Haute Provence: Principal Destinations: Les Gorges du Verdon: Adventures on Wheels:

It is possible to make an automobile circuit of the Gorges. The route is dramatic, hugging the crest, with many belvederes – scenic viewpoints – along the way. Allow at least two days for the journey, stopping overnight in Moustiers Saint Marie or Castellane.

Day 1: From Castellane to Moustiers Saint Marie along the Corniche Sublime (81 km/48 miles, half-day drive).

• Leave Castellane driving southwest on the D952, following the contours of the river. This is a beautiful drive, between cliffs.
• After Porte de Saint Jean, the road begins a long turn and, to the north, you will see the Cadière de Brandis rising up like something out of a Spaghetti Western.
• At the Pont de Soleils, turn left onto the D955. The road leaves the Verdon River. Stay with the D955 through the Jabron Valley.
• At Comps sur Artuby, do some sightseeing before leaving the village, going west on the D71. There are several marked belvederes on this road. Try to stop at all of them – but don’t miss the one called the Balcons de la Mescla. This overlooks the most dramatic part of the gorge from a height of 500 m/1,640 feet. Here the river makes a virtual hairpin turn as it is joined by the waters of the Artuby – Mescla means mingling of the waters.

Tip: After this point, the route can be blocked by snow in winter, so don’t try this drive between December and March.

• Shortly after the Balcons de la Mescla, you will cross the Pont de l’Artuby, a stunning mountain bridge. The D71 winds through several switchbacks, going through a pair of tunnels before emerging atop the Falaise des Cavaliers.
• You are now on the Corniche Sublime, a road that will take your breath away as it leads through narrow turns and switchbacks on the side of a mountain opposite the vertical cliffs of the Verdon.
• After the Col d’Illoire, go through the tunnel and begin to descend toward Aiguines – another village to stop for a breather and a look around. Leave Aiguines on the D19, which winds down toward Lac de Sainte Croix.
• At the lakeside, turn right onto the D957, which skirts the lake, before crossing the Verdon.
• After another 9½ km/six miles, the road rejoins the D952 to Moustiers Saint Marie.

Day 2: Moustiers Saint Marie to Castellane along the Route des Crêtes (73 km, a half-day drive). Directions may be easier but this is an equally white-knuckle drive.

• Leave Moustiers Saint Marie on the D952 going east toward La Palud sur Verdon. As before, stop at every belvedere you see. Between Belvedere Galetas and Belvedere de Mayreste, the road is cut into the face of the cliffs, which show the colors of many different ochres.
• Continue to La Palud. As soon as you enter the town, turn right onto the D23, the Route des Crêtes. The last time I drove this road, there was no sign to indicate the D23 and I got lost. That was a long time ago and the road is probably marked now, but be alert, just in case.
• The drive continues along the rim of the gorge, eventually turning away from it and back toward La Palud after the Belvedere de Trescaire. The route crosses through woods before rejoining the D952.
• Turn right onto the D952 and continue on toward Castellane.
• After Point Sublime, the road dives into the gorge for several miles.
• At the Pont de Soleils, stay to the left and return to Castellane.

Author’s Tip: Tunnels along this route are narrow and dark. They go around corners in the dark. The protocol is to turn on headlights as you enter. Drive slowly, flashing lights and occasionally sounding your horn. If there’s the slightest chance that you might be affected by vertigo, let someone else drive. These roads are perched on the flanks and edges of very high and sometimes nearly vertical mountains. If you meet an oncoming car in a tunnel, one of you may have to reverse out.

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