Adam Ondra

Adam Ondra

Personal information
Nationality	Czech Republic
Born	February 5, 1993(1993-02-05) Brno
Occupation	Rock Climber
Height	1.80 m (5 ft 11 in)
Weight	58 kg (130 lb; 9.1 st)
Sport
Sport	Lead climbing, Bouldering
Achievements and titles
World finals	IFSC Lead Climbing World Cup: 1 IFSC Bouldering World Cup: 1 Rock Master: 1
Medal record IFSC World Championship Bronze Arco 2011 Lead climbing Silver Arco 2011 Bouldering Silver Qinghai 2009 Lead climbing IFSC European Championship Silver Imst/Innsbruck 2010 Lead climbing Silver Imst/Innsbruck 2010 Bouldering

Adam Ondra (born February 5, 1993 in Brno) is a Czech rock climber. He also participates in lead climbing and bouldering competitions.

Biography

Adam at the IFSC Lead Worldcup Imst 2009

Adam started climbing at the age of six, his parents are climbers and they share their passion with him. In 1999 (at age six) at Rovinj in Croatia Adam climbed 6a/5.9 routes with bolts every half meter. In 2001 (at age eight) he onsighted 7b+/5.12c routes and in 2002 (at age nine) he onsighted 7c+/5.13 and redpointed 8a/5.13b. He onsighted 8a/5.13b routes in 2003 (at age ten). In 2004 (at age eleven) Adam climbed several 8a+/5.13c onsight^[1] and 8c/5.14b redpoints. In 2005 (at age twelve) he onsighted 8b/5.13d routes. Then he became famous on climbing magazines and in 2006 he managed to climb his first 9a/5.14d Martin Krpan at Misja Pec.

In 2007 and 2008 he won the IFSC Youth World Championship category Youth B.

In 2009, at age sixteen, he could compete in the IFSC Lead Climbing World Cup: in his debut year he won the World Cup beating Spanish Patxi Usobiaga and Japanese Sachi Amma.^[2]

In 2010 he won also the IFSC Bouldering World Cup beating Austrian Kilian Fischhuber and Japanese Tsukuru Hori, and becoming the first athlete in history to win both the disciplines (lead and bouldering).^[3]

In March 2011 during a trip in Spain Adam has become the second person ever to have onsighted 8c+/5.14c after Patxi Usobiaga. In a couple of days he onsighted five 8c+/5.14c routes (two of which in the same day).^[4]

His resume is impressive: 959 routes between 8a/5.13b and 9b/5.15b (443 onsights).^[5]

Medals

Adam at the IFSC Boulder Worldcup Vienna 2010

IFSC Lead Climbing World Cup

IFSC Bouldering World Cup

IFSC Lead Climbing World Championship

IFSC Bouldering World Championship

IFSC Lead Climbing European Championship

IFSC Bouldering European Championship

Rock Master

Single-pitch routes

• 5 9b/5.15b routes
• 11 9a+/5.15a routes
• 41 9a/5.14d routes
• 89 8c+/5.14c routes (8 onsight)
• 107 8c/5.14b routes (23 onsight)
• 289 8b/5.13d and 8b+/5.14a routes (137 onsight)

Redpoint

• 9b/5.15b :
  • La planta de Shiva - Villanueva del Rosario (ESP) - 22/04/11 - First ascent^[6]
  • Chilam Balam - Villanueva del Rosario (ESP) - 13/04/11 - Second ascent (however Bernabe Fernandez's first ascent is not confirmed)^[7]
  • Chaxi Raxi - Oliana (ESP) - 27/03/11 - First ascent of Chaxi direct start^[8]
  • La Capella - Siurana (ESP) - 16/02/11 - First ascent^[9]
  • Golpe de Estado - Siurana (ESP) - 13/03/10 - Second ascent of Chris Sharma's route (2008)^[10]

• 9a+/5.15a :
  • Perlorodka - Holstejn, Mor.kras (CZE) - 06/09/11 - First ascent
  • Overshadow - Malham Cove (UK) - 16/05/11 - Second ascent of Steve McClure's route^[11]
  • Chaxi - Oliana (ESP) - 21/03/11 - First ascent of Chris Sharma's project
  • Obrint el sistema - Santa Ana (ESP) - 14/03/11 - First ascent of Daniel Andrada's project^[12]
  • L'étrange ivresse des lenteurs - Céüse (FRA) - 04/09/10 - First ascent^[13]
  • Goldrake - Cornalba (ITA) - 06/04/10 - First ascent^[14]
  • Marina Superstar - Domusnovas (ITA) - 20/10/09 - First ascent^[15]
  • Corona - Frankenjura (GER) - 07/06/09 - Second ascent of Markus Bock's route (2006)^[16]
  • Papichulo - Oliana (ESP) - 24/02/09 - Second ascent of Chris Sharma's route (2008)^[17]
  • Open Air - Schleierwasserfall (AUT) - 17/11/08 - Second ascent of Alexander Huber's route (1996)^[18]
  • La Rambla - Siurana (ESP) - 10/02/08 - Sixth ascent^[19]

Onsight

• 8c+/5.14c :
  • Bella Regis - Bus De Vela (ITA) - 07/04/12^[20]
  • L'Avaro - Tetto di Sarre (ITA) - 13/07/11^[21]
  • La Rubia - Villanueva del Rosario (ESP) - 13/04/11
  • Blanquita - Oliana (ESP) - 27/03/11^[22]
  • Mind Control - Oliana(ESP) - 20/03/11^[23]
  • Powerade - Vadiello (ESP) - 09/03/11^[24]
  • Bizi Euskaraz - Etxauri (ESP) - 07/03/11^[25]
  • Kidetasunaren balio erantsia - Etxauri (ESP) - 06/03/11 - Second 8c+ onsight in history after route by Patxi Usobiaga in 2007^[26]

• 8c/5.14b :
  • Scoglio de Capri - Bus De Vela (ITA) - 07/04/12
  • Iluzija - Kotecnik (SLO) - 05/04/12
  • 5 Uve - Arco (ITA) - 27/06/11
  • Bat Route - Malham Cove (UK) - 16/05/11
  • Carbunco - Archidona (ESP) - 23/04/11
  • Kalliste - Archidona (ESP) - 23/04/11
  • Fuck the police - Etxauri (ESP) - 06/03/11
  • Dures Limites - Céüse (FRA) - 10/08/10 ^[27]
  • Smoke - Pierrot beach (FRA) - 05/08/10
  • Home Sweet Home - Pierrot beach (FRA) - 05/08/10
  • Guère d'usure - Claret (FRA) - 29/02/10 ^[28]
  • Super Samson - Claret (FRA) - 29/01/10 ^[29]
  • Gora Guta Gutarak - Kalymnos (GRE) - 22/05/09 ^[30]
  • Una Vida Nomada - Covolo (ITA) - 21/04/09 ^[31]
  • Nagay - Covolo (ITA) - 21/04/09 ^[32]
  • L'espiadimondis - Margalef (ESP) - 02/03/09
  • Los Humildes Pa Casa - Oliana (ESP) - 24/02/09
  • Métaphysique Des Tubes - Seynes (FRA) - 21/02/09
  • Absinth - Sparchen (AUT) - 16/08/08
  • Rollito Sharma Extension - Santa Linya (ESP) - 07/02/08
  • Digital System - Santa Linya (ESP) - 05/02/08

Bouldering

Adam has climbed 202 boulders between 8A/V11 and 8C+/V16:

• 2 8C+/V16 boulders
• 6 8C/V15 boulders
• 18 8B+/V14 boulders
• 35 8B/V13 boulders
• 56 8A+/V12 boulders
• 85 8A/V11 boulders

Adam won the bouldering gathering Melloblocco in 2008,^[33] 2009^[34] 2010^[35] and 2011.^[36]

• 8C+/V16:
  • Gioia - Varazze (ITA) - 06/12/11 - Second ascent of Christian Core's boulder (2008)^[37]
  • Terranova - Holstejn, Mor.kras (CZE) - 10/11/11 - First ascent, traverse^[38]
• 8C/V15 :
  • Cháron - Petrohrad / Mlýnský vrch (CZE) - 15/10/11 - First ascent^[39]
  • Practice of the Wild - Magic Wood (SUI) - 01/10/11 - Chris Sharma's boulder (2004)
  • Pata ledovce - Holstejn, Mor.kras (CZE) - 06/09/11 - First ascent^[40]
  • Monkey Wedding - Rocklands (ZA) - 14/08/11 - Third ascent of Fred Nicole's boulder (2002)
  • From The Dirt Grows the Flowers - Chironico (SUI) - 30/11/10 - Dave Graham's boulder (2005)^[41]
  • Big Paw - Chironico (SUI) - 29/11/10 - Third ascent of Dave Graham's boulder (2008)^[42]

Multi-pitch routes

Karambony East Face - Tough Enough route runs in the middle

• Mora Mora - Tsaranoro Atsimo (Madagascar) - 10/10/10 - First free ascent
• Bravo Les Filles - Tsaranoro Kelly (Madagascar) - 07/10/10
• Tough Enough Original - Karambony (Madagascar) - 04/10/2010 - First free ascent^[43]
• Tough Enough - Karambony (Madagascar) - 30/09/2010 - First free ascent^[44]
• Hotel Supramonte - Gole di Gorroppu (ITA) - 18/10/08 - First onsight ascent^[45]
• Ali Baba - Paroi Derobée di Aiglun (FRA) - 2008 - Second ascent^[46]
• WoGü - Rätikon (SUI) - 26/07/08 - First free ascent of Beat Kammerlander's route (1997)^[47]
• Zub za zub - Rätikon (SUI) - 29/07/07 - First free ascent^[48]
• Silbergeier - Rätikon (SUI) - 27/07/07^[49]

References

External links

Wikimedia Commons has media related to: Adam Ondra

• IFSC Profile
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• Articles on czechclimbing.com