason it has blown in the first place needs to be looked into, or it may simply blow again. Mine appears to be a faulty driver's side door lock. I put a new fuse and it blew again. Now I can't open the door, either from the inside or the outside with the key! I think I'm going to have to replace the lock - meanwhile I'm climbing in through the passenger's door! NEW POST (8-20-05) I replaced my fuse thanks to these instructions which I have edited for easier use and my fuse has not blown again; so wish me luck (John) NEW POST (Jan2012) Excellent help. My door now opens. Fuse blew when someone locked just as someone else opened passenger door. (BobDavis)
Answer . \nFuse 63- central lock module - is located on the back of the passenger compartment fuse panel. You need to remove the panel to access the module and fuse.
It's "hidden" - mounted on the REVERSE side of the dashboard fuse panel which is located under the dash to the left of the steering column. You must unfasten the fuse panel an…d drop it so that you can get to the fuse on the back.
if your car is like mine there are two panels. One under the drivers side just to the left of the steering wheel. You have to feel for an indentation in the dashbord. Also the…r eis another panel in the engine conpartmnet. Ope the hood. there is a big box at the top near the right side of the engine. You should have a book that shows you the list of the fuses. If it looks like some are missing this is normal. use the guide in the book to assisit you. If you don't have a book do a search for ford focus fuse diagram. that's what i did. hope this helps.
You likely have a short or bare wire somewhere. Whatever the fuse is for trace the wires using a wiring diagram or have it checked at a shop. Sometimes you may have extra juic…e from somewhere else coming across the same line. Don't just change the fuse until the original problem is solved. What the fuse is for is also important in diagnosing....ie: If you have problems with a hatchback or wagon and the fuse is something to do with the back lift/door maybe you have a short in a wire in the harness going to the door.
It is on the fuse panel located under the dashboard on the drivers side - FUSE 63 is located on the BACK of the fuse panel (as you look at it). The panel must be un-fastened -… then you can turn it around to gain access to it. A VERY poor design! Good luck
Fuse # 47. It's fuse #46 not #47
I suggest that you have a short circuit in the switch or in something that that switch controls. It should have a 10 Amp fuse. Before checking anything else - make sure that t…he right sized fuses are installed in 32 and 7.5 amps in 47 & 48. Buy a few spare 10 amp fuses, so you can blow some and have more to try again.. Although Fuse #32 is the fuse that controls the light switch,. it also feeds fuse 47 (7.5A) which supplies the left rear lamp assembly, & fuse 48 (7.5A) which supplies the right rear lamp assembly. Normally a short in #47 or #48 would cause the 7.5A to blow and protect the 10A fuse #32. The most likely causes of fuse #32 failure, in order of most likely to least are: . A short in the wiring harnes inside the hinge of the hatch. (when your lights are on the fuse blows when the hatch is opened/closed) . Short in licence plate light caused by water, corrosion or metal tab shorting to ground Make sure all 3 fuses are good , remove 47 & 48. Turn the lights switch on and while watching or having someone else watching the dashlights, open & close the hatch a few times and wiggle the wire harness inside the hinge when it is open.. if the fuse blows peel back the top of the wiring harness cover and you will likely see the 3 or 4 wires with the isulation broken, carefully apply tape around each one, then tape them together and put the cover back in place. problem solved.. Fuse 32 also feeds the license plate lamps. Sometimes those get wet & corroded inside; or they can short to the body, so look for burned edges on the metal pieces of the bulb holder..
Are both your brake lights blowing out? If it affects only one light: it could be a bad light socket, or a pinched or frayed wire that is shorting out.
Dead short in circuit? Remove stop light bulbs apply brakes and check to see if fuse continues to blow check the sockets for bare wires or defective sockets Check the stop… light switch at upper end of brake pedal for bare or shorted wires check wiring to lights (under vehicle and in trunk) for signs of chafed or shorted wiring disconnect the large harness on the left side of the truck, connect an ohms meter between the black (ground) wire and then probe the rest of the connections until one reads almost zero that's the one. I found the harness going into the truck lid was messed up. All the insulation on all the wires was broken so it was shorting out.
Sounds like either the fan speed switch or the fan motor itself might be bad.
In Ford Focus
I had the same problem with my wife's 2000 Focus. The problem was a wiring harness laying against the steel heat tube for the EGR. Look between the battery box and the end of …the engine. The harness is about the diameter of a man's finger and contained 6 or 8 wires. Two of the wires had completely burned through and were fused together causing a direct short. Once I repaired the wires there were no more problems. This was a defect in workmanship when the car was assembled at the factory, so there could be more like it. I know this because I know the history of this car since it was new. Good luck.
Fuses That "Blow" Repeatedly Fuses and Circuit Breakers are safety devices designed and installed in electrical circuits TO PROTECT the conductors [wires] from short circ…uits and overload conditions which can cause extreme overheating that can result in damage to the insulation and the conductors, and worse, the possibility of a FIRE which could destroy the vehicle, house, or other structure. When a fuse and replacement fuses blow, especially if it happens repeatedly, is an indication of an UNSAFE CONDITION in that circuit, usually a short. The proper "fix" is for a qualified technician, who knows what he/she is doing, to troubleshoot the circuit, find and identify the defect, and make proper repair [s], BEFORE replacing the fuse again [with the properly sized fuse or circuit breaker]. Some ignorant few will suggest installing a larger fuse or breaker to solve the problem, BUT that will only amplify the problem, not solve it. Do not follow "bad" advice and install a larger fuse in a misguided attempt to correct the problem. To install a larger fuse would almost guarantee damage to the wiring and an electrical system fire.
You have a wire with worn insulation or a bad light switch. Go to where the wire is connected to the tail lights. Check the connection between the wire and the tail lights. Ch…eck the wire. Look for a place where the insulation is missing or where bare wire touches metal other than the connection to the tail light. If you find it, take some electrical tape and wrap it around the wire at that point. Find the switch where the brake light is activated when you hit the brake. Check for a wire with a piece of missing insulation where bare wire is touching metal. Keep checking. Trace the wire as far as you can. You are looking for loose insulation. If you can get to the brake light control manually, jiggle it by hand. See if that blows a fuse. If it does, you have a bad switch. Next, you start disconnecting if possible. See if you can disconnect the wire from the break switch to the break lights. Then hit the brakes 100 times. If you blow the fuse, it is in the switch. See if you can disconnect the wire from the back lights. If you can, hit the brakes 100 times. See if you can blow the fuse. If you can, it is in the wiring. Connect it back to the left tail light. Then the right tail light.
Answer 1 - Circuits That "KEEP" Blowing Fuses The following answer regarding repeadedly blowing fuses is a cut and paste of my answer to previous similar questions. The answ…er is written to apply to any fuse blowing issue, automotive not. Fuses That "Blow" Repeatedly Without being able to "hands on" troubleshoot the circuit served by the repeatedly blowing fuse, none of us can identify the specific defect which is causing your problem . Therefore, the following generic answer can be applied to any electrical circuit , whether in a vehicle, or in a building, whether direct current [DC], or alternating current [AC]. Fuses [and Circuit Breakers] are safety devices designed and installed in electrical circuits TO PROTECT the conductors [wires] and other components from short circuit conditions and/or overload conditions which cause an extremely large flow of electrical current [measured in Amperes], which causes overheating of the conductors that results in damage to the insulation and the conductors. And in a worst case scenario, the probability of a FIRE which could destroy the vehicle, house, or other structure in which the circuit is located. When a fuse or Circuit Breaker [and replacement fuses, or repeatedly "tripping" Circuit Breakers] "blow," especially if it happens repeatedly, is an indication of an UNSAFE CONDITION in that circuit, usually a short . The fuse or circuit breaker is doing what it was designed, intended, and installed to do; that is to protect the conductors and components of the circuit which it serves. The proper "fix" for this issue is for a qualified technician, who knows what he or she is doing, to troubleshoot the involved circuit, find and identify the defect, and make proper repair [s], BEFORE replacing the fuse again [with the properly sized fuse or before resetting a circuit breaker]. Some ignorant few people will suggest installing a larger fuse or breaker to solve the problem, BUT that will only increase the hazard, not correct it. Do not follow "bad" advice by installing a larger fuse in a misguided attempt to correct the problem. To install an oversized fuse would almost guarantee damage to the wiring and the probability of an electrical system fire.
In Ford Focus
Obviously something's wrong in the circuit.