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"TC" symbol means "traction control", in other words it's trying to keep you from slipping when you try to go. If that light is constantly on, and the check engine light is on, it's PROBABLY telling you that there is something wrong with the traction control system, perhaps a faulty or disconnected wheel sensor.
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Answer Air gets in the fule pump and might account for the Check engine light. When you pump gas be sure to twist the cap at least three times to make sure it i…s tight. To make it go away, you can try adding more gas and then making the cap tight.
My 2000 Isuzu Trooper does the same - the reduced power light comes on, often after a hard break, and then the vehicle won't go over 10 mph. The gas pedal sometimes stops work…ing altogether; the check engine light has been on for a year. The scanner checks produce up to 6 error codes intermittently. Resolving those issues doesn't solve the reduced power problem. I have replaced the throttle position sensor twice, and more other parts than I can name, including the central computer. Mechanics at two different repair shops each spent a week each going through every single wire to search for a short (I live in Mexico, where labor costs are cheap enough to make this possible, and mechanics don't charge if they fail to fix the prolem). After the second mechanic located and repaired a broken wire, my vehicle worked briefly. Today the problem returned. Many people are reporting the same problem and some solutions in the discussion thread at http://www.automotiveforums.com/t343629.html.
iT COULD HAVE BEEN CAUSED BY "TOPPING OFF" THE GAS TANK. tHE EXTRA FUEL SPILLS OVER IN TO THE CHARCOAL CANISTER WHICH IS A PART OF THE EMMISIONS SYSTEM AND TRIPS THE CHE…CK ENGINE LIGHT TO COME ON.
FLASHING CEL - Park the car and TOW it to the repair place STEADY ON CEL - Drive it to the shop at your own timing. Most likely... The Millenias and their Commonwealth c…ousins the "Xedos" all suffered a common defect resulting in MOST CEL issues. This engine configuration typically results in the need for replacement of 1 to 2 O2 sensors and / or the DREADED KNOCK Sensor embedded deep in the Manifold assembly. Mine ran 3 years with this CEL on due to the cost of labour one item to replace. The sensor was only 165 bucks while the labour to install was nearly 800. I will admit once it was replaced I was not only legal again for the Emmissions test, but the thing ran smoother than it ever did ina ll seasons PLUS I got nearly 2 points to my highway Mileage. Now the codes are confusing on this because two of the O2 sensors share the same circuit and the code wont necessarily identify WHICH o2 is actually bad, that unfortunately is hit or miss. The KNOCK sensor code is separate and distinct however but all will result in a costly set of repairs. Good Luck WRONG. WRONG. 2 sensors share the same circuit? where do you get this from? i am looking at the wiring diagram, and there is no such thing. each sensor is on it's own circuit. labor is 800? man, that shop must love you. a generic sensor will cost about 30 bucks. with the proper tools, a post cat sensor will take about 30 minutes to change. on a 2.3, the left bank pre cat sensor is easy, but you have to remove a lot of stuff to get at it, especially the connector. right bank is about 30 min, too. for 165 each, and 800 for labor, i would change all 4 sensors, all the brakes, oil and filter, trans fluid, brake fluid, coolant, rotate all the tires, and buy a steak dinner for the customer, all in about 6 hours, with a nap in between
When my Reduced Engine Power Light came on in my 2004 Envoy it ended up being the entire pedal assembly and the electronics that control it. If I remember correctly it e…nded up setting me back around $500.00. Hope this helps!!
2003 Envoy. Why is the reduced engine power and check engine light on while operating in limp home mode?
have vehicle scanned to determine the problem
Why does my 2001 Lincoln ls keeps saying engine reduce power on the dash board..check engine temperature?
Engine is getting fried. Water pump failures are constantly not diagnosed.
Why does my 2001 Lincoln ls keeps saying engine reduce power on the dash board..check engine temperature come on?
The engine temperature sensor has failed. It is under the intake manifold. 20 dollar part, approx. 100 dollar labor. It sure will make it run better!
Every 5,000 miles, a "Maintenance Required" light will blink for the first couple seconds after you start your car. It will continue to do so until it is reset. If it is… not reset, than it will eventually turn on your "Check Engine" light. The purpose of the maintenance required light is to remind TC owners to change their oil. The factory recommended interval is 5,000 miles, but you can reduce the interval the light will come on to a mileage interval of your choice. 1. Before starting, make sure that the odometer is not on one of the trip mileage odometers but is displaying the standard odometer. 2. With the car off, press and hold down the odometer reset button. While still holding it, start the car. 3. The light should continue to blink for a couple seconds and than disappear. That will reset the light for another 5,000 miles. 4. The following are steps to change the interval in which the maintenance required light comes on. Right after you turn on the ignition while holding the reset button, you'll notice that the odometer display will show 5 bars. Each bar corresponds to a 1,000 miles. As each bar disappears, the interval will increase (0 bars = 5k, 1 bar = 4k). Release the reset button at the interval you desire.
The reduced engine power light means that there is a problem with the battery or power system. It almost always means a battery connection issue.
It is reducing engine power because a sensor dictated a serious problem and to keep the engine from damaging itself it'll go to engine power reduced stage and it vibrate…s because its at a rough idle
If the check engine light code is "Random Multiple Misfirings", you need a tune up. Have the spark plugs and wires changed. The loss of power is due to misfirings.
have battery tested bet it is no good
In Asian Cars
Check Engine and Reduced Power P0401, P1125, P1295, P1515 I had this problem. It drove me crazy for a while. My father previously owned the car and a professional mechanic… serviced the car several times. He replaced the accelerator position sensor and whatever else he did I don't know. I don't blame the guy for not being able to fix it, as they only have so much time to figure car troubles out because they have other people to service. However, I am just someone who began to read a significant amount of information on the automobile: the engine, the brakes, the suspension, the sensors, ...the overall functioning. I did two gasket overhauls, with changing various parts to update the functioning (timing belt, plugs, several sensors, cooling system parts, charging system, pulleys, dented oil pan, oil pump, seals, valves on one of the cars, ...whatever I thought "hey, after 200,000 miles, it probably makes sense", I think it does; mind you, I did do specification checks on what needed checking with the cylinder heads). I still drive one of them (3000GT, may as well be a car you like), and a 2000 Eclipse (bought it brand new, and constantly kept up on the oil), which is now deceased (I won't go into the details), but I still pulled the engine (which still ran awesome, when I checked to see if it still ran and to replace this car....ta da >>> my old man gave me the 2000 Trooper. (I apologize for the long story, just want you to get an idea of what where I'm coming from) With 168,000 miles, and no timing belt change, sparks pugs, literally nothing... I went ahead and did all that plus some other stuff merely because I was deep enough into the area, or had access, rather. When I pulled off the "common chamber" which is the intake manifold I began to clean it and was surprised by a large blot of built up crap in the port for the "MAP SENSOR!!!". It ruined the sensor itself which I did not rule out right away because I just wanted to see what would happen. I left the old one in but purchased another one just in case. Low and behold a few days went by, there were no mil or reduced power for those few days but bam they did come back on. I REPLACED THE OLD MAP WITH THE NEW AND NOW IT RUNS BEAUTIFULLY, NO PROBLEMOS. It's been a couple of months now, I can take it anywhere and not worry about the limp home mode preventing me from controlling the throttle and making me feel like the only idiot being able to reach that 10 MPH limit on the way back home. I did purchase an ISUZU electronic copy of the manual (from HELM INC.) and it mentions so faintly about the correlation between the MAP reading and the throttle position. They mostly point to the TPS or Accelerator sensor predicament, so who'd of thought (I can only imagine that you can only publish a limited number of scenarios, not every possible one). The MAP reading also affects the EGR reading which was the initial check engine light cause. This was definitely what fixed mine. ON A FINAL THOUGHT: The automotive engine and the whole car itself is really really really a crazy marvel of invention. And though this world doesn't push people to realize this in its most direct way. after all, who has time right? people should make time to try and follow how it works and what keeps it working. It would save a lot of misery and aggravation.
That means the engine is running HOT for some reason. Check the thermostat, Radiator and coolant level. Repair as needed.
By having the problem repaired that caused the light to come on and speed to be reduced.
Have vehicle scanned at either auto parts store or reliable repair shop